Hi Jake. Some years ago, I was looking for a video about movable nockpoint and found your old video (with white paper stick in your shirt :) ) . I've learn alot and still use your method. Thank you again.
Very nice, I've adopted it. A small point: you were not tying 'granny knots' but double overhand knots. The final part would be better as a reef know (which is probably what you actually tied) than a granny knot, too.
Nice! Thanks. Using a cord or rope on a dowel, or a piece of closet pole would make it much easier to see though. Or different colors serving and nock material.
Every time I need to do something, I think 'I wonder if Jake has a video...?' OF COURSE HE DOES!! and more than that, its better explained than any other video I seem to be able to find. Thank you Jake.
I don't get why people seem to like even tiller for barebow. Wouldn't you want the pressure in the bow hand to be as far down as possible? And the back of the arrow up as high as possible? Basically having the arrow parallel (but higher) to the actual pressure points between both hands?
Gotta be honest Jake, it is really hard to see what you are doing when you are tying the permanent nocking points. I think a couple things would really help- use thread that is a different color than the serving. The black on black is very difficult to see what is going on. And two, even more important, illustrate the whole process, the wrapping and knots, using some sort of larger, easier to see model. Maybe use a broom stick sized dowel to represent the bow string and paracord to represent the nock thread. As it is I'm trying to follow you and am not having any success. Thanks
Jake, when you wrap the permanent NP's, do you take into consideration the direction the center serving is wound? As in, do you try and wrap the same direction as the center serving? Or opposite?
When you're bareshaft tuning, do you prefer to have them above, below, or right in the middle of your fletched group (in terms of nock high or nock low)?
Jake, if you do a follow up, Mel had a cool set up to show proper D-loop that I think you could use for this. Use one color rope for the string and another color rope for the nock points... it's big and EZ to see. you could even wrap the 'nock' rope with different color tape or something to show the different parts of it.
Just a complete idiots question here. Been in and out of archery for a few years, but I just do not see the purpose, or reasoning behind all these “tie on nock points”. What exactly is so wrong with the forever tried and true brass nocks? Is simplicity just too much a draw back. I cannot for the life of me, see how a nocks got so complicated. You all call these permanent yet all you do is cut them off and retire them. I find with 3 under shooting with no string walking, I can still just use one good brass nocking point on the top side and that’s that. I do like the looks of the tie on nocks, but after many attempts, mine don’t stay nice and the brass ones are no worse for wear after years of service. Just saying, there sure is a bunch of complexity here with a pretty simple thing as an arrow nock on a string.
Adds unnecessary and (usually) undesirable weight on the string and also wrecks tabs. No big deal if you shoot thirty arrows every couple of months but 1000+ arrows a week, tab's gonna be ripped to shreds if you're shooting properly (or trying to).
I run my nock thread through some hot-melt glue before tying it on. That way, when you melt your ends, it also heats up the glue and it becomes more permanent.
Hello Jake, I started archery again after a long long break. I wanted to say thank you for all your content. The nocking points are great. Today I tied some movables, because I made a new string on Saturday. Your content is great and helps alot. I am glad, that I found your channel. It's fun to watch and a lot of great tips. Best greetings from Germany. Daniel
I tie my nocking points with the string-material leftover from string making and seal it with pure beeswax. They had never slip or come loose. Greetings from Germany, I love your series. I shoot instinctive barebow, so welcome to the club :-)
I'm interested to see what you think of Barebow nocking point locations. The angle of the string/nock attachment, when crawling down the string, tends to induce downward force on the front of the nock and upward force on the back of the nock. I've tried various solutions to this problem, but your experience will probably give you some better ideas.
It's kind of "traditional" in the UK to use Dental Floss, but I've had even better results using spare string material (e.g. Fast Flight, etc.) and then supergluing it.
Thanks for that, it all made a lot of sense and was very clear. I'm sure I've heard that super glue can degrade string material. Anyone got any real evidence of that?
"Smoothing" will be the addition to my normal method - Thank You! We do everything else exactly the same, although I end by pulling the loop through with a different piece of serving - just preference ;).
