Wow, 800-900.00$ NO WAY! I’m a DIY MAN! I watch videos like this to help me. I went to Michigan automotive academy but easy videos like this help A LOT! Quick fast and to the point! Thank You Very Much!!!
Exactly lmao. I was getting my tires balanced at firestone and they seen my right rear tire was hard to move. They suggested I replace the caliper, hose, pads, and rotor for $1500! I looked at it my self and my brake piston was so far out the pads where rusted and done for. I ended up doing it my self for less than $50 now my wheel spins freely.
@@krayzietj My nice was at firestone for an oil change. They offered her a free brake inspection. She got a similar quote, I don't remember the exact figure but I know it was more than $1000. I did it all for her for 150 bucks.
Very good advice - I just last week had right front caliper get stuck on 1993 ford Ranger. Got so back and hot truck would would not pull anymore. Next day had towed home to repair. After got home it was not stuck any more. I may could have driven home the next day for repairs after cooled and got unstuck.
Thank you for the info.. As I was working on checking my brakes, I found that one of the Pins was frozen, I also noticed that the wheel didn't turn freely. When I did remove the Brake caliper, and then trying to push in the piston, I found it very hard to do so. My pads and the rotors (front only) didn't look bad at all. I have one of those measuring tools for brake pads. So maybe I'll be replacing the brake caliper for sure. Thanks again for the info.
Thanks for the kind words, If your caliper piston is stuck there is only one thing to do and that is to replace it. In addition, excess heat from friction may have warped your rotor so you may want to replace that as well.
I think the main benefit of all the shared knowledge on RU-vid is to help the guy at home save money. When I was starting out as a young mechanic in the 1970s, I wish something like this had been available. I was lucky as I had an old-time mechanic take me under his wing in those days. Now that I am retired, I try to use tools that the average guy could afford own. I think it is comical how on some channels these guys pull out expensive diagnostic tools costing thousands of dollars. The only way guys like you and I would have access to such tools is to take the car into a repair shop. That's exactly what we are trying to avoid. LOL
@@richardspaulding5035 Hello again. The mounting screw for the disc to the hub had been broken. The hub was LOADED with CORROSION. Which caused quite a wobble in the rotor. The flex hose was still working. Thanks Again
Thanks for the kind words andrew; First time I have herd I speak well. A lot of my viewers love to poke fun at my Boston / Cape Cod accent. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andrewnorris1514 There could be any number of causes. Not being there to see the process there could have been mistakes made. The most common reason is if it was a rebuilt caliper it could be defective. I had a Honda last year I had to do the job twice for that reason. If you jack the wheel in question off the ground it should turn freely, If it does not take every thing apart and check the installation. The carrier bracket should have been replaced with the caliper. If it was not the pads may not fit Properly due to rust buildup or the glide pins could be stuck. I have videos on my channel on how to properly service the bracket. If it all looks good then it may indeed be a defective caliper. Keep in touch
@@richardspaulding5035 God Bless you I had a mechanic put Me in this situation. But I learned quite alot with the way you deliver the message . Thanks for helping guys save on there repairs. Unfortunately there are some bad players in this game
I was getting a burning smell on my front brakes after replacing the pads and rotors. I found a long stretch of road and did some braking. I pulled over and found the front rotors were getting blue and they were really hot. I jacked it up and the wheels were stuck. I ordered 2 calipers and and I'm getting an exchange for my pads and rotors. I inspected my old rotors and noticed some blue discoloration. I'm certain it's the calipers. Hope it fixes it
On rare occasions it can be the rubber hoses causing the problem. Sometimes the inner core of the hose can break. This will sometimes will result in a check valve effect as it will allow fluid to pass thru but not allow it to return to the master cylinder. A simple test is to open the bleeder nut. If the wheel suddenly frees up than it is the brake hose. let me know by all means how you make out. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching
I like to use the AutoZone brand brake cleaner. It is inexpensive and quite often they have it on sale. I like it better than some of the more expensive brands like CRC as it dries a lot quicker. Thanks for the kind words, the question and most of all thanks for watching my channel.
thanks for sharing Richard . question my calipar has 2 pistons so when I pushh one back the other one pushes out so do you think it is the brake hose the calipar is brand new
Sorry I took so long to get back to you. By now you most likely have resolved the issue. First of all, did you remove the master cylinder cap? It is indeed possible to have a restricted brake hose. Sometimes the inner core gets cracked or broken acting like a check valve. It will allow fluid out to apply the brakes but will not allow fluid to return. Try opening the bleeder nut see if that helps. There is a tool that can press both pistons at the same time. Check this video out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3mqn2DXyofM.html let me know the outcome
very helpful - thanks - what do you think about the age/mileage on calipers? I haven’t checked mine yet but my truck is 10 yrs old and 183k miles - I’m kinda planning on replacing all the calipers for now even though everything seems to be working ok (besides needing pads/rotors)
I am an old Yankee. We have a saying in these parts. "If it ain't broke don't try to fix it" (All kidding aside LOL) If the bleeder nuts will open, the pistons are moving freely, there are no leaks, and the dusts boot are not cracked or broken then I would say continue to use them as long as they are not badly rusted up. If you see any of the issues I just mentioned, then I would replace them. I would however consider flushing the system with new fluid with that many miles on the vehicle.
