Finally working on my bathroom. Thought about diamond coat. Been in plaster for 17 years and never have done it on any job. This is the best how to video I’ve ever seen in my life. Thanks ✌️
Gypsum and plaster of paris are completely different products. Plaster of paris may well be used as an excilerator in this product, and can be used as such with drywall spackeling compound as well. The dry mix quick set drywall mixes are simply dry mix spackle with various amounts of Plaster of paris mixed in based upon the desired set up time. The felt brushes are fine for brushing over the finish product in order to make a more uniform look. But back in the day we used 10” bristle brushes for trowling. We used soaked lime mixed with gauging plaster and applied over a gypsum brown coat. So as an old plasterer, i will say you did pretty well on this job.
Hi Ernie, thanks for the comment. We use lime and gauging plaster too, just not this application. Diamond has a ratio of gypsum and lime, but only about 30% lime making it a faster finish to paint.
I'm so glad I found your channel. Im a professional painter and artist. I've decided that I'm going to learn plastering more as an artistic finish. You explain things so well. Thank you.
nice. years ago I did some plastering after picking up some tips from Walter and Wally Walden (SP?) in Philadelphia. I believe they used sheep shit for a retarding agent when they used one. They started with a pile of sand and plaster for a base coat. They were like third generation plasterers. They were simply incredible. I did 3 coat plaster pretty well but never achieved their level of speed. They were real artists and I was simply an imitator. I used to buy plaster lathe and soak it in water on occasion but mostly used wire. Fast forward 34 years and I have to do some repair work in our basement and really I've never used a Diamond finish so it was useful to see your video. I appreciate your comment about the bonding agent and dye. It's interesting to see people using the rounded edge trowels. I always used the old Marshall square trowels and after a while it had a naturally slightly round corner and a flair to it from use. I used to have buckets of lime putty ready for jobs.... the material just spoke to me and brushing out and troweling was of course challenging but rewarding. Unless you have or develop a knack for it I'm not sure it is something you can explain. For me, the material just spoke to me. Sorry for the ramble..
Like we say when putting a hard trowel finish on concrete.....make that trowel ring boys! That wall looks great and if the homeowner paints over it, they are insane
They always do(paint over it) and then wonder why it started dying so quickly. Are they going to believe that they smothered it and I couldn't breathe? Of course not. Hard headed folks of the world. Peace.
Good video. For me, I'd double up the first wall you did. Leaving it for too long before doubling it will surely result in the first pass pulling, resembling a tearing effect. You don't want the first pass to sit too long, and it's never too quick to make a second pass. For the color change...you want to have your first trowel down before it turns gray, then a second and third trowel after the color darkens. Easier to work with then. Also, square edged trowel...I know Kirk G likes the pool trowels, but they're limited in their uses. Pool trowels tend to be too flexible. A less flexing, more stiff trowel is best. Curry, Marshalltown and Ox make good trowels. Good video, keep up the good work! Steve.
Hi Norest, thanks for the comments. I definately waited a bit too long to double back - however, it worked out perfectly, just needed a little more elbow grease! I have several trowels. The one I used here was a pool trowel by Nella - very ridged. I agree that pool trowels are typically too flexible. Thanks for watching.
Mate been plastering 27 years and I have 1 tip for you get rid of that pool trowel,its got too much flex in it for skimming or any plastering, get A 13,14 in curry or marshalltown stainless steel trowel 👍
Next time add a teaspoon of Cream of Tartar ( Cooking Spice) in your water mix it up before you add your plaster it will add 30 more mins more to mud setting up...
Gold bond retarder made by National Gypsum is a more reliable product. I've also used soft drinks as a substitute. Orange crush specifically. But be warned if you over do it your diamond will NEVER set. It will just dry out and check crack off the walls and or ceiling.
