Thanks for this video,helped me install my sending unit perfectly.I think you should make another video ,detailed in the wiring the sender to the gauge and to ignition etc,thats where I'm lost,I suck at anything electrical,there's no good videos on this,you could do a good job,at it.
you measured incorrectly for your tank it should have been 7 13/16 or 198mm. not 7 3/16. also you forgot to mention the 5/16 less than proper arm length which is what gives you the emergency gas when gauge reads empty. but a fair video anyway.
I'm going to try this today. Is it OK to leave that much (looks about 1/4") of play on float between stoppers? Why would you want it to slide back and forth?
I am finding that not all fuel gauges are the same and you need to match a sending unit with the gauge. With a broken sending unit how do you know which one to buy to match your dash gauge OHMS RANGE?
When I turn the key, the fuel gauge shows full, when I turn the ignition off, it shows empty. Tested sensor with measuring instrument it has the correct Ohm value. It is both a wema and a wema instrument. Has worked before and also not replaced anything previously. When I disconnect the sensor's 2 cables it still shows full. what do you think is wrong then?
Being I knew nothing about this, I cleaned up the 2 connection points with 00 steel wool (make sure you leave no strings) reconnected and voila ! Had a gas gage again. Makes me feel much better. Thanks for the vid!
@@BigIslandMNMinnetonka What you have effectively done is provide yourself with some "emergency" gas. Your gauge will read empty but you'll still have 5/8" of gas left in your tank. I like it. :-) Great video.
Are all the holes the same?? Mine just broken the wire off in the tank. It also seemed that my gauge was off by a half tank. I did touch the wire back to the point and my gauge did move. I which is the longest lasting gauge available. I know fuel is everyone's best friend
I need help with mine well you see the thing that you replace well I don’t think mine is working because I took both original tanks out and my dad bot me a new aluminum tank for the bed and it had that float think like your’s but this new tank of mine has ouly one wire plug on it and yours was 2 but my old tanks had 3 wires plugged into it so witch wires do I use for this new tank I have 3 opinions a red a black and the blue wire has power so I tried hooking up all 3 with no response but blue wire with power makes the fuel gage go up to full no matter if the float is up or down I need so help
Something that I haven't seen covered is that older cars may have a copper float which can leak. If it fills with fuel it will sink and always read empty.
Thank you but - it was 7 and 13/16 not 7 and 3/16, One half inch of swing cut off the sender. Will probably make readings at full and empty a little off, measure 2x cut once.
Great video. I would caution anyone doing this to not use power tools when unscrewing the sender....huge fire hazard. Fuel vapors can ignite from the sparks on the drill bushing.
People don't realize how volatile gasoline vapor is. That's the reason you use diesel or kerosene to light brush piles and the like. They are not as flammable. In fact fairly hard to ignite. You see idiots blow themselves up or get severely burned when they use gasoline to start fires.
You aren't testing you're replacing. Surely you test before you buy anew one. If the new sender still gives the same as the old one you've just wasted money
Hi my tank is leaking gasoline from where the tap where where the part at , how can I fix the leak it’s just a little bit but I don’t wanna use like that
your videos are really helpful. thanks. when i winterized my boat last year, i used the antifreeze and ran it through the entire system like you showed in your video. my boat started up on the first shot this spring. my question is, when i ran the boat with the ear muffs with the water, i noticed an oily chemical mixed in with the water coming from the exhaust. is that the residual antifreeze that was in the system. thanks. the boat ran great on the lake. its a 97 bayliner capri classic 2050. merc,350
Measure twice, cut once.... the book said 7-13/16 and you cut it 7-3/16... your tank was just over half full, and your gauge is reading 3/4 full.. that 1/2 inch you fucked up on is throwing your gauge off.. but its close.. and it will work...
I cut mine short! Is it screwed? My tank is 12” deep and I measured the arm to make sure it could reach the bottom and top having 12” of travel. But I cut it to like 6” (6” up and 6” down) I should be fine right?
Big Island MN yea that was my logic. I would rather play it on the safe side and show empty earlier than not. I only have about 1” of gas left out of my 12” deep tank. So it’s not wrong I’m pretty empty. Like you said I’ll just have to find out on my next full up.
I'd add that many many times with boat electronics the problem is nothing more than a bad connection due to corrosion, before you bought a new sender you should have removed the old one, cleaned the connections, checked the wiper are to make sure it was in contact with the resistive wire then lifted and lowered the float with the key on and see if it starts working. Most times it does, other than a bad connection or mechanical damage the only thing that goes wrong that isn't easy to fix is the float might sink.
@@BigIslandMNMinnetonka unfortunately after a long paddle to the shore whilst avoiding a barge or two I had plenty of time to troubleshoot the issue while I waited for my buddy to go get a jug of fuel....
I put mine and the gasket didn’t seal right..... gas pours out no matter how tight or loose I tighten the sender. It never leaked with the old unit on... Any suggestions on what type of sealant I can use that the gas won’t eat up????
It's supposed to, the boat is moving. Cars would do that too, but they're digital and have circuitry delays built in so that they don't move around every time you take a turn.
