Thank you so much the die instructions and forums didn't help and I was trying to figure this out for several days. watching this I figured it out in less than 20 min. I saved for all my other calibers that I will be doing in the futuer
Wow, thanks a lot man. This tutorial really helped me to FINELY understand my RCBS seater/crimp setup. I have crushed a few cases desperately trying to set up the correct depth. Thanks again, great job.
Hello Mr. Horseshoe! This is exactly why I made the video! Some people learn better by watching then doing rather than reading then doing! Appreciate the feedback!
Thank you SO MUCH for making this video! I was trying this and doing that and got frustrated and had to take a step back and chill. I found your video and now I understand what to do! Thanks again!!!
I only just realized you only have to do all that to one bullet to get everything set up before you can just start reloading I'm so dumb 🤣 thank you for the video!
I've always just run a LEE factory crimp die as a separate step, as do a lot of folks I'm sure. I must admit I've never really taken the time to understand the simultaneous seat/crimp operation even though I have a pile of dies that will do it. While it does save some time and can apply whatever crimp type you need depending on the die (roll, taper whatever) I simply prefer the LEE method, there is no guess work as you get a finished round as close to factory as possible and I, personally, like that option just for safety sake if nothing else. It SHINES on a turret or progressive press but can get monotonous on a single stage, that much I'll admit. Oh well, handloading is like Baskin & Robbins' 31 flavors, there is something for everyone!
Well this is the step that is recommended by all reloaders like myself who have been reloading for ever 20+ years. The reason why the seating and crimp die combos are trash, is because they are only good for plated and jacketed bullets, this is because in these combo dies, the crimp happens first and then the bullet gets seated second which will lead to the case mouth being way thinner then when the case mouth was expanded and now the die is trying to shove a bullet into it. Now plated and jacketed material can more abuse then hitek coating or powder coated bullets, but it should never be done this way. I cast my own bullets and hitek coat them because as a USPSA competition shooter, I go through about 1500 rounds a month and the last thing I need is the coating to be coming off and lead fouling my barrel.
@@DJG37S Well now, that explains something. For as long as I've been reloading, I mentioned I haven't taken the time to really get to know this technique of simultaneous seat/crimp but I HAVE tried it a time or two and every * single * time - the end result is putrid and a contorted case mouth. NOW I know why. I kinda figured the sequence was out of order but didn't realize bullets that were wrapped in some kind of hard(er) coating could prevent this.
....I've always made a dummy/'proving' round - or two (sans powder/primer), then electro pencil the data on the case for future reference/quick setup...
Very well explained. I would use a Leyman 4 die set and then probably have to crimp all the cartridges with the separate 4 crimp die after seating the bullet. I wonder what the advantage is compared to the 3 die set, if there is one at all?
@fredheimer - hi Fred! The advantage of using a three die set is time saving of having to crimp as another step. Reloaders that don’t mind taking the time to do the crimp separately and the folks that feel they may have quality issues performing the seating and crimping simultaneously would probably prefer the four die set. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
It was mentioned that there are 2 different bullet plugs. Only 1 is supplied with the 3 die set, meaning you have to buy the other one? And I’m assuming you use the flat nose one for HP bullets?
Thank you sir, for this concise demo I was looking for. If I may, I'd like to ask about two things;, 1) regarding powder measures; I am currently using the W231 flat ball powder. On the least expensive Lee, some have complained powder this thin leaks around the drum. which powder measure would you recommend, that won't break the bank? I was considering one by RCBS and the Lee Precision deluxe perfect powder measure 90699. 2) I believe I heard you say you were demonstrating a reload using a 115g RNFMJ. I am also using this, Speer TMJ target 115g tips. as per your demo, I produced a round exactly as you detailed it, and sat the tip in till the C.O.L. was 1.100. In actuality it seem to sit deeper than the ones in the white box of Winchester 115g fmj rn Target practice rounds. And I noticed the tip depth seating of the round you produced didn't seem in enough. I decided to measure some of the factory rounds in the box with the exact digital micrometer you have and I was surprised to get different measurements! I wonder why? One was 1.150, another 1.55, another 1.158 and another 1.163. Wouldn't these variances matter and /or affect accuracy? I have also noticed manual data depicting two particular spec's, 1.100 and 1.169. Which would be the correct length to go with? Greatly appreciate your help.
