Instructions say, right there on the bottle, that proportions are by volume not by weight. Most epoxies also tell you whether you should add B to A or A to B. Finally, if you use an epoxy that dries fully clear, you can test pigments in water poured to the final depth to determine how much to use in the epoxy without wasting epoxy or waiting for it to cure. If your epoxy isn't as clear as water, that won't work as well. Just add a measured amount of pigment to a measured amount of water that will be the same volume as the epoxy you plan to mix, then pour the colored water into a pocket equivalent to where you will put the epoxy in terms of depth, color of backing material, etc. Repeat until you get the color you are looking for, then use the same amount of pigment in the epoxy.
It turned out great! I wish you had showed the whole process until it was finished. Maybe another video! Did you do a video of making that little box? If not, would you do that some time? I really liked it. Nice job.
I do colored epoxy inlays frequently. often with multiple colors. One of the things I have learned is that if you seal the pockets with a white pigmented wood sealer. This gives a much more accurate color (similar to the color in the mixing cup). Without the white background, the poured epoxy reflects the color of the wood behind it. This process also prevents color bleed of the epoxy into the grain of the wood.
Great concept, but did you keep the Origin and the work piece on the same level? I see the box is quite thick . I thought it might be possible to just add some blocks around the piece to allow the Origin to scan the dominoes without tipping over. Your comments would ne much appreciated. Thanks.
The problem most resin users commit is using weight versus volume. The hardener and resin DO HAVE different chemical compositions that differ in weight.
Just wow ! Seeing part A go in with Part B ... I mean.. how cool is that ! and you painted it right onto the routed areas . Hopin I never forget how to do this !
@@cliffart7398 Dude, what he means is also that you fuck up the measurepent as the resin is fluid and a considerable amont stays in the container when you mix them! Much better do as bob suggests.
The 1:1 ratio is by volume not by weight. The two parts have different densities which means a pound of each will not have the same volume. Be careful when you measure quantities by weight.
An easier way to mix epoxy is to zero the cup, add #1, then zero again and add #2. Then add color if you like. I’ve used spray pain, testers model paint and food dye. Model airplane pain is my pref for small jobs. I also sit my mixes in warm water to make them flow easier. Mostly I do custom plaques
I am wanting to try this on a game board. Your video answered a lot of my questions...thanks. I do want to know how you finished the epoxy after the sanding to bring it back to luster.
Total weight divided by the mix ratio = weight of part A...to be followed by part B up to the full weight. Example....an epoxy has an optimal mic ration of 1:28 A/B 10 grams total weight of mixed epoxy desired. 10/1.28=7.8 Zero out scale WITH CUP on top. Pour in 7.8 grams of part A Pour in part B to bring it up to 10 grams.
Nice finished box. I like to do my work with the pieces on parchment paper or a cutting board made of UHMW to keep my table clean. Also consider getting a pressure pot to take out the bubbles.
@@mykhelderian I use a paint pressure pot I bought at Harbor Freight. When you put the item in the pot and pressurize it to 40 # the pressure forces the air out of the epoxy. just search for pressure pot on RU-vid and you can find instructions on how to set it up.
After the sanding did you put a finish (top coat) on the entire box? If so, did the finish take evenly or did you have some problems to deal with? Thanks
For anybody attempting this, put the pigment into part A and it get it to the color you want before mixing A & B so that you don’t waste valuable working time while messing with the color.
Very nice job. Here a question that I haven't found an answer to. Could you have applied a stain to the box after you sanded the Epoxy flat and then apply a finish. I am making a Maple Table that I want a Black Epoxy Compass Rose ,CNC into, but I want the surrounding wood stained to match the interior of a RV Van. What do you think?
You could, but I think a stain would change the appearance of the epoxy even so lightly unless you wipe the stain off that portion. That was my concern on the recent boat table I built. See video on my channel.
A couple quick thoughts; for us novices it would help if you showed (each of) the labels a tad longer so we can note the products used. Also you didn't show the turn out of the initials on the lid, much can be learned there. Your final coat/stain application was left out too. The end product does look real pretty. Altho' details make a better presentation... just sayin'.
video was great all the way till you finished sanding? no commentary or finishing and the letters.? Keep the quality of the video same start to finish with explanations. End result was nice. How did you get there?
@@petebuehn7789 does the same weight not add up to the same volume, i was actually thinking why use 2 pot`s when you could have zeroed the scales then put the same weight of second one in saving all them pots.
I wondered that too ...and why using weight measurement not liquid measurement , if both are the same consistency it would be ok ...but anyway it does look nice , great idea
I don't understand why anyone uses two cups to measure A and B and then mix- you lose some of the resin you are pouring from one cup to another. You can pour, for example, 50 grams of A into the cup and then just add another 50 grams of B while it is on the scale and get a better mix. the only time it is necessary to do separate cups is when they mix by volume and not weight.
