How to Test a Regulator Rectifier - They're Not all the Same! | 3 Phase Rectifier Test | Partzilla 

You probably have a MOSFET regulator. The MOSFET regulator has approx. 0.500 on one side and approx. 0.100 on the other. And that's okay.

What year bro ? My 14 is like draining the hell out the battery. The yuasa one that came with it progressively got harder to start and the. Eventually would power dash and lights but wouldn’t turn over the engine

@@rollathegawdchild4339 them bikes u have to always have bike on a Battery tender . It requires a good crank. My friend always has issues when he does not use his bike for few weeks

Why so lucky you ever priced one of those alternators?🤔

Glad it was helpful!

My long experience tells me that the voltage regulator may be correct, but that something else affects the result. And even when it comes to overcharging the battery. The plus and minus connections of the regulator play an important role if sufficient charging voltage is not achieved, which for a classic lead battery is 13.9 to 14.4 VDC. Also, too low a voltage can cause a malfunction of the battery, the fuel pump or the installation of additional load.

Did you ever get an answer to this question? I have a Honda Interstate and it reads similar to yours.

The MOSFET regulator has approx. 0.500 on one side and approx. 0.100 on the other. And that's okay.

I wondered the same thing about why not just test the output to see if it's putting out 12.8-14.3 dc volts or whatever. I mean it's interesting to figure out if a diode or diodes went bad or if it's the regulator portion that went bad but since the whole thing is a single replaceable unit, it either works or it doesn't work. If the input is good and the output is bad then the RR is bad, so replace the RR. Maybe there is a reason you can't test it that way but I can't think of what that reason might be. 🤔🤔🤔

Since no one got back to you I thought I would answer your question. To be frank as a M/C tech we really don't have this type of network like the Auto side. I came from the Auto side 30 + years ago and still play in it from time to time , so I know exactly what your talking about. There are some places you will find on the net for a certain bike say like the charging system on any VFR750/800. They eat RR for lunch all day every day. At the race track you might find a tech thats willing to shoot the shit with you for few mins until he has to get back to work but the bike world is just not as complex as the car industry. Most shops will have one MAYBE two techs that have an actual education in motorcycles be it MMI in Orlando FL or the few others out there. The schools cost a fortune, when you get out you basically have a masters degree in motorcycles mechanics and engineering etc. If you chose to take the advanced courses that just adds up like a doctorate degree. All this in less than 2 years on avg. Even then with all that education and experience the pay isn't very good no matter how long one has been turning wrenches. Now that Falicn is basically gone even race motor builders are going to have problems getting things done. If you specialize in something like race motor building or suspension rebuilds and setups you can make a little more but unlike cars bikes are a small portion of public. A tech in the motorcycle industry basically is there because he/she has a passion for it. That said in the US the riding public is only 8% and they call that an all time high.. Where as most everyone here in the US has a car. The problem is the car industry has killed itself by making their cars impossible to work on without all the scan gear. Sure one can pick up a OB2 reader but that's just not the same as being able to watch say injectors voltage change as they open and close, record that data and then play it back to see if there was a difference in any of the injectors that would relate to the problem. So your backyard mechanic is now left in the woods where with Bikes just as I said are not that complex yet. Where your young guy could or can still work on a bike and actually enjoy it instead of throwing that $4500 snap-on scanner through the car window when he's not trained enough to even know what to look for. Bikes are just more fun but there isn't the amount of people out there riding like there are car guys. Plus there's a generation change as well. You would be hard pressed to find alot of millennials riding or hell even owning a car . Hell much less even remotely interested in working on them. To most they just want to get from point A to B where Car guys and Motorcycles don't really care WHERE we are going as long as we are on the bike riding. So there ya go, I hope that helped out somehow . If your an uncle then please get them into mechanics and riding , we need new blood. Hell I will even say this and I'm sure I will get flamed for it but, we need kids with fire in their eyes and passion!!! Its almost like they have been drugged out of wanting to experience anything in this life vs wanting to try everything they can before they leave this place. Anyway take Care Mark... Cas...

@@casperi2 I'm here 2 years later saying thanks! Your take on this is spot on.

Yea cheers mate , this 2 years after you posted was sort of helpful , because Ive wondered at times the very same thing .. maybe one day , we’ll find out .

But then we get a slightly higher temperature in the stator of the generator. Is it?

If ALL the other tests show open, then yes, it's probably bad.

The reverse bias diode should show on open loop as it's function is to only let current flow in one direction.

Hi, I have the same values ​​as you. So is it ok or bad??? thank you for answer

Did you ever replace your rectifier? Or fix the issue ? My 03 cbr600rr has similar problems and I do believe its the rectifier getting to hot.

Did you confirm you're getting spark?

The Fluke 233 has two functions on that dial position. Capacitance *and* diode test. If you zoom in, you can see the diode test symbol just to the right of the capacitance symbol.

@@PartzillaParts 🏁