Cheers Derek. I read this article in the mag when it arrived. This was the way we had always done it trying to make sure the end of the hose was squarely cut and if you cannot find the isolotor getting a good shock off the ignition ( ask the apprentice to hold it) no seriously that is frowned on now. Ordered my test point as soon I finished watching this video
A lot of cookers come with a working pressure extended injector on the grill or oven. Great for doing hobs though. Thanks for taking the time to make the video 👍
Derek, i use that exact same manometer you have. Probably the most reliable one ive ever used. Just buy a new one every year for calibration and for price, its a steal
Thank you for this video. I am dealing with a gas range and no dam port after the gas regulator on the range. And I don't know reg bad or malfunctioning oven burner. So I ordered two of those test adapters, one for backup. Again thank you.
Hi, shouldn't be 3 burners lit and 1 under test? I saw you've done it with 2 burners lit the third on under test and 4th off. Did I never get it right?
We test from the meter with three burners lit. By testing from the injector direct, effectively there are three burners using gas, it’s just that only two of them are actually lit.
i once did that test over the injector using the rubber hose and the chap who was testing me told me that it wasnt a proper way for testing inlet pressures.so whats changed?
It’s testing operation pressure not inlet because it’s after the gas tap. It’s always been done like this as long as I have been in gas which is a long time now I guess it’s just been brought out because engineers must be turning appliances off because of no test point when they shouldn’t be doing.
@@tomkatgastraining I'll bring this up next year at the center.ive my renewals in around 10 months. I'm talking nearly 10 years ago now when I got told I couldn't do it like that. Interesting to see what he says when I bring it up.
Check it the good old fashioned way. Unscrew the jet, turn cooker knob to minimum, light the gas and turn knob to max. Flame should be at least 1000mm high.
if there is an FSD then you would have to hold down the control knob of the burner you are using to connect the manometer to this is necessary to allow the gas to go into the manometer.
lpg. no unburned being leaked. is that why they brought this in? or did someone really put themself on fire?............. why are you only using 2 burners? i always tested with 3 on and 4rth as test point? with all appliances running at max if there was no external test point. anyway im happy if im wrong i overkilled it. sorry don't do ebay
Working pressure at the meter is yes 3 biggest rings running I had 2 running and used the 3rd to get the readings as the manufacturers don’t give the pressure readings. Some cooker manufacturers only require one ring running while you are taking the readings others 2. As the technician bulletin said the rings running will depend on the cooker manufacturers. Also didn’t want to set myself on fire while doing it 😜
im a dumbass and cant spell.. we test at the applance right? the whole point is that all appliances have enough gas to work at their air gas mixtures right? third ring was static right?
@@tomkatgastraining you degress my point was you should have had three rings burning. right? and all appliences running at max. and then used a test point be it at the nipple or on the pipework............ i'll go read up. i know i'm probably wrong. you lot run a gas place in manchester that accredits people. buy better glass manomiters? they have a cross you have at the bottom that stabalizes the u gauge. wind blew mine over once. cost me a replacement glass tube........ and it doesnt need calibrating. thank you for your uploads as always.
@@markchristohperowen6806 because of the way meters and pipes are sized you don’t have to have all the other appliances running at the same time it now says to have a maximum of 3.5 m3 and a minimum of 0.5m3 running when testing at the meter. So unless you have concerns about an appliance you need to check the pipe sizing and operation. So when testing a cooker you have the 3 biggest rings running and check at the meter you have 21mbs +/- 2 mbrs no need to have all the others running unless you think the pipe is undersized then you put the smallest cooker ring on low then turn on the boiler at max and see if it affects the safe operation of the appliances ie incomplete combustion or flame going out. I hope that answers your questions
Don't think I've had cause to criticise you before, but, and Don't see this as a negative comment. Firstly, attempting to attach a uguage hose to an injector is ABSOLUTELY a NO DO!! Best test nipple is as used by Calor engineers, but the one you used is fine, just nip it up or use gas tape to ensure finger tight leak free. Calor nipple has neoprene washer, so is only designed for minimal tightening. If testing hob only, testing with three burners lit at full rate is the requirement,which leaves the fourth and ideally the smallest available for fitting the adaptor. Where a fifth burner, (eg Wok burner) or even more then obviously to arrive at an accurate pressure drop, this needs to be taken I to consideration. With regard to the usual fith burner on hobs, the pressure drop will often surprise. With cookers the effect ovens/ grills have on pressure drops also needs to be considered. With regard to LPG, if no meter is installed, usual on single dwellings, there will always, or should be an outlet test point. To quote Mikey Pipes ( check out his utube channel, it's great) if you ain't testing, your guessing. Just a little extra advice for anyone thinking of getting into LPG, orange rubber hoses quickly get devoured by the Gas.
@@tomkatgastraining I've watched the video twice since your response, and have to say if I where a trainee or inexperienced in the industry, I would be confused. TB161 ,in my humble opinion, and I've just read it again, it's very badly presented. Regardless of one's interpretation of TB161, I stand by my way of confirming, lack of gas rating ability withstanding, is a safer and more reliable way confirming compliance. Testing working pressure on a cooker with two burners operating doesn't cut it for me. Cooking appliances have to operate, as with all appliances as designed. Please read my comments again, and if you conclude I'm missing something, I'm always open to discussion.
@@johnward5006 like I said in the video if I had used all for rings doing the test on the cookers injector I would probably set myself on fire. Yes you are correct I should have used 3 rings on doing the test but I know some cookers only say use one other ring and others say 2 like I did. At the end of the day again like I say in the video it’s not needed for Nat gas most of the time as you can do working pressure at the meter gas rate and put other appliances on to test the flame picture. Lpg though is a different matter. Sorry I disappointed you with this video but it was only for make engineers aware of the tb and to get over to trainees that it can be dangerous if you use a u gauge or a small injector. I will try harder next time 😋
Understand absolutely Derek, will speak to Gas Safe after Easter for clarification. Again Gas Safe cover their rear ends with such poor quality offerings. If I'd written this bulletin, I'd make it clear that pressure loss and flame picture and if possible Gas rating would be mandatory. To suggest appliance working pressure testing needs clarification is a sad reflection on a highly regulated industry. When I first embarked on LPG training in 1968, Test nipples were the norm Any Gas engineer who doesn't have an injector adaptor is categorically not being serious.
I've never seen in 23 years no meter on a natural gas supply. I see your trying to hint at LPG but I'm not aiming at that because that has no relevance to me or my work. One time you shear the injector and I've seen it happen, you're standing to the cost of a new cooker simple as.
I’m on a contract where they’ve replaced electric cookers with gas cookers and just tee’d off the gas pipe for the boiler, the gas cooker gas rates fine but when I test the inlet pressure with the boiler running it’s a fail. So In my opinion some situations require this test.