@@richardspaulding5035 Richard - thanks for getting back. wise words indeed. i will prob go ahead and have them on hand just in case but will see if I can reuse, that would be great. will add the flush to the job as well. thank you again!
I greased the slider pins and changed the brakes on 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 but brakes are binding and slowing the role of the truck, what could it be?
Most likely it is your caliper sticking and must be replaced. Another possible cause could be a bad rubber brake hose however this is far less common. To see if it is the hose loosen the bleeder, if the wheel frees up then it is the hose. Like I said it is most likely the caliper. Sometimes the piston can become corroded and pitted. as the caliper moves outward this corrosion can cause the caliper to get stuck. please let me know the outcome, good luck
I replaced everything besides the caliper, boots seem great etc but the caliper dosent allow the rotor to move? But then i let it go it goes but really wonky
It is difficult to diagnose a problem from afar especially when I was not there to see exactly what you did. Usually if the caliper will not allow the rotor to turn it is ether a bad caliper or a restricted brake hose. I wish I could be of more help. When you find out what the problem was by all means let me know. Thanks for watching.
It cost me $360 for parts and lubricants doing all 4 pads and rotors. Learnt as I went, bot hard other than the odd stripped or seized bolts. Always at least try DIY!!
My front brake pads haven’t worn out since I installed them about 1 year ago. Slides pins are good and pads move back and fourth freely. Could I have a bag caliper?
It’s been about a year and 3 month since installed new brake and rotors on all wheels. 4month ago my rear pad were close to metal and I replaced them with duralast gold then I checked the front pads and it still looked brand new. I checked the fronts yesterday and they still haven’t worn down at all. I am experiencing a some vibrating when braking at high speeds. Just recently when I come to a stop I would hear and feel a small grinding noise. I thought maybe the caliper isn’t giving enough pressure or the pistons in it are stuck. Any way I can test it ? Or should I not be worried.
@@johnz6957 Thanks for that information john. It is difficult to diagnose problems from afar. Try jacking each wheel after a ride. make sure each wheel is turning freely, Of course the car will need to be in neutral for the drive wheels. If a caliper is stuck you should also feel the heat radiating from within much more so than the other wheels. I have one of those automotive infrared thermometers. You can pick one up at AutoZone for about 30 dollars. When a car comes in for brakes that is the first thing I do is compare the temperature from each wheel. For normal driving they all should be around 100 degrees. Perhaps up to 130 degrees for the city. If your getting temps much more than that, say approaching 200 degrees or more then that most likely will be the wheel that has the problem. If all your wheels are turning freely and the rotors are cool then I would look elsewhere. Two words of caution! Do not touch the rotors directly as you could badly burn your fingers. Do not ignore the problem. Have a technician check your car out. Keep in touch and let me know what you find.
I have a small problem with my rear brakes, ive adjusted the handbrake internally as far as i can and yet when i drive car it doesnt slow down when i oull handbrake up, the rear calipers have a parking brake attachment (its a suzuki sx4 2010) my logic tells me this parking piston or mechanism must be seized, although i get disc wear and heat on the disc through normal braking so the piston must be moving. It is brand new discs and pads also and everything is fully greased eg. Etc Any ideas?
It just so happens I ran into a problem like this on a Honda a few weeks ago. In this instance there was a lever held onto the caliper with a nut. This lever is attached to the emergency brake cable on one end and a rod coming out of the caliper on the other. What happened was the spline on the end of the rod that comes out of the caliper was stripped. When I pulled the e brake handle it would move the lever but would not turn the rod that winds out the piston. Something to take a look at, let me know what you find. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching my channel.
@@richardspaulding5035 thanks richard i have got caliper off and the piston doesnt look too bad, the handbrake mechanim does seem to move the piston but only mm or so which seems reasonable but i think it should move more, i cant get the 17mm nut off to check behind it for rust or corrosion which is prob the problem
@@rodgercostello9814 That is a good idea to rebuild it yourself. These rebuilding houses usually don't replace the piston. They just clean it up leaving all the pits to get stuck again. I had to do a job 3 times because 2 AutoZone rebuilds failed after a few months. In both cases the rebuilder failed to replace the piston. Sure they covered the faulty part but not the labor !!
