Glad it was helpful! Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and lots of other stuff of interest to hands-on, how-to people. Bye for now and thanks for watching! Steve
The chainsaw bar should be held in the upmost position when adjusting the chain slack and tightening the bar nuts . It can be held up by hand or a proper size object ; scrap wood , fire wood , small log can be placed under the bar nose if need be , or the bar nose can be placed on a stump or log while holding the saw off the ground if you feel like multi tasking . Great video , thanks .
While I mostly agree, with some saws doing so will put you out of alignment with your gunning sights. For me when that is the case I'll align the bar 90* to the sights. My #1 priority is to have the tree go exactly where I want it to go. If your bar is moving in use enough to change chain tension you probably need to tighten the bar nuts a little more snug and wipe some oil and debris out of the saw. For firewood/bucking only I always go full nose up but for felling I prioritize differently..
Good job! One note all angles are listed on box when purchasing a new chain at least to factory settings, of course you can change some to your liking depending on cutting hard or soft wood. Take care.
Be sure to lift up on the bar when tightening the bar nuts. Looks like your teeth are uneven lengths right side vs left side. Big bar on that saw, nice grinder.
The initial adjustment is the key to proper chain sharpening. Very well explained. For my part, I prefer to sharpen both sides of the same chain, since the depth adjustment will be the same on both sides. You forgot to mention the angle adjustment that is done from behind the grinder. This adjustment is important, since it determines the angle of the disc in relation to the tooth, more or less acute.
I want to give a little background to my sharpening experience. I first learned from an older gentleman back in Philadelphia. That was over 35 years ago. I also got Oregon certified about twenty-five years ago. In order to be sure you are getting the proper finish on the cutter, you need to be looking into the cutter being sharpened, not from the top. try it and I'm sure you will see what describing.
When using 10* drop on cutters, change to 0* drio BEFORE setting depth gagues. To avoid short cutters on one side, reset the stop on second side duplicate the tooth length of the finished side. A caliper is handy for that setting.
Nice video. I would have added showing the oiler holes in the bar, and cleaning them too, as sawdust gets in there and can clog those holes. Also, maybe cleaning the bar grooves. Yeah, and like someone down below commented, I usually hold the saw up so the bar tip is touching the bench pushing upwards a little when tightening the nuts. Some bars fit a little sloppy on crappy saws, and if it slides if you are pushing hard, it is already at the top of the slop. I own that exact saw 67cc echo. I want to port it, as it usually sits because my other saws are faster and lighter. I've been hand filing for so long, and just got a grinder because I'm getting old, and the long chains aren't fun to sharpen anymore. 20" and under ok. 24 and over, straight to the grinder - though I have a bad habit of hand touching them up (which goes quick because they are about 95 percent there from the grinder).
For cleaning chainsaw chains prior to sharpening, buy a jug of Bleche White tire cleaner. For cleaning chainsaw chains: 1. Soak in Bleche White for 30 minutes in a bucket with lid. You can reuse this liquid. Mildly acidic. 2. Nylon brush off the chain in Bleche white. Use rubber gloves, safety glasses. 3. Rinse with water, towel dry 4. Sharpen immediately ( or chain will rust) 5. WD-40 soak Your grinder and grinder wheel will thank you.
I got that same Stihl hard hat but I broke the plastic faceshield mesh! All because I got mad that a little piece of saw dust slipped past the shield and my glasses and got in my eye and blinded me lol... threw it at the ground... wish they had a regular face shield now instead of the mesh lol!!
IMHO you slid over adjusting the vertical angle of the cutting wheel. This is critical to a good sharpening. You did not mention that part of the checking is to adjust for wear of the wheel especially after dressing it. I have noticed lately that chains are coming with rakers less than 0.020" cut new out of the box so very conservative. If you do a lot of chains then buying a second grinder and having a left and a right can really speed things up. Always consult the manufacturer's information for recommended sharpening angles. This often does not match what comes out of the box so after proper grinding it can really cut much better than new.
