I personally find an ivory coloured dinner jacket with peaked lapels more appealing than one with a shawl-collar. The formality of the peaked lapels helps to balance out the "less formal" nature of the ivory dinner jacket.
I remember buying myself new weird cardboard blue derby shoes back in the day just to watch a video on shoes later that day and realize what a mistake I've done. Everyone has to learn.
I disagree on the peaked lapel off white dinner jacket. The very picture that you displayed of Sean Connery as James Bond had an off white dinner jacket that had peaked lapels. I agree to stay away from notched collars but a peaked lapel jacket certainly does not indicate it is a "cheaper" variant and in my opinion is perfectly acceptable.
Mess jackets are military dress wear (usually in the UK and Canada) the colours denote rank and regiment and are still seen today, so no they're not just a silly circus outfit, and are most definitely acceptable in Black tie.
I have been waiting for that for ages! And I love the double breasted white dinner jacket! I have one that I inherited from my grandfather, it's from the 60s, and i think i will tailor it to fit me as soon as I'm completely grown!
My personal variation of black ties is a vintage langrock midnight blue dinner jacket with a slight herringbone weave and grosgrain lapels. I wear it with plaid trousers and and opera slippers and it never fails to draw compliments. Thanks for the awesome guide!
My thoughts exactly. Mess jackets are worn at military ceremonys and events I'm surprised he didn't knows this as he seems to be quite educated. I'm a cadet so I'm pretty I know this before anyone questions my opinion haha
But they look funny anyway, the only place other than the USA military you see them is the circus. The USA military should imo have formal uniforms based on the civil war ones, those looked good.
@@DutchPlanDerLinde they are used in many militaries around the world, they're not exclusive to the US. The royal navy, raf, British army, ran, raaf, Australian army, RNZAF, rnzn, nz army, etc etc all use mess jackets as part of their mess uniform. I don't know how the US mess wear looks, however the mess kit of the commonwealth militaries is quite elegant.
@@angusauty4396 I mean serious militaries. Just kidding. I guess you're right, my bad. Although I still think they look silly. I recently discovered even the polish army, my homeland's military that is, uses them for evening events.
Disappointed with the Mess jacket comment. It is still considered formal in the Military and arguably has more history and heritage to its civilian equivalent.
amazing! this is the information i always wanted....i subscribed you 2 years back for this guide....and its here and its the best video of yours till date :)
If you’re going with a tartan dinner jacket, I would avoid black watch unless you served in that regiment because veterans can get a little touchy about it. There are literally thousands of tartans to choose from, so I would look into that to see what you actually like the most. Of course, you can wear whatever you want and the black watch thing applies mostly to kilts.
Black Watch is a universal tartan. It was originally just called the government tartan and then became known as Black Watch after the regiment that wore it as uniform. It became the Campbell clan tartan and is clan hunting tartan for the clans Grant and Monro. If someone is going to wear tartan for black tie then Black Watch is a good choice because it's overall dark colors gives it a formal look.
@@Lensmaster1 That's true, though some are the type to care about which direction the stripes on their ties go to avoid stolen valor, so I thought I'd mention it.
Really informative and helpful video! I especially loved the burgundy velvet jacket you wore; it is very elegant. Would you say velvet should be reserved for dinner and smoking jackets, or do you think it can be used for sport coats and more casual garments?
I've never been a fan of the shawl collar on a tuxedo. It looks less formal than peak lapels to me. I like the look of Bond's dinner jacket in Spectre. Very sharply tailored, and arguably one of the best suits the character has ever worn.
Your video was both informative and engaging. I appreciate how you tackled it such a unique way. I've explored a parallel theme on Illicium London. Keep it up!
I had a very nice white dinner jacket and lent it to my friend for his wedding who ended up spilling a whole glass of red wine on it. Oh well... All gone. I bought a replacement, haven't had a chance to wear it yet though.
The British military still wear mess uniforms and it’s very common in the U.K. As opposed to most foreign militaries where the uniform for dinner functions is basically a No1 or No2 uniform, (sometimes altered only by the addition of a bow tie) the British armed forces have very strict dress codes for mess functions. The mess uniform must be worn at any of these formal events. All ranks of senior NCO and above will be measured for a mess uniform although the ranks of private to junior NCO would only be issued if they are required to wear one for an event. The medals worn are the miniatures.
I don't have the money for a dinner jacket or a tuxedo, but I'm thinking of adding a burgundy velvet tie to my navy suit and white shirt, with a red boutonniere.
I just watched this video for the first time And I am also watching your other videos about formalwear. I really enjoy the rules and understanding that in greater detail and I will watch those again for sure. What is the point of wearing a dinner jacket? Isn’t that what a complete tuxedo is for?🤔
Something often overlooked about boutonnières is that precut buttonholes are generally smaller than you need them to be, and can *not* altered once they've been sewn. You're better off buying a jacket without a buttonhole, and asking a tailor to cut and sew a boutonnière for you. (30-38mm for the traditional carnation.)
Gentlemen’s Gazette team, good video, one small quibble, 6:11 you mentioned capless Oxfords but show cap toe Oxfords. Give the editor a proper thrashing.
@@matts784 Exactly. The reason why the gentleman is confused in because Americans call it a Tuxedo. If they'd simply call it a Dinner suit as we do, then they'd be able to distinguish what a dinner jacket is; simply a jacket separate of the dinner suit
@danielsimcock1344 Tuxedo is just the American term for a black dinner jacket which is assumed to come with matching black pants. Anything that is not the standard black dinner jacket comes with a qualifier such as white dinner jacket or velvet dinner jacket.