Hello, thank you for the video. Can you help us with a tip where we can buy veneer plaster in USA? Homedepot and Lowe don't have it in stock and orders take a long time. We have contacted USG and have received no response. a distributor. we are located in Salt Lake City, thank you 🙏
In UK 🇬🇧 we have a different system Although there are similar products to the one you’ve used. Similar products in the UK are you generally only used in jobs where the Architect ( has specified )
Great video. My company paints, drywall’s, and plasters. It’s fun to see others do exactly what we do. I subscribed and I’m looking forward to watching more.
Hi Steve, thanks for watching! We have big plans for these videos and will be posting more in the next couple of months. It's a challenging trade because of all the variables you'll come across on a single project - and that's what make you and I more experienced than the rest!
Please do not paint plaster. Over three millennium in service to us as wall a finish, one thing I have learned in my 50 years is DONT PAINT PLASTER- STUCCO- OR SHOT CRETE. If there's something recently discovered that changed the game with our old friend Plaster, feel free to correct me. PAINT MURDERS PLASTER. No good can come from that. Long time Lather Plaster's best buddy. Peace.
Thanks for the video! Curious what size trowel and pool trowel you are using? Recommend any particular ones? Also you mentioned not using diamond over joint compound, curious why, does the water damage the joint compound? or an adhesion issue that plasti-weld would solve?
Hi Maxamillion, because Diamond Veneer is gypsum with some lime, it is a stone, therefore has no forgiveness with flexibility. No flexibility equals cracks. If you want to us it over joint compound, the best approach is to apply an adhesive - like Plasti-Weld - and then a base coat of either Structolite or Diamond Base, and then Diamond Veneer as your finish coat. Hope this helps and thanks for watching! Shayne
Thanks for asking and thanks for watching... Drywall or Grand Prix Plaster board are the best materials to hang over the ICF system. ICF has furring strip within the Styrofoam to easily hang boards. Once it's lathed, then you can consider finishing - either standard drywall methods, or the veneer plaster system - which is, Diamond Base Coat, and then Diamond Finish Coat (what I'm doing in this video). If you haven't done the plaster veneer system, you shouldn't attempt it on a large project. Shayne
I did a wall (bonding agent and 1 coat of diamond) and learned a lot...ha...so I want to recoat it. It is less than a week old. Do I coat it with a bonding agent again or just wet it and recoat it? Great video ... very well done.
I just tried this product for the first time. I figured once I did the first wall I went back and started trawling the wall smoothing it out since it was near drying came out good but did the same mistake going 2 walls ahead
How about Plaster Weld (pink stuff) to prep wall. I like that you can water trowel it. Looked like you were burnishing it. If skill set for application not 100% I still think its manageable. All depending on the size of area. It's doable for must DIY'ers with half decent skill set. Nice job. I like the explanation on what to see and expect using this product.
Thank our. Unsure if you know what tools to use to apply very very stiff lime plaster. Iam having to check with Japanese Jigane trowel, or I cut a piece of hot rolled mild steel and make my own trowel. Mild steel at 2mm thick is stiff blade and grips lime plaster better than stainless or carbon steel. Great real life videos you do. Thanks.
This is beautiful!! I have a few questions. How to you introduce a color to the plaster? How do you repair small scratches or chipped corners when other crews come in to work?
I don't use pigments to colour our finish coats. We either leave them raw or seal & paint them. It also make for a much easier repair from scratches and chips - simply by using drywall or spackling compounds. Hope this helps.
@@plasterdrywallbyshaynebeda4503 very true, though I would imagine it would leave about the same surface as this veneer coat does after water sanding it down. I've never used veneer, though, so I can't say.
