My repair bill was $1600. Then one YT video dropped it to $500. After I found your video, it just went down to $10. Already rigged the ignition switch and managed to hotwire it, just have to get the column lock out and I'm back on the road. 100000000 thanks good sir Edit: Column lock out, just drove to work! I had the same *eh hem* "learning curve" getting the steering lock out. Had to resort to a Dremel cut wheel to remove the shell because the Allen screw ended up stripping clean.
Hi Noah , did you remove the lock ? is it working without it and with the bypass button ? mine started to display the message of "steering lock" and after that the "limited performance" ...
@@goldenwings9303I have left mine plugged in just wrapped a piece of thin rubber around it cable tied it on and cable tied the unit to the side above left foot. Rubber just to keep it quiet down there . Car driving ok so far 😬
Thanks for the video, My personal experience with a non-starting SAAB (and solution) described below. Please read all before starting any steps, as I did encounter problems. I had been having problems with my SAAB 9-3 Aero (2009). I was getting the steering wheel lock malfunction, then the door lock/unlock functions started to screw up and not work using my key fobs, then it seemed like even though I had removed the key the car still thought the key was in (open door caused warning chime, possibly also causing a slow battery drain?). Eventually the key would not turn past lock. Unplugging the battery, waiting 5-15 minutes and then trying again did not seem to change much, but I could often get my car to start by removing and reinserting the key quickly and vigorously until something happened. Batteries in the fobs were fine. I read a comment suggesting that an old dirty Ignition Switch Module (ISM) could be causing it and saw the related videos on RU-vid. - I unplugged both terminals on the battery (some have suggested not doing that) - Removed the ISM - Cleaned (mostly with isopropyl alcohol) and re-tensioned the switch prongs to ensure good connections - Put it back together and plugged in the battery Still a problem: Without the key being in the car, the daytime running lights came on. No more steering wheel lock warning, but I could not turn the key past lock. Somehow the car thought the key was still there when it wasn’t (??). I unplugged the battery again (maybe just the negative?) to avoid a drained battery. My solution was to: - Remove the ISM again, - Manually pull back the pin on the bottom of the ISM that normally prevents the key from turning so the key can be inserted and turned to the ON position. - Put they key into the ISM while it has not yet been installed in the car, turning it to ON position. - Plug in the car battery again - Plug the ISM together with key in ON position back into the car Fixed. Once I did that the car would start. No more steering wheel lock warning. Steering lock click sound on key in and out, and key could be removed properly, the key fob lock/unlock worked again. It’s only been a few days but so far so good. Hope this can help someone out there. I certainly appreciate the videos trying to deal with SAAB issues. Cheers, Joel
Thanks for the video I manage to get my saab back on the road.steering lock was a bit tricky but didn’t break it since you mentioned it that you broke yours and what mustvi do not to break it completely off.great video and step by step instructions on point🙏🏿
ok, I figured it out. yes, just 2 wires, one to battery negative the other to yellow relay shown here. The problem was on standard transmission I have to push the clutch in simultaneously just as before when scl was working when you turn the key to start position on ignition with clutch in. Now key on on position, push clutch in, contact the wires, and thank you it starts. Saving my $1000 thank you for this video my hero.
Where can u lead the wires into the cabin? I guess it should be a thick copper wire used in homes in the walls, and limit the length in the engine bay in order to avoid its damage by heat...
1.8i 2007 I did bypass the ISM lock (cleaned it inside as another vid shows but it did not help), the key can already be turned, wired the starter relay and the battery negative, so it starts now, when the two wire ends are touched in the cabin 😊, and the steering lock still on - is it easy to remove it? Should it be unconnected too, or left there after removed somehow??
@@Shiteitasame here , tighten Allen screw to remove steering lock leave connected . I wrapped mine in rubber cable tied above left foot , so far all good
In case anyone needs this info, on the steering column lock, you turn the Allen bolt clockwise to tighten it. It is suppose to retract into the body of the module, not be removed from the module. If I knew this I probably wouldn't have stripped my bolt.
That 5mm is a security bolt with a tapered slot ( -\\\\---- >) which receives a spring loaded pin. If the pin is pushed out (by a DC motor) and engaged, as in a broken SCL with motors malfunction, you will have to cut off the edge of the casing etc etc
I took one out yesterday and them made this very mistake today, trying to remove the screw rather than tighten it on the scrapper car. Almost ruined the allen key head.
I wasn't able to remove the bolt ... it was kind of damaged or I started with wrong size tool. I had to cut it. Then when the steering was out I added a switch to bypass the starter and I starts engine but when I start driving the engine goes down and I noticed that if I push on the button it won't start engine anymore... I then need to turn the key to off and on and then when I push thr button it starts again until I start driving.
