How to Test and Confirm if the Starter is bad on a Nissan Armada or Nissan Titan. 

Make sure your security light is off on the cluster when you are trying to start it.

@@737mechanic I couldn't see the security light or the dash since I was in the engine bay, but I ended up replacing the ignition relay (Nissan Part #284B7-CW29E), and from the testing I did this evening, it started first crank each time. I'll know better in the next day or two if that was my problem since occasionally, the car would start first try a few times in a row, but then sometimes it took 2-20 key turns for it to try to start. The dealership had the relays for $4.23 a piece. I bought 2. 😁All I do know is that I would have spent the day on the starter, and not replaced the $4.23 relay first, if it weren't for your video.

@@mrupsidedownshortswhat year armada do you have?

Thank you buddy.

Was it your starter?

I gotta say, i watched many videos n check off everything in the list untill i saw your video and helped me with my titan start back up. Very different and very helpful

If you turn the key and the starter doesn't turn but you jumper it like the video and the starter turns then the starter is fine and I would look at the ignition switch, starter relay, or wiring.

Usually if the clicking is coming from the starter that means the starter solenoid is going bad so more than likely if you did this test you would have the power at the connector like you should and and if the starter is clicking the starter would need to be changed.

@@737mechanic Thanks so much for your swift reply!

@@737mechanic I have 'clicking' when I turn the ignition to the start position. Usually a few times before the starter will crank the engine and it starts. Sometimes it cranks and fires up first try. Now I've been trying 30 minutes and just getting the 'click' with no crank. I figure it's the starter solenoid. Is there anyway to test the solenoid, clean the contacts, or change JUST the solenoid, since the starter motor is good?

​@@nativewarrior5052did you figure it out ?

The relay is integrated into the IPDM at the right rear of the engine compartment. There is also a 40A fusible link in the same area.

I would need to hear it to help you out.

@@737mechanic i took a video of doing this trick and have the same pro is there a way i can send you a video?

@@tonyruiz1829 If it is small enough you can email it to me at mechanic737@hotmail.com

if they have confirmed the battery is good and fully charged then either a bad starter or a possible bad connection, if it is a bad connection then you may have to pull the intake in order to check the connections at the starter.

@@737mechanic thank you for your reply.

Do the check like the video shows and if it test good at the connector replace the starter, if it doesn't test good meaning you are not getting power to the connector when you turn the key then you have a problem somewhere else, could be the starter relay, ignition switch, or bad connection somewhere.

I'm having the same issues with my 2010 Nissan Armada

@@mrmic7065 fortunately for mine it was the starter relay. I pulled the relay out and cleaned the contacts and it started right up. I bought a replacement relay on Amazon just in case but it hasn’t ever happened again.

My 07’ Titan does that also! I have to turn the key on and off about 7-10 times. Gonna try this and see if that works.

I'm having the same problem with my 2012 armada. Sometimes it starts right up other times. It takes 5, 6, or 7 times to start.

Could be immobilizer, could be the ignition switch, could be the wiring, could be the starter. See if it has any codes.

It was around a 14 gauge wire I made up years ago.

I have same thing.. Before I try to replace my starter. I am not 100 percent sure that is what it is. for over a year I been having some problems with my 06 starting. I turn the key and nothing but the lights on dash and a click from the relay happen. I would wiggle the key some and try again and it would start. I was thinking its the ignition cylinder because I sprayed lube in it and would start. Well, until it wouldn't. Then thought it was the ignition switch on the back side (white plastic part with the plug). Changed it and truck started about 8 times luckily enough to get back home. Now nothing again!!! Just the same lights on dash and I hear the relay click. HELP..

Check out this video also. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-76je4uOJs-M.html I used my jumper cables (black side only) and connected one end to the negative battery terminal and the other end to the engine block ground (last connection on ground cable). Truck fired right up. Thanks for teaching me something new 737!

I am not sure.

Hard to tell without catching it in the act and checking a few things. It could be the ignition switch, starter, relay, or simply a bad connection.

@@737mechanic gotcha thanks for the reply

If you turn the key to the run position and jumper the connector and it starts you should be good to drive it home.

@@737mechanic it didn't make any noise for some reason. Was worried I'd fry the computer or a module so didnt try again...might try again in few hrs

@@concernedcitizen7888 You won't fry a computer. If you have it grounded and are on the side coming from the ignition switch and hit the key you might pop a fuse but you won't fry a computer.

You were right! Started with hot wire. Didn't have to tow it. Driving home now. Next tasks is to fugure out what's causing the issue.

