I used to own a Model Y. There is a company called Ohmmu they make lithium battery for Tesla's. They are super light weight is 9 pounds compared to the 32 pound lead acid battery in the Rav4. The Ohmmu battery works on most cars, if your trying to save weight then I would recommend the Ohmmu battery. I installed it on my Rav4 Prime.
I was thinking ... the 12 Volt battery in the rear is only for the Computer/Systems. So you only need maybe a 12Volt cordless power tool battery and adapter to get you out of trouble after leaving your car in an Airport carpark for a month, as an example. And Not a 3L cranking battery booster that I was looking at ?...
Thank you thats exactly what I was looking for!!! I received my XSE prime in fall 2020, Ive had problems with many error messages that were all causes by a low voltage in the trunk battery. I think the initial voltage was very low so when the cold weather came, it dropped below 12V.
I used to have a toyota c hr and it always didnt start. changed it to a rav 4 phev. Hopefully wont have too much trouble. I use the hybrid system to charge up the 12 v battery by leaving the car in the ready position for 30 mins every now and then. Great info Thanks
Thanks for watching and for your comment. Glad to see you got the hang of the hybrid system, it's not obvious when you've never owned a hybrid system in the past. 👍🏽
Hello, Thank You For Noticing me about NOCO Booster Plus Ultrasafe Jump GB40 .I am impressed. Smart. Someday, I would buy it anytime. It is Whatever I am looking For. Cool. 👍👊❤️❤️❤️❤️
Withkn the manual it recommends not charging the battery while it's still hooked up in the car. It also recommends not jumping (boosting) other vehicles. Both of these is because of the hybrid system.
Thanks for the decent explanation. Is it safe to connect both charger probes to the battery itself? Shouldn’t the positive probe be connected to the battery and the negative be connected to the body (ground)? I suppose it would mitigate any risks to the electronics and the charger controller within the computer.
Hey that’s really good video. I learned here about the battery heating unit. My question is can e charge the 12v battery from the same place you’re showing where to boost the car, should be the same circuit if i get readings on the multimeter when the car is off right?
Excellent video. I got a Rav4 Prime a few months ago and have a question, if you are still monitoring comments to this video. This is really important to avoid the situation below. Is there a warning saying the 12V battery is low? Here is the warning we recently got. My wife drove to the store (a few minutes away); things seemed OK and she did not notice any warnings, certainly nothing warning of what happened next. 15 minutes later she started the car and got a message saying ‘Hybrid System Malfunction Go to Toyota Dealer Immediately’. There was also a less urgent message saying something to the effect of check engine light was on and to go for service. While the ICE engine started, the infotainment system and the dashboard were blank (except for the error message), the headlights were off and turn signals did not operate. The car did drive and she got home. It was a couple hours before I could check it out. I took the car for a spin and though the car said it was in EV mode, it appeared to be driving exclusively in petro mode - virtually no power draw from the battery and it was actually slowing charging the traction battery. I talked to Toyota, then called for a tow. By the time I had the tow lined up all the warning signals had gone. As I was going to the town where the dealer is located in a couple days (250km round trip) I decided I would just drive it there. Over the next two days the car progressed in EV mode from driving as a pure petro car, to a hybrid to an EV. When I did get to the dealer the error codes stored were inconclusive. They were consistent with the 12V battery getting too low in charge and speculation was we were doing too many short trips. While I have generally been pretty impressed with this car, I was not at all happy about this situation. It is hard to understand why there was no warning about the battery level that could cause a major malfunction or that such an ‘advanced’ car could not use and 18kWh battery to make sure a puny 50Wh (or less) battery stays in its operating zone.
good video but you made the same error I did , the 12.8 volts will allways read around 12,15 v as it did in my Lexus ,you need to measure that volts OFF LOAD!! ,when you open any door on a modern car all the computers power up so by the time you connect that meter on battery with 2 to 4 amps going out to the computers , the voltage will have dropped to the 12,2volts or so ,test needs to be done when vehicle has been put to sleep or battery neg disconnected , hope this helps ,I verified mine using official toyota procedure
Excellent video. Thanks. Advice here that I haven't found elsewhere. Also thanks for giving the schedule of your video so that we can jump to the bit we need. Why don't others do this!!? I wasn't sure about your "boost" advice at the end though. Do you mean "boost" to be using another car to help start your car, which we call "jump start" in the UK? Thanks.
Thanks for watching and for your comment. Yes! We alternate those here: Jump start, boost etc.. Maybe it started with the fact that we use "boosterpacks" ?🤔
I think the 12 volt battery charges when the car is in EV ready mode. If you are worried about the level of charge in the 12 volt battery can't you just turn on the car in EV ready mode and leave it parked. I think it will charge the 12 volt battery and turn itself off after one hour.
You definitely can. The DC-DC converter charges the 12V in Ready Mode, but if you dont want to leave your car turned on, a smart charger is the way to go.
@@EVDude I do this once or twice per week while it is parked in my garage. I am not sure home much charge is gained since the car turns itself off after one hour You might want to do a video explaining this and letting us know it how much charge is gained after one hour. Great video by the way.
Great video! I am wondering about using 12v cooler in the back of the R4P while it is being plugged in at work (level 2 charger). I have heard 2 different things from toyota regarding which battery the 12v takes its power from. If I run the freezer while plugged in to a level 2 charge all day will I run into any problems? Hoping you can share some insight!
