Hey Marco, first of all you're awesome. Secondly, I found that if you don't immediately use the textured rolling pins after rolling the "dough" out, and wait a bit, it doesn't stick to the pin as much and doesn't pull everything as you roll it. Also, I've tried applying vaseline directly on the surface of the rolled out dough once, but it messed the texture up. I wouldn't recommend that. Just wanted to let anyone who reads this know. Because I can't be the only one who thought of that "smart" idea.
Interesting approach. I found that just using DAS air drying clay on its own worked fine with my rollers. A lot less messy I reckon. No cracking so far, even after painting them, and with GSW's own "cutters" (being too lazy to DYI 25/28/32/40/50/60 mm sizes) the shrinkage when drying is pretty much on point, not much "overhang" (and certainly no problems with not covering the entire base). I do glue them to the base with PVA while they're still not dried, though. The only problem so far is the usual with painted bases - glued model coming off from the base if sideways force is applied, taking paint with it. Especially with Adepta Sororitas because of their small feet surface area. I was thinking if I pin the feet - like it seems you've been doing - that'd make it less likely to happen.
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thank you very much :) but I need to mix it with pva i think, so it would be more sturdy. I am planning a big project to make fallout vaults for fallout wasteland warfare :)
Hi! No no it's definitely too much, I pay it less than half of this price in the retail shop; any hardware store pva is fine, especially if highly concentrated (the kind for wall priming and heavy duty works)
@@juanjesusramirezgijon7249 A concentrated formulation is better because more versatile; you can use it pure for and extreme binding power and quick drying time or diluted in every possible way!
Hi Marco, as soon as I've started watching your video I was thinking "this s*it is gonna crack in no time lol"... then I saw the PVA tank and... B00M BABY!!! F00kin genius! Thanks for the hint! Continua così Marco sei er mejo!
Hi man, how are you? I may be wrong, but I think it was this one ;) www.greenstuffworld.com/en/modelling-textured-rolling-pins/220-rolling-pin-hobby-roller-runic.html
Hi Marco italiano 😉 First nice video, and maybe you know "PLASTIROC" clay the brand is Giotto, italian product. I wanna do the same thing with this one. Will we see..
Oi Marco, consiglieresti di lavorare direttamente sulla basetta? Applicare il das/Brown stuff/milliput sulla basetta, passare il rolling pin e via? Scusa per la domanda in italiano :/
Both Fimo and Sculpey are polymer clays, meaning that they need to be baked in an oven in order for them to cure. Das is an air drying clay, meaning it only needs to be left exposed to the air in order to cure. There's a huge difference between the two types of clay and you're going to be sorely disappointed if you try to use either Fimo or Sculpey without baking it.
@@aldantefax I don't know of anything exactly like Das, but there are a number of air drying clays. Personally, I just grabbed some regular old Crayola Air Drying Clay (not Model Master, which is a very different, spongy clay); it works out well enough for the few tasks I use it for, but I'm still looking out for better brands.
You really CAN ask him anything! Thank you for your responses on Instagram, Marco. I am an absolute fan of your work, vids and attitude! If you’re ever in Germany there’s a German beer waiting for you at a Greek table.
Another straightforward, practical, unexpected, priceless gem. Been persevering with Das for scenery elements for years because it's too cheap to ignore and I hate papier mache/modge podge with a passion. (it's like handling vomit) Had tried painting Das with PVA before painting to make it more durable but never thought of mixing it in. Now... I can get more enthusiastic about my terrain ideas and I really, really thank you for it (I'd had the textured rollers last Christmas but only been using them over epoxy putty). That's now three really great improvements to my technique armoury from listening to you, this one, then mixing milliput with isopropyl alcohol, and then dilute oil paint washes over acrylic paintwork and Q tips.
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Gran cosa, bei modelli, li sto pittando pure io adesso. e ho appena comprato roll pin e altro ancora da GWS, ottimo che mi è capitato il tuo video tra molti, e tutti usate approcci differenti per fare ste basette. ma si vedono tanto i tagli laser delle texture del roll sulle basette?
