Correction, you ONLY need to turn off the secondary O2 sensor. The secondary O2 sensor checks to see if the cat is flowing properly. The primary O2 is what the ECU needs to adjust air fuel ratio.
you don't need to disable either sensor. the column on the left, where the primary and secondary O2 sensors were "disabled", only disables the check engine light for those sensors. It really changes nothing in the overall performance of the car.
Do you have to put -15 all the way out? Could I put different numbers in different RPMS? I want it louder in the higher rpm’s and quieter in the lower.
My chart didn’t show red and blue like yours when I chose my tune. It stayed all white but I was still able to flash it to my car from the ktuner. My chart didn’t show any statistics.
jed stuart yes this will void your warranty any mod will lol but I’ve taken my car to the dealer and they don’t care and they’re not gonna know unless you say something
@@iggyvlogs1132 Wrong. It does not automatically void a warranty, as that's illegal. They would have to prove that the issue that you're attempting to warranty was caused by the tune.
@@iggyvlogs1132 we’ll seeing how flames are from excess fuel igniting on the exhaust all you have to do is add fuel on decel. The pops and flames are usually together. Looks like In the video you were removing fuel which causes a lean scenario which is the opposite of what you want for pops and flames.
Just ordered mine for my 18 Acura Tlx Aspec, my mods are 1 cat removed, muffler delete, AEM CAI, & cherry bomb m80 as resonator, & now after about 9 months its throwing a p0420 code so I'm gonna disable the 02 sensor. Thx 4 vid
I’ve been getting p0420 and p0430 I still have all my cats though just a x pipe and muffler delete my only guess is I blew the cats from all the popping
@@J35Y6 I no longer have this cat, I now have a 21 TLX Type-s & I installed high flow cats on it & so far there's been no light because my installer put in what they call a defouler which tricks the computer into thinking a cat is still on there, but you can use the K- tuner to disable the O2 sensors.
I just did the throttle response on my car an I have it on stage 2 aggressive for normal, sport , sport + and I can’t tell no difference 😡, fucking ktuner!!! I purposely got this so it would eliminate my speed governor an i come to find out after I got it it does not do it yet!!!! They are in no hurry to do an update for the 15-18 tlx
@@Rubicon14 I'm very much a beginner so take what I say with a grain of salt. I noticed that my car is actually seeing more performance with a less agressive tune. I could be wrong, but I think, being that I'm at high altitude, the lower O2 density in the air is causing a less efficient burn as more fuel is injected. I'll try making it more agressive as I improve my airflow. Have you tried actually going with lighter tune? It helped for me anyway. If anyone has a different idea on why my tune not acting as I'd expect I'd love to hear from someone who knows more than I do lol
@@reach4thebleach192 idk really anything about Tunning, I just used the base tune that ktuner has to offer for my car and I set all the throttle responses to the highest they go in every ids mode. Where I live where are really high up, we are like 1,500 ft above sea level
@@brandonflaum5382 had to rewatch to find out lol, dont disable the primary o2 its in front of the cat anyway so it doesnt matter if the cat is deleted, that feature is for if you replace the primary with a wideband. A catless car will fail emissions even if the sensors appear ready. Don't put any negative timing in the high cam table (with the exception of high load boost applications), it has no effect on regular driving but in the event you hit one of those cells it can cause some real damage, when you let off the throttle it will switch back to the low cam table anyway. -15 deg of timing is unnecessary, further negative doesnt mean more pops, I've never had to go past -5 for the loudest pops if that's what your after. more negative means more wear.
i have an i4 accord with ktuner, my downpipe is messed up and did a muffler delete but when im driving my shit burbles just like yours does in the video can i still run this tune with just that done to my car and do i need to get ride of cats
I want to use the Ktuner for my Honda Pilot 2019 touring with the 9 speed, is possible if I buy a Ktuner for a Honda Accord sport 2014 CVT 2.4 4 cylinder it could work for my pilot too ?
IggyVlogs you are not supposed to disable the primary, only the secondary. 🤦🏻♂️ “the tune” doesn’t magically make the car know how much fuel it needs without the sensor. Smh you shouldn’t make a video giving advice if you don’t understand how something works. All you’re doing is giving misdirection and could even be the reason someone’s engine blows if they are naive and take your advice.
Bro I have V1.2 flashed on dual target 21psi. I tried to reflashed it back to factory to try different basemap but the thing is it didn’t allow me to changed some settings on the advanced features after choosing diff basemap because the page was blank I mean nothing in there even after clicking the + button beside the advanced features. What seems to be the problem bro? I ended up uploading the tune straight away even without changing anything.
It is still locked to the car, I just reflashed it to factory settings. I also tried to reflashed it back to factory once again, unmarry the unit to the car, uninstall the ktuner on my laptop just to start again from zero because the first time I did flashing the car it was perfect. But after doing all over again from step 1 still the same there was nothing on the advanced features page was blank nothing to adjust like the turbo boost, throttle, responsiveness etc.
Harold Encarnacion don’t worry when I got my Ktuner for my car stuff like that shower for me on my 2019 Honda Civic Sport 1.5t. It’s just becuz Ktuner has not come out with and update for your car yet. After Ktuner came out with an update for my car everything started to pop up!!!! What kind of car do you have?
