Here we show you how to test you relay on the compressor and for a short in the compressor when the compressor won't come on but everything else is running.
Hi, the voltage came 360 V due to double phasing from pole to house by govt labour and refrigerator blasted. Now fridge starting but I'm getting clicking sound 2 times(with 2 sec gap) and again 2 clicks(with 3 mins gap). Is it relay problem?
I ohmed and continuity checked compressor and it checks good. The compressor, comp fan, nor condenser fan would come on so replaced adaptive defrost board. Everything fired up fine for a split second, then errt bang! Then electric burn smell from back of fridge area. Looks like starter and possibly relay is fried. I retested compressor and it still tests good. Three questions. Will a 3n1 hard start work with my Frigidaire GLRS267ZAW0? Would the starter being fried also make comp fan not work? Do you think I fried the AD board again or is there a way to test it to see?
would the relay make a clicking noise if its an intermitent fault, my fridge is working but when the motor kicks in i get a clicking/ticking noise at the bottom/back of the fridge freezer.
Having this problem to only mine causes a slight power surge when it happens. Its every hour or two when the compressor turns on & off automaticaly. Pretty sure its the relay because compressor still runs fine. Wish they can just stay on all the time so they dont do stuff like this. Would cause it to overheat though.
My Samsung inverter makes circuit breaker of the house go off as soon as the compressor starts. Lately the compressor has been making noise. No short between windings and the ground 11.7ohms between each winding. Do you have any suggestions?
How hot should a compressor get? My fridge stoped working it kept clicking every few minutes compressor was not running i tested cap it was bad found another i had around to temperarly fix it compressor runs fridge is cold now but i notice it seems to run forever it seems and compressor is hot to touch its a big maytag side by side is this normal?
Freon is a brand... its like calling tissues, kleenex. its not Freon its refrigerant. and a relay and terminals are completely different parts. dont call me out unless you know what you're talking about. which you do not. maybe you two can study together
To Ridin ATVs: If the relay is clicking then your compressor is not coming on and it doesn't matter if it has the right amount of freon or not it cannot cool without running. So you will have to make the decision to have someone come and change your compressor for you which is going to run $400 plus dollars or you can try a 410 hard start relay which may work for a while or may not. It is up to you my friend and in my opinion its worth the shot with the relay.
normal for a compressor to get warm or hot to the touch as it's cooling the refrig.. I would focus more on the temperature in the freezer. If your compressor is not shutting off then you need to check to see if your freezer is getting down to temp. If your reaching close to 0 deg in the freezer then the air flowing to the refrigerator side should be cold enough to allow the cold control to shut the refrig. down when the desired temp. is reached. If your not getting cold enough you may have
If you went from each prong to the bare metal of the compressor and got no continuity that is good and means there is no short. If you got continuity between each of the 3 pins then that is good. As stated below by the nice gentleman below these comments the compressor with a new relay will either last a while or it will die soon. It's worth the shot especially if you are the one doing the work and not paying someone to do it. If it works great if it doesn't you need a new compressor.
I did all the test and the compressor is good, when I plugged everything back in it started running and cooling but the temps in the fridge is 50º and the freezer in only at 15-20º with settings at coldest. I had previously replaced the thermostat control, frigde and freezer reached temperatures of 40º & 0º for about a week then it started to get warm again. The defrost heater is working because I opened it up while it was cooling and there was no ice build up. What can it be?
Hey man good vid, not hating but you should put disclaimers on your vids. I used to just replace bad relays with hard starts, but!!!! and this is a big butt, when you put a hard start (or compressor killer as I now call them) you remove the thermal overload and now have no thermal protection for your compressor. I like to replace the relay with another start relay, ideally the OEM replacement. If you must wire a hard start try to keep the black round thing (thermal overload).
I am replacing my relay, I could tell it was fried. I noticed there was not a ground wire coming off my compressor, its the same one in your video that you can see above the 3 prongs @:48 . Is that normal. It has never been worked on before, 8 year old jenn-air
there is cuple things can be making noise sometimes the fan flapers are hiting cables around or debris tjat go on the floor make sure you check that, losse nuts, and if the noise comes from the conpresor itself it can be low on freon and is just grinding but if you touch the conpresor and its hot well that means the conpresor its bad
The fan in the freezer comes on, the fan on the bottom behind the fridge comes on and the compresser comes on. However the freezer temp is about 40°F and the refrigerator is about 62°F. Why it's my refrigerator not cooling properly? Kenmore elite side by side.
Sounds like freon to me but without tapping into the line and getting a pressure reading it's hard to tell. A compressor going bad or some type of blockage in the sealed system can show the same signs as low freon. So if you are not able to test the freon and correctly diagnose those types of problems then i would call in your local pro to let ya know what's going on.
sorry it's taken a while to reply but the test you did shows that there is continuity through the compressor via those pins which is good. Now scratch some paint off of the compressor, keep one clip fastened to a pin, and make contact on the bare spot on the compressor with the other and that will test for the short. Then repeat on each prong to make sure all is well.
If you have never had it worked on and that is the way it is wired, then i would say not to mess with the original design. As long as your refrigerator's main plug is properly grounded then you'll be okay.
