Can I do this with a board that has stickers on it? My friend gave a really cool board that has a sick look to it but I think it may be stickers or something and idk if it would come off with the chemicals that this needs
@@NolimitClub_ scrape them with a scraper, no chemicals though, and I know water can be a fit funny with skateboards so maybe only a slight amount to help things along, but very very little, if you can scrape most of it dry that will be best and then sand the rest as smooth as you can, it should work. If you don’t mind the texture, you don’t have to fully remove them, if you get at least 80% off and have a bit of a sand, the gesso layer will be fine over the top and once dried go ahead with your design 👌🙌
For a skateboard this is the issue that happens a lot and I did get it on mine also. The solution is to fill it first and make it air tight, on my next one I will do this.
Yep, make it air tight. I’ve gone as far as using kiltz. Also, clean really well ahead of time because those larger spots are usually oils from your hands!😮 I had it when that happens, but you just add a new layer. Easy peasy! Resin is my nemesis. I have two large service dogs that I need with me, so I’m constantly looking for dog hair 🐶
@@NicMachey so this happened to me. I sanded down the surface a bit with 320 grit sandpaper and going to do a 2nd pour on top. What do you mean by “fill it first and keep it air tight?”
@@2222ben I was confused myself by what I meant! For a second 😂😂 Ahaha but now I see, the main issue on the skateboard specifically was that the resin parted where the holes are on the board, making bigger dips, where the tracks would go and get screwed into place. So I meant that I would fill those holes to make it completely smooth. But to avoid reactions if to make sure the surface is clean and all paint and previous varnish has been fully dried and fully cured, at least 24 hours or even 48 hours to be on the safe side before resin-ing. And also to stir the resin very very well and pour the mixture into a new cup and stir again before pouring, this will ensure no unmixed parts will remain. 👌👌
@@NicMac ohhh I see thanks for quick reply. So I have already filled in the holes before I painted it so that’s alright but I had slightly different levels of paint cus of different painting methods used so I think that made some of the problems. But yeah I have loads of random reactions all over that may have been because I sanded areas of the paint to fix mistakes and didn’t clean it enough. I’m gonna use ur new cup technique and the glove spread technique this time with a thin coat and then maybe another thin coat if it needs it. Thanks for the help!!
Depends what you’re doing after…. If you’re using it as a skateboard it will start to wear earlier than the paint will as the markers are not ‘permanent markers’ …….if you don’t seal them before brushing varnish on, it will smudge. Hope that helps
Random question if my painting on a skateboard has a matt finish if i resin it will it bring it to that mirror gloss or not . Ive painted it with acrylics but some of the shades are matt as the white I used to mix most colours is a flat white . Ino that posca is fairly matt so I thought you may know ? Thanks 🙏
@@soakandshine92 make sure you let whatever finish you have put on, to fully cure, at least 3 full days to be on the safe side 👌 but yes, it should work a treat! I wish you good luck as it can be tricky but it’s worth it👌👌
@@NicMac thanks for the quick reply! No worries I just misunderstood! Thank you for the clarification! All in all a great video! Thanks for sharing your process!
