How To - Using Resin/Epoxy to Create Inlays

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How to use resin to create lays. This is a follow up from the preview video about making a resin inlay where I describe in more detail the process I use to make inlays with resin. This process is more simple, and easier to implement. If you are interested in more details, check out my previous video:
• Using epoxy and wood i...
Check out my other resin videos:
• Making Drink Coaster E...
• Making a Pumpkin Epoxy...
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Опубликовано:

15 дек 2018

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Комментарии : 29

@TD3DMakes 5 лет назад

Hey, that's neat. I just got my MPCNC running a month ago and haven't used it much. This looks like an excellent project to try out. Thanks for sharing!

@3dmedicvince449 5 лет назад

Looks like a great way to jazz up projects with colored resin

@ronnyi3714 Год назад

Thanks- I’m coming 3D print space and just got a small Bantam CnC looking to do small gifts etc. with in lay with epoxy

@cyberreefguru Год назад

I've heard good things about that machine - I hope the videos help. Thanks for watching!

@awesomepugboy1154 5 лет назад

Cool

@dptp9lf 3 года назад

Great project and i'm sure it scored you many points... LOL my question, i'm doing a small table top... i want to do the resin pour and cure etc. then flatten the whole top with my CNC. Do you see any problems with this as far as the cured resin chipping etc. or does it machine well?

@cyberreefguru 3 года назад

Hi Lyle - thanks for watching. I've not seen any issues with milling resin. I've used an inexpensive spoil board bit as well as a relatively expensive slab flattening bit with equal results. I generally face at 100ipm and that generates decent results, but that depends on your machine. If you do want to flatten with the CNC, then you will need to over pour to get a greater thickness so the machine does not mill to the bare wood. Best of luck!

@mikeATgrowintheglass 3 года назад

would you recommend using the cnc to plane down the top if you don't have a thickness planer or have snipe issues?

@cyberreefguru 3 года назад

Perhaps - depends on how big of a board you are talking about. A good CNC will cost far more than an excellent thickness planer.

@keithdmaust1854 3 года назад

This was exactly what I was looking for. Good video. Learned a lot. Thanks! I'm going to attempt an inlay into a chair rail. Once I get closer to the project I may have some specific questions. FYI - In the intro if you had given a brief description of what your channel was about I might have subscribed...

@cyberreefguru 3 года назад

Hello Keith - thank you for the suggestion. It's not too late to subscribe! :)

@keithdmaust1854 3 года назад

@@cyberreefguru Oh, ok...

@keithdmaust1854 3 года назад

Subscribed. BTW what type of engineer are you? Just curious.

@cyberreefguru 3 года назад

@@keithdmaust1854 Recovering EE; mostly just PowerPoint these days ;)

@dreamwoodcustomacoustics7768 2 месяца назад

What brand and type of epoxy to use. Thanks

@cyberreefguru 2 месяца назад

Depends on the application -- shallow pours I use Total Boat High Performance Medium; 1-2" pours I use Super Clear 24 Liquid Glass, and deep pours I use Super Clear Liquid Glass Deep Pour. Hope this helps -- thanks for watching!

@rehabihab8614 3 года назад

Should i leave the first transparent layer to dry before i put the colored one??

@cyberreefguru 3 года назад

Hi Réhab - you can pour the second layer once the first layer is tacky (can indent it with your figure, but no resin comes off on your figure), or after the first layer is completely cured. If you let it cure, you need to scuff up the first layer (e.g., light sanding w/ 120 grit sandpaper) before pouring the next layer to ensure a properly bond. If you don't scuff the first layer, the second layer will not adhere properly and will likely separate at some point. Thanks for watching!

@kmd9999 3 года назад

If you like the video give it a thumbs up, if you don't like the video give it a thumbs up anyway.

@cyberreefguru 3 года назад

Yeppers!

@eyrie08 3 года назад

How do you keep the resin from sucking into the wood and having your pour sink in?

@cyberreefguru 3 года назад

Hi - thanks for watching! You have a couple different options. 1 - seal the wood with a coat of epoxy before pouring (use a small brush to cover the areas); 2 - use sanding sealer to pre-treat the wood; 3 - simply over pour a little and remove the excess material once dry. Hope this helps!

@sinukuan.woodworks 2 года назад

Hi, how do you sand the resin inlay with the wood?

@cyberreefguru 2 года назад

Hello - I sand the wood/epoxy to 220 then sand the epoxy parts to 320 and wet sand to 1000 or 2000. If you can't sand the epoxy separately, you can sand everything to 1000 without a problem. Hope that helps - thanks for watching!

@chrispile3878 23 часа назад

Should have stained the oak to make the pink more obvious.

@cyberreefguru 5 часов назад

Fair point -- I'd probably do maple or walnut if I were to do it again - thanks for watching!

@zacbee8122 5 лет назад

any tips for sanding after the resin is cured?

@cyberreefguru 5 лет назад

I've found using the planer is much faster. But you have don't have a planer, then sand with a belt sander to flatten the resin, then use mesh sand paper to smooth to 400 grit (or higher depending on what you are finishing with). Either this amzn.to/2EG1GKg or this amzn.to/2KdgFPp will work. I have the course grit set and it works OK - I don't see them lasting 5x longer than regular paper, but they don't clog like regular paper either. Hope this helps! -Tom