Something that's also worth noting about the PTO speed selector lever at 9:39 is that putting the PTO in 1000-RPM mode also ups the output on the hydraulic pump, meaning that instead of getting about 30lpm at optimal engine speed, you'll instead get a little over 50lpm. Useful if you're running a hydraulic implement and you want a little more speed, or if you want to get high speed on your hydraulics at a low engine RPM. Keep in mind though that the pump isn't really rated for it and that running it in high speed for prolonged periods of time will wear the pump out faster. Zetor even warns you not to run the pump in this mode for extended periods of time in the owner's manual.
Thank you so much for that information about the hydraulics. I have had issues with my hydraulics on my front blade running very slow so hopefully this will help. I will try it out today as I am just doing a transmission oil change. What viscosity or grade of oil do you put in your transmission?
Top video, I've just started work on a farm and they have an 87 Zetor 7211 so your vid got me out the barn at least, thx for taking the time to do this for us!
Truly grateful for your run through of controls. I have acquired and ancient Zetor 6045 and nearly all the logo's have come off so the hydraulic control levers were a complete mystery to me. I am going out tomorrow armed with my new knowledge to try and get my hydraulic ram log splitter to work, It has alluded me so far! Thanks again.
Thank you very much for your video. My father just bought a 6011. Your Zetor is a 7245, but there are many similar points. We tried everything what you talk about in your video and WOW. Really. That tricky hydraulic-PTO stick was a blind spot. We tought we have some issue to that stick. But not :) You made us happy. Thank you again, and whish you many of problemless seasons with your 7245! Greatings from Hungary.
you probably dont care at all but does anybody know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Emmett Francis I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
My wife of a week has a Zetor 5211. In rough shape. I decided to take on the task of refurbishing it. I repainted it, put in a new water pump, thermostat housing with new thermostat, sending unit, all new hoses, flushed an repainted the radiator. Also, since this was her father's tractor he used it to push trees over so all the lights were busted out and I replaced all of those with new housings and lenses. Anyway, I have done alot with this tractor. I have ordered multiple guides and they dont really explain how to operate it very well. You did an excellent job and I appreciate this video so very much. I have never worked on a tractor or owned one but tearing it all down and and repainting all the panels and replacing many parts, this was fairly easy to do. I have restored a car before but never worked on a tractor. Kind of fun. I didnt understand how to get the pto to work with the engine running. I had to shut the tractor down to get it to work. We use it to bush hog the farm. So i will take what I learned today and see if I can apply it this evening. Thanks again.
Thank you for the video. My hydraulic lift would not drop and that 3rd balancing lever can be tricky to get into mixed position but its sorted the problem. :)
Oh, this video is so welcome. Just acquired a Zetor 4340 as a part of a property acquisition, and I had no idea what most of the controls do! Most are covered in this video, which is amazing. That said, I still can't figure out how to make it move! I can get it started, and move the front end loader up and down, but do you think I can figure out how to get it in gear and drive it!? I know this video was posted a while ago, but if you're out there, would welcome another with these insights covered! Thanks.