You have a heck of a RU-vid channel. Saved me $1000+ on not having to change the starter when a mechanic said that the starter was 100% the issue. I've since determined it is NOT an electrical issue but mechanical one - when I press gear selector far forward it will crank (SUV has safety & won't start unless it thinks it is in park). Ever see that? Pretty sure it's the transmission cable - just got one at Nissan parts. Trying to figure out how to replace it. Only could find 1 small RU-vid video on it but not very descriptive. If you were in Austin I'd take it to you. Thanks for advice & great channel...

I have the D8BT.

Yes, the ignition key is off, if you do leave the key in the on position the engine will start if the starter cranks. If the ignition switch is off the engine should crank if you jump power to the starter like I showed in the video.

@@737mechanic thank you! I’m a novice when it comes to mechanical work but I’m gonna try this before I waste a lot of money changing out the starter.

It sounds like the starter is probably fine. I would look for a parasitic drain when the vehicle is off.

@@737mechanic It’s my wife’s truck so I decided to drive it for a few days while watching the voltmeter. It fluctuates between 13 and 15 volts. Meaning that it’s either at 13 or 15 while the vehicle is running. This is making me think that the alternator is getting bad information intermittently and not fully charging the battery

@@cnoodle7650 If it is between 13 and 15 it is charging the battery. I still bet you have something draining the battery when the vehicle is off.

If your immobilizer light is on then that is your problem but if the light is off it is NOT your problem.

@@737mechanic Thank you for the quick reply. I guess that goes for keyless ignition too. Which is something I have no use for. I never understood the "benefit" of not turning a key in the ignition. Thanks again. Mark

Probably not. Not sure.

Thanks

I am in Rockwall Tx

@@737mechanic mine makes a click and on the second try it starts sometimes. It happens occasionally. What do you think the problem is ?

@@joelviramontes105 Could be the starter solenoid or the relay. The relay is easy to change and would be the first thing to check.

@@737mechanic what area is those parts located ?

It should if it is the same engine.

@@737mechanic 5.6

No, it is only 12 volts when you turn the key to engage the starter. If the test light lights then you are getting power to the starter which would indicate the starter itself was bad.

Test light does not light up when the switch is on or off I can't seem to find the problem could it be the IPM box because I watch your video I'm not getting any power to the solenoid any idea

Any idea

Yes. But there is still a possibility that it could make a noise but still not turn the engine over. A good starter will crank the engine when you jumper that wire.

@@737mechanic thank you so much for answering my question. My truck is currently not starting and I’m down to the starter after replacing the battery and checking a few other things. But I want to be sure that this is the problem before I get myself into the mess of replacing it. I’m going to try this test tomorrow when my cables arrive to see if the starter tries to crank the engine. Thank a million for posting this video, and for answering my question.

More than likely, yes.

@@737mechanic new starter same issue. Just loud click while testing before intake reinstall

@@Dice504dt9 is it the starter that is clicking? Make sure the engine to chassis ground is good.

@@737mechanic yes its coming from starter solenoid

@@Dice504dt9 Make sure the big cable has 12 volts to it. The is a fusible link in that cable in the fusible link box on the right side of the engine compartment. The right side is as though you are sitting in the seat. Make sure that the fusible link it good.

1.9 hours

@@737mechanic thanks

Make sure the battery is strong enough. Now that it is getting cooler this is when weak batteries start showing themselves.

@@737mechanic thank you for the reply. It's actually a new battery.

@@Jackmanis Ok then if the clicking is actually coming from the starter and not the starter relay in the junction box then the starter is bad.

@@737mechanic got it. Ive got 180k on the truck. Its probably due. Thanks again.

@@Jackmanis It sounds like the starter solenoid is carboned up and on cars that you can get the starter you could pound on the starter while trying to crank it and sometimes get it to turn over.

The immobilizer is the antitheft system that prevents the engine from starting if the key doesn't match.

I tried looking thru your channel but couldn't find the immobilizer video. Do you have a link for that video? Thanks

Make sure the battery cables have a good connection and if so the the starter is probably bad.

@@737mechanic I’m sure it’s the starter. I noticed the slower starts the past few months. Battery checked out good, car won’t crank even with a jumper

Dallas area.

@@737mechanic well crap I'm in East, TN🤦

@@josemahabirsingh5420 Sorry buddy.

Or you know the ignition switch, wiring, relay, immobilizer, or even battery could be bad. The last thing you want it to pull the intake and replace the starter only to find out the starter still doesn't work and it was the relay with is easy and cheap to replace, or wiring, ignition switch or immobilizer..

So if it is an intermittent problem you need to have a jumper wire ready so when it doesn't start then unplug that wire and jumper it to see if it will crank. If it doesn't then it is the starter, if it does then plug the wire back together and see if it starts, and if it still doesn't then you have a relay or wiring problem.

same problem with me- cleaned enginge side of negative and cleaned battery side both and new battery , problem solved