Most likely it is, however, there are other possible causes. A stuck caliper is the most common reason. The wobbling concerns me. If it only happens when you step on the brakes, it is most likely a warped rotor caused by friction because of the stuck caliper. If it is wobbling all the time, then you could have other problems. You need to get that checked out right away.
Just Did new Rotors and brake pads. Did the break in of the brakes, but I noticed that when going down slow, front does a noise as if the brakes slip. My question is, how free is the tire supposed to be?
With the car in neutral on a slight incline. When you take your foot off the brake the car should roll a little. If it does not, you may have a stuck caliper or a restricted brake hose. With the car in neutral and the wheel raised off the ground it should turn with minimal effort. As far as the noise I would have to hear it.
i just got a brake job done to unstick my pins and everything was good for a while , no scratching sounds or anything but then a month later that sound came back.. you have any idea what i might need fixing???
Thanks for the question Gain; Not being there it is difficult to diagnose a problem from afar. The simplest thing would be a rusty backing plate rubbing the rotor. One other thing you can do is without actually touching the rotor, (do not burn your fingers) after a trip see if you feel excessive heat coming from any of the wheels. They all should be a little warm but one may be more so than the others. There are many other things that can cause noise as you may need to take it to a shop. Keep in touch as to let me know what you find.
Without being there it is difficult to diagnose a problem from afar. If it was a one-time issue, I would not worry about it. If the car stalls out periodically then you could have any number of problems. Last time I had an issue like that come in the shop it was a bad camshaft sensor. Another time it was a faulty variable valve timing solenoid. Yet another time it was a bad cooling fan causing the car to overheat only when in stop and go traffic. One time on my personal vehicle I had placed my key fob on the seat and my dog sat on it causing the car to shut down then just as quickly restart on its own. I don't think simply holding your foot on the brakes caused the car to stall. There must be something else going on if it continues to behave like this. Sorry I cannot be of more help.
Thanks for the question Dereck; Yes most certainly. I had a pickup come in earlier his week with a stuck caliper. It turned out to be a restricted brake hose in that instance. I will be posting the video on that repair in a day or so as soon as I finish editing it. Most of the time the issue is with the caliper itself. To see if the caliper is sticking there should be heat emanating form the wheel in question, very much more so than the others. Don't touch it directly as you could burn your fingers! If you have a jack pump the brakes a few times in the driveway then carefully raise the vehicle to see if the wheel turns freely. you will need to put the car in neutral if it is one of the drive wheels. I most likely will be posting that video tomorrow. By all means stay in touch and let me know what you find. Thanks for watching my channel.
It certainly sounds like it. On rare occasions it can be a restricted brake hose not allowing the fluid to return. In any event the reason the car is shaking is because your rotor got overheated and warped from all the friction. You most likely will need the rotor, pads, caliper and I would replace the hose as well given that it is an inexpensive part. let me know how you make out.
Are the tire shops able to detect bad calipers? Why should I go BACK in and tell them to check that? Got front brakes done. Went back two weeks later because of the burning smell and noise. They said nothing was wrong and the will redo them. While getting them resurfaced they came back saying I need brake fluid changed and it might be my calipers. How did they not detect in the first place?
Most repair shops will automatically replace the calipers for precisely the reason you describe in you comment. They don't want to take any chance whatsoever that the customer returns with a sticking caliper. Besides if they replace the calipers, they get to charge the customer more money. Don't be too hard on them as by reusing your old calipers they were trying to save you money, a very rare thing these days. The fault you could find is they may not have paid close attention to your calipers as shown in my video. If it is a high production shop, they usually put the young guys on brakes and tires. Furthermore, they often put them under pressure to get the job in and out quickly. The purpose of my channel is to help the do-it-yourself guys working in their own driveway trying to save money. In doing the repair themselves they can decide what parts need to be replaced. In my videos I try to help them make sound decisions in that regard. Stay in touch, let me know what happens.
Thanks for the question. It depends on the plan you have. Most plans do not cover repairs that are considered normal wear. Brake pads and rotors fall into that category therefore would not be covered. However, calipers are not considered a normal wear item and may well be covered on some plans. Most plans have several pages of fine print laying out exactly what they do and do not cover.
My brake caliper was leaking fluid the other day. The car felt free for once. I think the brake rides. i was parking my car saw the spots, just as i parked i got a pressured pedal. How do i Prove that it is defective. Warranty claim? My goal is to replace them.
