Be sure to check out this video about Rescue 8 descender and "third hands" that's a little newer if this video excited you! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-era-3sIwF9k.html
Thank you so much. I was brand new to YouTubing back then. Be sure to check out my latest content. It's so much better. I LOVE teaching! It's why I make content!
Well I use that same one all the time but never use his locking method, I just bring it over the top and lock it under the pressure of the rope, never had it slip in me what so ever.
That's how most people lock off when they don'[t need to do it for long. I wouldn't do it that way if I had to take both hands off. I definitely believe that the additional locking part, with the bight and two half hitches is, more often than not, overkill. As far as far you're doing, if it works just fine for you then go for it. I'd rather be too safe than sorry, though! Thanks for commenting and sharing your experience!
That would be the Petzl MicroGrab and all it does is adjust the length of my bridge (the orange rope), which is basically a tree climber's version of a belay loop. It's not necessary for use of these methods! It just helps to extend or bring a climbing system farther or closer to me. Great question!
thanks for the demonstration. I meant to ask what type of rope you're using. Given how expensive climbing ropes can get, do you have any recommendations for an emergency use rope for hiking in case repelling down is needed? Thanks
The rope pictured is 10mm Yale Phantom. If you're using it for emergency use on a hike, and if you have a low budget, I'd recommend the Petzl Spelenium STATIC rope. It comes in 10mm and 9mm and starts at as little as $0.60/foot, which is over half what any of my arborist ropes cost me. Petzl is also an ultra dependable brand. This rope is popular in hauling systems for rock climbers and rescuers. The colors are boring, but it's a bomber rope and it will do everything you need it to for an escape or rescue scenario. Keep in mind that obviously a 9mm will weigh less than a 10mm. If you have any devices you plan on using, make sure you pick the compatible size. Bear in mind that if you intend to use this around rocks, and in a scenario where you'll need to weight the line over edges, you should invest in a "rope protector" which can be placed around the rope near the anchor to prevent friction from slicing through the rope during descent. These usually cost about $15-20. Finally, teach yourself how to make natural anchors around boulders or learn how to use protection devices like cams in situations where your own anchor option might be a crack in the rock. Trees make great anchors, especially when the anchor is redundant (weight distributed across more than one tree). Sorry, a little unsolicited advice at the end there. Oh, you may want to learn how tie and use a proper Ghost/Macrame knot, a canyoneering method for creating a secure anchor which can be removed at the top from the bottom of the climb by manipulating the two ends of the doubled rope, allowing it to drop down freely and easily so that you never have to lose your rope and all you need to make it is a rope and one carabiner. Here's my video for it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-roiqGbcc7Dc.html
Thank you so much! If you thought this was good, check out my newer content! This is one of my OLDEST videos and it still gets attention! It's terrible compared to my standards now!
Question, which I'm sure was already answered in some way or form thru the other comments, however I was looking into implementing a Rescue-8 (I prefer the hooks over the typical figure-8) as an offhand/"just in case" device for tree climbing/Arborist(ish) use. I'm trying to learn old-school methods recently, instead of relying entirely on mechanical advantage- however I'd like to keep a fig-8 for decent instead of binding up/twisting up the rope with a Munter's decent on a carabiner. So the question: Do you believe it would be a smart implementation as a friction descender as opposed to using a carabiner/munter if your friction hitch begins binding up? (For instance a Blake's Hitch/B53 becoming too tight to break easily with control). Thank you in advance for your opinion/answer. - CDS
100% yes! You wouldn't be the first nor the last arborist to pack a rescue 8 on their harness for a backup rappel system. Do it! Learn how to use a Rescue 8/Figure 8 and buy a really compact, light one online to store on your harness. This is much better than the munter for the reasons you outlined as well as better control and the ability to stop and lock off the device mid-rappel in an emergency. If you are doing really long rappels down huge trees, you may want to learn how to use a Third Hand. Here's a video I created for that. However for the most part, you will be just using the device for a quick descent/rappel. I think it's a great idea. Many climbers forget to carry a backup rappel device. Some don't even carry an extra carabiner (always have extra biners). You're thinking ahead and I love it! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-era-3sIwF9k.html
Not a problem. I'm happy to help. If you have any other enquiries unrelated to one of my videos, feel free to reach out to me at any time at knotorious.contact@gmail.com I'm available to shoot the shit about gear and techniques as well. Especially friction hitches! Anyone else reading this can contact me as well. Take care and stay safe!
Yes, you can. I don't have any demos that I've made, but look up "how to increase friction on figure 8 descender." There are some great techniques out there!
Only if you need to do more than just clip the device to your harness, like if you need to build a 3:1 where a strand might get captured as well or by adjusting the amoutn of friction going through the device by adding a strand through the carabiner in addition to the device. The way I have it shown, to the best of my knowledge, is perfectly acceptable.
If you're tree trimming, this is NOT the technique that you want to use; except maybe for quick descents. This is more for alpinists, canyoners, rock climbers and rescuers. I apologize that my arm was in the way. How can I help you achieve your goal? Do you need help developing a climbing system and technique? What kind of trees are you mostly climbing? How tall are they? Do you have any experience climbing a rope? Using a Figure 8 device is useless for ascents and it is hard to maneuver throughout the canopy with this device. I'm here to help. =-D For more in depth assistance, I can be reached at knotorious.contact@gmail.com!
@johnjriggsarchery2457 Bro, this isn't even an arborist technique. I teach rock climbing, rescue, and alpinist techniques as well as arborist. This is NOT an arborist technique, which you clearly understood, except you decided to be needlessly critical and assume I don't know what I'm talking about.
@@Knot-orious it's the way he's locking off that 8. You take your break hand, in this case, right hand, up and over the top of the 8 and you lose all friction. If there's load on the rappel line you're gonna fall. gotta bring that rope clockwise to maintain friction. Put your harness on, put some load on it, do what he shows you and see what happens when you raise that break up and around.
@@greggnelson338 I think you both need to see this video. What you are both saying is impossible is far from impossible. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--mTCgO6tvzc.html
