Best example yet on stringing a racquet. I like how you slow down and cover every detail. You never assume the person watching knows every every step. Thanks for taking your time and educating us!
Nice video. For newer stringers out there, YOU WILL SAVE A LOT OF TIME if you never let go of the end of the string after pulling strings through the frame/ grommets. Pinch the end between the butt of your hand and your pinky+ring finger. It keeps your thumb and two dominant fingers free to manipulate the machine, etc. it will also minimize the odds of the string getting tangled.
Stringing racquets was my first job growing up in Hampton/Langley VA. I have your "shows" on all the time-sometimes as background to drown out all the craziness. It brings me back to a simpler time for sure. Great content for the discerning tennis nerd ( I am one). Thank you and keep it up!
Excellent explanation. Thanks so much for doing it slowly and clear. I feel confident that I can do it now and possibly watch again if something doubts come up!!
Do a segment on why do tennis cans have a lid that can cut off your finger when trying to open it. It’s insane that the lip is as sharp as a razor blade. Got to be a new invention to compress air. There are people living in the wilderness right now that have weapons with less impact than a tennis can lid has.
I mean I tested it when I was playing tennis once I tried to cut my self and I did like swift cuts and nothing really happened it would only cut you if you put a lot of pressure and cut slowly
Thanks for this 2-part video. As someone who strung rackets decades ago and looking to get back into it, this was very helpful. As a request for another racket stringing video, how about you have a beginner's type video for one-piece stringing
Hey! Thanks a lot for your great videos! You can be a little faster with the crosses: after weaving a cross string, do only pull five inch of the string through the grommet. After you tensioned the cross string before, you can grab the end of the string and pull the string through the racquet by holding the end in your hand all the time. Then you can immediately start weaving the next cross string, without looking where the end of the string is 😊
I like your Patience and we’ll clear Explained the process. I’m about to start buying a stringer.. I will follow up on your emails. Hopefully I can find all the answers during my process. Great job.
Yes I agree. I always start my crosses with a starting clamp never a knot. When I first started stringing years ago I started out with a starting knot so I understand why he shows this in a beginners video. I am on the head stringing team and that is also how we do it with a starting clamp :)
@@Jham031 Starting clamp here also, but overall I'm not sure it really makes a difference. Seems there's slight variations across the world of stringers, all with solid reasons for doing something. Experience and scientific rationale no doubt play equal parts. Cheers
@@matthewemmerson9461 the only difference is that you stress the anchor main that you tie off, but that last cross (first) is even tensioned. Starting clamp method on the other hand gives you a less tensioned first (which becomes last) cross and no stress on mains. If you have gut mains ALWAYS use starting clamp for crosses and tie off on cross instead if main especially if cross is poly
You have to use starting clamp on first cross and not pull the 1st string, do all the crosses and tension the 1 main at the end to avoid the frame stress. it’s good use also to tension all the 4 strings that have a knot a little bit higher in tension to avoid tension loss of the manual knotting.
I use 'wingspans' to measure the required length of string. For a typical, 98/16x19, I use 3 wingspans for the crosses, and 3 wingspans + an additional length from the tip of my fingers to my elbow.
You can also weave the 2nd cross first, then weave the 1st cross, pull tension on the 1st cross etc. Saves you having to pull the entire length of string through the crosses. Saves time and slightly reduces wear on the strings.
@@gavlatennis2824 I do it that way, but don't tension my first cross straight away. Not that it really matters either way. I guess with a starting clamp holding that first cross, you can string all the crosses and then tie off last. I find if you did that it gets a bit messy with clamps and string moving about.
These videos helped me a lot, just did my first stringing. However, it took me 6 hours, in-between throwing up 🤮. I started not feeling too great then it went downhill from there. I couldn't leave the racket on the machine and go to bed, so had to get it done. Got there in the end. It was an awful experience, but a good one at the same time. 🤣
Sorry if I missed it among part 1 or part 2 but what tension did you end up stringing this specific racquet and strings at? as I am running the exact same setup but finding the tension im using currently isn't feel quite right for me! Thanks for these daily videos!
Thank you for such a detailed video! It helped me tremendously! I have a crank machine, so I can't hold on to the starting knot string when I pull tension on the first string. Can I tighten the starting knot by pulling on it like the other knots? Would that reduce the effectiveness of the first string?
Hi, thanks for video! I have reels of string so they do not come with the labeling tape used to put the date, type of string and poundage...what type of tape do you use?
Hello could you explain how the grommets are count on a tennis racket for example on a wilson triad five it says for two piece string start X's at top 7H. Tie off X's at 5H and 12T . Where is 12T how do you count to find it at the racket?. Thank for your response
Do you ever use the method of a starting clamp on the outside of the frame for the starting knot? Tying it off after a few weaves prevents the starting knot from getting pulled in too deep on old loose grommet holes.
that "starting knot" isn't that a pro knot? the starting knot is two loops and then back through making the slack of the knot point down along side the main
I believe it is a pro knot and not a starting knot. Also not a huge fan of directly applying tension to knots. Starting clamp imo is the best way to start crosses.
