Perfect walls made easy! Level 5 drywall finish (skim coating) 

🤣 hey some people may like that texture!

It's not a trade, but one of these telemarketing tools for DIY. You can buy it too and try if you have just one room to do

😂 great I just did this to my living room waiting for it to dry and now I’ll think of the moon when I see it

Actually, skim coating is the best approach for a non-professonal to achieve "professional-looking" results. I'm a second-generation drywall finisher. The "skilled trade" part is achieving the same results WITHOUT skimcoating.

It's easy. You scrape it clean Everytime till the excess is gone. It's actually hard to fuck it up

Hell, yeah I have a 30 inch skimming blade and it is amazing

LOL, I am desperately trying (to do this on my own) ... and you are right! It is NOT easy!

Glad you liked it!

Honesty and self recognition is a skill most don’t have, so you got lots of people beat!

You can get good at anything just by practicing.

remember that you are doing multiple coats! each coat covers the imperfections of the previous. What’s most important is that you do a rough sanding in between to knock down some high spots or lines. I’d say your first coat is your most important one but will never be perfect make sure you get decent build up maybe 3/16’’The second or third coat can be really tight only leaving a super fine coat, same with the final coat, dont try to build up the last coats too much or you will get waves and lines. Practice makes perfect, trust me it will just click and you’ll have great results!

I am a concrete guy, guess what i use to skim coat lol

I would suggest slowing down and just get each coat as flat as possible. You can always add more

seriously, I feel the same way. It is difficult to say the least, and not one of my funner home DIY projects

Good luck!

I try to keep up with comments! But between running business, family and also work sometimes I get behind on it 🤣

Good luck!

What’s a texture roller? It’s just a large nap roller.

Glad you enjoyed it

With any level 5 finish the proof is seen after primer. That’s essential.

Correct! Well, after primer and with critical lighting 👍🏼 critical lighting is crucial more than anything to check your work but even then sometimes primer lies to you and you won't see some things until after the first coat of paint.

All the best guys are working for Big developers and Million dollar homes.

You need to find crews that use hawks and trowels. Most finishers start with pans and knifes. However this roll on technique works well for guys that don’t use a traditional hawk/trowel set up. Which is most sadly.

@@andrewfreeman88 Thats not true. The issue is people look for the "best price" which usually ends up being people that dont take their time and want to get out fast in order to actually profit. People arn't willing to pay the higher prices for professional jobs. Im in the industry and ive worked on houses where they hired someone that did a garbage job thenw e have to fix it up, and all because they didnt want to pay for the professional job.

Makes life easy and comes out glass 🦾

PFK18TT

Sorry I'm so late! This can be done on a painted surface depending on what sheen (gloss, semi-gloss, flat, etc) I scuff surface with 80 or 120 grit using my powered drywall sander first to promote bond. Make sure you use green lid since it contains more adhesive properties. There's also a product called plaster weld you can apply over the surface to ensure the spackle does not detach from painted surface once dry which can happen sometimes if you go over certain paints without prepping specially glossy paints but as I mentioned above, a good scuff and a tight skim coat after initial coat will ensure you don't have any issues. The problem with heavy coats after bascoat is that the base coat will be over saturated with moisture causing it to soften and detach. Tighter skim coats dry faster and don't release as much moisture into the bascoat.

You’re right it takes some practice but i have shown complete newbies how to do it and they do an excellent job close to what i can do! This method using this tool is 75% easier than using trowel our spackle knife because it seems like the skimming blade smooths out on its own lol

Amen

I’m using the GoPro Hero 9 to record. You can get pre-mix buckets at hardware store but right out of the bucket its a little hard to work with so you have to add a small amount of water to thin it down and make it easier to work with 👍🏼

It is recommended that drywall/plaster be acclimated to prevent hairline cracks and tape failure. This is why garages and other spaces not air conditioned tend to have drywall failures including corners and seams. Good drywall installation and prep will drastically slow down failures, sometimes completely eliminating them. Proper installation of drywall consists of every panel properly screwed to stud and also ensuring every drywall end lands center of stud and is not floating. If drywall ends do not have proper solid backing it will sooner or later create cracks. More importantly, drywall joints must be V grooved and pre-filled with durabond or similar fast setting joint compounds.

That's the one! If you dip it in the bucket of mud it'll grab a decent amount of material as you can see in the video. As long as it's rubber so you can was it easily

@@302drywall_painting Isn't this textured roller made for paint? How is this compared to regular napped roller? After the job is done, can you easily clean this textured roller? Late question. Can I use 90 min hot mud to skim coat or is it not recommended?

