Where I live in Ontario I like to transplant in the early spring or late in the autumn. The trees are dormant and have no leaves to dehydrate the seedling. As a result they won't get "set back" as badly as they do with summer moving. They are also easier to dig... in fact in some wet soil you can simply grab the small tree and pull it out. Planted as bare root trees in the dormant season is also easier to do as you don't have to dig a hole. You simply cut a wedge in the wet soil, raise it and slide the roots in. Early spring is usually rainy and will help settle the soil around the seedling before the summer drought comes. Late fall is also good but be sure to firm the soil around the tree sell to remove air pockets that can allow frost to damage the roots. Through the winter and into the spring wet conditions will further settle the roots in so they are ready to get working as soon as the warm spring comes.
I wish our hard clay/shale soil on our property was better. It’s shallow soil before hard pan, so we are going to rent a trencher machine to try and break it up enough so that we can come back in with the trees. Maybe we won’t be able to do nut trees, but we are going to try some sand plums that are native to Oklahoma.
Not sure if there's any science behind this but I once transplanted a pine and it has always struggled. Someone told me to mark one of the tiny branches with a highlighter that points to the sun in the morning and then when you transplant put it in the exact same direction as it was growing using the mark as a guide. I haven't had a problem since
Omg i just came to tht realization this summer cuz of my transplant death rate omg i learned my lesson, put amendments on top, do not amend the hole, it shocks the roots n kills, not even the best organic shit 😊
Stefano Ianiro haha thanks buddy not completely happy with it but for a first attempt pretty cool (literally took 1hr & 45 mins going frame by frame :/) and yeah Bow’s always stealing the spotlight...
@@ZaneMedia Oh wow. Next time just set a keyframe at the beginning where you want the button to start, then go to the end and scale/shift the button to where you want it to end and then set another keyframe. The software will automatically expand it and shift it. It should only take a couple minutes.
Stefano Ianiro awesome will definitely give that a shot, I had to also apply a mask layer and go frame by frame for that as well not sure the same would apply for that though 🤔
that reminds me, I want to check on my strawberry containers and work on giving the new runners their own space. and I want to search near my favorite wild fruit and nut trees and at the nearby park for transplantable young plants.
Not all tree roots are brown, unless they are the type to remain shallow... Also taught to wait to add top dressings until second year after transplanting.
Poplar and Pine We've found deer don't like black walnut. Hopefully, your local deer will not, either. However, deer love apple and plum. We put cages around our young apple and plum trees, 4' x 4' x 6' tall. 2 x 2 wood as a frame, attach chicken wire.
You guys are awesome, thank you so much for sharing, all the very valuable information! I’m forever grateful to have found you on RU-vid! Best wishes and love from south Galicia Atlantic coast ❤️🥰
I planted nuts in my garden 3 years ago. I had planned to transplant them in the fall when the leaves fell off. They didn’t come up the first year at all. The second year, I thought they had died. They started coming up and I was shocked. I was told by the person we got the nuts they would only grow 1-2’ per year. The second year they were as tall as me. We didn’t get them transplanted because I had surgery twice and just didn’t get it done. This is the 3rd year and they are upwards of 6-7’ tall. How and when would you recommend me trying to transplant them at this stage or should I just cut them off and try again? I’ve planted more seeds but as the first seeds they aren’t germinating this year so far.
Found your site looking at rooting with willow water. Thanks for tip on using 1st year growth , leaves and smashing limbs. Will do that now. Like the slit in ground for bare root trees. Will try that with my next order of BRT's
It doesn't look like you use the same type of planting pattern as you do in the orchard. The same nut tree next to each other is okay? No problems like the fruit trees have? Do you need to plant nitrogen fixing trees?
We will add some honey locust in between but they are just 6” seedlings in the nursery. Good point. We are alternating black walnut with Japanese walnut so it’s not a total monoculture.
also Stefan do you know anything about a tree called "Butternut"? the nearby park has some, and all I've ever seen online about them is that they're extremely rare and used to be favorites of the early brittish colonists in my area.
What about preparation of the planting row? If you land wasn’t growing trees for a long time do you have to do amend the soil for initial planting? What about soil pH ? Would you recommend a soil test and possible remediation if pH too high or too low?
Hi there stefan great advice. So the nut tree seedlings just came off the trees ? Are the seedlings identic to mother plant or crossed ? Take care and keep up the good work. Peace and perma
Shocked at the root growth in Fall....we have very, very dry summers and it is always difficult to get small trees or shrubs thru summer....now I am fall planting even non-evergreen trees...thanks again!!!
Thank you. Another fun and informative video!! How is the root growth pattern in tropical monsoon region. We don't fall distinct fall season and trees are evergreen mostly.
Greatest root growth happens right after leaf fall, in tropical regions with wet and dry seasons there are distinct leaf fall periods for different species. Try then.
@ the 11:30 mark. "Dont amend the soil in the hole because it interferes with the ability of the roots to reach out and draw water " It very hard to not amend the soil in the hole. But I think you maybe on to a good idea. . I ammendment the hell out of the soil based on the advice of getting organic matter in the soil. That advice is heavenly touted in cover crop videos . It seems like any tree I buy, Lowes potted trees mostly. But a few Bare root and one spring apple plum and pear rootstock , it takes a year to begin growing and I typically just cut the bottom out of the pot they came n and place the potted tree in well or over amended soil . The rootstock . Not yet grafted didnt grow one inch all summer long but shot up six feet the second season 6 feet. Its seem to me I give my newly bought trees the greatest care and advantage for a start and I'm punished for doing so by no first season growth
I'm also thinking maybe my plot ,which is in a contractors outdoor storage lot is mostly soil brought into the site no for growing but to raise the land above the water table and maybe m yh plot is affected by replant disease or something in ng equally mysterious
By amending I mean not to amend inside the hole. You are planting in a soil that's amended and then a planting hole made. Two very different situations. If you want to amend your approach is the way to go. Potted trees often have a lot of roots cut off to fit in the pot. It's normal for them to just sit there for one year while they regrow roots.
Fall and spring whenever we wave time and appropriate weather. Almost all fruit shrubs are not planted but stuck as cuttings. It’s this Friday’s video, stay tuned.
