Thanks Rob for the kind words; This video by far has been my most popular. I don't think I ever would have gotten enough subscribers to get monetized with out it. There is a part 2 on this video on how to press it back in if your interested: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jc3wCSxLl9A.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Sorry I took so long to reply to your very kind comment. That video has been by far my most popular and is largely responsible for my channels continued growth. Thanks so much for watching my channel.
Really nicely done! Great pointers here. I never thought of using the air hammer I have to remove the stuck bearing race...that was slick.. Also nice use of the bench vice. You are a great teacher also. Thanks so much for your help.
I just want to leave you this comment. I just Replaced the bearings and hub,The passenger side went well, The driver side took 3 times,,,. I went back to Study your video,The 1st time it bulged in the center, I used a flat brushing The 2nd time It Felled, because of a cheap Bearing.. the 3rd time I followed everything correctly, I kept a center pressure why putting in the hub the outside pressure pushing in, thank you for your help and a great video . your video is completely right. thank you for the in depth detail, car is running brand new. it's a Toyota Camry 2003:::: I never They can be kind of touchy, so be careful of the videos This video is good one. . thank you so much..🚘🙋♂️👍
@@richardspaulding5035 Wow thank you for saying that, I hope this new one I did right holds. It took 3 times I am a bearing expert now thank you for the comment
@@richardspaulding5035 Here's a better reply you have to be kind be careful and watch what you're doing they can be really touchy and make sure everything is right, slow and Thoroughly.the boer cleaned out Completely, and not too much grease and the right pressure on the bushings thank you🚘🙋♂️😊
I hope my video will be of help. Good luck with your repair, Please let me know how you make out. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks Filiberto; Before my retirement I always enjoyed sharing with the young people in my shop. Quite often when someone new was hired they would give them to me for the first few weeks. Thanks for taking the time to place a comment and thanks for watching my channel.
No need to remove knuckle from car. Use a slide hammer to remove hub, then use the bearing tool to remove bearing/race & then snap ring. Clean inner knuckle, then install new bearing, snap ring, hub using the bearing press tool. Just did 2 of them today.
About the price of buying stuff like this, my attitude is, if I can buy the tools I need to fix my own vehicle, where a shop would charge 2-5 times as much, then immediately, after 1st use, it's paid for. LOL This has worked out well for me. I plan on buying this kit soon too, BUT, there seem to be so many knockoffs out there and a few reviews that say that the big nut and bolt strip too easily.
Good content. I would recommend you using a puller instead of destroying your impact socket with a hammer. When using a bearing press, I'd recommend to put some lube on the both sides of the washer and the threads of the press rod. Just a thought. Keep up the great work!
Great job, I just purchased this kit and wanted to know if you turn the nit at the back or the bolt at the front. I was always thinking the nut at the back anyway. You are meant to grease your threads 100%. I'm going to do it with the hub on the car 1 less job.
Thanks tony; I am aware that the kit can be used on the car. In this instance I happened to be replacing some of the other components as this gave me the option to remove the entire knuckle with out much fuss. I thought perhaps it would be visually better for my viewers to demonstrate the kit on the bench. My mistake in the video was I failed to mention that it can as well be done on the car without removing the steering knuckle. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to clear that up and thanks for watching my channel.
They do make race bearing pullers. They are a tool that opens up in the center of in two pieces and two threaded rods on each side and then you tighten it together around the race and then you run a threaded rod through it and then cranked out it pulls it off
Thanks Anthony; I am aware that those tools exist. I learned the method in the video as a young mechanic in the 1970s before there were such tools available. I was taught by an old timer who was then, probably the same age I am now LOL.
Thanks for the kind words; This by far has been my most popular video. It is largely responsible for allowing my channel to become monetized. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, great comment as the kit can be used either way. In this instance I was replacing the control arm as well, so it was a very simple matter to remove the knuckle. I decided to show it out of the car for visual clarity. It is a good observation on your part as I can certainly be faulted for not adequately explaining that in the video. Thanks again, please by all means don't be a stranger.
Hi richard, thank you for this video, very informative and because of this video, i bought the same thing online. Question, i noticed on your video that the bearing, after the pressed, you put in a seal, can u share where can i buy it? Also i noticed was there no some form of metal tin ghat covers the assembly.