@@jobr641 this roller is used to create texture using plaster or joint compound. It's made out of rubber and it's super easy to clean. We can do quite a few jobs before the rubber starts breaking down. As for using hot mud to skim coat if you read the label it says not recommended for skim coating, although I have used it but on rare occasion you get detaching issues especially if you are skimming over paint but on rare occasion like I mentioned. I usually sand the area with 80 grit or 120 using my dustless sander to get better adhesión if I'm doing that. Overall unless you're very experienced using hot mud I would stay away, too difficult to work including sanding. I use that when I'm in a time crunch and I know I can do 2 or 3 coats same day but it's hard work having to mix and then it starts setting up then cleaning your tray etc etc

I had a job that did this. It's been awhile back but I think we either sealed the wall with bull's-eye or we used block filler/

Those blisters are a pain sometimes! What kind of filler are you using? sometimes we get bisters when using fast setting joint compound like 20 minute or the the softer blue lid compounds which dont have the strongest bonding capabilities to paint. Another thing would be painting in high humidity spaces and and not waiting for each coat to cure completely and keep saturating or over saturating the wall with paint back to back at that point the spackle absorbs all the moisture and detaches. I have a theory that also off gasssing from the previous fresh coats curing will also cause it to blister.

I use the all purpose joint compound or the midweight joint compound because because it has more adhesive additives so it sticks better to any surface. It's also harder to sand and since we sand using electric sanders, it's more forgiving when it comes to the sander taking too much compound off since it's harder to sand.

For skim coats I use all purpose premixed mud for all coats.

I feel like it would make it a little harder to get a flat surface. I wouldn't skip the first coat at least, you can skip the second or third. Either way you'd need at least two skim coats or 1 really great skim coat, sand and a touch up after primer. Lots of way to go about it but if you're skimming level 5 then you want a good job anyways so you shouldn't be skipping steps. Sometimes I have taped and did first coat with 20 or 45 minute fast setting then as oon as it sets I'll skim coat everything with all purpose. Let it dry overnight and a final tight skim coat next day. Really depends on what you are trying to achieve and how delicate the job is.

@302drywall_painting thanks for the insight and the time it took to reply. Much appreciated

@@treystills no problem! 👊🏼

you can pull it off on the 2nd coat. First coat is just too raw but once it's smoothed out and sanded enough you can jump right to this at the 3rd coat with a little thicker mud

​@@302drywall_painting That was a Great Answer !! Great Job on the video also

Great question. I want to do the same. Just purchased a house with textured walls. Can we start adding this compound and how many coats do you think you need to cover a textured wall?

From watching tons of videos and doing research. If your walls are painted you'll need to apply primer beforehand. For a beginner, follow this method exactly, and if you're not comfortable getting a good look at this angle, thats okay. Face the blade parallel to the wall at a 90 degree angle and remove as much as possible. It'll be a thin coat, it'll be ugly on the first and second coats . But after the 3rd and 4th you'll see it's getting perfect. Just lightly sand the imperfections after every pass. It takes as many coats as needed. You should get away with two coats per day with standard mud.

Sand and prime the walls or add glue to your mix

​@@h2s142Glue? Tightbond or Elmers?

@@steventhury8366look up Vancouver carpenter talk about when to add glue to your mud

What filler are you using? Using o remixed joint compounds you can decrease drag by adding more water and mixing properly. Only add a little but at a time and mix until you have desired consistency

Drywall on top for sure, saves you from disturbing possible lead and also saves you demolition and disposal of the old drywall. Sometimes what I do is get a big floor scraper and just quickly scrape some of the high spots so the 1/4" drywall doesn't break when screwing it. Sort of making the popcorn texture a little flatter but only if it needs it, if the popcorn is not too crazy I'd go right on top no scraping just make sure you find the studs and install drywall like normal always landing the ends center of studs and stagger the joints.

Skim a first coat with structo lite second regular mud

If you're keen on removing the popcorn. Get a metal scraper, before you knock it down you have to wet it. Spray it with water from a weed sprayer for example. Gonna have to cover floors though.

Whirl Wind 0 seconds ago Pro tip... Scrape off high spots that come off with a sharp floor scraper .. Then you want to seal the ceiling with "Gripper primer" ... then let cure for a day ... Then use regular compound or... fast setting compound 45 or 90 .. ( I use 90) and apply and many as 4 coats to get a perfectly smooth ceiling .. The secret is .. Sealing and priming the old ceiling before mudwork

I used a wen 9inch vacuum drywall sander with 80 grit and then skim it. It helps with the painted ceilings

All purpose green lid