I am a carpenter, contractor and I have been a Home Inspector for over 30 years. This guys video's are very actuate, concise, easy to follow and educational. Must be the accent. Excellent job!
My answer to them,, ' I can do what I want, it's my video '!! Cheers fella,, you have helped me out alot. Started with leaky wash basin tap,, ended up doing full bathroom refurb. Bath removed, fitted double shower cubicle . Moral is,,,, Do not tell the Wife you can fix a leaky tap !!! Thanks for the uploads 😀👍
Wait a minute! This video is lacking some critical elements: 1) no loud obnoxious background music. 2) no rambling introduction. 3) no annoying digressions. 4) no out of focus camera or bad camera angles. Wow, I think I’ll subscribe. 👍🏻
Thank you for providing great instructional videos! I was able to follow instructions as a novice and successfully installed a T in 3/4" line using two slip couplings first time with no leaks. The only challenge I had was getting slip couplings to slide over existing pipes. With a bit of emery cloth and elbow grease, I was able to enable slip couplings to move all the way onto on side of each pipe. Thanks again!
Great videos man. Like others said, only one slip is necessary. I'd recommend that anyone soldering move their torch around more. If you hold your torch in the same spot you risk burning the flux out before the solder takes, as well as not having even penetration. The pipe shouldn't turn that dark color. At least thats how I was taught.
I appreciate your respectful comment. This is why I love reading the comments. If I can verify, or even improve on a video’s content by seeing what other experienced guys say, it’s even better for me.
I liked sprayer in pipes with water. However, a quick blast of compressed air purges, canned keyboard cleaner works as well . A siphon works or a tube with thumb over it work fine too. Many hacks come from necessity...
In the case of cutting a piece of solid tubing to put a tee in you don't need to put in 2 couplings with the tee, you only need one slip coupling. Then you go from 6 spots you need to prep and solder to 4 spots you have to do, it also lessons the likelihood of having a leak. Also don't put shark bite fittings behind walls you are just asking for a problem, in a place you can easily get to if it doesn't hold go for it.
@hyperliterider861 the problem with allowing sharkbites for temp fixes is you have to make them an approved fitting. Once you do that you can't say its approved but only as a temp fix. It becomes standard practice. Then every homeowner or idiot handyman installs them the wrong way. People tend to forget plumbers do what we do to protect the health and safety of the nation. So yes shark bites are an easy fix any one can do but you open the door to very unsafe practices
I’m here in France. All even sizes of metric pipe are used and are available everywhere. For example, 10mm ID with 12mm OD, 12mm ID with 14mm OD, 14mm ID with 16mm OD and so on. You get the drift, I’m sure. Of course, using this system, with it’s great range of sizes, it is easy to make your own reducers and sleeves using the next size of pipe, since one slips perfectly inside the other. It is also great to be able to calculate pipe sizes really accurately for central heating systems. In the USA (and the UK), you are stuck with using a very limited, catch all range of pipe sizes which so often means overkill when installing. Either way, love your videos and one day you guys across the pond might arrive in the 21st century and start using metric..... but I won’t hold my breath!! 😀👍
I've run into situations several times where the ideal repair solution would have been to use a piece of larger pipe, but of course they never fit because in America they're not designed that way. Good to know there are places in the world where they are sensible about this sort of thing, even if I'll never get to benefit from it :)
Even in Canada where metric is the official measurement system, you can only find imperial supplies. I wish this old imperial system would to away. I have to carry twice the tools (imperial and metric socket and ratchet kit). So annoying.
I appreciate you covering everything including using 2 slip couplings for especially nonmoving pipes and if you wanted to you can always find a joint that is near on the same line to fix or just unsolder to get the slip joint in or Tee then fix the other. That about covers it. Nice job!
1:50 I agree with you on the filing. It's not like you're grinding the coupling to get to the other side of the copper. You're only taking off that little dimple in the center. 1:53 I don't see any problem with that grinding.