It should be easy, whatever is leaking need to be replaced. brake line, brake hose, or the caliper itself. Also it sounds like you have something binding. It could be a stuck caliper or the broken inner core of the brake hose preventing fluid from returning to the master. If it is under warranty the dealer should be able to figure out what is wrong. Most of them are up front about such things.
My car pulls left when braking. Both tires spin freely. I checked the right side brake hose with the bleeder screw and it’s a steady drip so not. Rotors and pads are good and
It is difficult to diagnose a problem from afar as there are a lot of unknowns. You use the term "both" a car has 4 wheels as perhaps there could be a problem with one of the other 2 wheels. It also could be a steering or suspension problem. Are there any other circumstances that cause the car to pull or wander. Does the car change direction on hard acceleration? Many shops offer free brake and suspension checks.
@@richardspaulding5035 thank you. it’s the front tires. It would pull left when braking, not sure what it would be. And then Trying to fix that i bled the front two tires and now it seems I lost the brakes for the front (pedal to floor). Going to just take to a shop instead
Help! I am down to my last nickles and dimes. An auto shop wants to charge me $219 for a single caliper, and $95 for a rotor. Labor $200. There's a brake leak too. Is he overcharging? He is telling me he's going to be my "guardian angel," which given these prices, has me second-guessing.
Sadly, that is about what you would expect to pay these days at a repair shop. My niece came to me with an estimate from one of those big box repair chains. She has a Chrysler minivan; it was close to $1000 for all four wheels. I don't know what kind of car you have but on average if you did the job yourself, the rotor would be about $50 the caliper about $80 and the pads about $35. there are lots of videos on RU-vid with instructions. Even if you have to purchase a few tools it is still cheaper than handing all that money to a repair shop.
It most likely are your ware indicators. These are thin metal strips attached to your pads that harmlessly come in contact with your rotor to make a very annoying noise. The purpose is to let you know it is time to do your brakes well before you get in a dangerous situation. They make this noise weather or not you apply the brakes. There could be other more serious causes but what I described is the most common. It just so happened a car came in the other day with exactly the same issue. He will be in next week to replace his pads. In the meantime, I bent the indicator away from his rotor so he will not get that very annoying noise. It is ok to do that because once the owner has been warned by the noise it has served its purpose. let me know if that is what was wrong with yours. Thanks for the question.
@@richardspaulding5035when I brake I hear a noise like its grinding. I already changed the rotors and brake pads but I try to turn its not freely. Its like a tougher pull is it my caliper? One mechanic looked at my caliper said it was frozen but didn’t do anything but greased it. Then another mechanic said one of your fronts is broken and need to get both of them replaced
@@traww6346 Having not been there to see what was done and how it was done makes it difficult to diagnose from afar. The grinding noise is very concerning. If it is a stuck caliper piston no grease in the world is going to free it up. A stuck caliper in itself would not cause a grinding noise. It could be any number of reasons for the grinding noise. The other thing is I don't know what you are referring to with the term fronts? That is not a term I have ever used in brake work.
@@traww6346 Not being there to see what you did and how you did it makes it very difficult to diagnose from a far. There are a number of reasons for a grinding noise and none of them are good. A sticking caliper would create heat friction but not necessarily a grinding noise. I fear you have other issues in addition to a sticking caliper. The other thing that confuses me is your mechanics use of the term "fronts", that is a term I have never used or heard of in brake work. As far as a frozen caliper there are 3 most likely reasons. A stuck piston, frozen glide pins, or a restricted brake hose. If it is frozen glide pins, they need to be removed cleaned and lubricated. Sounds like your mechanic may have already done that. If it is a stuck piston the caliper must be replaced or rebuilt. To tell if it is a restricted hose simply loosen the bleeder nut, if the wheel suddenly frees up then replace the hose and bleed the system. Let me know what you find out. I wish I could be of more help.
Spraying that rotor with that stuff is a scam it's just extra money for them. I wash my car at the car wash and clean all my rotors and under the engine and under the car , and drive down roads lmao contaminated, I drive thru mud and filthy oil splashes. I've never had a problem with any of these finger prints . Ha, like as if. Some things said are a joke passed down to the people that think cars still have blinker fluid. It's a joke..
Thanks for your comments, I think the point I was trying to make is that a coating of oil is put on the rotor by the manufacturer to prevent rust. this coating must be cleaned before instillation.
LOL, your not the first to mention that. I am a mechanic, not a professional speaker. This video was one of my earlier efforts. I think I have been doing better off late. Thanks for the observation and the comment.