Be advised that those battery boosters should not be charged and discharged under freezing conditions. So if you leave the item in your car during winter and the unit is at -1 C or lower... the item will work but you will damage the cells in it... unless you being the unit the a higher temp first
Thank you for this awesome video. My SE prime is still in the waiting since March this year. Was told a few days ago that the wait will continue probably deep into 2022. I would love to see more videos on the winter performance and the EV range in the frigid cold minus temperatures, or how much cold will affect the EV range...With sold state battery becoming a reality, imagine if Toyota upgraded all Rav4 Prime batteries free of charge (too much dreaming I guess lol)...
Thanks for watching. EV range is slightly affected in cold weather, I made a video of my impressions after 5 months of using the PRIME (went through a winter) : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--6pluFTsFAg.html
Hi i have toyota camry hybrid 2022 2.5 and my 12v battery is dead.Because its in garage do you think i can just take battery out and charge with charger designed for it?
Thanks so much for posting these videos - I’m expecting my Prime next week. How about one on servicing the filter for the big battery ventilation system?
Hi there, Great video! One thing that puzzles me is how the car gets started, since there is no trad starter, nor does the 12V-batt start it. What does start it then?
First the electric motor get started (from the electric power provided to the inverter by the big li-ion batterie), and then this one will start the gasoline motor. I'm not an expert but that's what I undersstood from videos here on youtube. Other car brand may use a different system. Hope that help
I don't believe you need to upgrade it. The battery is not used to start the engine, it's just there to turn on electric systems. So I'm pretty sure it'll be good for several years without issues if it's not being drained by excessive usage on "accessory mode" instead of "ready mode".
Thank you for this very insightful video! I noticed you use the NOCO GB40 - are the alligator clips long enough to reach the + and - in the front of the vehicle? I have a similar booster but the cables are too short. Wondering if I could just boost by connecting directly to the 12v battery in the trunk..
Excellent question. Definitely too long of distance separating + and - terminals in front. Wonder what the Prime engineers were thinking. Especially for those teeny portable amazing boosters. However, if you go old school with the 6 - 10 - 12 foot long booster cables to receive a boost from someone else, it'll obviously work.
@@nickzourikian4555 that's a good solution for sure. I think I remember reading that you can boost from the battery directly in the trunk (after removing the inner panel).
My car was delivered with a low battery to begin with, I also added a dashcam camera which has a cutoff to 12.4V as it records even when it's parked. I've driven the car for 9000 km now and haven't had any issues.
Thanks again for this video, it helps to get a better understanding on how to charge and maintain the battery in these types of vehicle. Good to mention not to boost other vehicle, its all about education. Also help to know about the battery location and if a boost is required on these vehicle, the recommendation to do it under the hood.
Hi, thanks for watching. As for the hitch, it's a personal preference. I opted for the OEM hitch because it has a higher clearance than most aftermarket ones and it is attached directly to the bumper, which in itself makes it very strongly attached. But if you're looking budget wise, an aftermarket one will do the job.
Hey! Yes I have, but instead of using the ground I mentionned on the video, I used a closer ground as the cable isn't long enough, worked like a charm.
Great video. Can you use the booster charger on the rav4 12v battery as well? If so connected to the front or direct on the battery in rear of car? The alligator leads on most booster chargers look a bit short to use in the front fuse positive and negative point on engine block point in the rav4 hybrid. Thanks
Yes, you can definitely use them on the battery or at the front (where a dedicated terminal is available). But as you mentionned, these boosters have short cables so the easier way might be directly on the battery.
@@EVDude thanks for this information and quick reply. Also, interested to know your reason for a 2amp charger for the rav 12v battery over say a 5 or higher? I think I missed the explanation in the video. Thanks heaps mate.
Hmmm.. interesting... I will check with my DC amp meter to check to nominal amperage being sent to the 12 volt battery when charging. That could help determine an inverter size that would be in line so to not draw more than what is being pumped in.
Given that I will go away for about three months , what do you recommend to charge the battery so that I would not get a flat battery after returning 3 months away. Or should I get charger and charge the battery throughout the three months ? When we say charge the battery - which one are we refering to the 12 v battery inverter or the battery behind at the boot?
I would suggest leaving you hybrid battery at 50%. As for your 12V battery, I would connect a trickle charger on it if you have one or else I would simply disconnect the battery from the car.
@@EVDude thanks for your response.How do I leave the hybrid battery at 50% ? What do I need to do bearing in mind the car is left unused for three months ? For 12 v battery to disconnect the terminal - just the negative terminal only or both terminal ? Also disconnecting the terminal will the computer system of the car setting be lost ? Thanks
@@EVDude yeah I saw but was mainly about being able to use to to help another car in need without using your hybrid. You used a trickle charger to top off your 12v battery in the back and connected to the ground and positive point provided from under the hood. I’d like to know if it’s ok to top off the battery by connecting the booster/portable jumper directly on the 12v in the back? Not sure if it’s better to use a trickle charger instead like you did, since it’s lower amps through longer periods and if it’s also best to use the points provided under the hood since connecting to the negative terminal of the actual battery can cause an explosion/fire. Would love to hear your insight. I just got my first Toyota hybrid.
I have had a Prius Prime since 2018, but trading it in on the RAV4 Prime soon. So I do appreciate your channel. I am purchasing the SE model, as I feel I can't afford all the bells and whistles and as well, do I really need all the fancy upgrades. Although I do like the heads up display on my Prius Prime.
Congrats on moving forward with the R4P. To be honest, I went with the XSE because I do like the little upgrades (19 inch wheels, sunroof, vertical LED etc..) I don't have the headsup display but from what I read, it's no that great with polarized glasses or if there's too much sun. It wasn't a must for me, I only wanted the 1500W outlet from the TECH nothing else, so I did not end up getting that trim.