One trick I use to clean older copper pipe in tight places is to use a short piece of pumice stone. Grinds a handy half round in the stone AND really helps to grind down prior Swage lock ripples on compression fittings when you can't get the brass ring off the pipe! I know, I'm OC and replace my caps and brass rings!! Great videos! I learned all kinds of tricks!!!
I use a round file to remove the detente. Any copper removed from the inside wall is none to negligible. Besides, you’re not filing away the inside wall, just the little raised detente
Been doing this 15 years and have never seen one of those adjustable slip couplings. Kinda neat but i personally like to just use 1 slip coupling and 1 tee. You 99 out of 100 times can at least get one end made in and then make up the slip coupling. You do nice, clean, and correct work though I have to say. I’ve seen many of your videos.
Great video 👍 I too make my own slip couplings, not always got a file to hand to de nib the centres, I keep a piece of 8mm zip rod for backup in the soldering kitty, works a treat. must agree it’s far easier to do 2 slip couplings than loaf around trying to get away With just one, especially if the T needs to exit at a certain point and your tight for space. Everyone has different methods, but the job gets done regardless 🤜🤛
The situation as explained was that there was no movement in the pipes to allow a conventional fitting without the risk of bending. I’m not sure why all the experts are saying use one slide coupling. The price between the two fittings is maybe a few cents, and using two slide couplings is so much easier. Mark the pipe 5/8” on either side of the cut, slide the coupling on to the pipe, insert the new assembly, slide the coupling into place and solder. Some people have said use the tee to reduce a solder joint in the wall. If you know how to solder properly, obe joint or 20 joints doesn’t matter.
@@dlwaterloo2221 Plumbing contractor here. On probably 95% of situations only 1 slip coupling is necessary so I can see why people are saying 2 is 2 many. First, slip couplings are not just a few cents more. Slip couplings are maybe only a few dollars more at smaller sizes but start moving up in pipe size and they become incredibly more expensive. Also, it's not only about price but fitting reduction, I will always try to use the least amount of fittings in my installation. Less fittings looks cleaner and is one less thing that can potentially leak in the future.
@@michaelbrewer3018 also a contractor here. Every situation is different. I faced a similar repair but had the pipe run through the studs drilled with less than 5/8” holes. Almost zero horizontal and vertical movement. I was faced with cutting back the pipe run to the next cavity and opening the hole to allow movement, creating another coupling, or using a second slip coupling instead of trying to push the tee on the pipe. The example, as explained, was for 1/2” copper. I agree using slip couplings on 1 1/4 and up presents challenges, but you also have a trade off if much less flexibility in pipe movement.
I would think that with a dremel you would shave too much off vs a file plus a file is in every plumbers tool bag and it’s not that tough to file off either
I am extremely impressed with your super-clear , detailed and simple information. You certainly can teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks for your kind and helpful information - I cannot fault it.
In the beginning, and at the end he made 3 cuts in total, he cut both ends and used 2 slip couplings and a third cut for the "T" fitting in the middle, but you only need to make 1 cut for a clip coupling and leave the other pipe alone, then make the cut for the "T" fitting in place and then use the one slip coupling.
Thanks for this. I’m about to do this exact job this weekend. Now I feel extremely confident I can do this myself and save $400 which is what the plumber said he would charge me.
Another option is to elongate the hole in the stud with drill and /or oscillating tool. One hole elongate up and another to elongate down for max play. Just enough for the pipe to flex.
A regular coupling can also be turned into a slip coupling without the need for filing the bump stop (and risking a leak), by gently tapping the coupling onto the pipe, past the bump stop, with a rubber tool handle for example. To slide the coupling back the other way, adjust your crescent wrench to fit flush over the copper pipe, and with the wrench butted up against the coupling, gently tap the wrench to get the coupling to move. Have had success with this simple trick for years, and it cancels the need to carry both types of couplings in your stock.
OR you could just use a multi-tool on the holes in the wood.... make the holes wider basically and you'll have enough flex to attach as normal... once done, just add a support/wedge to the hole on each side to fill it back out and level. Pipework is easier then.
One side only for the slip joint makes more sense: less fittings, less joints, less work, more strength. Certainly here you could have done just one side for this exact config.