As always a very excellent review. I beg to differ only slightly regarding the dinner jacket or tuxedo with peaked lapel. I have a fine Italian Pal Zileri peak-lapelled double brested black tux which was surely not cheap and I think its fine albeit a bit more formal than the single breasted shawl style. I do agree the latter is smoother and more chique and often my first choice, depending on the occasion. I have also worn my Favourbrook black & gold velvet smoking jacket though at less formal dinners and at Christmas with my family though sometimes also at my London Club on occasion, when a little more eccentricity is allowed.
Good days gents, I just want to decipher something. In a black tie event we have the choice to wear a tuxedo OR a velvet dinner jacket, but, from my understanding, the tuxedo would be more suitable? For an Evening event, it's the other way around (tux or dinner jacket, but the dinner jacket is more suitable)?
Hi, great video, as always. Have a question if posssible to answer please. If I wear burgundy velvet jacket, black velvet bow tie, then what kind of handkerchief should I wear, white, what material? And one more thing, would burgundy velvet brogues be ok to wear with above? Thank you in advance.
Isn't a buttonhole a bit strange in shawl collar? I mean in a regular lapel it kinds of makes sense as it could (originally) be used to close the jacket even more on cold and windy days, by unfolding the lapels and bottoming it at the neck (something I regularly actually do on my overcoat). But on a shawl collar that hole serves no purpose except for holding a flower, and hence I find it a bit strange to see such a hole without an associated button (fictional as it may be on modern jacket, there is still a place that it could actually have been.)
I hope one day to find a velvet dinner jacket; most of the ones i've seen online break the rules given in this video (flap pockets, too many buttons, notch lapels, etc…)
Is it too informal to wear dark brown shoes with a velvet dinner jacket? I have a navy velvet blazer that I would like to wear, but I don’t have any black shoes; only brown. Can it be done?
Dutch:de sjaalkraag is voor obers,goochelaars,croupiers,presentatoren en musici.Zij mogen ook een polshorloge dragen en dit pak de hele dag aanhebben. Weet dit of dit ook voor ivoorkleurig geld en is het in Indonesië omgekeerd?
I am getting myself into the sartorial life after 30 years of dress mess in the military. I live in a hot climate (and go on cruises) so I am going with a lined off-white shawl collard dinner jacket, black tuxedo slacks and a black cummerbund. I was wondering if my dress shirt is OK if it has black studs, or is that too contrasting for the off white?
This video confused me for a while, I didn't realise for a while you were distinguishing a difference between a dinner jacket and "tuxedo". We don't really use the word tuxedo here in Britain and instead we would call a typical black "tuxedo" a dinner suit or, sometimes, a dinner jacket. I'd never considered the option of wearing evening wear that wasn't (what I would call) a dinner suit before. Also, with respect to the mess jacket, I see them worn rather often as one of my friends is a military officer and a mess jacket of some description is part of almost every regiment's regalia.
This has a lot of good information. However, the definition of dinner jacket bothers me, as it does with several other people in the comments. A tuxedo (American), dinner jacket (British), smoking (German), are all the same thing. It is a black semi formal jacket worn with matching pants. It started out as an alternative to the tailcoat when at an event with only men, such as an informal dinner. This is where the term dinner jacket comes from. After it became acceptable to wear in mixed company it acquired its own set of details separate from white tie furnishings. This included matching black pants with a single stripe. The term dinner jacket is assuming the entire black outfit. An odd dinner jacket is described with a qualifier, white dinner jacket, velvet dinner jacket.
What buttons are appropriate on a bottle green velvet dinner jacket with self face shawl lapel? Matching green in satin or velvet buttons are not available but black satin buttons are. I don’t really like the contrast of the black buttons though. What other buttons could I order? Thanks!
Hi. I am wearing a velvet dinner jacket to a formal cruise night, and want to be correct with the trousers. I have bought a pair of black formal trousers with a satin strip, but I'm unsure of them as there, not the same color shade of black. Is this acceptable? Or should I go for a contarsting colour maybe grey? Kind regards James
Tuxedo is just the American name for a black dinner jacket worn with matching black pants. A white dinner jacket is just a variation on the standard dinner jacket developed to be worn with the black pants in tropical and other warm locations. A white tuxedo is an all white formal suit sometimes worn at proms and by lounge singers. It is not part of the black tie dress code.
Considering getting a double breasted shawl lapel dinner jacket. The big questions are Boutonnière or not? And Contrasting satin lapel or not? Any response would be appreciated!
Greetings Mr. Schneider. I must say, what a fine dinner jacket you are sporting! Would you be so kind as to upload a full-frame picture? Many thanks in advance, good Sir.
With a single breasted dinner jacket you should wear a cummerbund or a waistcoat. With a double breasted dinner jacket it's not necessary because your waistband will always be covered by the jacket. The only blue that is appropriate for a dinner jacket is midnight blue which effectively looks black under most artificial light. The choices with that are to have a waistcoat made out of matching material, a midnight blue cummerbund if you can find one, or a black cummerbund.
I made some researching and I fond out tophats are only adapted for White tie dress codes. One can have different kinds of stiff hats for black tie. But, I mean, go for what feels good for you. Nowadays, only a few events have a dress code, so I think it would be seen as a bold but elegant move.
@steamgeek5546 the British royal family still use top hats in a morning dress attire from what I seen myself perhaps wearing the bowler or Homborg rather unless it's a formal event requiring the top hat
I was surprised when he listed galiardi. Often when guys like him says something is ”affordable” it costs at least 10000kr+...... galiardi have dinner jackets starting at 3159kr (about 326 dollars). Well still it is expensive but at least it is something that’s possible to buy unlike when they lists ’cheap’ jackets or shirts that have a higher price tag than what normal people make in 3 years....
