How to strip paint with aircraft remover. im using aircraft remover to strip my hood on my 79 z28. if you plan on doing this buy alot of stripper, the more the merrier.
Im studying aviation at the moment.. it is said that after the Finish/paint has swelled up and broken away you can rinse it off with hot water or steam it off, then use a plastic or aluminum scraper, and use a stiff bristle brush to remove the left over or tight residue spots. Good luck!
Here's a couple dollar saving tips: scuff the paint before applying stripper helps get under the paint. And once applied, drape a drop cloth over the area or whole piece it traps the gases in allowing stripper to work better. At the price of stripper it would cost $175-$300 to do the whole car. The paint came up ez. Should've took less than a can to do the hood.
Future suggestions, through my experience... Put down a tarp or drop "cloth" plastic about 5 mil at least. ---- Dull the sharp corners of your putty knife with a grinder so you don't scratch the hell out of your metal. ---- WEAR PANTS, SLEEVES, GLOVES and SAFETY GLASSES.... if ventilation is not good or no breeze, wear a respirator with filters. ------ Dump this stuff into a smaller container when applying it, much easier... try those throw away aluminum small cake tins. -------- Put this stuff on in sections, no need to go so thick. It might take a couple of coats because this stuff is not as strong as it was back in the 70's and 80's. ---- Don't go over it with so many passes.... pour a little on, brush it up and down in one or two passes. ------- When scraping the paint off, use a cardboard box to catch it. Even better, put a plastic bag or part of your excess drop cloth for an added barrier. ----- seal it off in a couple of garbage bags and label.
Worked like a charm. Had to strip a hood today. Wear gloves, mask and goggles. This stuff is potent! Be sure, like video, to get a metal scraper. It will not hurt the hood.
brush in one direction. (dont brush too much otherwise). keep it wet and shaded and you can try putting some tin foil gently on top.if it has factory primer you will have to machine that off. very well could take a few applications.
Oh okay. Just want to be sure, thinking of doing this to my project truck because I know paint and body shops won't go the extra mile to do this. But they will do what it takes to make sure there is a perfect surface to paint on.
problem with paint stripper is that you have to put really very generous amounts for it to work to the metal. If you do not get the paint completely off you will end up with the worse possible option: paint scales that do not get off easy, and that make the repainting imposible. I would alway recommend sand paper and repaint, over the paint stripping option.
Looks Easy when it's Enamel Paint. However a FYI to Someone Else-Lacquer Paint(especially Factory) DOESN'T Bubble Up! It's as though the Color MELTS into a Mush(gets Liquidy) Easily but the Primer Underneath must ALSO have Stripper Penetrate before it Gets Soft ENOUGH to Scrape OFF. Then It MAY TAKE Another Application onto what Remains of the Primer. Don't let it DRY!! The Remaining Stuff Hardens and is WAY Tougher than it WAS Originally.
Agree, I tried to strip an airplane nose cone that was painted black. I applied a paint stripper (not aircraft stripped), it didn’t touch it. I’m returning it (Ez stripper)
I watched this video and then tried it myself with the same Aircraft Stripper used by the poster. WARNING: YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY FROM THE VIDEO A LOT!! Mine did. I did not get NEARLY as good results as poster did and I agree with the negative comments left by Preston Warner below. Kleen Strip worked badly for me. I used a whole gallon for the already-crackled hood of my Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, in FOUR THICK COATS, and even then I only got about 40% of the paint and primer off. I also covered mine with plastic in order to stretch drying time. Didn't matter, my results were still piss poor. The only places it worked somewhat were the thick places where I poured goopy puddles directly on the hood. Anywhere that I spread the goop outwards into slightly thinner coatings IT DID NOTHING but leave an amber crust. And remember, my hood was checkered with small crackles all the way down to the metal, giving this stuff fractures to dig down into. It didn't matter, it worked very poorly. Also, there is NO FRIGGIN WAY I'd ever do this without a respirator gloves and covered up. This stuff is the most toxic chemical any layman can work with. Get any of it on you and it'll burn your skin. One good whiff and you'll smell it in your sinuses for days. Glasses, coverings, gloves, respirator and a hose nearby are essentials. Overall, at $50 a gallon, I cannot recommend this product. Piss poor results
First thing you do is that if you're panel looks good on one side the side you are paint striping first put 1inc of masking tape around the edges this Will stop the paint striper going on the side U don't want it apply paint striper a good amount then put a plastic sheet over the paint striper make sure it's in a cool place to keep the paint striper from drying out to quickly leave for around 15 minutes rub the plastic sheet over the paint striper should be coming of use a pressure washer make sure you have a drop sheet under the panel and pressure wash the paint striper take the masking tape of and use 120grit first then 240 to get the paint of the edges
@@allanday8898 Yeah, if you'll read my reply above, you'll see that I did all that... and it didn't work. In the end, I took it all off with rough sandpaper and a rotary grinder, which took less time than messing with the stripper. Cheaper too.