@@Loidrial Grande tempismo! Con materiali come il Milliput o stucchi fatti per leggere i dettagli molto bene come la GreenStuff le linee sono abbastanza visibili (soprattutto se poi dipinte tipo a pennello asciutto). Il Das invece con la sua consistenza e la possibilità di poterlo lisciare con un po' d'acqua tiepida le fa sparire piuttosto bene
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM mhhh ottimo. proverò a prendere un blocco di das che tanto viene 3 euro su amazon e provare con quello. grazie mille per il consiglio, mi sarei trovato con delle basette zigrinate per nulla
Ciao bello! Il pacco è arrivato oggi ed è una meraviglia, ho fatto velocemente 2 basette di test una col milliput e l'altra col das come hai consigliato tu, oh, madonna. che meraviglia! Grazie ancora
Tried this today though with Sculpy instead. It would not mix together well and the sculpy would stay lumpy. It came together better during the rolling pin mash. It is still drying but I took out most of the pieces and it seems decent. I learned that I should do smaller batches to control everything better. I’ll update on the final product.
If i was to ask you something it would be... can you make 2 videos a week? or 1 per day? hahahaha! Love your channel and videos, everything crystal clear! Thanks a lot
GENIUS. Das is perfect for rolling bases! Why didn't I think of that before!!! Much easier to use that milliput and without the epoxidized radicals that you have to protect yourself from.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a few of the rollers but didn't really like using them with milliput. Will have to try that DAS trick with the PVA. Thanks again.
😁😁😁 It's a great pleasure! Yep Milliput is a bit tricky with the rollers because it's super sticky and the soft consistency doesn't help either. I had some results using petroleum jelly on the roller but it's too much effort for (if everything goes well) the same result
So, I've tried using a textured rolling pin with air drying clay and I ran into a problem; the clay grabs hold of the rolling pin and wants to come off the parchment paper and roll up as I go along. Other than wetting the rolling pin, did you do anything else to help avoid the clay sticking to your rolling pin?
Some clays can be very sticky especially with a bunch of glue inside. Wetting both the roller and the surface of the clay is usually enough. You can rub some vaseline/petroleum jelly on the roller (that's almost mandatory when working with Milliput go example), that solves any stickiness problem 😉
Mr. Price shops in Ireland sell DAS and PVA glue for a very cheap price. I happen to already have DAS, PVA glue, textured rolling pin and a rotary tool and was researching how best to utilise DAS for my bases. Enter Marco stage left. Cheers man.
That's a really big Bloodbowl team! At the start I saw the slotted bases and thought of blood bowl, but was like "need 60..." can't be.. but then I saw them all at the end
I tried this yesterday. Kind of. I used HobbyCraft flavor DAS directly on the bass and ...it was alarmingly more pleasant then the brown stuff. I think it needed a coat of scenic glue the next day because the clay is made of fibre, but, I have much nicer edges to the texture since I can tear it off and get a rough look at the end. "Top kek" as the kids say ❤
Grazie!!! uh ci sono davvero tantissime opzioni; quasi in ogni città c'é un negozio dove trovare miniature o online la scelta é infinita! Per Warhammer la base di partenza é sempre www.games-workshop.com 😉
Not bad. Maybe once they are on the base hit it with some filler around the join and a light sanding with some fine sandpaper before painting over it. I'm going to give it a go and see how it looks.
Thanks😊! Yeah it's an option if you want to make really disappear the borders but in general I like a bit of roughness around the borders to show a dit the thickness and texture of the floor 😉
I was wondering, is it very elastic or does it break at some point ? I would like to make some broken bits on my base and I wonder if I can break the clay once it's dry or if I have to cut it with a knife. Maybe adding less PVA glue ?
