My man, the increase in confidence and ease you have in this video compared with just a year ago is remarkable, especially given you haven't sacrificed your straightforward style. Great video, and great channel.
Have you ever tried using just the glass with a little polishing compound rubbed onto it? On first use, you're rubbing the bevel on new polished glass and only the compound is working on the steel. But, after a short while (and for ever after), the glass becomes frosted as the surface is roughened by the friction and the compound. Now the glass surface itself is finely abrasive. Not only does this act on the metal but it also provides a key to hold the polishing compound so more of it remains under the steel as you work on it. I don't know how this compares with other methods but it works fine for me. The only thing abrading the glass is the polishing compound (which is also abrading the steel) so the frosted surface never gets any coarser. I also tend to use it as a strop only using a pull stroke. This removes any burr. What I've found with leather strops is, because leather has some give, it tends to round off the edge at a microscopic level (I have a microscope and have made comparisons). The difference is very slight even at high magnification... but it is a difference. Glass, having no give, keeps the plane of the bevel absolutely flat because you don't get the compressed leather riding up over the edge as the tool passes over it. I use a diamond stone with #400 on one side and #1,000 on the other. I then go to a fine Arkansas stone and then to the glass to initiate the edge. After that, I just use the glass to restore the edge. The diamond stone (well, 'slab') and the Arkansas stone were a bit expensive but I don't see them wearing out in my lifetime (which, at 73, there probably isn't much of that left). I was watching some footage of a Japanese craftsman sharpening a kanna iron and he was saying that the objective of sharpening a blade is to achieve nothing. It's that point at which the steel becomes nothing that does the cutting. Interesting thought. Probably Zen or something.
Being fairly new to woodworking (a few projects under my belt in the last couple of years), I know I need some sharp chisels. I've been wondering how much it was going to cost to get started with some sort of sharpening system and I think you've answered my questions. I know this isn't the ultimate solution, but it gets me started. Thanks, as always, for your thoughtful and thorough content.
All great but if u haven’t got a quality chisel ( made with good quality steel) u can sharpen and sharpen and sharpen till the cows come home and won’t hold an edge it’ll dull straight away and from my experience the older chisels made years ago were crafted from better quality steel I don’t know why maybe a higher carbon content but they definitely seem better at holding an edge more than there modern counterparts for me u can’t beat a Stanley black 5001 for the money the best chisel ever bar non
That’s probably why there still sort after on the second hand market they rearly r a great chisel ude b better of investing in a set of them than any new contemporary set believe me
Thank you, I came across this quite accidentally. I set up a similar system to sharpen my swivel knife blades that I use for leather carving. I had used automotive sandpaper. I picked up some lovely tips and I appreciate your presentation. I didn’t know that lap paper existed.
Jamie, THANK YOU for the fantastic presentation! I find there aren't many that want to delve into the explanation of chisel sharpening. One request please. Can you show how to get a chisel ready for this final stage of sharpening? I.E., if a chisel has been neglected (never sharpened and with various nicks and dings) and needs a complete grinder-based new edge. As one with limited time to advance my woodworking skills, I'd totally appreciate the advise. Thank you for helping to make this hobby more enjoyable and keep up the amazing tutorials!
Excellent presentation. I was under the impression, from other RU-vid channels, that you could only sharpen on the ‘pull’ stroke? Keep up the good work!
Excellent video. Well explained. Congratulations on not tearing the film on the upstroke - you are doing something that I struggle with; I do occasionally tear the film on the upstroke. Do you put cutting compound on a strop? I have 2 strops; one with compound (I have used car paint compound if I’ve run out of the proper paste or bar but regularly use metal polishing compound); the other strop is just leather. I have seen some use the flesh (rougher) side of the leather; like you, I use the tanned, outer, smooth side. I don’t know that the result differs but my logic is that smooth is better for a final polish. I agree about micro bevels on plane and chisel blades only because it seems to me that there is less to touch up and therefore, less time required. If something takes less time, I’m more likely to do it. David Charlesworth is, rightly, a renowned woodwork teacher. I think he invited the ruler “trick” to put a very small micro-bevel on the reverse side of a plane (never a chisel) blade. I do that, not because i really understand the science but because, if David is sure it’s a benefit, who am I to doubt that? At some point, I’d be interested in your view on the DC finishing bit. Please keep up the sensible, no-gimmick, reasoned videos which show everyone, but particularly people on the start of their woodworking path, that the basics of woodworking are not hard; don’t require huge investment and should be practiced; practiced and…practiced. When you have the basics, like sharpening, like sawing to a line, like accurate measuring, then you will get satisfaction because the fundamentals are not letting you down. Apologies for the long post - don’t sleep well. Perhaps a video on how to think through the correct order of making something. For me, it starts as an idea; goes to a sketch; a lot of thinking about what is possible, what is going to be pleasing to the eye and perform its function. Then to timber selection; what timber is suitable but also, what do I have in stock. Then timber selection (air dried or kiln dried; straight grain or figured etc.) then the start of preparation on the planer, table saw or band saw, planer or whatever you have. I think it’s also important to be flexible about your design. Sometimes, the timber shows you a different way; perhaps a better figuring, perhaps a knot in the way but also, you think of a better way whilst going through the making.