Nice explanation but you did forget the back adjustment angle. Are your teeth different lengths form one side to the next? I ran an oregon sharpener at a sawmill and the geometry changes when you sharpen one side to the next if you do not adjust the dawg for how much you're removing. Probably doesn't matter if you're just cutting firewood, but you'll never get a straight cut if your teeth are different lengths. Harbor freight sharpener is worthless
Very good video, but (and please show me where my logic is flawed...) I don't see how the cost and cost time-cost of sharpening a chainsaw chain makes much sense over just buying a new one. The cost of paying someone to do it, even a $15/hr employee is cost prohibitive, but the time-cost of DIY is also cost prohibitive when you figure the things you can do with that time to either make money (directly or indirectly) or improve your life or have more time for other important things. Chain saw chains cost as little as $18 for cheap brands and as high as $75 for pro brands. If you have a pro brand saw (like Stihl) you should be making money with that saw so time-cost of sharpening is a huge factor. If you are a homeowner and you have a pro-brand saw that takes premium priced chains, well I can see why you'd want to sharpen your chains if you use Stihl brand chains, but then it also indicates you don't really need a Stihl or other pro brand for your context. I'm just a property owner who does his own tree work when I can so I have a cheap Ryobi refurb $100 saw I bought 8 years ago and the thing hasn't malfunctioned yet. I have cut down 3 medium size trees and countless bushes (and chopped them all to manageable pieces) as well as pruned countless limbs. I've gone through 7 chains changes and 1 bar change in that time. So chain and bar cost in that 8 years is roughly $160 (my chains and bars cost only roughly $20 each), and that saved me thousands of dollars paying a pro over that 8 years (the chainsaw purchase paid for itself on the first job). So, especially in a case like mine, it doesn't make sense to sharpen chains but it especially makes no sense to me if you are using a chainsaw for profit. Please correct my logic if it has errors. I kinda want to sharpen my spent chains, but I can;t bring myself to see any benefit in doing so.
I feel you’re overthinking this. I own several size Stihl chainsaws because 1#: I like their quality and 2#: I can afford them. I use an Oregon sharpener to re-sharpen my chainsaw blades because I enjoy doing it and I don’t have to leave the farm to get sharp blades again. It’s not all about cost vs. time. It doesn’t take a lot of time to re-sharpen a couple of blades, once the Oregon sharpener is set properly.
@@alexkulik3978 I don't have to leave my property in the middle of a job to go buy a chainsaw chain when the one I am using becomes too dull. I always have two brand new chains in storage ready to be installed. As soon as I use one, I make sure to replace it the next time I go to the store or buy online (but usually much cheaper in local store). No faffing around with sharpening...I've got other things to do. But like I said, my chains are only $20 so the choice to trash my chains over sharpening them is an easy one. And since I always keep 2 in storage, there's no fear of needing a sharp chain in the middle of a job.
I don't believe that grinding is the most efficient way to sharpen a chain saw chain. With time and yes, practice you can sharpen a chain with excellent result in any conditions with a file and your two hands... Just learn the technique (simple).
Good Morning Jean! I mastered the technique of sharpening with a file back in the 1980s, and continued with that for a couple of decades. But a grinder is not only many times faster, but the results are sharpener than a new chain. There's no drawback to an electric sharpening (except that you have to buy it), but plenty of benefits. It actually takes more skill to sharpen with an electric grinder than with a file, but you save a ton of time once you learn the skills. Bye for now, Steve
@@baileylineroad Hi! Again, I don't think it's most efficient to use a grinder than a file because 1. Extra cost 2. need to get off the chain from the chain saw and put it on mobile part of the grinder and back onto the chain saw again. OK you could bring the grinder to the woods but you still need a portable supply to energize the grinder. Grinders may give excellent quality of sharpening but you need some minutia (learning...) to do a good job. It's also the the case for hand filing. With some practice and minutia (learning...) you can get excellent results also.With experience, you can sharpen a chain in less than 10 minutes right on the spot (depending of the chain condition). So, to me it's s practical choice. Thank you for your reply. Have a good day!
Sorry bubb, a hand file will NEVER be as accurate or consistent as a grinder. A file my be fast for a touch up in the woods, but you`ll never beat the grinder for consistency and quality of the sharpening. If using a grinder is wrong to use, then please do tell the rest of us why the chain manufacturers don`t use a hand file to sharpen chains. We`re all ears here! A shiddy hand file job, slowing the cuts down, and THAT, is NOT, what i call efficiency when you are slowed down by a ill sharpened chain by hand filing.
