A public comment. This is one of the best axle mod videos on youtube. Ive trussed about 20 AAM front Dodge diesel axles and even on the new bare housings the dimensions are all over the place. I used a fixture that preloaded them 1/4 inch.But I kept them in the fixture during the whole welding process because those axles seem to flex alot more than a solid housing.
I've watched a number of videos on different ford 9" modifications. By far this video most clearly shows the details involved in this particular process. The videography was great, and you explained why and how each step was performed. Great Job!
Good job and well thought out plan. Planning out your method of attack and executing with precision led to a top quality piece. No matter how long it takes I never compromise the integrity of my finished product. Can't say it enough.....GOOD JOB!
Tim, while you're there (or next time you're there) you should talk to Dan and see if you can do a detailed video tour of RuffStuff's facility. I would think that would make for a great video. I'd love to see their processes, from design to prototyping, manufacturing, and shipping. I've bought tons of parts from them over the years, and I think if other people could see what goes into their products they might realize what a bargain RuffStuff's products are.
I narrow alot of housings in race car chassis shop, I think factory used robot welders on them housings, have had 2grind weld even off back covers and reweld them, great job on brace, we do middle last also!
Great Video! Obviously your method worked, but what I was curious about was, when preloading and tacking the truss, I figured the truss would not offer much resistance gve the 2 cuts in it to form around the banjo housing.
This is a super cool project to build a nice, solid, garage built HD axle housing. The only thing I would do differently (as an expert keyboard wheeling enthusiast) is put the drain plug in a location where it won't get scraped over rocks and mashed
Thanks for the question! This particular table has height adjusters at the base of each leg. You can check the table top for flatness by using a large straight edge on end. If the table is twisted for some reason it can be corrected with the feet adjusters.
I assume you're going to cap the ends of the axle truss? Also, I'd add a strip of metal over the lower section of the housing where the ring gear is to prevent denting the housing into it.
I'm just doing some research since I plan to do some welding on a solid axle and I've never worked with solid axles before. Im just curious, what's the purpose of a truss? is it mainly for off roading to protect the axle from rocks and stuff?
all materials ultimately have a cycle to failure. some are very high like good old american steel. that's why those poor welds were sufficient. I see the same poor craftsmanship on old ford parts but they never stopped the vehicle. even bad frame welds that never mattered and the truck was in use. Never fails to amaze me how far you can run a ford. Great Vid thanks and be well!
troytree guy poor welds are overlooked unless it's structural. I build 60 ton cranes for a living and I can tell you that if my weld has one spot of porosity, the whole seam would have to be cut out and redone.
this is the same thing, mild steel and short circuit mig. you obviously dont know what youre talking about. also usually if they warp. and they will always warp to some extent. its never enough to really cause an issue
That was impressive, I just don't like the way the kits work for disk brakes. In my area I need the emergency brakes to work, and I don't see how yours could work? Maybe adapting Ford 8.8 brackets?
I have been looking in to this. Depending on the housing ends, you can use the Ford 8.8 backing plates and brakes. If you have the Late Big Bearing / Torino ends then you can bolt on the brakes.
newer cars today don't have drain plugs on things like this. It's nothing new really. I just guess back then they figured most of those vehicles would never see the mileage needed to change out the lubricant.
Great job, but a little bit of a overkill with the preload. Clamp it, weld it, let it cool; unless it's stainless or another steel alloy, it should warp very little.
If Bleepin Jeep could teach me how to tie a tie and not say fuck in church or when I'm talking to the in laws I really don't think I would have any use for the rest of the RU-vid
I have a 2013 mustang gt with both rear tires worn more from outer half than inner half. The wear from outside to inner is gradual. Is this sign of bent axle housing?
Uhmmm.... Lost me. Most people truss across the top because flex up and down is common when the wheel hits an obstacle. Anyhow - you're correct that the weld is airy. In those years hand welded arc was more common. Also many of these axles were reused time and time again. Therefore the brackets were likely re-welded and possibly repositioned unless you know the donor vehicle was all original. I like the idea of the added drain. The factory left that out to lower production costs, just like most transmissions as well. Unfortunately placing a drain on one of the axles strong points was the original issue. Also you lower the center toward the scrub line. I wonder if the back truss absorbs any up-down motion as well?
I just pulled the 9in out of my 78 bronco because the leaf perches sheared. and same damn thing, passenger side perch weld was full of porosity and the other side was the same deal. almost as if there was no argon on the mig . also, it seams like the opposite sides of each perch the welds had zero penetration to the the axle tubing. so basically the perches were only held on by 1 weld each.. and the weld was worm holed all to fuck. I thought a previous owner might have done it but, judging by how the axle came out, I could tell no one had ever taken it apart... so those shirty welds are factory... WHAT IN THE LITERAL FUCK!!!!
Cool videos! I have a ranch property off of a dirt road 20 miles to the nearest town. What used 4x4 pickup truck would you recommend for driving in heavy mud/snow for every day commuting to town. I want to spend about $4,000. max. This truck will be used heavily everyday so I don't want a expensive new one.
Hey Jerome! Go find your self an older 3/4 ton or 1 ton 4x4 pickup with a healthy V8. Doesn't matter which brand they all had their strengths and weaknesses.The simple V8 should be reliable and easy to fix and the solid front axle will handle most of the abuse you would throw at it as a ranch rig! A manual trans will also simplify things!
Hey Tim, wondering what you guys did with the breather hole. I got my truss from Ruffstuff recently and was mocking it up and realized that the truss covers up the factory breather. Did you drill and tap another one? Any insight you can give would be great.
BleepinJeep Thanks Matt. Can you give any idea where you placed it? I might just have to wait and see as I also have an upper truss and 4 link mounts to go on as well as the backbone. Appreciate the quick reply!