Thank you for all the advice and instruction. If the wall was bigger could you have divided it in half and did it over 2 days. Would the product allowed you to touch the seam later
Great video. It has helped me tremendously in my first attempt at plastering and using the Diamond Veneer. I know it'll be far from perfect, but what the hay. One of my issues is clean up. When I get ready to clean my tools I find the DV had hardened to where it is the hardest part of the job, the clean up. How do you handle this part? Getting my mixer clean would be easier with C4. 😂
Ah yes. Working with Diamond Veneer - or any plaster for that matter, really needs to be with at least two people. One to do the work, and the other to clean the moment you're done with the tools and before the setting time hits. Just think how good you'll be at cleaning tools! Thanks for watching, Shayne
Would you say that venetian plaster would have been a better choice for this kitchen sir? A little more material, couple of coats ane a couple of thousand dollars more. Either way you did an awesome job looks great. 👏
Thank you for sharing this video. The details you include in the narrative and the camera work and angles helped me immensely to take on and accomplish a remodel job where the homeowners wanted a diamond veneer finish as opposed to drywall joint compound (my greater experience). I used both a square trowel and a pool trowel for the application and found the pool trowel much better for me to work with, except the corner areas of course. Would you please tell me where I can find the the type of work lights you use? Thanks again and much respect.
Hello! great video.... I just had a couple questions! How do you know when to start layer two ? is layer one a certain consistency at that point that you can check before starting layer two? Also, have you ever tinted the plaster so its a final finish instead of painting over? If so what product do you use?
Wonderful video and work! If I'm working by myself on a large wall, can I stop after 12' or so, double back and then continue on the next 12' or will it show where I've stopped and started?
Hi Jennifer, it won't show where you stopped. I plan my 'double back' coat based on timing. You have 60min before Diamond starts to turn hard. I would recommend troweling for 15-20min and then double back.
Thank you for a very helpful video... keep them long and thorough, it's the right way! BTW, can a float or sponge be used instead of the blister brush?
I have a question about the diamond plaster finish wall damage from water leak. It's hard to find good information about this. We had the walls done with the whole metal base mesh, coating, etc., and a few months later we had a water leak that was hard to fix and as a result we ended up with a stained diamond plaster in that area. Our contractor said to paint over it, but then you will see the difference between the beautiful, satin finish diamond plaster, and the paint. You're applying the plaster veneer right onto the previous surface. Can the that be done to the diamond plaster? The plaster has not bubbled or flaked or cracked, it's just badly stained.
Thank you for asking. There's only one way to get rid of the water staining, and that's to use an oil based 'stain killer'/primer. The best product I've used is Sherwin Williams Extreme Block Oil Primer. At that point, if you want to skim coat your wall with another layer of Diamond Veneer, you can, but not without using a plaster bonding agent like Quikcrete Cement Bonder, or USG Plaster Bonder, or Weldbond... or any other PVA that's available. Hope this helps, and if not, send me an e-mail - shayne@bedals.com
Hey Osoblues, You can, however it really should have a base coat of Diamond Base first - and, you should inspect the taped joints to be sure they are permanently secure. Hope this helps.
Gypsum is plaster of Paris when calcined in a Kiln at 160. I seen a plasterer in the comments say that gypsum and plaster of Paris or different things. I had to check.
Hi, if the paint is secure, I would use a Diamond Base first, and then Diamond Veneer. Always make sure you're using a bonding agent first. Hope this helps, Shayne
Hi Are, yes you can. Personally, I wouldn't 'add' it into the compound, however it's amazing to apply it first, and then skim. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
I love that product. I've done 2 rooms in my house in Vegas but now can't find the product......I've gone to the big commercial contractors, HD, LOWES....no one has it. Even called USG headquarters.....great product.
Hi Maggie, Diamond Veneer is produced by USG & CGC, which is North America's largest producer of anything Plaster or Drywall. Any local building supply store is able to bring it in if they carry USG product. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video. Is there a reason that you did not use the base veneer product first? I am a first-timer and trying to cover a cement board with plaster (trying to blend one wall of the bathroom where we have installed cement board to the rest of the bathroom that is plaster). USG recommended the base coat first and then moving along to the finish. I realize the bonding agent is key, but am wondering if they are upselling me with the base coat. Thanks again for the great tutorial!
Hi Plembo, they are not upselling you. The reason I didn’t use the base coat is because I didn’t want the extra thickness due to the existing tile base. Diamond Base Coat should be used when you can.
