ive watched probably a dozen videos on how to use this thing and this has absolutely been the best. Showing how to zero it out to the bore size you want was exactly what i was looking for. Thanks!
Thank you for the video, though I stopped when you showed caliper. They are used for measuring up to 0.01mm or 0.0004 inch. At that precision rate caliper is not considered to be good enough. since your bore specification is within 0.001 inch or 0.025mm, it means resolution of your instrument (caliper) is very much on the edge for your measuring task. You should invest in something with 10 times better resolution, say micrometer? They are really not all that expensive and shall hep you to be really sure in your measurement. Certainly can be done like this, but it is way to tricky for tolerances you are supposed to detect, just my two cents, do not find your self offended with this comment. As you know if you shall be off, say bigger bore than needed, piston rings shall wear faster and engine shall consume more oil, hence the need to be really sure in measurements.
No ring gage either. I've wondered why so many built motors blow...until I saw how gages are used in such an environment. This isn't even the worst of it.
@@felixf5211 I been in, around, worked in and deal with many automotive machine shops. Never ever saw or heard of one using calipers to set up a bore gage. Ring guages are not needed since most shops that have proper honing equipment have proper setup fixtures. Also, a lot of our measurements involve measuring pistons and set gage to piston size to check pisto to wall clearances. I am a Red Seal Journeyman Machinist and work in industrial manufacturing. There we use ring gages when we set smaller bore gages up. Sine I turn large O.D and I.D parts (54" diameter is a common size for me) we set our gages up using the large mics. Another common size for my work is when I bore out our strander rings. These are just under seven feet inside diameter. We have a custom setting fixture for that one. Be one hell of of a ring gage.
Eric,i think you meant to say pushing down on the power stroke and up on the yellow compression stroke.?what you get is piston slap,i could never heat it my self when i was wrenching,all i could pick up was rod knocks and rocker noise. I remember sending pistons out for knurling to reduce piston clearance.way back when.
hey please i have a question on bloc engine its marked the bore cylinder class , for example "abac" can i use piston classe "B 71.98" if the cylinder classe "a 72.00" is worn but still in the limit of classe b lets say 72.02" ? the mix is possible ? cause the workshop says that if classe "a" exced the limit , rebore the cylinder 0.1 and use oversize 0.1 piston Cylinder "A" 72,00-72.01 /// Piston "A" 71,965-71,97 Cylinder "B" 72.01-72.02 /// Piston "B" 71,97-71,98 Cylinder "C" 72.02-72.03 /// Piston "C" 71,98-71,99 over size cylinder "A" 72.10-72.11 /// over size piston "A" 72,065-72,07 over size cylinder "B" 72.11-72.12 /// over size piston "B" 72,07-72,08 over size cylinder "C" 72.12-72.13 /// over size piston "C" 72,08-72,09
What's the point in measuring taper and out of roundness if maximum allowed out of roundness is 0.0002 and taper is 0.0007 when this thing can show you 0.0005 and has accuracy of +/- 0.0007?
I like the demonstration that you did using the Bore Dial gage. It makes a lot of sense!!. It is a difference between parallel and perpendicular measurement? These measurements should be the same or different?
Thank you, im just wondering, don't you have to set the gauge slightly larger than the bore, then subtract the reading on the gauge, otherwise if you if you just set it at the original bore size you cant measure the wear deviation. If my original bore is 92.0mm, i was a thinking i should set bore gauge at 92.2 and then subtract any dial gauge measurements to get the actual diameter. Am i on the right track?
When you choose the needle length in your kit, it has to be slightly larger then the bore. So that way when you slide it down into the cylinder it is constantly pushing the needle into the instrument. From there you must zero out the gauge at the correct bore specification. This allows you to measure + or - the bore size. Hopefully that makes sense. Here is a link to the kit I used amzn.to/3gXB7DO
I’m trying to figure out what my built stroker engine bore size is to order new pistons, want to see if it was a standard bore or was it over bore it’s a 4.75 striker wondering if it’s standard size
If engine piston and cylinder liners goes over clearances and Scratch &Pistons can be moved by hand and feel it's most clearance, then what action shall taken?
It’s what I had available at the moment. You might prefer to use a micrometer, but I felt confident that my caliper was pretty accurate. Thanks for watching!
How do you make a comparison if the block has been sleeved to the values that now out of range from factory specifications? I hope my question makes sense. I am basically after the 'real' diameter of the bores.
do I really need to do this to an engine? or can I just send it? assuming I'm building a non serious engine, probably turbo, for fun and daily driving.