Hello! Are you working up a load for 9mm using the w231? I want to give you accurate information on recommendations. As far as the COAL of the cartridges, you’ll see usually small discrepancies, like you found, with some ammo. Usually this not problematic. It can happen in the factory with their machinery probably poor QC. It can also happen if they don’t crimp the round and with shipment the projectiles can move during the handling of the ammo during shipment. In short, there are many variables that could make this happen. My suggestion is to follow your reloading manual for the correct COAL. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Sorry, what part of my answer was the ?? for? I thought I had answered your question. My apologies if I did not. I think I missed the accuracy part. Those are small discrepancies in the COAL from factory rounds. If you’re using them to plink, I wouldn’t worry about the minor size discrepancies. I would be more concerned if they were self defense rounds as you don’t want anything that could change the outcome of something like that. I will say that I use plinking rounds for target shooting and self defense rounds for practicing accuracy. Practice using the ammo you’re going to use in each scenario. I haven’t used factory ammo for planking in years as I reload all of my own. For my wife’s personal protection I use factory self defense ammo. I figure if she needs to use it and it doesn’t go bang it would make me feel better knowing it wasn’t my fault. I use my own personal defense rounds for a multitude of reasons which I don’t want to air in a public forum. You said that your reloading manual had two different COAL? Under each projectile it should show the COAL specific to that projectile. I’m not sure where you’re getting the second measurement suggestion from in the reloading manual?
@@k2defense Thanks for your reply. I have Googled the specs for the 9mm round, and come up with 1.169 as the standard. Then on powder brand sites, as well as bullet tips site, like Speer, Hodgon or Lee, I get the 1.100. The manual You currently showed on your video, "Lee modern reloading 2nd Ed" is the where I saw the 1.100 size. Its also the manual I am soon to purchase. The manuals I have, I've used the data for rifle loads, and despite they would contain pistol data, they're pretty old, somewhere in my storage space. So I'm buying this more recent one. Thanks again, and my apologies for tugging on you so much, you've been a great help. I hope I can reach out to you some other time. Be blessed and encouraged my brother.
I use a 'cartridge gauge' to drop my 9MM into to check if the crimp is good and still hits the seating shoulder in the barrel of the pistol when it's loading. Too much crimp and the cartridge will go in too far, cause a misfire and perhaps get a bit stuck in the barrel.
@silaslongshot941 - something doesn’t smell right. Wondering if you have trimmed your cases? Also, skip the cartridge gage and take your barrel out and use it to do the plunk test. Start with the lightest crimp possible. Work up from there. Keep me posted. I’d like to hear if this resolves it. 👍🏻
@@k2defense Yes, I have a spare Beretta barrel that I also check with. When both methods agree, I'm satisfied with the settings for that particular loading session. I haven't found much need to trim 9MM so far.
Hello LeRoy Galvan! I have two categories for reloads. 1) plinking 2) precision. For plinking, I’m less concerned with the accuracy so my technique isn’t as tightly controlled as it is with my accuracy reloads. Accuracy reloading takes time and meticulous dedication. IE sorting brass, consistent powder charges, etc. The accuracy and distance are much better when reloading to these standards. Hope this answered your question!
no difference on any caliber? I am getting ready to load 223 with Mr Bullet Feeder and the RCBS TC die. anything special I need to know? thanks K2. your videos are very helpful
Hello! Just a quick question. The RCBS TC die set has an expander die. Are you sure that is what you have? Usually these sets are for straight walled cases. Typically RCBS has a resizing/decapping die and projectile seater and crimp dies. Can you please confirm? Thanks! 👍🏻
I just bought a .40 caliber die set and can't get this thing right. Seater plug is at the top, ram has the casing 1/2 way up, and bullet is at the right depth,...but if I put ram up all the way, bullet is down all the way into casing.
Seater plug all the way up. Die out of the press. Case in shell holder. Ram all the way up. Screw die in until it touches case. Back off die 1/2 or full turn. Lock in place. Ram down. Projectile in. Ram all the way up. Screw seater plug down until projectile seats to the depth you want. If you still can’t get it. Send me your contact info to k2defensemn@gmail.com. I’ll walk you through it. 👍🏻
Im confused. Isnt the point of this die supposed to be to seat snd crimp at the same time? This would suggest thst you seat all your bullets first, then undo your seat depth and then set your crimp setting.
