I've been searching for this information for a while now and this video is perfect! Plus, she's super cute, super smart, and super articulate. Perfect combo! Thanks.
Great video, thumbs up. Your so knowledgeable. I feel like you have notes while doing this but you flow with the information so well it's hard to tell. You relay the information great aswell. This channel will grow huge just keep doing what your doing.
@@PicturePerfectLawnMaintenance absolutely and maybe you already covered this topic. What do each of the rounds look like, how many rounds is typical. Which require you to use some ppe, which not so much. I seen your pest treat ment is super friendly so not alot of ppe there. A day in the life of an applicator. Thanks in advance.
Love the video! I’m moving into a house goods summer and so excited to take care of a yard I’ve been in an apartment for 12 years! Can’t wait to get into lawn care! Idea for a video unless I haven’t found it. A full calendar of what I should do each month to take care of a certain grass type. Fescue preferably for me obviously but regardless great work and thank you!
We will see what we can do. The problem with that even though we talk about one certain type of grass, there are so many different ways to care for it. It really depends on what part of the country you live in.
In Ohio, going on 10 days of mid 90's and no rain. Lawn recently sodded with tall fescue, areas are starting to brown out. Great info in your videos, will be doing the screwdriver test and will stop watering in the evening 🥺
Yeah, please stop watering at night. That is the easiest way to control fungus. When water is left on the lawn overnight it is a perfect environment for fungus. Early in the morning is the best time.
I water my tall fescue 3 times a week In the summer time and 1 time a week in the fall and Apply Milorganite in Memorial day Fourth of July Labor Day Thanksgiving, and my lawn stays green all year
Thanks for the video, and especially for addressing the notion of "opting out". Here in Hillsborough, NC, the water is crazy expensive. At this point I'm planning to water when/if I see signs of heat stress.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad that part of the video was beneficial to you; I think a lot of pros get stuck on "ideal" scenarios and forget that most people have real obstacles that require compromise! Watering like you have planned when it's only necessary is actually a beneficial option to training your lawn's roots to drive deeply in search of water. Do you have TTTF, or a warm season grass?
@@PicturePerfectLawnMaintenance I've got tall fescue. We're actually looking at getting a couple of hose bibs added (house currently has 2) so that I can have a bunch of hoses/sprinklers in place with a 3-4 outlet electronic controller at each outlet (14-16 zones total). Then we'd just have hoses & sprinklers that pretty much stay in place (with some shifting to avoid killing the grass in spots), so I can avoid the pain of dragging hoses all over the yard.
@@sowellfan just remember when you add a lot of hoses you can lose water pressure if they are on at the same time. Most irrigation systems allow many heads because they have smaller nozzles to allow for this.
What do you recommend to get deeper root growth in clay soils? I have blue marine clay after 4”-6” of the loam I put down. Just liquid aeration and fertilizer?
Liquid aeration is always a good way to start. We wouldnt be afraid to use liquid aeration a couple of times of year. If you have access to a mechanical aerator this would be a good way to break it up some in the fall. Let us know what you try!
Hi! If I’m in dense shade, should my water requirement be any less? Since I’m shade, I’m wondering if the threat of heat stress is less of a factor for me since I don’t get direct sunlight, or is it temperature based, and shade is irrelevant?
Sometimes it is actullay worse. It just depends on how dry it is in your area. The trees are going to drink a lot of water if it is dry. The trees are huge and will always take the water that they need first.
We have 15000 sf of TTTF-KBG-Rye mix. No in ground system. In NE PA . It just cost to much $ with city water . Thanks for the info. We will try to water if necessary, but it’s a PIA
Thanks for sharing your set up with us! That cost does make it difficult, but at least PA soil is good for the type of turf you're growing. Have you had to adjust your fert program to drive roots or anything to adjust for not watering much?
Great video, I was a little confused about the zone rotation. I have never heard about it before. I understand you are saying to water your lawn early and measure the amount needed to hit the .5-1.5 inch per week. In your example you were stating that zones 1-3 needed 20 mins and zone 4 needed 30 mins, 3 days a week to be in the .5-1.5 inch ranges. You stated that with zone rotation you would cut that time in half. Are you saying that each zone should run 2 x per watering day? Basically starting zone 1 over again as soon as zone 4 is complete?