A starting knot is ok to use (clamp is still better) because it doesn't put stress on anchor string. There's a few different knots that can be used, and this is not one of them. No one should use these videos to learn to string.
A Klippermate or Gamma stringing machine. Can't go wrong with either choice. They are about 240 dollars. Start with a simple 2-point mounting, drop weight system and see if you like it.
What's the tool called that he used to clip the end of the string to make it sharp/thin? I always struggle to get the strings through the holes with a string already there for crosses
Hi can I ask a question please do u think its rong if I had my tennis racket string and wen I got my tennis racket back it had a chip out the pant work
Hi I really enjoyed the video. I’m new to stringing, why do you start at the top of the head and not in the middle and work to either end like on the mains?
That's how it's recommended by racket manufacturers. Prob also cause it's safer and simpler going top to bottom or vice versa cause the 3 and 9 o' clock positions have the most stress and starting cross tension there could cause warpage
@Tennis Spin, What are the benefits to stringing with two half sets rather than one full set? (Assuming it's not a hybrid of course.) I was taught to string with one full set. The theory is that less knots would result in less tension loss. Learned on a hand crank.
Hi Vinh, I can answer this (strung over 32,000 racquets) I prefer stringing two-pieces actually BECAUSE of the tension loss of the knots. You see, on a two-piece you will lose tension on the outer strings (the shortest strings). It makes scientific sense to have less tension on a shorter string. If you pull 60 pounds on a 100-inch string and you pull 60 pounds on a 10-inch string, the 10-inch string will be relatively stiffer (even though they're technically the same tension). This translates into having a slightly smaller sweetspot (according to the theory of proportional stringing). There is also a time-saving benefit of not having to pull so much string through when doing the mains. With the one-piece method, you will still lose tension on the knots... but you lose tension on one main string and one cross string -- creating an uneven stringbed. You're right that there is less tension loss though. But the tension loss is uneven.
@@logintech Very good response, but to nitpick a bit, there's no significant difference on the sweetspot by losing tension on the outer strings. The second to last string is still pulled at full tension, negating any effect. I like to pull some extra tension on the outer strings, because they tend to buzz sometimes if they're very loose. Especially on very stiff polys which can be hard to pull tightly enough when tying the knot in order to avoid excess tension loss. Then we actually have pros like Richard Parnell who sometimes pulls extra tension on both the second to last and the last string as can be seen in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-86gqNRFikSc.html
Found some helpful articles relating to the matter: www.tennisindustrymag.com/articles/2013/04/18_racquet_stringing_is_two_be.html www.racketrestringing.ie/blog/one-or-two-piece-stringing-does-it-matter
Long story short, a frame is less likely to break when stringing top-down. As you string, pressure builds towards the direction in which you're stringing. If you string bottom-up, you will be putting pressure on the weakest part of the frame. Honestly, I doubt very many people will break a racquet stringing bottom-up unless there was a hairline crack there to begin with.
I think the main reason is to have more space for weaving. If you start at the middle on the crosses, you basically cut your space in half, and you have harder weaves on both ends instead of just on one end. You should always start the crosses at the top though, it puts less stress on the weakest parts of the frame compared to starting at the throat.
hello i am 15 years old and i intend to buy a new racket my old racket is pure aero vs 2016 and i have a doubt between wilson blade 98 16x19 v7 and wilson ultra 100 v3 I like to use spin but not so much
Same comment for the first main string , use a starting clamp for the first cross string and not the way how you are doing it If you teach for beginners how to string give a good example.
i like your channel man, I can't thank you enough for letting us know fedal's and novak's racquet specs. However, I think you are putting out content a bit too frequent, hope you won't run out of ideas for real
Thanks for explaining the double hitch and the starting knot. Ha, that starting clamp can save one's bacon if one under estimates total string length and it saves string. Fantastic!
Question. Once a racquet is one piece strung can you clamp the mains still tie them off and cut the crosses to put gut in? I hate my newly strung alu string on my prostaff. Any help is appreciated.
Is there any way you can do a vid explaining or providing tips on how to weave the crosses? I've always struggled weaving them the way you do and end up tearing up my fingers using my normal method. It would be super helpful! :-)
Hey man.Thank u for you video,s.If u use a starting knot for the crosses,do u pull 10% extra tension?Hope u can give my advise.High from Holland.Gr J.Molenaar.🙏
It's only possible with certain machines. On machines like this one, where there are two clamps that run along the length of the racquet, you can't because you can't reach the other side of the racquet with just one of the clamps.
I do stringing before but it was ages ago and maybe i learn new technique watching your video.What i want with your video is,you explain every single details which makes me easier to learn.Thank you so much,ill be watching more of your videos.
If you want to learn how to string a racket,watch this video.This guy tells you everything you need to know,with patience.The best tutorial video for me,so far,thank you for the lesson.
have an inquiry about stringing . i have seen a local stringer at our city always pulls the string at the required tension from the racket throat side . not one time from throat and one time from head,my question how this would affect the tension , racket stability and sweet spot ?
It is a bit counterintuitive, but stringing from the strongest part of the frame (throat) to the weakest part of the frame (head) can cause racket breakage. As you string from the top of the head of the racket, it stiffens and gets stronger while putting more force towards the throat.
