How To Strengthen Weak Basement Steps - Stair Repairs 

You're Welcome.

Super awesome and thanks for letting us know.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Great

You're welcome, but I need you to remove any suggestive product information from your comment. You're right though, you can use powder actuated pneumatic fastening devices if that would make it easier. Thanks again for the nice comment.

,hello there, I'm a carpinter. I can teach you how to cut stringers very fast. I know is difficult for most people, but I do it every day.

Contact me and I'll walk you through the process, (cutting stringers)

Yeah

Glad you like them!

Many many thanks

Thanks for the tip.

Glad you think so!

Good luck with your project.

Sounds like you're headed in the right direction.

I won't be able to answer that question, but I would imagine that if the steps are moving that most building inspectors wouldn't approve it.

See if this helps ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YHWBL4SS4yA.html

Most of the time I would like to say yes, but if it changes the height of your stair steps to where they might not meet local building codes than the answer would be no.

It will depend on the design and method of repairs. I think the best advice I could give would be if they are currently moving, then you might need to add a wall or beam under the stairs.

He means Pressure Treated wood. It’s the slightly green colored lumber that is treated with chemicals (used to be arsenic, I think), that prevents it from rotting when subjected to moisture/wet environment, like damp basements. (Just make sure you cut and drill these type boards in open air/well-ventilated area, like outside or big garage with open doors, and wear a dust mask/ventilator as it’s toxic to your health. It’s fine once the cutting is done, just avoid splinters. The most secure way of anchoring it to concrete is to shoot concrete nails/anchors into the floor with a concrete nail gun (looks like a big chisel that you load a bullet-looking thing into along with the nail/anchor, then with ear and eye protection (and warning everyone else in the house, you hit the top side with a hammer once, hard, and it fires the gun powder bullet that pushes the nail/anchor into the cement. You’d likely only need 2-3 for this project. Alternatively, you could potentially also just add two additional boards on the floor in the shape of a V to the sides of the stairs to prevent it from moving side to side. This would have the added benefit of being less permanent if you ever decided to install a proper set of stairs with 3 supports rather that 2+support structure.

Sounds great and thanks for sharing.

I think I know what you're talking about and it should work.

Yep ,run it across the step underneath the tread from stringer to stringer , glue and screw support into the tread and stringer , be careful not to put the screws through the tread , support with couple of deadmen over night , cut two pieces of wood for extra support to place under each end , also screwed and glued into stringer each side , saves on wood and you dont lose any storage , stopped my stairs from moving and sweaking

Great idea. His method will work on steps on concrete floor, other set is from foyer to 2nd floor. I can only get to underside from slant in closet ceiling underneath. I may just do that. The house was built in 2955 with oak treads on 2syringers 36” wide. Now there are horizontal cracks on some stairs but I don’t want to remove all treads and such, still in good condition. This may work.

Yes and you can get our email address at our website.

I would consider myself to be more of a carpenter, but have spent a lot of time designing homes and drew the plans for most of the room additions I built.

Because it will usually raise the riser height on the one below and lower it on the one above, creating a building code problem.