You may not realize it' but every hour you put into this build, you have saved a first time builder about 5 to 10 hours of the same. Nice start for a first timer !
Yes I do realize that. That’s why I keep going. I’m really trying to help the next owner. I’m now finish welding the chassis (which I hadn’t planned to do) and getting things ready for a coat of black paint.
Another good episode. I would have like to seen the torque rod go in so people understand the radius rods can’t take the suspension loads by themselves… Another play on the channel name Thi-Sold Hot Rod!
Great job with the radius rods and crossmember Mike! That rod is really coming along nicely! It sure will be a wonderful start for someone, especially someone not comfortable doing those more difficult things!....and has been lots of enjoyment watching! Thanks lots!
If you could find a late 40s pickup rearend, they are already set up with an open drive on the banjo rear end. I had a 47 Ford pickup back in the day that was set up like that, which made it super simple to swap it out for a later model rear end (57 Ford 9") when I dropped a 351 engine into it to replace the flathead I burned up. Good stuff going on in your shop.
I have one. But they’re so wide. They don’t look right with a model a front axle. Not to mention they’re getting really hard to find and expensive. I wasn’t willing to get rid of it on this car. But it’ll get used on something. At least the center section with 39 axles and bells
Morning Mike, I used a 9" Ford rear end in my 31 Coupe, I used F-350 Ford outer Tie Rod Ends, made the ends, used 1940 Ford radius rods/arms and attached them to the trans crossmember...Be safe!! God bless!!!
I could have and I still can. They’re simply tacked in place. Henry Ford didn’t rosette weld the ends on when they built them. They only welded the ends in the tubes, on every car.
On the other end, for years the Corvair front suspension was popular with hotrodders, that was until the Mustang II came out (came with disc brakes, rack and pinion steering). ;-)
Nice job on the radius rods. The car is looking awesome it will make someone a nice ride. Are you going to the swap meet in stafford springs next month
Camera shutting off? Go Pro? I'm upgrading probably a hero 9 or 10. Radius rods look good shouldn't hinder the next owner from putting in a manual trans. If they desire.
No. It’s not a GoPro. My SD card was full. I forgot to format it. I’ve been taping a lot and I forgot to. I’ve got a GoPro 10. It’s great. The 11 is out now. It’s even better
Yup I did. Checked it a bunch of times. It’s within 1/16” I measured and squared the front when I set that up. Plenty of adjustments in the ends to fine tune it afterwards if need be
The rear suspension needs to be triangulated. Can they be run strait to the frame rails. Yes, but the axle won’t pivot as it needs to. That’s how things bend or break. Lots of old rods were built that way back in the day. If you look at any early ford rear suspension setup or geometry. This is essentially the same thing except it uses heim joints and universal joints on the driveshaft. Instead of a ball and socket at the back of the trans
@@ThisOldHotrod There is so much info out there but I like the way you are doing it. I quess if you run parallel you would need a pan hard bar. More chances of binding