Hi Kelly! In this video I was illustrating that you could stop and not crimp after finding the seating depth you want. Once you make one round to the COAL that you need, then you set your crimp. So, set the seating depth, then back out the seater plug and adjust to the crimp you want, lock your die, then adjust your seater plug back down and tighten it to the die. Then you can seat and crimp at the same time. Honestly, this is very confusing to many folks. It took me a while to figure it out. Let’s just say my father-in-law had the patience of Mother Teresa until it finally clicked for me. If you rewatch the video I make a point of saying that you can stop after the seat is where you want it. Then I go on to finish it out. Sorry if it’s confusing. I know how much I struggled with it that’s why I made the vid. Hope this helps! Let me know if you need any further direction. 👍🏻
This is an excellent video... @kmchartrand99 ...the first 4:00 of this clip is entirely about getting your bullet seated at the correct depth into the casing (nothing to do with crimping yet) Beyond the 4:00 min mark is entirely about setting up the crimping die appropriately...once that is complete the die will seat and crimp simultaneously...
one your videos, I'm new at this and am having trouble. I'm at the stage where I'm setting the bullet depth, I got the right depth of 1.169 but the bullet fails the plunk test, not by much but enough to be a problem. any ideas? oh Im using new brass from x-treme bullets also there 115 FMJ RN, thank you for any help you can give me. David / Frustrated
@MrNitrox32 - hi David! No worries! Are you resizing your new brass? I’m guessing that’s the issue since some folks do not resize new brass thinking it should already be sized since it’s new. Typically the plunk test failure is a shoulder or case length issue. Let me know and we’ll go from there! Happy to help! 👍🏻
@@k2defense Well I took your advice, watched your video again paying very close attention and I used your OL of 1.1 instead of the recommended L in my Lymanof 1.169 and the bullet passes the barrel pluck test perfectly. I only did 8 to check, because i've had to send the S&W PC EZ back 3 times due to broken ejector, barrel issue? and I forgot the other issue. Anyway I'll let you know the results. I cannot THANK YOU! enough. lifetime watcher now :)
@MrNitrox32 - appreciate the feedback and comment! I’m here if you need anything. Love helping others get started. I look forward to hearing from you in the future! 👍🏻
@@k2defense Update, all seem to be ok until the 7th rd. it got stuck in the barrel. Im at a total loss , this is the 4th time there has been a issue with this gun.don't know if i mentioned, it's a S&W performance center 9mm ez with gold ported barrel. have you ever heard of this kind of problem?? thanks for your valuable time. It's much appreciated
@MrNitrox32 - sounds super frustrating for sure! Let’s make sure we’re not missing anything. You’ve trimmed the cases, chamfered/deburred, and crimped? Let me know and we’ll go from there. 👍🏻 hang in there!
I should of watched this before I fucked up 30 cartridges! To tight of a crimp it smushed the shoulder down and created a convex in the surface. Meh it's been 20 years since I did it last.
How about seating the bullets with no crimp, like you mentioned, to find the right depth (with no crimp), and then backing the seater plug out and running the die down to the desired crimp depth? This would be an alternative for those who are using a two-step method anyways and don't want the bullet further seating inside a somewhat crimped case.
This is only good for jackets and plated bullets. Do not use a bullet seater and crimp die combo on things like hitek coating, powder coating, because this will strip the coating away. Why? Because these seating and crimp die combo does the steps completely opposite. What this means is that the crimp happens first and then the bullet gets seated. When in fact the bullet should get seated first and then crimp being done. This is why I don't recommend any bullet seating and crimp die combo in one step, things are when using the wrong type of bullet.
I was thinking of getting a combo die so I can add a bullet feeder to my Lee turret press. I use plated bullets but I didn't know that a combo die can take the coating off of powder coated bullets. Thanks for pointing that out.
@JoeKakuk - good catch! The instructions say one full turn, my personal habit is half turn. Let us know what works better for you! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
I reloaded some today and realized that it doesn't matter. You just need to set the bullet depth. Before you set the crimp, you can turn it back ten turns as long as you can set the bullet depth
