Thank you so much for these videos they are a lifesaver. On top of that, I like that you show lots of different means to the same end. It's really useful in sparking creativity and ingenuity; something that is really hard on the side of a wall.
The dual petzl connect adjust is a dream to use. Pretty bulky though especially if you’re carrying gear. I’ve switched down to the regular connect adjust for my pas, and use a double length runner tied in an eight through my tie in points for rap extension. Perfect combo!
Anthony Haamen just got the single lanyard too and was kind of wondering what to do to extend the rappel. What do you think of tying a bight of rope in the middle of the lanyard and connecting the belay device there? I don’t see any reason why not.
@@OneTradeMan Should be doable. I have seen mentioned in a couple of forums the usage of a clove hitch in the middle to connect to the belay device. Same principle, less rope wastage.
Giacomo Pascazio I've just now been introduced to using a bowline on a bight to attach the sling to the harness but couldn't find any pull/drop tests... Any idea which knot (bowline or girth hitch) reduce the strength of the sling less?
Ivan Lawrence I'm honestly not sure, i don't have any data. But i'll ask to some guide instructor i know and i'm sure they'll have something concrete. I'll letyou know
Better put backup before ATC because 1) you are safer for a period of time and 2) the mass of rope is on the knot and does not make it hard to put rope in an ATC
Hi thank you for this video! Does it matter if you used a dyneema sling to make the extender the lady used with the bight? I think this is the one I’d use! I’m new to climbing 👍🏽
I was going to use a purcel prusik for my pas but is that bad? The last comment suggest I shouldn't. I was planning on getting a petzyl connect in the future but maybe I should get it sooner.
I girth to my tie in, clip back to the belay loop, then clove hitch a carabinier into the center as the rappel attachment. But now I'm thinking of replacing the girth hitch with a bowline on a bight.
I have the single version of the petzl connect lanyard. Do you think it’s fine to tie an overhand on a bight in the middle and use that as the extension point?
In same rap setting with back up using small dyneema. At the knot in middle for the rap device - as knot reduce strength (more on dyneema) - what do Dave and Olivia thinks of using a clove hitch ONLY if end from anchor is reclip to harness ... slippage not tested in this use as far as I know but should reduce strength less than a knot (and is convenient to untie)?
"It's gonna be hard to reach the limits of this material in a practical climbing application" Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that exactly what the DMM video was discussing? Even falling just the length of the sling (2 foot) was enough to generate enough forces to break the material with a dyneema sling. I get that in practice there's the extra dynamic elements like the body being soft, the other elements (cordelette for example) absorbing some of the forces etc, so maybe he's right that the forces will be reduced in a practical scenario, but I think that it should be stressed that if you shock load the anchors, you might actually fairly easily generate enough forces to break the sling, especially if you're using a sling that's not brand new as they used in the DMM video. The rest of the video is awesome and I use a sling to tether myself as well, I just make sure that I *never* let any slack develop in the sling. Usually I'll use the rope and I was glad to see that being the recommendation in this video.
In the DMM video, the forces at play were upwards of 19-27kN when it was a fall factor of 2. I believe that all the falls where the sling broke were fall factors of two. I happen to have a new DMM carabiner laying around that is rated for 24kN in ideal situations. You might have a new sling, but old carabiner and the carabiner could break, or the carabiner could be rotated . To get a fall factor of 2, you'd have the climb above the connected point and jump off. Which isn't smart regardless of dyneema or nylon since they are static. I believe around 10 kN you'd break your pelvis and potentially more in that fall. It could also cause the sling (dyneema or nylon), carabiner, or belay loop to fail as well. To sum up, If you aren't connected to a dynamic rope, don't climb above the anchor, and as a leader place a piece of gear above the belay before you start climbing the pitch.
I think I'd rather have one sling for a PAS and another for the rappel extension. I was under the impression that loading or even shock loading the "shelf", as he mentioned, between his girth hitch and overhand knot was bad, because loading that overhand knot like that greatly reduces its strength. If you load it like that, you can see the force literally trying to peel the knot open or tear it apart as oppose to clinching the knot tighter.
To expand on why having the backup auto-block knot on the leg loop is a bad idea, you have two big issues with it. First, and probably more obvious, your leg loop is not meant to be shock loaded at a single point. When your harness arrests a fall, your weight is distributed against all points of contact with the main stopping force being at your hardpoints or belay loop. These points are rated for fall arrests. By introducing a shock load to a single part of the leg loop webbing when the autoblock catches, you risk damaging the harness. Less obvious is the risk of the autoblock being bypassed entirely. If you raise your leg high enough, the top of the autoblock knot can touch the rappel device. Doing this creates the same downward force that you would be applying to bypass it in a lower with your hands, but unintentionally. If you are in a situation where you need that third hand blocking but your leg is raised, it’s useless. Outside of keeping hair and clothing out of the rappel device, extending it solves both of these issues by connecting the autoblock to the belay loop. Your belay loop is rated for fall arrests and it will not shift upwards relative to the rappel device no matter what orientation your legs are in. Some people also may find they have better control over the descent due to the angle of the brake end ropes being more aggressive
On tiny dyneema, what’s is the best knot (clove histch, bowline, in-line figure 8, overhand...) that has know slippage an reduce strength data for this rap usage?
I am seeing manual locking carabiners all over the place in this video. Please, do NOT use manual locking carabiners. People forget to lock them all the time. Please DO use auto locking carabiners like Petzl ball lock or similar.
I really wish climbers would quit using the word redundant......look it up in the dictionary.....basically the word redundant means "not important, does not matter, ".......just simply say...."back up".
You're just talking about one of the definitions. Another one of the definitions from Webster's dictionary is: serving as a duplicate for preventing failure of an entire system upon failure of a single component.
I also like the word "shock loading" . That is prob the most discuss words I have heard since I started Climbing 8 years ago. Say that word and everyone has to have their two cents haha