I just added a zone to my Hot Water System and had to tap into lines adding both a Control Valve and a "T" --in two locations. One T leaked on one side and is tough to reach. The mistake, I think, was forcing the pipe into the T fitting but it did not fit smoothly and was slightly cocked. This is old work I was soldering into. Added a slip coupling and redid the joint, so all's well now. Lesson: If the plumbing does not fit together smoothly, it likely will not solder leak free. In my case, I was mad it took another chunk of my time to redo this joint not to mention buying another propane tank--right now, the pricing is crazy. NUTS----$42 for a 10 foot length of 3/4" L Copper pipe. I should have did this job 20 years ago when the thought first occurred. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the tips. This will help me. I just started watching your channel and you've taught me a tone of stuff. Thanks for the knowledge. Keep up the good work
Some helpful techniques & a fitting that is new to me: a Sharkbite tee designed to slide extra to allow for inserting a tee fitting into a straight run. Thank you.
I know sharkbites are not popular here but in this application I have one observation. When using them on copper pipe, you need to remove the inner plastic sleeve/insert. Those are meant to be used only with plastic pipe. With copper pipe they flop around and get in the way and prevent full insertion. As you can see in video, he had to rock it around to get it to seat. Additionally, can restrict flow, cause turbulence and catch loose chips of scale in hot water lines and cause a blockage. So, again remove the insert when using on copper.
This is not written anyplace on any of the technical sheets for sharkbite. I have done about a dozen connections exactly as the SB comes, on copper pipe.
This is a very timely video, as l need to add some drain valves to my tankless heater (bad installer did not install them). This is perfect. Thank you!!
I got a suggestion for a video. Can you go over the names of abs pipe fittings and when to use them. When I go to home depot there are literally dozens and dozens of fitting and all i got are pictures and trying to match them. It could be a series for abs pipe, galvanized, copper, pex, black pipe and so on. Just my .02. I love your channel. I've done a lot of projects based on your videos.
Before a plumbing project, I make a list of what I expect I will need before heading to the store. Then when I get there I double it and add a few handfuls of fittings I didn’t have on my list. I’d much rather spend a few minutes at the returns counter after job completion that run back and forth with the water or drains on the project out of service.
I'm quite sure that I could have figured that out when I'm at the store but seeing it done makes me know all those parts exist. Good Video, to the point.. like the old RU-vid :)
I have a pipe cutter just like that, but it's 1/2". I have found through frustration that the cutting wheel inside must be slightly crooked so if I snap it on and keep turning in one direction, it creates fine screw threads on the pipe as it walks itself along but never cuts through. I had success by learning to go back and forth rather than around and around. The 3/4" one is probably more robust.
I often find at Home Depot that the people in plumbing isle don’t know the difference between a stop coupling and a slip coupling and put the stock in the wrong bins.
Definitely when buying pieces at Home Depot you need to check EVERY piece. Bags or boxes are much safer then just need to check it hasn't been opened, and the label is what you need.
I'm not a Plumber but was wondering if one could make one cut where you would normally to center the "T" then move over enough to solder in the "T" and the slip coupling to make a second cut? Trim the cutout to fit. This would allow you to cut out one part and 1/3 of the solder connections.
I am a prefab guy before in the field multi family and what I can tell you is service new construction and prefab I've done more than 5000 Sweat joints and no leaks so not a noob so what I'm saying is if tining flux prevent leaks why do you not use it every time just like Teflon then dope if it will make sure no leaks use it
Nothing wrong with adapting your own slip coupling. As long as it is set equally its fine, done a few in my time as I have been caught short. Imagine at 11 o'clock at night on a call out, Sorry Mrs B, I don't have a slip coupling on my van so you will have to be with out heating until I find one in a day or so. "What's that???, tsk tsk, yes I have normal couplings but I just done my 2 week How to be a Plumber course and I wasn't shown how to adapt a normal coupler so it's out of the question.