4:15 used to be the rear light. Never seen the emergency stop ever on any zetor. In some variants the headlights are turned on by turning the key: once position and taillights and twice to turn on normal beam. The high beams you turn on with the indicator stick. The front work lights are turned on by the overhead switch (just like on most tractors). Some cab versions that have no fans and those have big work lights at the back as the front ones. Switched from overhead pannel. Another thing the left side clutch (never figured whats it for) doesnt work really without air. The PTO clutch disconnects last with the air pressure on as you mentioned. You have to step the clutch out quite far. There is a electric switch (turns on a warning light and disengages the PTO). The left I guess what should be PTO clutch doesnt work for me, still countin teeth - do be carefull if you do to if you strip it you need to pull the tractor three ways apart (cap off engine off wheels off hydrolics off and then you can acess it). the right side step is the TURBO MODE as I like to call it ( dont ask me how it got its name) never use it. The left side with the safety flipamathingy is is the read diff lock. The hydrualics are quite interesting. The lever is spring loaded (or it should be ). The inner circuit lever will fall all the way down if you let it. Midway the hydraulics are idle so relaxed and going down. If you let it lower it then begins to pull up the arms in the rear (ZETORMATIC/AUTOMATIC). This is for active depth controll for plowing. While it sounds fun it definitely ruins your entire hydraulic system. Dont ever bother using it chances are if you get a old zetor the thin isnt even properly set up and it will be horribly inaccurate and weak in the first place. This is my tips and bits from a ZETOR 7011. Rear wheel drive only. The 7011 and most of and or basically all UR1 tractors have the fuel pump and RPM regulator on a completely different oil circuit all discrete. Take a note do not overfill the distributor with oil (it will cause RPM droop and makes it useless) and same goes for the RPM regulator. For UR1 tractors that have discrete fuel distributors you have a small button on the left of the fuel distributtor. I call that a cold starter. Advances the fuel injection timing by a bit so it cathes on better in cold conditions and just regular first startup. If it sticks in you have problems or you will soon have the cilinder head in the roof of your building or heavens. Dont ask me how I know. On other UR1 tractors (other than 70xx series and up) so stuff below 69xx all the way down to 3511 your gear shifter is next to the steering wheel to the right. Kinda awkward to use and those types have no synchron at all not even 4-5th gear and chances are if you get your hands on one tractor and it should have it, probably is long overdue for service and its shot. For the smartypants out there- NEVER EVER EVER put a turbo on any engine that wasnt completely modified for tubo parts. That means stock crankshaft stock heads gaskets everything I repeat do not to it. The intense combustion heat will reshape your valves into ovals ruining the head loosing compression and it may even get a valve stick and which case it might gend a rod split a camshaft or the crankshaft or split the sleve from the compression pressure. Gasket is the first thing to go and the best case scenario. I personally never recommend doing turbo on the engine but if you feel a little bit more economical then you can put a medium size turbo on it. Reduces fuel consumption and do not ever consider it as a power boost. Common problems: if your idle is allover the place dont be scare take the thing home its not that big of a deal. The regulator is basically a spring loaded centrifugal regulator. If even one spring gets a little tired the RPMs are allover the place. This issue mostly affects the older regulators (that have the oil fill port right next to the fuel return line from the distributor). I know this issue from my 4611. I own two zetor tractors so I know a lot if anyone has any questions or curiosities (that includes fuel distributtor tune up and so on) just ask me. Got most of the knowledge ill be glad to help :). Cheers from Slovakia (neighbouring country from where these things were originally made and designed)
@@evanmccormack3782 on my 7011 you turn on the roof lights with a separate pull style switch where the heater and other buttons are. You have to first switch the keys from 0 to 1 then the worklights on the roof can be turned on. Then you can flip the key switch to 2 which then turns on the main front lights and now also gives you the abillity to turn on the high beams. The work lights should still work no matter if you do 1 or 2. At least thats how mine works.
Good morning from Australia Adam I just bought a Zetor 7745 with no instruction manual or owners manual. I am watching is many RU-vid videos as I can but a lot of them unfortunately for me are not in English. I have just dropped all the oil out of my transmission and about to refill with 80/90 transmission oil which seems to be the only oil I could find on they recommended on the internet. To me that seems a little bit thick. My tractor has a twin ram front blade which seemed to run very slow and almost completely stop after the oil got hot. The oil I dropped out of it was quite milky. Interestingly enough watching some videos has shown me to try the PTO in 1000rpm so thank you for that information. What transmission oil would you recommend?
