How To Setup a SOLID AXLE For DRIFTING. Can it be THE BEST? 

Same for me. I especially love that Chelsea has been getting into setting up older Ford stuff since I drift an sn95 mustang.

There just doesn’t seem to be a ton of in-depth info on setting up a non-IRS drift car out there so this channel has taught me a ton and given me some direction on setup

@@johnstample3624 You'd think there would be more considering how popular the AE86 is though

Same really enjoyed and learned some more myself🙏🏼🤙🏼

This is a colab we all want to see!

My brain

Trash for drifting. They over extend and cause a really unbalanced ramp of grip. The theory is there, it just doesn’t work with how soft and much you need the rear end to move. The pivot would have to be 30” long lol.

@@chelseadenofa No shit? Thanks man! I was going to build one for my car in the spring. Just saved me a lot of hassle.

​@@bennyb.1742same here! I'll focus more on other areas after watching this. Live axle drift life!

I have done them. Check my page. ALSO, e36/46 would be similar to this solid axle.

Yea! I agree!

Ooo that’s a great name, better than mine haha.

Watts link isn’t ideal for drift cars as you over center it and lose drive

Yea i feel that might be the ticket

I have done it on e36. It’s on my channel

I’m curious about this as well, I’ve been digging all over trying to find it.

It looks like a team Z bracket

C clip eliminators are great for drag cars, less than ideal for Motorsports use. Best to keep the c clips for street and side loading stuff

It’s very similar to everything I explained

Check out my 318ti subframe videos

That is false for any drift car. If anyone tells you to do that. They aren’t helping you.

Drifting is a lot like drag racing with forward bite. But we just have to balance side grip into the equation. Think dirt track racing

Yea I have a J bar setup for the QC.

@@chelseadenofa I learned even more about suspension since my last comment. Look into a Satchell link. It's a triangulated 4 link with the lowers triangulate instead of the uppers, and the triangulation happens at the chassis instead of the axle. The idea is to allow low roll centers, good anti-squat, and no roll-oversteer all at the same time. Keep your uppers parallel in side view, and have your lowers slope upward as needed to set anti-squat. Another thing I learned about since then is the De-Dion axle. It's basically a chassis-mounted IRS diff that uses CVs to power a dead solid axle that connects the two hubs. You can optionally run it with inboard brakes for even more unsprung weight savings. You can alternatively mount a rear-drive transaxle such as a Corvette's, or you can make a custom tailshaft/diff housing hybrid for any other transmission. Mid-drive transaxles like a Porche G50 or whatever won't work (certainly not without making a weird birdcage axle or something) though, since you have to have somewhere for a dead solid axle that's relatively straight to go. Might be able to get something like Smart's wishbone de-dion axle to work with a mid-drive transaxle, but I have a feeling that'll be sub-optimal at best. Benefits of de-dion are simplicity when it comes to geometry, you get solid axle geometry and its benefits, you get significantly less unsprung weight than a solid axle (almost or just as light as IRS depending on construction and whether using inboard brakes or not), and no axle/driveshaft torque twist on the chassis. You can use it with any of the solid-axle mounting types, including leaf springs, torque arm, truck arm, 3 link (with panhard OR watts, watts obviously better), or any of the SIX ways to do a 4-link system, also with Panhard or Watts if you do parallel 4-link. Drivers of De-Dion say it's just as fast as the best IRS, but feels more consistent and confidence-inspiring.

It came with them done already

Watts link over extends on drift cars.

@@chelseadenofa thanks for the reply!