Thanks for the question Jay Jay; The seals I used did not come with the new bearing. You can purchase them at your local parts store. I got my seals at AutoZone. Just tell them the make, model and year of your car and say you want the front inner and outer wheel bearing seals. On some cars they have a steal cap that covers the axle nut. Let me know how your job goes. Do not over tighten your axle nut when you are done. You will need to look it up the spec. on line and use an torque wrench to finish. Let me know how the job goes. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Richard for the video . I have seen a lot of bearing press kits at all price range and the only complaint is the Bolt and the nut that comes with the kits. well there is a way to fix it go and find you a grad 8 bolt that is the same size that is in your kit then you can find a long grad 8 nut you can look for a store that sells specialty nuts an bolts or 4 realer grad 8 nuts and weld them together if you or some one you know that don`t have a welder you can go to a welding shop they can do it for you. I hope this help you .
Thanks for that information. It is very much appreciated. It is clear the kit is not for every day use such as in a repair shop, However for occasional use it is fine, Actually if you use it only once it pays for itself. I am retired now as I only service friends and family vehicles these days. I have only used my kit 3 times now it has held up so far
Hey Richard, thanks again for the video. I’m pressing out a bearing on a different car from last time. Which way does the bearing pop out on the knuckle? The hub side?
Thanks for the question Joseph, I apologize for taking so long to respond. When you are pressing out the bearing it will come out on the wheel side as if you are changing a tire. when you draw the bearing back in you will install it from the outside in as if you are putting the tire back on. I hope that answers your question.
Thanks for the comment; I am not sure how to respond to that, I am an old man, and I am not up with modern lingo. In saying you smashed it I am not sure what exactly you mean. I would like to believe smashed it means the job went well. I sincerely hope you did not smash the kit or the car.
Hub buster works better and if you have a welder you can make one pretty quickly. Slide hammer is better for pulling axle shafts. If you wanna pull hubs step up to a 10lbs or larger slide hammer. A really easy way to remove hubs is to use a cheap bottle jack or two. Thread the rotor onto the hub with the stud nuts, minus the wheel, and then just jack from the other side of the rotor. It'll push the hub out no sweat. Bottle jack is about $20 at harbor freight.
I am worried winnie that if I use an impact wrench the jack screw may not hold up over time. I have gotten comments from a number of people who have stripped the jack screw. These are very inexpensive kits that are not made for everyday use such as in a repair shop. Thanks for watching my video.
Thanks, most of the time purchasing a special tool so you can do a job yourself is far cheaper than going to a shop. Then you still have the tool. Even some of the simplest repairs these days approach $500 or more
@@demikitteraffegamers3493 Thanks for the information. As you saw on the video I really had to work for it. I am sure the lubrication will be of help next time..
I have to replace the backing plate on the front brakes on a Toyota. If I take off the hub and the race comes with it along with the hub is it possible to just press the hub and race back onto the original bearing or is the bearing toast once the race comes off with the hub. Bearing was only replaced last year so I know it's still good.
I believe some of those replacement backup plates come in 2 pieces making it un necessary to remove the hub. If you must remove the hub I would replace the bearing as the race and bearing are a sealed unit these days. Thanks for taking the time to place a comment and thanks for watching my channel.
@@richardspaulding5035 I can believe you actually reply to most of the comments Sir. That speaks volumes of who you are as a person. Not only your video was super helpful but all the advice you have given to people that asked questions. I'm learning a lot from you. I really appreciate you Sir. Hope you're enjoying your retirement 👍
Do the threads hold up to the pressure required to remove bearings in the rust belt. Some of them get quite stuck and a torch is required with a press.
I have not had any issues in that regard. The treads on the jack screw have held up so far as ii have always kept it lubricated. Keep in mind this kit was not made for everyday use such as it would be used in a regular repair shop. It is designed for occasional use only by a DIY driveway mechanic and is priced accordingly.