Gréât vidéo and learned lots. I live in an apt that was built in 1910. Most walls are plaster except for a closet that was added to my foyer in the 1980’s. The closet has drywall that I would like to skim coat with Diamond veneer plaster in order to match the rest of the walls. Any insight or tips would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Antoinea, the best method would be to apply a bonding agent, and then a Diamond Base Coat, and the Diamond Veneer finish coat. Hope this helps. Shayne
Thank you sir! For the base coat would you recommend Structolite or Diamond venger base coat? I alps noticed that your video you apply veneer plaster right on top without any vase coat. Is the base coat step required or not just optional.
@@antoinea.jaoude4504 I didn’t use a base coat for this particular application because it was an already finished wall with tile base. Any other application, I would use either Structolite or Diamond Base.
Thanks Shayne, I really appreciate your response. the wall I would like to skim coat has a baseboard. I am a little bit concerned adding base coat layers and plaster veneer finishing coat might make the wall way too thick protruding outside the baseboard.
Hi there! Thanks for the excellent and thorough video! I’m a general contractor and if I may ask, what is the approximate price difference skim coating with this veneer plaster vs regular mud? Is it feasible to do an entire house with this for level 5 finish?
This video is an example of what's possible with Diamond Veneer Finish Coat. To do an entire room, or home is a different method... The room must be lathed with Plaster Board (Blue), and then taped with self-sticking fiberglass tape, and then a base coat of Diamond Base Coat, and then Diamond Veneer Finish Coat. And, it requires a much higher skill level. To answer your question, it will most likely cost about 10X higher than standard drywall methods. However, the result beautiful and superior! Hope this helps, Shayne
Very nice, there are so few videos about working with Diamond Veneer outside of Kirk Giordano, and his method is very unorthodox: he doesn't double back a second coat or water trowel, and I am not sure how he is smoothing out his wet plaster without tearing a bunch of it off, which is what happened when I tried it. I do wish you had shown more about how you worked around that outlet, especially the narrowest part underneath it. One issue I have had is my Diamond is curing a bit chalky, and can be scratched with a fingernail. My only thoughts are I used too much water while smoothing, or over troweled while it was still wet, or maybe spread it too thin, would any of those cause this problem?
Hi Paul, first off, thanks for supporting my new endeavour! Kirk seems to be a great rough plasterer - lathing and base coats - but nothing more than that. Overworking the Diamond finish with too much water will make it a bit chalky. Diamond Veneer is mostly gypsum and the reason it gets a bit chalky. I used standard taping knives around the receptacle. As I learn how to present this kind of work, I’ll pay more attention to those small details that make a big difference.
No disrespect when I make my comment. I would give you a passing grade. Although Kirk falls short of quality and at times I think he’s makes things up as he goes. In this video you show the basics and even mention a base coat layer which I would have probably have done. Applying a base coat does two thing right out of the gate. First is will help fill out with the faux brick and second it will give your finish coat a little suction that will provide a better finish. I notice like Kirk you use a pool trowel. I have to say I never ever have used a pool trowel in 35 years. Use a plaster trowel for plaster. Try it I promise you will find better control. A pool towel flexes to much on the end (toe and heel) and it’s huge. Start on the left side work to the right. Then reapply a second coat using the same product, but never use fresh over old. Smooth it out the best you can ten wait. It tends to turn color and looses its sheen. You should never be able to put your fingernail into diamond. I have a feeling you “killed” the set caused by over working it. It probably even peeled on you. It’s ok though. I like to see homeowners get their hands dirty but plaster can be evil and difficult to say the least. You used a real plaster mop. Usually that is used at the end of your last troweling. During the troweling process use a large 9” bristle brush. I would have set the tape back 1/8” as well. It’s a bit to close. And if you try using a throw a way brush at the corners and base will give a clean finished look. Also, auto clave lime finish plaster actually never sets, it needs the aid of molding plaster or gauging plaster. At the end of the day you did a ok job. On the next one shine a light on an angle while you trowel. This can aid in laying down your finish real smooth.