That is correct. Run all of your zones half of the needed times. Run through all of your zones. Once your last zone has run start back at zone 1 for half the time again. For instance if it takes you 20 minutes per zone to get the correct amount of water run your zone 10 minutes 2 times. You will use the same amount of water. We like to explain it like this. If you take a planter and pour a gallon of water at one time the planter will only take but so much water before it starts to run over. If you take that same gallon of water and only pour half of it in there and let it soak in then come back 5 minutes later and pour the other half in it will take all of the water. Same amount of water but it will all get into the soil. Hope this helps clarify
What do u do when u have 15 zones, and need to run it 30 min per zone…I start my irrigation on at midnight to end by 7:30 am…I guess my fescue is going to have fungus :/
14:35 if a lawn is under watered, and you neglect to wake up at 5am to water your lawn, should a person water at night when they come home at night? Given the choice between not watering at all, and watering at night….Neither is optimal, but I would think watering at night is better than not watering, especially if you don’t have a $10K+ automatic in ground watering system.
Good video. But you're repeating the same old stuff everyone else is saying. Which is why I've failed when following it. I live in upstate NY. And my little area of town has these specific conditions: - Sandy Soil - VERY hot & dry summers (June - 1st week in September) - Mostly cloudless skies in these summer months (I call them death skies) Watering 1 1/2" deeply a couple times per week WILL NOT WORK!!!! for this combination of sandy soil, extreme heat, and sunny death skies. The water you put down in the morning will be sucked out of the sandy soil before noon time. And skipping a day will cause the soil to completely dry out. Through lots of experimentation. What works best here is this: - Tall grass (over 3") - DAILY watering in the mornings for about 30mins. Since our soil is so sandy and doesn't hold water at all. I've discovered that tall wet grass works as a vapor barrier to prevent that evaporation problem. Many people here skip watering and let it go dormant and brown. But that comes with a heavy cost. It's so hot, and so dry, that some of the grass dies when letting it go dormant like that. And what happens is that over the course of a few seasons the grass gets thinner, and thinner, and thinner. And eventually the weeds take over. Those three hot, dry, and sunny months absolutely DESTROY our lawns. Every single year! So we're FORCED to waste a ton of water here for three months just to keep a good looking lawn the rest of the year...It's awful...And it's stupid. The entire town would need some kind of huge summer sun shielding dome to stop this cycle of wasting water for the grass. I've been trying to think of an alternative to grass. But none of the alternatives look very attractive to me. :-(
Hi Scott, thanks for your feedback! We deal with very sandy soil here in VA too, and most days sit in the mid 90s during the summer. It makes it very difficult to sustain fescue, which is why we say so much in this video that these are the baseline recommendations. Factors such as shade, soil composition, grading, the area's water table, and more all change the needs of every yard. This is part of why a soil focused fertilizer program is so important to improve the soil's ability to retain water and nutrients. At least it's almost August, and the end is in sight!
@@PicturePerfectLawnMaintenance While watering every single morning has worked the best. It still doesn't work well enough :-( July is the worst month here. Constant 85+ days. Lows in the mid 70's. And many 90+ days too......We're being cooked. I can nurse the grass through most of July with lots of water. But by the end of the month it's exhausted, and has no more fight left in it. And we still have all of August to deal with!! I just started caring for my grass and my elderly neighbor's grass two years ago. But after 2 years of this BS I'm now looking around and wondering why we even have grass here in the first place. It's NEVER going to work with these kinds of brutal summers. Yet I seem to be the only person that gets this. Everyone seems to be asleep, or in some sort of blind trance about it. My neighbor uses Tall Fescue and swears by it. But his grass is burnt badly too. Even with watering. It's just not working for anyone in my area. We need some kind of shields or A/C for the grass for these summer months. I wish I could somehow cover it all up and protect it somehow for July & August. When I hear people wishing for clear blue skies I just want to slap them. ;-)
If you'd have native species of grass or "weeds" you wouldn't have to use a single drop of water. So wasteful, you could've used that water for a tree or something.
