How to use The Pathfinder Alcohol Stove with the Gen2 Firebox Stove: getting the 1" clearance 

Thanks!!

Lol I haven’t used mine in a really long time either

Me too haha! Thank you so much for watching Chuck, will try and add some more videos using these things!

+William Burr exactly, I love the versatility of both for sure! Thank you for watching

Thanks for watching and you'll love it when you get it! It's a great combo to that stove!

It sure is! Thanks for watching! It's a lot of fun testing it out and using it with different combinations!

It sure is, amazing piece of kit

Yes you do! You'll love it! Thanks for watching

Man it is unreal how long that stove burns, have used it filled up for a whole weekend and didn't fill it up. Was pretty much empty by Sunday morning but still! Thanks for watching man!

That is Nathan Mayfield, Fellowship Around the Fire is his YT channel and Instagram

+John McLean thank you for watching, I imagine using a lighter would be harder but I usually just strike my ferro rod to light it

What I mean is - I can get the fuel to ignite but the flame keeps going out because not enough air can get to it. Try it and let me know how you get on.

+John McLean ahh ok I got ya now. I'll give it a shot and let you know

+James Ritchie well with this stove it can actually hold 3-4 cast iron Dutch ovens on top of it, there's a video out there showing it. If you add the wide grill plate on it, you can boil 2 cups at once, my buddy Nathan Mayfield has a video on it. It surprisingly gives off a lot of heat and I mainly use it for wood burning, the wife and I have used it as a make shift fire pit to warm up by. This is a very heavy duty stove, I just wanted to show one example of cooking with it of the many available. It folds up flat which for me is perfect because I have to carry in what I'm going to use or put it in my kayak most times, and a big outdoor grill is just crazy to think of bringing unless I'm car camping at a state park, then I have the kitchen sink too

Thank you for watching

351WINCHESTER. In my testing of various burners I've handmade, I can, THEORETICALLY, confirm that you are correct about the PF campared to the Trangia (I don't own either) because I have found that the volume of fuel being heated affects the flame size/temperature output of a burner, which inversely affects the fuel efficiency of the burner, ... and so, I have concluded that the most fuel efficient burner would be a small, thin walled burner with a remote feeder (since a small burner will prime much faster -saving fuel economy, and because of the smaller circumference of the flame pattern, direct more heat closer to the core of the pot, for better heating efficiency- and maintain a constant level of consumption throughout the process- allowing you to stop the flow of fuel at any point-thus saving fuel in that way as well). Here's why: The thickness of the burner's metal affects the heat retention of the burner itself (as opposed to the cook pot). We know that a hotter fuel fluid increases vapor production & consumption (through flame size), in turn, creating more heat by merely observing a burner prime to bloom every time we light it. How much of this heat being produced is being retained by the burner to enable the flame to continue, and how much is being released? (preferably into a lidded pot and surrounding windscreen, in order to..... retain the heat where we want it retained, in the pot). In addition, the size of the jet holes affect the compression of the fuel vapors escaping the burner. And not only that, but their orientation (whether on the side of the burner- pointed out sideways, or tilted upwards-, on the top- pointed straight up, or on the inside piece- creating a built in windscreen) directly affects how much of the pot the flames come into direct (or indirect) contact with, to transfer the heat to the pot, for low and slow cooking or quickly boiling water. Where vapor compression is important is in the so called "sweet spot" height. While 1" is thought to be "perfect", the truth is that the "perfect" distance between the burner and bottom of a larger pot is determined by how much vapor compression your individual burner makes (which is also a product of the current environmental variables of ambient temperature, humidity, altitude, and barometric pressure at the time of lighting the burner). The truth is, there is no one "perfect" burner. Each burner I have made has different qualities that make them useful for different applications, by employing different mods to the burners, in order to achieve different tasks with them, under various weather conditions. Because reaching a bloom quickly is vastly superior to having to wait for a long time (in terms of fuel consumption/economy), I believe it is best to prime a burner with priming fluid spilled around the outside of the burner, or on an exterior wick wrap at the base in almost every case (except for a capillary hoop stove/burner that lights up almost instantly, because of the exceedingly high central heating fuel volume to compression chamber fuel volume ratio) Because "HEAT RETENTION/EFFICIENCY" IS the name of the game, a windscreen and pot lid are MUST HAVE items to modify your cook kit, since they hold in the heat that would otherwise escape use. A highly variable height pot stand is another mod I have to use in my setup (because, of course, my burner's are different diameters, heights, and thicknesses, not just different burner jet numbers, jet hole diameter, or materials: aluminum or stainless steel).