I intend to add a diamond veneer skim coat over existing plaster. I have closed in a couple of doors with sheetrock and have brought everything level with the existing plaster with stuctolite. The existing plaster finish is old world and my intent is to plaster weld and apply diamond veneer without a base coat. I am okay with it having an imperfect smooth look. You stated in the comments that a base coat is preferred but is it necessary for my application?
Hi David, you will be fine applying Diamond Veneer over your existing plaster. The base coat is only required if you're planning on going over unfinished plaster board or drywall. Thanks for watching! Shayne
Hi Susan, good question - I did not. If you notice in the video this wall was already structurally finished. I just decorated it by making it smooth. To prevent any failures, I used an adhesive to be sure that the material I applied permanently bonded. Hope this helps, Shayne
If you cannot get diamond veneer plaster, is there a substitute? Can't find it in my area. I like the narration of the video - very good format for an instructional video.
There are several other methods for skim coating. If you're located in North America, you'll find Diamond. It's made by the United States Gypsum Company, also the Canadian Gypsum Company. However, you can also use lime if you don't want to sand - also produced by the same company. Anything else, you'll have to sand it - drywall compounds would be the next best alternative. Thanks for watching!
Hi and thank you for the question! Yes, that's exactly how it looks - blotchy gray. Most of the time we're painting the surface afterwards, but some people - including me - like the look of the 'artisan' finish. It resembles Venetian plaster a bit. I always recommend painting afterwards. Hope this helps.
Hi Shayne. Great video. I'm removing layers of painted over wallpaper to get down to 100 year old plaster walls in my home. Can Diamond Veneer finish be applied directly on top of the old plaster, or do I need to first do some kind of plaster bonder and/or base coat? Thanks!
Hi Tony, yes, Diamond Vereer is an excellent finish coat, but can be a bit challenging to handle unless you're somewhat familiar with using a trowel. Diamond Veneer is primarily gypsum with a little bit of lime and doesn't stick to anything but a properly applied base coat. Saying that, using a plaster/cement bonding adhesive is mandatory if you're not using a base coat. Be aware of pre-existing cracks an flaking paint. These need to be fixed first, and then the adhesive, and then the finish coat. Check out my videos of the Cobblestone Mansion we renovated. The video quality may be poor but you'll get some good information from it. Hope this helps.
Hello I ran into a snag, when I applied my second pass I waited about 20 minutes however my product didn't go on smooth and my product started to turn gray to quickly, so I wet-troweled what I could as fast as I could before the product hardened but I didn't get to the entire wall in time. Did I wait too long for my second pass and how do I correct this after the product cures? The bottom of the wall is fairly smooth the top o the wall is rough.
Hi LaShell, You can do two things. Either use drywall compound (adhesive isn't necessary) and coat the entire area, and then sand it. Or, apply a coat of adhesive and apply another coat of Diamond. It sounds like the Diamond Veneer your using is either old or hasn't been climate controlled. Once humidity starts to get in the product, it will speed up the setting time. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching. Shayne
Great video! Thanks for making! Quick question I hope you can answer: What if you're doing a large wall and can only do it in smaller sections? What happens if the first section is completed and you're ready to start the next? Can you overlap newer diamond over previous? Or do you need to re-apply bonding agent on the previous section before overlapping? Instructions say not to overlap but I'm sure you're encountered this before?
Hi, if you're working into an area that is 'hard, but still wet', you can simply continue with the process. If you're working into an area that is 'hard, and dry', you'll need to coat the edge that your working into with adhesive, and then continue. Thanks for watching! Shayne
What is the ideal time to wait before doubling back? What does the plaster look/feel like at this point? How long after the double back is ideal to wait before water troweling? What does the plaster look/feel like at this point?
Hi Matthew, my suggestion would be to watch the video again and you'll find some answers, and then do some experimenting. Handling the material is the only real way to learn. Hope this helps.