Are you trying to change settings on a starter tune or stage 1 or 2? It will only let you change advanced settings on the starter maps i.e. starter 16.5, 18 and 21 psi as well as dual calibration
@@notefiend nice, & yea bro have a 2017 accord v6 touring sedan… finally finished having the Rv6 Jpipe & Rv6 HFPC’s installed & got the Ktuner from Rv6 as well, happy with how everything has gone with it so far, I can’t complain
🤦♂️ Don’t disable the primary O2, it reads before the cat anyway so it will not be effected by a PCD/downpipe and it’s actually an air/fuel ratio sensor I.e. wideband. You want to disable the secondary yes, that is only used for low load/low throttle cruise anyway, but not your primary.
@@callang9 Right but the primary fuel sensor is not something you want to turn off your CEL for. As I said it’s not effected by a down pipe swap and in these cars it is a wideband and therefore actually a useful reading. If you disable that sensor alert and experience a lean condition the CEL is the first notification of such. If you don’t have that you won’t know about your lean condition until it actually causes some other adverse condition. And there is absolutely no reason to disable the primary.
Quick question, i have a catless downpipe, aftermarket front pipe and rear as well with 2,5 inch, CAI, upgraded turbo,intercooler ect, and KTuner V2 on civic gen X 1.5T, but i didn't get that crackles,pop and bangs, just a little burble. I did the correction like you said on the video with -15 on L and H. What should i do?
@@boosteroids I have a 16 crz that crackles and pops when it's in manual using the paddle shifters but it's still a cvt so that not ur problem lol. U just need a crackle tune for a cv trans
if you have paddles you shouldn’t have a problem, if you use paddles and still can’t pop id suggest adjusting ur fuel cut delay from 40ms to 500-2000ms on gears 1 through 4
@IggyVlogs I did but I didn't bring my laptop into the car to do it, I just hooked the unit up to the car & it asked did I wanna lock the unit to the car so I put yes, then I took it inside connected it to my computer & uploaded tune, so maybe initially I should've hooked up everything together
@IggyVlogs Yes it did, & in fact I was able to erase the ECU & upload the tune so I don't know why the layout is not showing up, now previously I had it for my 18 Tlx aspec & I was able to change all modes to aggressive plus set it for pops but it's not happening with this one
ktuner can only use at one car only right ?? if i wanna tune other car i have to flush the first car to factory and unlock the first car ecu....am i right???
@@mahmudhassan8894 thank you ! I needed this, just picked one up do my TL. Jus doing a couple disabling a couple codes and things and as well as monitor my car
@@DroppinGearsNotTears Make sure you know what you are disabling. There are somethings that are fine to disable but others that are not. I suggest doing proper research, you will be going through many forums, Q&As, videos from Ktuner, Hondata, etc , expand your search it will take hours and days but you will have a more solid understanding of your car, what the ECU is doing, what AFR is, Lambda, Target Lambda, Short term fuel trims, long term fuel trims, MAF scaling ; calibrating MAF for air intake, ignition timing, fuel tables, etc. Even if you are not looking to go professional, it is essential to learn what you are changing in your car and the parameters that affect those changes, etc. If you are monitoring, depending on the data you are trying to log, or what your set up is, you’ll need to know what to monitor and what you are monitoring. Generally, you should be monitoring your AFR/Lambda to see Air fuel ratio, knock control/count, MAF/MAP, STFT, LTFT, etc Research these things, that’s how all tuners learn, research and hours of it. But you will at least know what you are monitoring to make changes where appropriate. So, if for example at cruise driving, and you are monitoring Air fuel ratio, your Lambda (learn what units of lambda is), is running rich at 0.90 (13.05 AFR), instead of fluctuating around its target Lambda 1 (14.7 AFR for pump gas), then you can assume something is wrong as the car is running rich.
@@mahmudhassan8894 car has honestly ran so good. Taken in very well. I am running at current AFR @ 14.7 -14.5 I don’t plan on messing with it until I get understanding of everything
A modern EFI system for Cars 2 oxygen sensors per Bank. Sensor 1 Bank 1(&2)/ primary oxygen sensor is the air fuel monitor for the closed loop maps. Sensor 2 Bank 1(&2)/ secondary oxygen sensor is a catalytic converter monitor. Which means you only need to disable Sensor 2 for a catalytic converter less exhaust system. Disabling the primary oxygen sensor prevents you from having any micro adjustments in fueling(long-term fuel trims and short-term fuel). Eliminating close Loop and only relying on a open loop tune is a modern take on running a carburetor (fixed in fueling)
@@brandonflaum5382 start with a resonator and muffler delete. It will start burbling if u need more upgrade ur down and front pipes with something high flow.
Variable Cylinder Management. It’s the gas saving 3 cylinder mode. It’s the worst and when it’s disabled you’ll thank ktuner even More. I take it that you have it.
Yes I know what VCM is, but that’s the whole reason I disable it, it’s not about saving gas it’s about performance, I want all my 6 cylinders sir! Ready at all times! MO POWA BABEH!!
@@iggyvlogs1132 disable your vcm. I replaced my first engine because of that chit failing...youl be runing on all 6 cylinders after disabling vcm without worring about nessing up your rods or pistons from crappy vcm