@@nathanscott5908 You can try full synthetic oils, though you have to keep in mind that the transmission oil is also used as the hydraulic oil. In the owners manual, youre instructed to usa M6AD in the engine and its parts (injection pump and so forth). If you use your hydraulics A LOT. Or have the "Zetormatic/Automatic" thing engaged too (auto leveling of the 3 point joint which basically runs your hydraulic system completely most of the times overheating the tranny oil. The owners manual recommends PP80 or PP90 (intecangeable and mixable) to be used in the transmission. You fill it from the cabin from a hella awkward position. beetween your legs where there is a plastic cap and a giant screw with a wide deep slot (get a giant carpenters screwdriver for that to not mangle it up) and it has a dip stick on it. To do your measuerement however you dont have to screw the stick in to get the accurate measuerement. Just overfil a little. to acommodate for stuff like tipping trailers with giant pistons and other external gear. The power steering oil is VERY IMPORTANT you use OTHP32. Otherwise you will mess it up. Or use its equivalent synthetic counterpart with adequate or better lubrication characteristics. Changing the PTO speed does nothing to your hydraulic system. On older variants it used to literary overclock your pump but it was then suffering from overloading. Not much of an improvement if any at all. Milky oil in the transmission could have been caused by outside contamination. Also to my knowledge PP80 and PP90 do acummulate a little water and inside that transmission it will become an emulsion. While youre in there I would also recommend you to check your PTO clutch. Its that red light with a gear simbol on your dash that comes on when you press out the clutch waaaay out until it bottoms out. You need air pressure to operate it. At least 3-4bar for relyable operation. Do not just turn on your PTO withouth the clutch. If you strip the gears then you need to get the wheels off motor off cabin off and spend a week getting the whole transmission overhauled. As for what oil I would recommend, since I kknow PP80 and 90 are interchangeable and mixable, it would be PP90. Reason for that is its a little bit thinner, not by much just a little. If you can find its synthetic equivalent with better lubricity and similar tackyness but thinner, go for it. However make sure to clean out the residual previous oil since it might not be freiends with the new one.. Just go for the sure shot PP90 in my opinion. The hydraulic flow rate is highly engine RPM dependant. If you want faster hydraulic action give her some beans crank it up to 1500. Youll find that the power steering also lightens up at above 900rpm as opposed to the 650rpm idle. There are several modiffications you can get here in slovakia for this tractors hydraulic system. The hydraulic pump in particular, can be bough in a high pressure variant, a high flow variant and the normal stock one, The high pressure and high flow variants both stress the transmission a little more than the stock but nothing tooo critical. To change the hydraulic pump youll need to drop the cabin though and take a look inside from the top of the transmission. Ill ask arround as to what oil would be better from todays selection but I would just play it safe and get the 90W.. Dont forget to grease your grease nipples. It is crucial for the tractors functionality. I can tell you where each and every one of them is
Fantastic video thank you. I just bought a Zetor 7745 and unfortunately have no manual. Any service videos or working on your tractor would be most appreciated. Cheers.
Great video Is it simply a case of double de clutching for gear changes? Can’t make much sense of the operator manual, it suggests disengagement of clutch three times shifting up🤷♂️
Thanks for the video! My dad and I just bought an 89 zetor with a 7.5 foot snow blower on it. I guess I should be using the mixed setting while blowing right? Also I can’t seem to figure out how to engage the pto for the blower with the engine running, i have to stop the engine then engage. Thanks again!
Its much smarter to do it that way. As far I know you need to turn on the compressor wait for it to wake up proper and then having the clutch mottimed out you can engage the PTO without counting the teeth on the gears
Almost all 7xxx series are same. Same hydraulics same clutch and everything. The difference is in the engines. 7211 has no front wheel drive while the 7245 has all wheel drive. You can tell that by looking at the front tires. If they are smooth or small in that matter its a real wheel drive and if its looks robust and higher up let alone the same wheel patern as the rear wheels then its a xx45. All XX45 are all wheel drive and XX11 are rear.
right side that one screw with the wire going to it. Its a mechanical switch only shows go no go. I suggest you replace it if it looks a little crunchy. Also you can install a mechanical oil pressure gauge in its place.
I am new to these tractors, but, yes I am having problems with the clutch and brakes as well on my 6211. I decided to get on Amazon and order rebuild kits for all 3 of them. All 3 are the same and they are about 1/4th the cost of replacing them with new units. Now it needs to get to fall and cooler temps. After watching this video and a couple others it looks pretty straight forward and I dare say simple.
depends on if you have the mechanical clutch or the hydraulic clutch. With the mechanical clutch you can help yourself a litte by advancing the mechanical lever which pushes on the clutch plate. There is a smalll view window on the right side just after the engine is bolted in. I think you should be able to see not only the flywheel but the clutch engage and disengage. If you have sticky clutch chances are you need to pull the engine off. Pain in the arse but sure fix. Good luck
Dan Dooley Hello, I don't know about the Crystal throttle ( I've never been lucky enough to have one ) but the best place I've found for parts is Roy Perfect Ltd up near Cumbria . They're very knowledgeable on Zetors and very helpful in my experience with them , very fast delivery too !