Hello, Diamond Veneer should be used over 'grand prix plaster board'. However, it can be used over drywall using proper preparation... coat the entire surface with a PVA adhesive/plaster bonder, and then tape coat with Diamond BASE, and then coat with Diamond Veneer. The video you watched is an example of 'experimentation' with the product. Thanks for watching!
we are starting with a LEVEL #5 drywall finish. We applied the QUIKCRETE BONDING ADHESIVE as recommended then we will apply the Diamond Veer. Does this work. We Appreciate it very much! Mike
appreciate the amazing response!!! the "base" to the level 5 dry wall is it because the drywall sucks out the water so less working time. (i guess the main reason) thank you!!
Diamond Veneer is a ‘plastering’ method, not a drywall method. Level 5 should be completed with ‘drywall’ products. Diamond will not have any flexibility and therefore can crack if the ‘base’ isn’t solid enough. Drywall compounds have ‘some’ flexibility, therefore no need for a base coat. Hope this helps.
Hi Phillips Property Maintenance, Yes you can, however would make some adjustments... Hang the board, tape it with Durabond 90 Type Setting Compound, apply PVA/Cement Bonding Adhesive/Plaster Bonding Adhesive, apply a base coat of Diamond Veneer Base, and then apply the Diamond Veneer Finish Coat. This will give you a professional result. If you choose to apply it right over standard drywall, at least apply the PVA first. I would be concerned about future cracking but it may not. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Would you use a pool trowel to apply a skim coat plaster containing lime and silica sand ? Which is a good Pool trowel ? What is the procedure to apply the skim coat ? How would you apply a very very very stiff almost 'water free' lime base coat e.g. 8x3 inch Midget trowel or a Japanese Jigane trowel or other ?thank you for your help.
Hi DRJMF1, I use two types of trowels for all my work - pool trowels and standard rectangular finish trowels. The stiffer the material your using, the stiffer the trowel must be. My pool trowels are Curry (very flexible blade) and Nella (much stiffer blade). I use a multitude of finish trowels but my main finish trowel is Nella. I use a pool trowel anywhere I would use a finish trowel - they're more forgiving. However, that doesn't mean I don't use my finishing trowels. Determining which trowel is the best one for the occasion comes with experience. I can't tell you which one to use, only the ones I use on a specific repair. Hope this helps, Shayne
@@plasterdrywallbyshaynebeda4503 Yes, agree thanks. I have vertical hardwood wall beading every 2ft to simplify the plastering ob, these will stay on the wall. What size of finishing float would be ok to skim across the 2ft sections of wall span ? Would a smaller midget trowel work better e.g. Refina pointed midget trowel ?
@@DRJMF1 In this case, I would simply use my 14" Nella Finishing Trowel. However, if a pointed trowel is what you have, go ahead. If you have a choice, use a standard finishing trowel.
What if we have to mix the paste ourselves? What should be the percentage of lime, and gypsum (and what finnes of gypsum) for bathroom walls as finishing veneer coat over natural hydrolic lime plastering? We don't have ready mixed bags. Or they are very expensive.
Hi, thanks for asking. Purchasing 'ready to go' bags of material is always more expensive, however you get the convenience speed. Mixing your own material should only be done if your experienced in the trade. We use about 70% Double Hydrated Lime, and about 30% Gauging Plaster. These are mixed separately and then blended. If you're not familiar with Lime, you should stay away from it - especially if it's dehydrated lime (or hot lime). You need to know the difference. Hope this helps, Shayne
One plasterer to another I've found using a small hand held garden sprayer to wet the wall let's you manage the wall a little closer without continuous dipping of the blister brush. Have you tried it?
Funny you mention that, I’m using a sprayer today for a cove a wall we built. I like the blister brush because it’s more dramatic 😉! Thanks for watching!
How similar is this brand to plaster of Paris? I can’t source plaster of Paris in my area but the diamond veneer is available.. does it dry very quickly as well if we add cement and sand to the mix?
