Nicely filmed, as always! The only additional suggestion I have: whenever I check the lateral run out of a wheel, I do firstly check if there is also a noticeable radial offset that needs to be corrected. Best wishes!
I can do that if I have the tools but it’s not worth to buy the tools coz of its high price here in our place. And the are some bike shop where we can just pay for some bike works and the price is not high. I also appreciate the talent doing the bike aligning works😮
thanks for sharing. look, i centered my wheel (as best as it gets with zip ties) but after putting the tyre back and pressure i had to adjust it again. i was sure that the tyre was perfectly placed. is this "normal" or the wheel should keep true after inserting the tyre and pressure? thanks a lot!
Make sure that the wheel is standing flat on its rim. If it is uneven because of the tire, then the problem is in the tire itself, try deflating the wheel, leveling the tire with your hand and inflating it again until it is evenly on the rim
I'm certainly not an expert (😁), but it may also be worth checking that the overall spoke tension is high enough. A wheel that's perfectly true in the jig, but without enough tension on the spokes (I think it's about 100kgf for the common 1.8mm steel spokes) can be pulled out of line when the tyre goes back on, especially if the tyre itself isn't perfectly round and even. Most ordinary tyres are a bit wobbly, so the straightened wheel needs to be stiff enough to hold its shape against an uneven tyre. A professional spoke tension gauge is ridiculously expensive (£1,000+) if you're just a regular cyclist, but there are plenty of very good but much cheaper (£85) versions or, if you're wiling to take a risk on quality and precision, one of the really cheap copies (£15) is better than nothing. (They look exactly like the one shown in this video.) Getting the tension 'near enough' is fine for most non-professional riders, and even the cheapest gauge will help by ensuring that the basic tension you settle on is consistent and (probably) not too low, even if the exact figure isn't accurate. When the straightening is going well, it's easy to forget that the overall spoke tension may be dropping as you work. It's depressing to create a lovely straight rim that's too slack and to have to start all over again! A lot of wheels straightened at home are not stiff enough because it's hard to 'guesstimate' the right spoke tension without a lot of experience. Even if a slack wheel holds its shape when the tyre goes back on, it won't stay true for long once it's back on the bike and you start riding. Good luck! 🙂
Вот без слов всё ясно и понятно👍. Можно научиться, но некоторых инструментов🛠, как тензометр редко в наличии у простого пользывателя велосипеда. И вообще сегда мечтал научиться ровнять колёса на велосипеде.🚲
That is a horrible noise to hear on a bike, any rubbing against the rim. I would just increase the gap to the brake blocks, I think you need too many expensive tools and expertise to attempt it yourself.
Na tym kole mieści się w akceptowalnych granicach. Jeśli jednak obręcz jest uszkodzona, bicie poziome i pionowe jest bardzo trudne, a czasami prawie niemożliwe do skorygowania