My fridge is making a clicking noise coming from around the compressor. Is this most likely the compressor itself, or the relay? It also won't cool at all, so could it be freon-related?
you've got to be kidding me.. Where did you learn this? Its not "freon" its refrigerant. and its not a relay. those are terminals. keep studying and maybe someday you will figure it all out
Be sure that your condenser coils are clean and make sure once you get it running that the discharge line coming out of the compressor (usually the smaller copper or steel freon line) gets warm after it's been running for about 5 or 10 minutes. If it doesn't get warm after that long then you are low on freon.
Hi I have an issue where one of the prongs where the relay goes is corroded. It has a little ball on the metal from where I'm guessing it fried the metal. I had technician come out and he was not able to fit new relay on. He said he may be able to shave it down but most likely want work. What is my best option? I would hate to buy another refrigerator
If your asking in reference to scratching the paint off and testing for continuity from each of the terminals then yes. It should have no continuity from the terminals to the casing. That test tells you that the compressor is shorted out inside and needs replaced.
Responding to RJC6490: The terminal out of the 3 that stands alone is always the black wire (common). The 2 that sit side by side if below the common terminal the right is red. If they are above the common the left is red. Once in a blue moon a refrigerator will have the condenser fan wires that tie in with the the power leads you will have to reverse the white and red from what is stated above. No big deal if you get it wrong the compressor won't sound right switch the red and white wires.
Also Revit7, before you replace your relay make sure you clean your condenser coils thoroughly. If the coils are very dirty and could have blocked air flow that could have caused your problem. After you replace your relay feel the smaller copper / or steel line coming out of the compressor, after the refrigerator runs for about 10 minutes for good heat output. If the line gets very warm the freon level is good if its cool the freon is low and this could have caused your problem.
1:27 - Before you jump (pun intended) for joy if you didn't get a tone on any of the terminals here, make certain you scratched off enough of the paint to make a good case connection by touching both probes to to the case at the same time and listen for the tone.
The title is "How to test refrigerator relay, compressor" but you only tested the compressor in the video. IMO, this video should be renamed and another one posted demonstrating how to test the relay.
Thanks a ton for your time! As weird as it may seem to me, I unplugged the refrigerator to test compressor and all that so it was unplugged for about 8 hours, plugged it back in and set the fridge side to default temp setting and the fridge got as cold as 28 degrees! but freezer still at 20 since yesterday afternoon. So I need a Freon charge?
Been trying to remove the cover on the starter relay of my Daewoo mini fridge but its kind of a bear. Its as if its held together by a screw on the inside or something Even tried prying the cover off with a tough flathead screw driver but nothing.
I have a Maytag side by side that slowly stopped working 2 days ago. The freezer side is working but the fridge side got warm. I watched a tech replace the Adaptive Frost module in it about 5 years ago so I bought one for $80 and installed it myself. Didn't work. I noticed also that the freezer side started warming up too. I cleaned the freezer out and removed the cover. The coils were frozen over and I don't hear the compressor run anymore. I have a new run capacitor to try - lost at this point
Hey thanks for the tips. the fridge is now working. The copper line coming out of the compressor is warm, but not real warm or hot. The outside of compressor tank feels much warmer. The coils are dusty but not caked.
I try the continuity check and my multimeter doesn't do anything. When I select continuity check it displays OL. Then when I touch the probes it stays the same. What an I possibly doing wrong? I followed the steps in the video exactly.
My fridge turned off suddenly and checked the breaker that was the problem. A few days latter the fridge turned off suddenly and wont work its not the breaker this time there are no lights or anything the cord is finealso and i plugged in an alarm clock to the outlet and it works. what could be the problem?
i just had to replace relay on a 4 year old whirlpool frig.... it seems fine and i did use vacume to clean out a little dust....Can't relay just where out or go bad?
testing for 120 should be done on the power leads running into the relay. when your testing at the correct wires the power is consistent. if you had a hard start on there then yes the power would come and go as the overload protector cut the power. In this video i was working with a refrig. with a bad compressor that had a hard start on it.
"hard start" is that one of those after market 3 in 1 items? I I would not mind learning this, trying to fix ours. I removed the relay, and tested ohms across the R and S terminal, (white and red) had about 7 ohms. So the seems OK, Correct? Compressor, and compressor fan is not running. I was hoping it was the relay, trying to help the landlord out. He's just going to get a new one in tomorrow. Thanks for reading.
Hey there!!! Thanks for the great video! Question: When you test for continuity and get the beep, this def means the compressor needs to be changed? Thanks!!
If you have a beep when touching your multimeter probes to any of the compressor contacts and the metal case of the compressor, it means there's a short, and definitely you should get a new compressor.
Who, what man. People are trying to learn. I was a general mechanic, auto light truck, all my life. People are not born knowing all this information. I have learned to fix lots 0 things from the Internet. Garage door opener, stoves, furnace, Lets be nice to one another. Help one another if we can, not call people stupid. 😇
Probably a stuck thermostat. Check voltage on both sides of the thermostat; if the voltage never goes away on one of the sides the thermostat is bad. Basically the thermostat is responsible for letting the fridge know that it has reached the desired temperature and that it should stop cooling.
Your welcome! Just remember that there is a problem with the compressor and this fix may not last long so make sure to have another refrigerator picked out just in case this fails. Good Luck!
My fridge just stopped getting cold. My compressor starts but shuts of rite away the fan work and it makes a clicking noise. Any help. Thanks. My guess low oil cause like I said it kicks on fro 2 sec and shuts of.