I wouldn't use Diamond the same way you use Quickset plaster (Plaster of Paris). Diamond is a finish coat all on its own - and gets harder than Quickset plaster. If Diamond is available, then Quickset must be as well. They come from the same company. I would call USG/CGC and ask them where you can get Quickset. They will have a list of dealers in your area. And, if you really can't get Quickset Plaster, then experiment with Diamond. I've never done it. Hope this helps, Shayne
Hi Jacob, all our work is small and mostly repair. We typically us Struco-lite instead of Red Top gypsum because it's easier to mix and handle on the types of jobs we do. I haven't used Keenes, but would if I needed the open working time to complete a project - and we rarely come across sanded finishes in our area - everything is troweled to a smooth finish. Diamond Veneer is my favourite product because of the little amount of lime, and that allows for next day painting instead of waiting for the lime to cure. Thanks for supporting me!
I have old textured walls and ceilings (swirls). I'm sure the walls have been painted over the years. Am I able to use Diamond Veneer Plaster to smooth out the walls and ceilings? Is the Quickrete bonding adhesive needed or recommended?
Hi Live Life, Diamond is a great product for tackling a task like yours, however, it does take some plastering skill to use. If you're in the trade, then yes. If you're a 'do it yourselfer', then no. In any case, you always need a bonding adhesive. This is like layering a liquide coat of rock that turns into a solid rock - and rocks don't stick to anything. If you're a 'do it yourselfer', then I would recommend two things - either skim coat with drywall compound 3 times, or hang drywall right over your existing textured walls, and finish it accordingly. Hope this help and thanks for watching! Shayne
I don't think this method is the best choice to skim over popcorn texture. My first suggestion would be to hang drywall right over the existing ceiling, and then tape and finish it. My next option would be to skim it 3 X with drywall compound. Hope this helps.
Hi JQ, once Diamond is mixed, you have about 1 hour to complete the task - including your double back coat. 20 - 30 minutes is a good time frame to start your double back.
Hi Ramon, using the bonding agent over paint is exactly what I did in this video and the result was great. However, if the base wasn't installed, I would have applied the adhesive, and then a base coat of Diamond Base, and then a finish coat of Diamond Veneer. Hope this helps.
Yippy! I found the answer to my question! My plan is to do a venetian style treatment on my floor then clearcoat with epoxy. It's the old " makeup on a pig" solution. Hehe
Why do you not apply a pigment to the final coat so you do not have to paint it. If you go to all the trouble to do a lovely hand troweled wall I want to see the variations in the plaster and put a mat sealer on for protection. I just want a slightly different tone than the Grey of the Diamond Veneer.
That's a great question! The original plan was that a professional painter was coming in to paint the home - however, once we started, the home owner decided she liked the modeling of the plaster and decided not to paint it. Thanks for watching!
Hi James, yes, but your really should be using a gypsum base coat first - Diamond Base, and then Diamond Veneer. Don't forget to always use adhesive! Thanks for watching, Shayne
@@plasterdrywallbyshaynebeda4503 it does take a little getting used to but once your used to it I bet it would speed that part up 2x for you and a little better product imo. The plastic especially can be real handy sometimes.
I'm so keen to try this but worried about timing. Would love to know if walls/ceiling can be done in sections for those of us who might not be able to do a wall fast enough.
once you start working with plaster you'll see when it is workable or not. It's a very intuitive material. You'll just end up throwing some out. Once it starts to set it's kind of obvious. Just stop and start cleaning up. Never let it sit, clean up right away before it sets. Another thing is that if you don't have really clean tools and buckets when you start mixing a new batch it can accelerate the set time. Once you do that once or twice you'll never do it again. I used to mix it on a half sheet of plywood on some saw horses....
@@plasterdrywallbyshaynebeda4503thanks for the reply. I was thinking more in terms of days. Can I do sections of a wall or ceiling one day and continue on a future date? :)
Is this the equivelant of multi finish in England? I’m debating getting one of those grit brushes instead of using a 6 inch splash brush, look way better
Hi Nikthegreekcypriot, I'm not sure of the chemical make up of Multi Finish, but it seems to have some bonding characteristics added. Diamond Veneer Plaster is made up of only two materials - Gypsum & Lime. You'll need to use Diamond Base Coat before the Veneer. I didn't use it in this video because I needed to keep my finish coat very thin and thought it would be a good example of how to use the product besides traditional plastering. Hope this helps, Shayne PS. The brush I'm using is called a Blister Brush, or Felt Brush.