Thank you, all your videos have been super helpful so far! I'm in a program right now where we get deducted points if our solder puddles at the bottom, they are really pushing us to not use too much solder. I guess my question is, is it possible to tell if a joint will be watertight just from looking at it and picking it? We are being taught to pick it to make sure but so far in my experience, it seems easier to just do it right first rather than trying to redo the joint... I'm bending out the length of solder for the corresponding pipe size so there's no confusion. If everything was cleaned and fluxed correctly and 1/2" of solder went into the 1/2" pipe, can I pretty much assume that it will be watertight? thanks!
@@rupe53 -- Yes! That's a better way to spell the pronunciation....using an "H"!! Lol! Up here in Eastern ND, we also say "Sah-der", don'cha know.....Uffda.
I just happen to come across this video because of the algorithm and at some point this summer I do have to fix a pipe and do this and I was kind of wondering how I was going to do it and now I know
Hi sir you are so awesome in teaching and explaining i am so glad to find you on RU-vid. CAN YOU PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO OF BEGINNERS PLUMBING KIT PLEASE 🙏
Very timely video for me. 1/2" copper pipe sprung a pin hole leak ( ? ( pipe in place 40 yrs ) between floor joists in basement. I was told to use a Shark Bite coupling, ah no not goona do it. Slip coupling, yes, if I can source one, but it never occurred to me to file down that little nub in a regular coupling which every hardware store etc will stock. So simple, Hey why didn't I think of that!?
At 1:18 you are adding an extra joint for no reason. You cut the pipe ONE extra time and then put your tee in place. Then slip your slip coupling into place and you can pull the pipes apart enough to get the last section into the tee. Slide up your slip coupling and then solder them all.
as usual - NEVER disappointed - and... I am anxiously waiting for your video on a complete Uponor distribution home run system. where each and every end is its own run. .. Your copper , brass, and solder is 100% awesome.. lets see some more Uponor PEX expansion ! P.S awesome video and many many thanx for the education ! .. I would love to see you go one on one with those guys from Mike Holmes !!!! you would send them to schoooooool !
Great little video...but, I have to add a tee between an elbow and a ball valve with just enough room for the tee...looks like I need to cut out the ball valve too :((...The video was good in the fact that I realized I had to cut the ball valve..thkx!
other methods to removing a normal coupling detent is a reamer or dermal sander. if there’s a way to punch the detent back out you’d have no material lose.
@@zackzander425 I can't tell you how many I have dug up on water leak calls. Got to love the genius that puts them in the ground before a PRV. Some super genius I recently went behind put one inside the foundation wall. I'm assuming it was a repair from a leaking stub out, but ffs man. Shark bites are garbage.
You forgot to mention you need to de burr the ends that have been cut to prevent turbulence, possible water hammer and that whistling noise you sometimes hear.
Hey got to learn. You should do a vid on removing the ferrule from compression fittings. Eg: Removing the ring and nut while changing or replacing the supply valve for a toilet or sink. You should mention the thread sizes of the 2 most common compression rings. I think that there is a fine thread and coarse thread. Thanks
@@Got2Learn Perfect. Make sure to mention how cool I am in the video. Speaking of which. My buddy has a rental with pex a and its got a rat problem. The litttle cocksuckers chewed 4 holes in the pex pipes in 2 days. Get this. They chewed one of the holes while we had the water turned off to fix the first 2 holes. The hole they made then was 2 inches long down the side of the pipe. It friggin gushed water when we turned it back on. Anyways, do you know how to protect pex from rodents? We have a crap load of traps in the attic right now and have killed 2 since.
It's so weird watching such videos from Europe. You see copper piping is very rare in here. Reason being we've had history of wars, basically nonstop until WW2 so copper was a key material and there wasn't much of it left for home piping. It is used in modern day heating and heat pump piping, but not for water piping.
Two things.... I dont think there is ANYTHING wrong with your voice. Second..... I would have nightmares if I installed a shark bite. I think I could live with a T with compression/ ferrules at each end. The slip couplers are my first choice. Keep up the good work... these videos are great.
I have one - only one - sharkbite in my house - on a cold water line in an unfinished crawl space. A leak or burst would not be a big deal. The things are damn expensive, too!
