In my experience many cars use an EGR solenoid that will go bad after many years. The EGR valve itself will be fine. I have owned and fixed 3 different cars by replacing the solenoid.
Helpful videp bro. Thanks my hyundai accent egr valve is not in timing, sometimes it is open even in acceleration, thats why my car is jerking. I replaced the egr assembly and cleaned other sensors and intake manifold. But still egr opens intermittently. Usually when it happens when its cold, but sometimes even if im driving for hours, jerking is still there. It goes away when i park it for more than 10 min And drive it again. But sometimes after few minutes of driving it comes back somtimes also it remains normal.
Okay. Does the jerking occur under heavy load? Like climbing an incline, hard acceleration etc. With no codes, fuel trims have to be looked at. It should give some idea. Sometimes, fuel delivery issues throw no codes but can cause jerks especially under load.
@@DIYAutoworksNG it occurs even just in normal road, it starts from 1100 to 1500 rpm. It is worst in inclined road. I've tried dismounting the egr solenoid with the cable connected on it then jerking is gone. It runs like new, but egr error code will appear after running for about 10km. So i put the egr back.
Usually disconnecting the EGR should cause driveability issues. The improvement with disconnection does look like the EGR is stuck open, but then you said you changed it and don't have any codes. Are you able to get fuel trims with the EGR mounted? Ideally, at idle and at around 1500 - 2500rpm?
Hello, did you get the EGR ERR 99.2 on the scan tool? I am having this issue now and also doesnt give any light on dashboard. Please let me know. Thanks
Hey I never got that EGR ERR 99.2 code. It was just that the EGR won't pass that active test. It never reached the threshold for tripping an EGR code till I sold the car. I'd start with cleaning yours, including the EGR passages. If that doesn't work, likely the sensor for the EGR itself.
Nice videos, thank yew sooo very much, I have an accord 2005, a faulty delay in shift and bucking and sometimes stuck till I step off throttle pedal then it jerks in gears 1-2 when TPS is connected but when I disconnect the TPS it just revs up from 2500rpm to 3000rpm when changing from 1-2 gear and the rest is smooth as usual any ideas?
Hey Nasiru, thanks for the compliment! Do the jerks happen when cold or hot? Will be great to have the car scanned. The TPS effects shifts and it could be that yours is sending faulty data for the ECU AT to work with.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Here's how My car shut down while driving while I was driving in reverse and I couldn't start it again, I turn on the fuel through the diagnostics, it comes to the fuel filter, the diagnostics shows no errors, I go to the engine and test the egr, it shows egr active, then it changes, egr is not active Is the problem in the egr that I can't start the car?
A faulty EGR can cause a no start but so many other things will cause a no start too. This requires close troubleshooting. You can manually test the EGR valve solenoid to see if it clicks.
OK, so I cleaned the EGR valve in a 2005 Accord and 2007 Pilot. This test always fails like yours did. Since both vehicles have no codes and run very smooth I'm skeptical about the accuracy of the test. My scan tool is the Autel MX808S with the latest Honda update. The reason I'm skeptical is that the tool has other software glitches that are pretty obvious. I'll try and contact Autel support.
I just skimmed through supported functions for the 2011 Focus and didn't specifically see EGR adaptation although they were a lot of other adaptations/resets supported. You can have a second look here after selecting the tool and the car. autel.com/vehicle-coverage/coverage2
probly becouse its actually impossible to diy on cars without a scan tool these days NOW its part of the standard tool kit , so its the same as saying how can you call yourself a diy when you have all those spanners oh and there snap on too ,