@@robertoconnor371 do we need to keep the lock connected to the cable ? I removed the lock and made the bypass button. My engine starts and all is good until I start driving … engine shuts down and to start it again I have to switch key to off and to on again to start engine
OK I had this problem with mine this week. I have managed to fix the problem buy simply removing the ism and taking it apart. I found the contacts inside were dirty and the pins had bad contact. Bent the pins back gave a clean and all working now
What helped me when I had this problem, was just taking the steering lock apart and cleaning the metal contacts with some isopropanol. The problem was gone afterwards and it didn't cost me anything, but getting the steering lock out is a royal PITA
Check your diagnostics. I thought it was the ISM on mine, so I rebuilt it with a new SAAB rebuild kit. Same issue. Diags showed C0547-04, SCL-ISM open circuit. The steering lock module is the fault, and even after following the diagnostics for SAAB it points to that. I have no other CIM related issues like wipers, lights etc. Going to change and code a new SCL unit, and fix it the proper way.
@ WHEEL HOBBIES: A few questions...Does your push button starter button have 2 or 3 leads on the back of it, does it need to be grounded? Does it require an inline fuse? Since I'm running a wire directly from the push button switch to the starter relay in the underhood fusebox, I don't have to wire anything to the starter solenoid itself, correct? What gauge wire are you using? The steering wheel is already unlocked so do I need to do anything to keep it that way? I don't want it locking up on me while I'm driving...Thanks, for your help!
I took off steering lock but left plugged in. Tied it to the side .Twin 15 amp wire to start button 2 connectors on the base ,no fuse . One wire negative side of battery other to relay .Tighten Allen key bolt righty tightly not lefty losie on steering lock box , drops out easy if unit is unlocked from column.
I removed the plastic around the yellow relay and just push contact with my finger to start. When winter came I install a push start button and my son is driving it now driving like that for 3 years don't fix it just go around it I save $950. thank you for sharing
So is red wire or black wire going to the brown and white wire here then to positive post of battery? And where does other wire precisely go attached to in wiring process as you have displayed for limited purpose of getting the vehicle to actually start? Thanks
Are you just using 2 wires, one from relay and the other to negative battery pole? No wire to positive battery pole? I can start the car by shorting the relay pole opposite of each other (right and left poles). RU-vid has a video.
So the steering column like can be removed if it is actually locked? I followed the steps up to that point and was able to get my car to actually start again!
Hi, WHEEL HOBBIES, thanks for posting up the video on how to steel your own Saab, it helped me out a load, I had a Saab 9-3 09 plate diesel parked in my unit, when I went to move it, the car wouldn’t start, had came up steering lock malfunction, after following your video, step by step managed to break the steering lock off and start the car but found it would only drive for a yard or two then cut out so, after restarting four or five times I managed to get it out the road of the other cars. Any idea why the car only runs for a yard or so then stops? When you done it, Did the steering lock malfunction light go off and then stay off, because mine’s didn’t go out, is there something that I missed, any help gratefully appreciated. All the best Alex.
Thank for this, I have followed all steps and the car now starts and the steering lock is out. However when I select a gear the engine cuts out. Any ideas why? Auto box.
Had the same problem and tried your method, it turns over but still wont start. Do you know if the lock module still needs to be plugged in to start? because i think i destroyed mine lol
answering my own question here, might help someone. Yes it does, there is a chip in it. Luckly i was able to plug mine back in, runs now. Thanks for video WH
@@jezj424 Did you fixed it. I do have the same problem. I didn’t connected the lock after removing it. So engine starts but when I engage a speed engine stops.
@@goldenwings9303 yes it worked for a good while after a few months it did what yours is doing, i would Suggest just replacing the cim in the steering wheele , the root of problem. Then sell it . I also fried my ecu now and you Can't replace them anymore . You can only clone if they are readable and if its bricked its done. Gl
Hi , Thanks as I have followed your indications and I was able to remove the lock electric from the steering column - I made also a bypass for a new button connected to the battery and to the relay. The car is now starting the engine with this hack but it's displaying the limited performance message. Are you able to drive your car ? did you remove the lock and disconnect the connector ?
One to battery one to relay , twin wire inside to button . Button is momentary creates circuit , starts car then breaks when you release your finger . Car runs but leave your steering lock plugged in to the side . Cable tied mine above left foot
I know that this CIM saab problem is a “common” thing but I never truly heard of it from someone other then these video where all the people with this problem gather😂 I don’t know if all of this messing around it’s truly worth it, if u want ur car just to run and drive I get it but at this point saabs are just enthusiast cars, if u want to buy one because u like it I suggest getting a TECH2, it costs around 300/400€ and it can do all sorta of electronic stuff with saabs, including programming new keys, new CIM and everything u could need.
Great video mate but 1 problem. After showing the wires connected coming into the car from the relay an battery, where/what are they connected to? What kind of switch is that? Why do I need to connect the wires to that switch? I'm really confused by that part Thanks for the video
The wires coming into the car are basically what closes the circuit for the starter relay, and that's what the push button switch does, hope this helps
@@wheelhobbies5021 oh so it's just basically a on/off switch that's all! Thanks mate. So I could connect the relay direct to the battery for a permanent switch on power. Thank you so much
That's what the push button is all about, once it's started you want it to dissemgsge the starter motor hence the push button rather than a toggle switch
This worked great until I was at store and the error came up after car started. It locked the car in park. I turned off and removed key. Inserted key turned on and put car in neutral and i can drive it. Any suggestions an removing the parking lock so I can put into drive.
