Hey boss, A former battle buddy of mine in the Army had a hatchet that was worth hundreds as it was an Army OD Green Hatchet with a cover and it was used for fires on bases that housed army uniformed fire fighters... It was really cool to get my hands on it because its the one thing that marked me and my buddy's friendship outside of the Army. This short reminded me of him... I miss him so much because he wasn't just a "friend". He was a huge part of my family for a time and some 40 year old lady who acted like a child basically bought him and then took most of the freetime he had because she was weird like a 20 year old instead of a 40 year old 😂 Needless to say, she ruined my buddy and made him go back home to Nevada... I lived in Ohio most of my life so him going back to Nevada meant that he would have to support his mom and sister which solidified the silence between us... That man was more than willing to sacrifice to help me in my troubling times like a big brother and he always comforted me when I cried when I was being tormented at my previous jobs...
No. An axe needs a slack belt edge. It's a rounded edge. There's more metal behind the edge so it requires less sharpening. If you don't have a slack belt sharpener, the time tested method is to use a file. It should not take more than 30 seconds. You're going to create the slack belt affect by rocking your wrist while you move back and forth. Excessive sharpening only means you'll be sharpening it again soon. You can also use a large stone and use a sweeping motion. Everything you're not supposed to do when sharpening a knife is how you should sharpen an axe.
Actually, you want your axes not sharp. Lightly rounded. This way, when your axe hits the wood, it doesn't want to cut a new path, it follows the grain and "splits" the log.
@@sethmullins8346 I guess there are different axes for different jobs. The edge of a splitting axe should be straight and undamaged but doesn't have to be sharp. A felling axe needs to be sharp to be functional.
Nah that husky is great had one for about 3 years now and i cant tell you how many cords of wood i split with that. Lifetime warranty too. Obviously need to have atleast one other wood grain splitter but i bring out the husky here and there, pretty comfortable
That is a felling axe, if you’re using to split wood you have no idea what you are doing and should start with learning the basics and working your way up 💪🏼
Same my got that husky axe and the splitting maul he’s had them for 4 years now i got as gifts for Christmas that man just stays chopping logs and fire wood for the winters
@@tiretechplus its a hybrid, it does both pretty nice, it literally has raised cheeks and a beard fit for splitting that a felling axe doesn’t need. Its not bad for felling but compare that thing to a nice plumb, grãnsfors, or helko and itll make you life so much better
The absolute most basic question, is this a splitting axe or a felling axe. A felling axe you want a concave bit so it bites really deep. A splitting axe, will benefit from a convex shaped bit. Then we talk about how to sharpen
I was given an aged and old hatchet from a passed relative (that, and other, old garden tools). It's been in the shed for a long, long time. I've been considering sharpening it and using it to make some fire food kindling, like I see in those winter camping/winter forest bunker videos.
leather strops are for straighten the cut throat razers after a shave because the hair can worp the very fine edg on the razer. it's widely miss understood that it's for sharpening .
It's true stropping can burnish (say for straight razors) but, no, It is also for sharpening. Stropping polishes the blade and, especially when abrasive compound is used, small amounts of metal are removed. It's commonly done on woodworking tools, though i'll grant you it's overkill on an axe 9 times out of 10.