Agree, I tried to strip an airplane nose cone that was painted black. I applied a paint stripper for 12 hrs (not aircraft stripped), it didn’t touch it. I’m returning it (Ez stripper). The question is can I sand the paint off with fine sand paper and forget about the stripper ?
@@itawad You have to sand it off with a powerful 6 inch or greater disc sander and you will need more grit than fine sandpaper. You'll start with 80 grit and work up. If your nosecone is fiberglass, not metal, you are in for tough time.
I second that yes. They’re great with some salt pepper and garlic on the smoker low and slow at 225 for 4 hrs or until desired tenderness. Great for cookouts and holidays
This is probably a dumb question but I think it would be wise to ask first since I don't know any better but would this work on wood projects without destroying the piece?
@@andreim5973 wow, thanks. =D. Again, I know it sounds dumb but I honestly didn't know. Figured it was better to sound silly and ask rather than make a huge mistake.
I envy some of you. I never get this stuff to work and where I live now its all thats available. I always used Tal-Strip both gel and spray. All I needed to do with that stuff is get it on, wait a few minutes, and before it dries it can be blasted off with just a hose. Damn I wish I could get this stuff to work. Tal-Strip gets waaaay deeper than this though. I get a good app and it takes it down to the bare metal. No worries about the clear coating layer getting in the way or even getting down to the primer.
Agree, I tried to strip an airplane nose cone that was painted black. I applied a paint stripper for 12 hrs (not aircraft stripped), it didn’t touch it. I’m returning it (Ez stripper). The question is can I sand the paint off with fine sand paper and forget about the stripper ?
Do not waste your time with the new and de-proved Non-Methylene aircraft paint remover. IT SUCKS!!!!!!!! Thanks EPA for ruining a good product! It might be ok removing rattle can paint but with pro pant... forget it!
Okay first of all another somewhat defective video made by somebody who has no idea what the hell they're doing, first of all use a plastic scraper because now he's going to have to go through so many processes to get that hood and the scratches out of it, filler primer then primer and so on and so forth. Cause more damage than anything and also if you care about your lawn, which this guy definitely didn't you should put down a plastic tarp and cardboard on top of the tarp. Scuff the whole area with 100 to 160 sandpaper wipe that down and then apply your aircraft stripper and then use a plastic scraper, make sure the stripper does not dry even if you have to apply more.
He’s using good stuff!!..but if your doing it like this it’s very dangerous and harmful to your life!!..no joke don’t work with chemicals especially if you’re not doing it safe !!.. “ safety is not an excuse !!! “
pbodymathis yes i did, i cant remember if it said so. but after a little while if you leave it on there it will dry up and the paint will get hard again so i wash it with water, dry it and repeat the whole process.
I removed paint from stainless steel and would spray it on and leave it for a minute or two when it quit bubbling and then I wiped it off with a rag. The instructions said I could rinse it off with water but I was in my shop. Great information and video.
This is not "Aircraft Remover" which is a Rust Oleum product, the product shown is "Aircraft Paint Stripper" by Kleenstrip. Find and get the real "Aircraft Remover", it's the real deal and if left on too long probably would remove an aircraft.
@@enemyspotted2467 Agree, seems to be gone. Last time I bought some was about a year ago at an auto-parts store. There is an aerosol available which is kind of scary. If its the same formula I sure wouldn't want to be spraying that through the air. Maybe I'll drop the folks at Rust Oleum a note and ask what up.
This professional grade paint stripper is specifically designed to remove 2K automotive coatings including tough epoxies and urethanes. It effectively remove finishes from metal, aluminum and most plastic surfaces. Strips to bare metal within 45 minutes and effective on acrylics, lacquers, polyurethanes, baked enamels and epoxies. Patent-pending and VOC Compliant in all states. Always check local regulations
Put 1inc masking tape around the edges first so you don't contemenat the over side of your panel some time you don't have to do the over side take masking tape of and sand with 120 then 240 Put a plastic sheet over the paint striper so The paint striper dose not dry and put it in a cool place and don't be afraid using a hi pressure water gun do it right and you will do it once
You should be covering your skin and wearing a respirator. You should also lay a tarp down to protect the environment and dispose of paint chips and product through a hazardous waste dump.
Hey, serious question and I really hope somebody replies lol. I’ve got some 3M Rubberized Undercoating on the frame of my truck, well the guy who done it did a shitty job and didn’t prep the metal first, so now it’s rusting. Would this help get that off? It’s thick in some spots and it’s also rusty. Will that hurt? Will this help? Please, I don’t like rust lol.
Easiest way to get off the rubberized coating is use a propane torch. Burn it till it bubbles then scrap off. Be careful around the gas tank, maybe remove it first? Use a respirator, gloved, and google. But to answer your question yes the aircraft stripper will break down the rubberized coating.
Don't bother spending the money. I just used this stuff on a motorcycle tank and it was nearly useless, probably because methylene chloride was recently banned from household products.
Everyone knows it works but damn. Why not put a tarp under.. also not the best for grass or other animals that want to enjoy the nature. I eat breath and shit cars but care about this planet .