@@DavidWing I do use the red jewellers rouge mixed from powder. I’m not sure if it delivers a fine finish than the finest compound bar. You say “definitely, the flesh side” can I ask why? What are the benefits delivered over using the tanned side?
Great info for an inexpensive alternative. Sharpening, like a lot of woodworking things, is a rabbit hole all unto itself filled with BS. Thanks for this one, Jodee. Have a happy, safe 4th.
I used this diamond film system from LV. It's very good and economical but I found I bought the range 3 - 4 times a year. If you catch an edge on the emulsion it's done. After doing the math I realized the investment to just get diamond stones is worth it. Less maintenance.
I use glass cleaner as a lubricant and it works excellent without the mess of WD40 or honing oil. It does not effect the adhesive on the lapping film and is actually quite slippery. Give it a try...you won't be disappointed
I tried this following Johnathan Katz Moses video but had mixed success with the lapping paper. I would buy an oil stone and then strop on leather to get an edge that will cut hair and paper. I mean it's not a terrible idea but I'm not sure it's a durable as diamond or standard oil stone.
I have a 300 and 600 diamond "credit card" sharpener i bought to sharpen my router bits. Will the 600 side be enough get a edge sharp enough on a chisel? I wasnt sure if it was my technique or I need to up the grit
Excellent presentation! I have struggled a lifetime on sharpening my carving knife blades. Under an inch to 2 1/2 " long. I buy hand forged blades and make my own handles. Blades come very sharp but rough sides as they are forged. I like to buff blades to mirror bright. But there goes my sharp edge. Blades are curved to straight. Maybe a 12 x 3" price of float glass for smaller blades. My whole problem is maintaining the angle during sharpening. I always roll the edge. Lansky doesn't lend its self to small detail blades or curved blades. Help!! J
ive been wondering. everyone talks about "float glass". whats that and can i just use a piece of glass i have thats relatively as thick as the one youre using and be fine?
This is awesome info, but I'm disappointed that you didn't mention how you learned it from another RU-vid channel. Ie, I saw the exact same thing presented by Stumpy Nubs a few weeks back.
How could you possibly know that? ..besides, using abrasive to sharpen has been around forever. Even this newer approach using better quality film abrasive goes back years.
Are 'scary sharp', 'insanely sharp" and 'ridiculously sharp' legitimate gradations of sharpness? And is there a method by which I can determine the current sharpness level of my tools to know whether they can be improved?
Nice concept. However, the "wheel" on the chisel holder isn't machined too well (sometimes has a burr) and can damage the lapping film. It's generally a good idea to give it a finishing pass on the lathe or to make a wheel from nylon stock. WD40 doesn't do much for the honing process. It's an anti-corrosion product, not a lubricant. You can use baby oil or plant-based lamp oil (the non-toxic variant) and save some money. Also, any chisel should be checked for flatness before you sharpen it...
I don't know where you got your infromation from, but WD-40 is an oil, it lubricates, protects, and penetrates, it's good for pretty much any task where an oil would be needed. It's tinner than baby oil, so would remove metal away from the cutting surface faster.
Jodee may correct me, and I'm no expert, but you can actually use either side. The rough side is normally used with a rubbing compound (it holds the compound better) and the shiny side can be used for the final burnishing of the edge. Most folks don't need or take time for the extra step of using the shiny side.
Yeah I'm going to say Mark is right on the money from everything I've ever seen. I have experimented with every which way. For the most part I have settled on rough side with compound, smooth side without.
@@InspireWoodcraft What is with some of you YT'ers, always thinking everyone should like your videos. Well, wake up to the real world and become a MAN!@ If you can't take the good with the bad, then maybe you shouldn't make YT vids. BTW, why to you have the DISLIKE count turned off?
@Johnny Love My comment is not about me. It is about you harassing other commenters on here. I couldn't care less if you like my videos and your little pep talk is of no concern to me. Also, I have no idea what you're seeing with a dislike count "turned off". As of this moment this video has 4 dislikes, which for me is clearly displayed. Might be a setting or something on your end?