As a certified FAA avaition inspector I almost crapped myself seeing a set of calipers in a vise whether it be wrapped in rubber or wood etc. it just ain't right. The accuracy of a pair of calipers is +/- .002" and a micrometer that measures down to .0001" should be used in a Mic. stand not a vise to set the dial bore indicator. The proper way to check a (good) caliper "not a harbor freight" is to use a set of precision ground Gauge Blocks and stack the blocks to the measurement you desire to check and then check the instrument against them. You can get a cheap Micrometer for around $50 with a standard and it would be fine for an engine. As far as (good) Micrometers go you can find good used Mitutoyo etc. ones for $50 and up and check them with the gauge blocks for accuracy. I'm all for run what you brung in tools but you have to buy decent stuff to get decent accuracy.
I'm liking a video from Mitutoyo. It explains the constraints in calibration. Might want to watch it, keeping in mind that you're lucky if your calipers are accurate to a thou throughout their range. Your micrometers(s) need to be calibrated, once you get them, as does the bore mic. A ring gage is used with the latter. Mics can be calibrated with blocks and I'm not just talking about zeroing them out. There's a bit to this. At this point, your readings are in the semi-general area of accuracy. I'm sure that it's not what you want. Good luck. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z0d25TFLfmY.html
I'd have thought you would be much better off using a micrometer set to your bore size, rather than a cheap set of digital vernier calipers.. they really are not very accurate.
This process is fundamentally flawed. A Vernier caliper, particularly a cheap & nasty one like that is in no way accurate enough to set a bore gauge. At the very least a calibrated micrometer should be used but a setting ring is preferable.
Taper and Out of Round don't depend on absolute size anyways - just differences between measurements in different directions and places to ensure it is still a cylinder shape. That only leaves Oversize, which should be picked up by the ring end gap measurement?
Properly calibrated Harbor Freight Caliper...LOL Good luck. You really should be using a Micrometer for that my friend. I mean you got .001 tolerance on that ID, so in this case, you are probably good, but, just saying, that Harbor Fraud caliper is only accurate to within .001, you might be outside that tolerance. But good video :)
Very useful and informative, thank you. Before you began measuring, you said to clean the bores_ and "if there are no deep scratches" proceed. My question is, what is considered a deep scratch, and assuming there are some, is there a way to measure the depth of it, and if there are scratches in a cylinder wall, does this render the cylinder useless. I have a scratch in mine but it is not deep (to me). It is more of a round scratch, like a paperclip is round. I can barely catch a fingernail on it.
You are infatuated with the term ROCK IT BACK N FORTH. did you know you never missed one chance to say that. Ha Ha Thanks though. You did not explain how you were seeing the lowest point on the gauge though. As the tool was rocking back and then FORTH, wheres the lowest point. When tool centred to cylinder..?
Most calipers are only accurate to .001” along their entire range. When you calibrated to read .030”, that doesn’t guarantee they are good for your measurement of 3.7795. You are only good to +- 0.001” using your equipment, which isn’t good enough to check if a cylinder is in spec to 0.0005” like you were showing.
Dont use a caliper to this .use micrometers tools . okay if you ar molding toolmaker like me . trained in using measuring tools for 30 years, it can go well😃😃😃 but always use the right tool for job like this .. ok, if you make an old motorcycle cylinder for your own offroader, it will work. ha ha 😅🤣🤣🤣tollerancers on a motorblock must be in spect -- otherwise good video master
Why are you saying it like that? "A bore dial guage"??? Is this how some people talk in different areas of the country?? I've never heard it said like that & it makes me question you & if your for real or just some buger eater they got to put in front of the camara to read a script & obviously nobody there has ever been a machinists? If im wrong then?? I dont think I am. A "bore dial guage"!?? Do you mean a "DIAL BORE GUAGE"???
Great video. Clearly showed the basics. I admit it was funny to watch this get calibrated with a harbor freight digital caliber, but for everyone jumping down his ass he said he was sending it to a machine shop for a proper measurement.
Great video! Thank you. I have measured my bores and I really dont know what to do now. Do you know where can I find specs on what the tolerances are so I can find out if I need to hone or take them in for boring? LS 5.3
Good Day all : If you're checking a worn out cylinder a dial bore going straight across would work . This is if you are trying to find out where in the bore is the out of round condition . If you have a freshly machined cylinder it would be so much better to use a three fingered digital dial bore . You will be so much happier . Good Luck !
The error of the electronic caliper is 0.01mm. This is stated in its specification. It works both in the positive and negative directions. It is best to use a micrometer to calibrate the inside meter. He has an error of several thousandths of a millimeter. It is ideal to use calibration rings. So, if you calibrate the bore gauge with a vernier caliper, it will not be quality measurements for the engine certification. It lists ranges up to thousandths of a millimeter. In my country the system is metric, so I don't write in inches.
I agree to use a micrometer to zero the bore gauge but the caliper in this video was dead nuts at .0030 on the feelr gauge. No error and it it a cheap pittsburgh caliper at that.
