it has been over a year since I did all my bathroom except the bathtub walls - bought the "green" drywall, now need to get the 1/4 hardybacks, and water proof and install.. all by Monday while I have a full-time job - probably won't be done. But there is wood behind my house.
What is best construction adhesive to utilize attaching QVEDecors composite shower panels. Their instructions state using green board with a non product specific construction adhesive along with provided double sided tape. . I got Locktite tub&Surround and LiquidNails Premium and using GE silicone around perimeter. Thanks for advice
Great question. I did patch mine out of habit from drywall and realized I missed a row above the shower head now I’ve got the same question. Do I need to remix mortar just for those 🤦🏽♂️
After building hundreds of showers over the years, I still prefer the Shluter Kerdi system with a mud bed. I've had bonding issues with the roll on waterproofing that had to be resolved before I could tile. That is a huge mess to get into. I also recommend the mud bed and Shluter drain due to having so many of the plastic pans crack (usually around the drain area) and ruin the subfloor underneath.
I prefer to use the kerdi mat over hardi backer. Red guard can work. But hardi backer must be completely clean and dust free. I would vacuum it off real good then take a damp sponge and wipe off all the dust wringing sponge out frequently. Let hardi backer dry out completely (24hrs or so) then apply red guard as recommended. After drying check real good for any loose red guard. If there are any bubbles gently cut around them getting all loose red guard off then reapply red guard to that area.
@@roughboygarage1475 thank you for the response and advice. I will make sure to clean it and vacuum it very well. I had hoped for Kerdi but it ended up being out of budget in this one.
@@LogosFarm yeah it’s called flexcolour. Kind of annoying to put on but is really water resistant and won’t change colour. Just make sure you stir it well before using it the liquid separates a bit when it sits in the warehouse
@@TheExcellentLaborer well... the drywallers mudded and taped my shower boards with drywall mud and paper tape. Off to a great start =] The boards clean up nicely though with a wet sponge!
I just used the hardie backer hydro defense on my walk in shower up to 8ft and I siliconed all seams then applied redguard ontop of the whole thing as a piece in mind it came out amazing!
@@bluelude2001Roll on membrane will work still even on drywall. Thinset, tile and grout….If it’s tiled properly how much water penetration would you actually expect? By the time the tile gets removed in 20 years who cares if there’s a tiny bit of water damage on the drywall anyway….
Throw some caulk in the seams and call it a day no one is buying all this unnecessary material that is super expensive and no home owner even knows about this
Nice, thank you. I am renovating my bathroom because of water rot in the subfloor and some studs and I can not pay for the pros. So, your videos help so much, thank you! I installed GoBoard with sealant (because it's lightweight and it's just me). I am planning on using the Aquadefense. Question: is it ok to paint on some of the coated areas that will not have tile? If so, what type of paint would you recommend? I'm a rookie, so God Bless whoever buys the house and renovates after me. I left a bottle of rum, some extra screws, and a level behind one of the walls as an apology.
I’m in the same boat. I was thinking about using the more rubberized one. My shower is on an exterior wall and my thinking is the rubbery layer will expand and contract with the wood as the temp changes. 🤷♂️
@@brandenfweeif your walls are insulated with vapour barrier why would you be worrying about contraction and expansion regardless of the waterproofing method used?
I used concrete primer (maybe called concrete bonding adhesive in the US?) before waterproofing. It seals the concrete first and leaves a nice surface for the waterproofing membrane.
I did 2 showers that will never leak - i put the Schluter membrane over moisture resistant drywall and plywood floor and than Red Guard over that before Schluter shower pans and than tiling. A bit overkill but I was redoing showers that were leaking after ten years and I did not want any comebacks. Using drywall felt just as solid as cement board once you get the tiles on. Not sure why installers are still using cement board? Im doing my master bath -- might try the AquaDefense this time. Cheers
I actually used a foam slope and painted aqua defense directly onto the foam shower pan, bench, curb and walls. No membrane, and it passed a flood test.
3:38….see all that work he’s doing ? That will exacerbate your 60 year old shoulder problems? Tell you how to do it. And not beat yourself up. Get a box of rubber gloves and one of those 99 cent chip brushes. Open the can, and grab a handful of that stuff in each hand. And just smear it on the wall. Work top to bottom, use a stool , so you don’t have to stoop. To pick up sealant, or reach too high. Do about a third of the shower….all top. Smear it all out evenly….it’s no like paint. It’s really thick. Take your gloves off and use your chip brush to texture and smooth it out more. Do the same for the middle and bottom. You can do the whole damn thing in less than an hour.
I'm a small GC from Canada. I am a site super for commercial jobs, and have a small crew that does residential work. Great channel. I'm doing my bathroom right now. Debating using one of these systems.
Great to hear I have a GC watching my channel! In my opinion either system is fine they are so similar it really doesn’t matter to me which one I use. If color is important to you so you can see things easier that might be a reason to go with one or the other. Thanks for watching!
Mortar not being dry and than having a water proof barrier applied on top can trap any remaining moisture in mortar between the barrier and your Hardin backer. I’d recommend letting it dry 100%
My son in law is redoing his bathroom. He wasn't very careful and got many spots of the Mapelastic AquaDefense in the tub. I tried helping him today, and I scrubbed and scrubbed but the spots wouldn't come off! Any advice please? Thank you.
Enjoy watching your videos!!! there is another one from the same company called Mapelastic CI which is much cheaper vs Mapelastic aquadefence. I don't know it can replace the aquadefence for shower waterproofing?