I have a Saab 9-3 03 vector sid is saying key not accepted, have transponder codes key turns but no crank tried to jus a jumper the car cranks but no start gets spark for a few seconds and it stops getting sparks?
Has any idea what I'm missing, I'm working on a 2008 saab 9-3 . I've rigged the key and wired the starter relay to a button, so I can start it fine. The steering lock is off . But when I drive forward the engine cuts out. Thought it might be linked to the wheel speed sensors. And when I pull the ABS plug, it keeps running. But will not start with the ABS unplugged? Any help appreciated
Thx brother! Ye still need a key with the recognition chip? My key is so broken inside, there is no movement from the key at all. Can i work my way around the broken recognicion butchered key? Thx mate! Bob Belgium, i subscribed as a token of appreciation😅
I actually ran a wire from my starter relay on the hot side into the cabin with a key so you can't just randomly press it to arm and disarm it put a pin at the bottom I've been driving this car for 5 years like this
Hola. yo hice todo eso, el coche arranca, pero cuando va a iniciar la marcha y pasa de 5 km/h se para, a alguno le ha pasado? Cuando quité el bloqueo del volante lo dejé con el conector, hay que hacer algo mas?
I came here to say something you can get that steering wheel control lock out with a prybar tighten it all the way and then stick a prybar in there and pry towards the exit
Hi John, you'll want about 6-8ft of wire by time you run it in neatly, I used a stainless steel push button switch which automatically realises, a plastic one will do also, 10amp rating is fine
How do you remove the steering lock any videos or tips I used an Allen wrench but it tightens up whether I turn it right or left???thanks for any help.
hey, I did the same as you show in the movie but I have an automatic gearbox and I have a problem because the gearbox does not know that the engine is on
ENGINE STARTING BUT DIYING WHEN INSERTING GEAR, SAAB 1.9TID 2007 Fellow engineers, if you got anything similar to my comment title then I suggest diverting the jumper cables that are shown in the video from pin 86 to 87 of the relay and the other one from the battery- to battery+ Thing is that in my case the EDC (electronic diesel control ecu for instance) detected a short to ground connection on R8 (starter relay) and therefore it could do anything to prevent starting BUT it sent immo message to CIM (worst design ever, ColumIntegratedModule in the between steering wheel and column) as code P0615 This error is a condition for the EDC to cut the engine when gear is selected. Easier than it looks: just pop the cables in the way I have described above. (For reference, as standard: Relay pin 30 is power from battery, pin 87 is the delivery pin to user (starter motor magnet in this case), pin 85 is power ingress to the relays coil and pin 86 is the coil grounding) If in this moment you have to start the engine in a Hurry just jump the starter motor magnet (yellow cable) to battery+ or, easier way, jump R8 pin 87 to battery+. For starting the Ignition (ISM module) MUST be in the ON (+KL15) position. If key is ON, Starter is cranking but not starting inspect the 10Amp fuse for the Engine module, located near R8) this is the almost only reason apart blown EDC for the starting not happening. Hope it helps, Kudos for the Video!!
Hi Wheelhobbies Found this very useful, I’ve got car to start after shorting relay 8 locally to the battery. Just bought a push button switch to install in the car cabin but it’s only 5 amp rated. Do you think it will be ok? Can you give me a tip how to get the cable into the cab? I can see you had the glove box out.
@@wheelhobbies5021 hi wheel hobbies also keeping the lock in place can be dangerous… I don’t want the lock to engage while driving. I made all the steps and the car engine starts but when I start driving engine stops. Then I have to put the key in Off then On and then I can push the extra button for engine to start. Do we have to keep the lock connected even if not in place ?
Hey man question. I lost my original keys to my 05 9-3. If I get a used CIM with a married key , would this method still work? Without programming the key via tech 2
if I'm being brutally honest making this video is awfully kind I don't believe these are made for any reason but to help strangers as good measure ... it doesn't make it more likely for strangers to help you back but it does help them and that is something only certain people value and I refer to them as good people ... so thanks bud if you girl ma or dad trying to say your selfish on not a nice guy I would be very very skeptical ... it just doesn't ass up only nice people that everyone like and wants to deal with make video like this lol
Getting to know what to do took the time but once you know this information you can have it done in no, couple hours tops with stripping the trims out and getting it all back together
Omg you have to be kidding. What woman can do all this mess you've done in this video. I still can't get my car key to turn and the wheel is locked and won't turn at all
#WHEELHOBBIES I was going to do that bypass about 3 months ago when the dash warning showed up and affecting the signal lights to turn on. Just few tries and the signal lights came back to work. 4 days ago the situation got worse, the immobilizer failure showed up but I reset it. Now the SAAB doesn't start at all, signal lights don't turn on and key fob doesn't turn from the off position, car doesn't recognize the Key and key fob doesn't lock car. Any suggestions on how to solve those issues? I'll be installing the push button tomorrow. Thanks for recording and sharing the video