Hi Dan; thanks for your comment. I actually have impact tools however I am concerned that repeated use of an impact gun will eventually strip the jack screw. I have had several people complain to me about the jack screw failing and replacements not being available. These kits are not made for everyday use such as in a repair shop. I have had my kit for 3 years and I have only used it 4 times. I recommend keeping the screw lubricated and cranking it by hand only. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@richardspaulding5035 thanks for the info. Hey have you seen that new hub buster tool yet? It knocks the bearing loose in one or two hits. Not sure if it'll work on every bearing but I'm going to try something similar to do my wife's Subaru. Thanks again 👍🏼
@@dans4270 I think I have seen it . If it is what I am thinking about it bolts on to the hub while still in the car. It has a square tube that sticks out about 10 inches or so then you hit down on it with a big hammer. I am sure it will work better than my slide hammer. I will get one. thanks dan
Hello sir I just bought a bearing peas kit and I’m pressing out of 2008 scion tc and I seen a lot of people with Scion Xb and the press from he front to back and i noticed you did from back to front I just don’t know which is the correct way to
It depends on the vehicle and how it is designed. The car in the video was a Nissan and that was the only way on that model it could be done. Other manufactures may design the component differently, so that it has to be pressed out from the front. So to answer your question both ways may be correct.
Question: Would using slide hammer to pull out the hub, while on the car, would damage the other side's bearing? because its transmitting energy to the other side wheel? if car is on ground of course. I did my left bearing this way, and now the right bearing started making noise.
sorry I did not get back to your sooner, I don't see how that is possible, last couple of times I have had to replace bearings I had to do both sides anyway, if you think about it both bearings would have same miles on the same roads, it is reasonable to think both would go around same time. thanks for watching my vidio
No, you won't harm the other bearing. After removing the CV axle nut you want to make sure the axle is not seized to the hub so the axle will slide free of the hub when the hub is removed. Generally you would remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle or if you can remove the bolts from the ball joint to the lower control arm and remove the axle from the hub then put the ball joint back in the steering knuckle or reconnect the ball joint to lower control arm (just enough to hold it firmly but not torqued down) then use the sliding hammer to remove the hub. The axle could be left in place while pulling the hub if it is free to slide but you would still have to remove the axle either way in order to remove the old bearing and install the new bearing.
Yes Chris, Thanks for the question. I had a wrench holding the nut in the front while I turned the rod from the back side. Evidently, I failed to mention that in the video. More than 700,000 views and you are the first to notice that. Fantastic question, thanks so much. please by all means do not be a stranger.
I have seen people do that, however I don't and I do not recommend it. I have had several complaints from users that the jack screw has worn out. This kit was not designed for every day use. I would try to protect the screw by using lubrication and turning it only by hand.
Instead of needing a vise to hold the knuckle you could have left it all attached to the car and used the tool to remove the bearing and hub together. The use a puller to remove the bearing. I would also keep the various bearing parts to use as pushers in the futur.
Thanks, I am aware the knuckle can be left in rhe car. In this instance I removed it for visual clarity. However that is a great tip about saving the old bearings.
Thanks howard; Always a great suggestion. I made that video about 5 years ago and I thought I had mentioned that. I am going to watch it again. I was on the safety committee for my shop over a 20 year span. We where not even allowed in the building without them on. I am horrified when I see people using power tools with no protection. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching my channel. (don't be a stranger)
Surprisingly they are not metric. For the screw end it is a 1-1/8 socket and for the nut end it is a 1-1/4 socket. I am sorry, I must not have included that information in the video. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching my channel.
@@richardspaulding5035 right down to the tone brought me back , just paid 392$ rental at o'rileys for the tool all money back after I use it and I'll be referring any of my friends to this video. Also anyone looking for these tools cheaper and too keep (like myself) 80$ online for decent quality removal and installation kit
Thanks for your question John, As far as I know the kit is only necessary for replacing the front wheel bearings. The rear hub assembly which includes the rear bearings simply unbolts and is replaced as a unit on most front wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles. Thanks for watching my channel.
Two things I learned the hard way: 1. Dip the jack screw in used motor oil beforehand. It’ll protect the threading. 2. Add a small thrust bearing to the kit. It’ll make the tightening much smoother.
Thanks for the suggestions; I have been lubricating my jack screw however your suggestion of adding a trust bearing interests me. I am going see what size I need and look into getting one it. Thanks for watching my channel.
