Wow I am.so.glad I came across this because we're remodeling our bath and have installed a shower pan, dreamline, and will be laying lvp in the same direction as what you have. This will definitely work.
I too will be installing the dream line shower pan that sits in cement. Did you leave a 1/8 inch gap between the studs and the base? I watched a video where that’s what someone said to do to keep the base from cracking so it has room to expand when someone steps in on it. I’m not sure what to do my Carpenter says he thinks the gap would cause the base to crack. What did you do and how is your base doing after 10 months? Thanks
Great video! I used your video to plan for this work and after rewatching right now, I am literally going down to the basement DIY bathroom and doing the threshold. Thanks!
For the sake of not putting holes in your waterproofing and having to calk the holes and hope in a few years you don't have a shower in your downstairs hallway, just use waterproof construction adhesive, 2 birds.... plus it holds better than brads.
Thanks for vid, it's great. But next time, fill some buckets with water and place them in shower pan. Just ike you fill your bathtub before applying silicone
Wow you got that tearing easily toilet paper, your fingers must rip through when you wipe! But for real, thanks for showing me this I’m about to do the same thing now
Well, at least that piece appears to be PVC, I've ripped out at least two rotting wood moldings from in front of shower/tubs. ... I strongly prefer treating it like a larger sized caulking gap, using a backer rod and silicone.... Or, using one of those rubber-like transition/gasket sort of things.
Absolutely, Denisa. I would definitely pick PVC over MDF any day. Between PVC and finger joint (for interior use at least) I'd just go with whichever is cheaper.
Hey Dave thanks for the vid! I notice you have boards up next to your shower wall panels. Did you do anything to waterproof / flash the transition? I have ship lap on my walls and am wondering g how to run it into the shower wall panels
They are just unfinished cedar boards (I did a video on those too I think). I used them because they're rot resistant, and wanted them unfinished so it smells like a sauna. They still look good except for a tiny bit of greying at the top where the shower splashes off someone's head.
I have a hole next to my tub and vinyl flooring. I was planning on doing something like this to cover up the hole. Would you suggest this? And where did you get that pvc at? Ty
Thanks for this great video! Do you have a recommendation on the Cove Molding and Silicone caulking to use? I want to install this but my flooring is tile and grout. Will this work for me? (minus the nails)
Thanks for the question, Mike. The reason I used this method (which I probably should have mentioned) is because we have the floating vinyl floor, and the silicone/cove molding combination would still allow it to "float." If I were doing the transition between a shower and tile, I would first replace any damaged grout, and then just use silicone -- no cove (I usually buy GE 100% silicone). I hope this helps.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY How would it still be able to float if you put brads into it? Wouldn't that attach it to the subfloor? Not trying to give you a hard time, I'm having issues with water in the downstairs apartment seeping through the upstairs bathroom, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to address it.
@@paulr7719 yes, the brads are in the subfloor, so the trim itself is staying stationary with the shower pan, the flexibility of the silicone allows the vinyl side to still move. It's like how when you tile a floor, you don't grout the edges next to the bathtub etc., you fill them with sanded silicone so the tile can move.
Yes it does, Dominik, but 100% silicone is very flexible and apparently allows for enough movement. It's been over a year and still looks good---and there are huge humidity swings in there :-) Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for watching :-) ... and no, you don't seal there because the shower walls "shingle" over the base so that water will always go to the inside of the pan. if you caulk the bottom gap, besides getting moldy, it could trap water, especially if you have a 3 piece surround wher water gets behind verticle seams.
The silicone is flexible enough that it still allows movement. The silicone and floor are still going strong, no cracking or buckling. Thanks for the comment!
The trim is actually nailed to the subfloor, and the 100% silicone stays flexible enough to allow movement. 4-14-24 This still looks as good as the day it was installed.