0% chance you applied that thick enough. I know RedGaurd specs. 2.3mm per coat using a notched trowel. You brushed and rolled that on almost as thin as paint.
i used aquadefense 3 years ago and it worked perfectly. i had 1/2 a gallon left over and it was the same as when i opened it, went on perfect but i had to buy another gallon to finish the job. this latest gallon was a lot lighter in color and it was really runny but went on and hardened but had to use more of it do to it being so thin. i had 3/4 of a gallon left and 2 months after i went to use it again it was as hard as a rock . can you tell me if this was suppose to happen because it didnt with the last one. im finding since the pandemic everything has doubled in price and the quality of everthing has gone to hell.
Hey Tim! I do both. I build spec houses on property own. Then sell for a profit. I also will build houses and live in them and sell them. Hope that helps!
I’m building my own house now and I’m almost done. I drive semi truck and would love to get off the road and be home more. Having trouble if I build a house as home owner build then I believe I have to stay in it for one year before I can sell is this the same in your area or how do you get around the one year wait?
Most other videos that I've seen for waterproofing a shower, they use those thin sheets of fabric anywhere where there is a corner or edge or crease, etc. Surprise to see it wasn't applied in this video. They specifically changed the color of the aquadefence product to a light blue so that the fabric could show through it. also, it is not recommended to apply a "thick" application of the product, although you don't want it too thin either. In Mapei's video they specify it should end up being about the thickness of a credit card once applied (I haven't yet measured the thickness of the credit card) I think this video makes a good point of not applying a layer of product that is overly thin, but at the same time you do not want the product to be ticker than the thickness of a credit card, because it may not dry sufficiently between first and second coat and also may result in cracking...
Have you put the fabric on before? I have and a rolled on membrane is way easier, cleaner and just as effective. If you have drywall up, the fabric is the way to go. Even then, back in the day I suppose redguard over drywall was also a common occurrence.
The nice thing about using this product besides water proofing, it does help applying tile and the mastic or thinset to not cure so quickly. Great notations on the safety as well especially wearing older clothes. Great job.
That’s a great point David! You are so right about that. Whenever I install floor tile it will set up much quicker because the cement board pulls the moisture right out of it. The waterproofing definitely keeps the barrier there so the moisture doesn’t get pulled so quick. Yes safety is always very important to me. Thanks for stopping by again!
Great job, can you do video on dealing with wet fog and dryrot WHDN you tear out the shower pan…I’m planning to do bath remodel I’m in Calif older home with cast iron piping.
Plumbing tip: replace any steel or iron SUPPLY piping that you expose or can access in a remodel with copper or even PEX (don’t bury sharkbite connectors in a wall, use another type) It’s easy to do and much less expensive while you can get to it than having to come back later! Good condition DRAIN/WASTE/VENT plumbing in cast iron ought to continue to work for decades if it was well installed and the joints are good. Make sure it’s not partially blocked.
You SHOULD NOT apply a waterproofing barrier (aquadefense or redgard) to the shower floor if you have a mortar base and pan liner already in place. The pan liner already does the job - adding waterproofing on top of the mortar would just create a moisture issue between your pan liner and your newly applied waterproofing. Thats what i've read anyway
@@TheExcellentLaborer I used to intall them- They'll last a long time if done correct. The tile guys in calif really like them. But It's a lot of work... :-) its a rare trade nowadays for sure
Laticrete waterproofing membrane is one that I would say I recommend. It's not carried by the big box stores you have to purchase from tile distributors another stores like such.
I really appreciate you help I literally flipped a whole house with the help of your vidoes from build an addition to adding floor joists beams to shower waterproofing and plumping and alot more. It was my 1st time working on a whole house to flip got it down to the studs took the floor out Calculated the crawlspace and put everything back new. Again love ur Chanel thanks alot
I know this is frowned upon, but I do have green board in my shower, I am going for a seamless shower look....when I was taping my greenboard I used red dot joint compound and green dot 20 minute for packing....that being said, can you redgaurd over the joint compound and 20 minute?
Yea i was just reading the Durorock website and says waterproofing is only added protection, shit i left out a piece of cement board out in the rain, next day they were fine no damage, so in a shower that has mortar edges and corners, plus ceramic, grouting and silicon bottom. I highly doubt waterproofing is needed.
Try placing a few tablespoons of water on a scrap of HardiBacker, Durock or PermaBase. Within minutes it will start to soak in, and eventually you'll see that the back of the sheet is wet. These cement products are tough and solid, but not waterproof. I'm building a bathtub surround right now. I think it's safe to say that a liquid waterproofing membrane is optional. But if I were building a shower, I would never, ever skip this step. Grout will not remain water resistant for long, and although wet backer board can easily survive daily wettings, the studs and insulation behind cannot. Don't be tempted to omit the liquid membrane!
I have a shower/ tub that I want to put sticker tiles over the wall, will using the aquadefense first before putting the sticker tiles be sufficient? ( the wall is already drywall and painted )
After using both, I would honestly come down to what color you like to be honest with you. From what I can tell, they both seem to work great. I hope that helps!
Completely unnecessary. Use a vinyl liner, mud and tape your seams fill your grout joints completely, caulk your corners and around the pan and drain, caulk the valve trim and under the curb sill. It is kind of nice being able to charge an extra $350 to Redgard a shower though 😂👌
I hope people understand that cement board and grout is NOT waterproof. Water seeps through them. Cement board can pull apart in layers if it gets wet enough times. I really hope you are not building showers for people for a living and not waterproofing.