When I need only broken bits I don't add the pva glue. The extra elasticity is never a problem, but you can skip the step and save time if you need only little pieces
Hi Marco, I know this is an old video but I've just tried this method and I'm having some issues. How do you remove the excess das from the bases you cut out from the sheet of material? I'm asking you this because after I cut out the bases I couldn't just peel away the excess das because it got stuck to the parchment paper (even though I used some water before I laid the sheet down). Could it be because I added too much pva glue?
Hi Marco! Great video, thanks! One noob question: would it make sense to use that DAS-PVA mix to fill crevices and cracks in prints? Like an alternative to milliput if you want. I have lots of DAS readily available and no milli yet, so if that's doable it would be jackpot
I've always used epoxy putty but never thought about adding PVA glue to DAS. I use a epoxy putty called "All-Fix" it's sold as a generic multi-use putty and comes in large quart tubs. Generally speaking it goes bad before I use it all, but it's far cheaper than any of the hobby epoxy putties.
Oh yeah I think it's the epoxy used by plumbers! I find Milliput a bit too sticky to work well with rolling pins with a very fine texture! Is All-Fix firmer?
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM All-fix is pretty firm with just a little tac to it, and cures like stone. I would have to say it's probably the least stick epoxy putty I've used. I've used it with rollers and the "tentacle maker" from GreenStuffWorld which is another great little tool.
Cool, but I'd skip the pain of mixing the glue and messy kitchen and use Fimo/Sculpy. But nice work on the bases, I have the Necro style GSW roller myself.
Thanks😊! When you are a commission painter you need to consider carefully the cost of materials and all these bases cost me something like 3€ using DAS+Glue 😉
Great video :) one question. Do the rollers leave a thin lines in addition to the pattern they have? I saw some and they seem to have many lines which takes away the realism.
Thanks!!! Yeah they have a really fine pattern probably coming from 3d printing. If you use putties like greenstuff, really good when it comes to read and retain the details, you can see them on the base, but with air drying clays and a bit of water you can easily make them disappear 😉
I always put a pin in one of the feet! It's the only way to have a solid solution. You can see in the pictures at the end where I pinned a bunch a Skaven 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM i thought you glued! Gotta try using wire then. Bought some thin Steel wire for use while spraying. Gonna try fixing the modell to the base with it. You got any short vid on pinning models?
@@robinwesterlund5563Sadly glue alone is not enough to guarantee a safe long term bond with a gaming model, pinning is always the right answer in these cases! I can definitely make a video on this 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM looking forward to it! Any tip on different kind of adding models to bases is greatly apreciated. I was considering using magnets (strong spheric on base and flat on mini) so i can switch between a scenic base and gaming base. Any thoughts on that? With spheric i ment such you can use as refrigriator magnets. They are very strong and should last a long time.
@@robinwesterlund5563 It's an interesting idea! I tried spherical/ball magnets for little conversion but in general I prefer the cylindrical ones: you get always more surface of contact than a sphere, even when they are really really small
I have used this technique before but without the PVA added. You just saved me a bunch of failed bases, thank you :D Also, unrelated question, which box do those Skaven come from?
Nice video^^ Did you have troubles with the reducing size of DAS once dried? you prevented the cracks, but I'm curious about the wet problem. Do you have a ratio about DAS/PVA? Didn't you have problema with the stickiness of DAS when creating the rounds with your MacGyver round cutter? Anyway MacGyver Always inspires^^
Thanks!!!😊😊😊 I have just a little bit of shrinking and that's another reason why I cut the toppers a bit larger than the final base. I usually understand the quote of PVA to add from the consistency (since every brand of pva has its own dilution) but if I have to name a ratio I would say 1:4/1:6 PVA/DAS. I have same trouble flatting the dough because of the stickiness but no problems at all in the cutting phase; the cutter is sharp, the surface is really small and the time of contact is really quick so the stickiness doesn't affect the process 😉
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thanks, I usually prefer the greenstuff about bases , but I'm going to realize some pavement for Building&co and I&m going to use DAS as a main cause I wanted to save a bit of Money. I had some experience in the lady about the DAS for similar usages but not had a quite good feedback, so your trovo about PVA combined to DAS saved me quite a lot of experiments.