Hi Tammy, if you could imaging that because Diamond Veneer is gypsum, and gypsum is a stone, you will need to coat your work with PVA - Polyvinyl Acetate- to allow your new coat to adhere. Gypsum won’t stick to dry gypsum. Once you apply the PCA, you’re good to go with another layer of Diamond- or any other product you want to use. I would apply an ultra thin coat, and then double back with another ultra thin coat. Hope this helps. Sometimes it’s hard to explain unless we’re hands on.
Definitely - adhesive is the magic potion! Over brick, I would use a base coat of structolite, and then a finish coat of Diamond Veneer or even drywall compound would work great.
Hi, thanks for this vid. As a diyer, what mix of lime to gauging plaster would you recommend to give me time to make it really look nice. In my area we don't have diamond and the 45 min time scares me. Also for lime plaster is it just type s hydrated lime?
Hi JL, if you don't have any experience with a hawk & trowel, I don't think you should be trying any plastering products. Using Lime & Gypsum doesn't give you more time. It is more 'forgiving' and easier to work with. You will also have a curing time of at least 30 days before you can paint, but it may even take up to a year for lime to truly cure. Saying all that, I mix my Lime & 45 minute Gypsum Gauging plaster to about 60-70% Lime to 30-40% Gypsum. You should watch some other videos on how to mix plaster this way. Alternatively, you could use Durabond 90, and then drywall compounds for a repair. At least you'll be able to sand it out. There's no sanding Lime & Gypsum. Hope this helps, Shayne
There is nothing like experience with plaster and when I was picking it up from the Waldens it wasn't like there was a formula. We put a pile of lime putty on the board and and made a donut, filled the hole with water, added plaster, mixed it well and then combined it with the putty. There is not time to relax. Once you start you have to finish. There is a little time between troweling and then finishing it with the felt brush and your final troweling. It's not easy work. It took a long time to dry. We used to wait at least 11 days before it was dry. The finish is so nice it didn't matter if you painted it right away or not. Of course we live in a different time where speed is valued more than the beautiful plaster finish.@@plasterdrywallbyshaynebeda4503
Hi Steve, USG, or here in Canada it's CGC is the UNITED STATES GYPSUM COMPANY, and they are HUGE! I'm sure if you went to any building supply company they could order it in for you. I need to purchase our supplies by the skid in most cases because plaster is being taken over by drywall and its methods. If you're having a hard time finding a supplier, give USG a call. You'll find their phone number on their website. They are happy to help.
Hi Kirill, I haven't used 'microcements'. I would venture to guess that microcements cost more because they are produced with several ingredients to accomplish result. Whereas Diamond Veneer is simply gypsum with a little bit of lime - and about $30 per bag (that's Canadian). Other than that, I don't have a good answer for you. Thanks for watching!
@@plasterdrywallbyshaynebeda4503 But it looks so elegant, especially after you water troweled it. Why can't we seal and enjoy it? Or add a pigment for example. I just bought a bag of diamond, gonna mess with it tomorrow, really excited to try this stuff.
Hello Kaceestagg, this finish is meant to be painted, however my customer is choosing to leave it the way it is for a while. I'm sure you could seal it with anything you like. Thanks for watching!
Hi Martin, a bonding agent is ‘risk management’. When we’re being hired by someone, they expect us to deliver the very best to our ability. Adhesive gives that security.
@@plasterdrywallbyshaynebeda4503 skimmed over ceramic tile in several hospitals, that plaster lasted in excess of 20 years. I do agree with you, it is cheap insurance and I have used bonding agents many times. White coat ,finish coat plaster will definitely not stick to tile but it without a doubt bond to joint compound. Joint compound will stick to almost anything.
Don't choke the trowel fella Don't make a fist holding it Hold it looser so u can swivel when u swipe with forefinger laying on back of trowel for Xtra support
