Nice video, Thanks guys! I really like these how to vids, keep em coming. This is the channel I’ve been looking for. Let’s bring old school modeling back!
AWESOME thanks guy’s getting back into RC planes, and I want to build some Bill Evans scimitars I’ve always like those. Thanks again. Batteries are OK for some planes but NITRO is the best way to go.
Thank you so much for the resipe. Nice to be able to save a little money over having fuel shipped to the house (because of it being a hazzordous shipment). Much apprecated 😊
Hi guys I am on my way making glow fuel. If my calculations are correct my cost of 10% nitro fuel is $18.50/gallon. Wow what a savings, thanks to you. The content on your channel is great, I am learning better techniques of doing things from the channel.
Great job guys love your channel and happy to see y’all back on, we have four or five guys that still fly glow in our club and we also make our own fuel as well. Same products as you guys use, but we use straight Klotz super techniplate , it performs better then the store bought fuels and it’s much cheaper than fifty a gallon! Thanks for all the great builds and fights keep them coming,stay well and god bless !
We have so much material we have built many planes in the last 6-8 months and are trying to get all of this material put together and on the tube thanks for watching us
I have heard 1% propolyene oxide is a good additive for quicker starting. Seems I remember looking for it in C/L Goodyear racing days. Any thoughts on that?
Yes I have heard of it. Never used it before I have heard it is very unstable from a storage standpoint. I very seldom ever have any trouble getting mine started usually one or two flips. if it is 50 or below I will use the electric starter to avoid the frustration thanks for your comment and be safe
I use them on some of our larger 4 strokes. I set them to come on at a tick above idle to insure that there is no splash out at low rpm. I would never use one as an aid to a poor running engine meaning one that does not run well without it. They are also great for glow plugs in hard to reach areas. Hope this helps answer your question thanks
We had three of them never had any real issues with them. My concern with them was their longevity because the gas engine requires much more air for combustion and the btu of gas is much higher thus for they run considerably hotter and since it is a converted glow engine my concern again is longevity for this reason also the carbon content is higher with gas engines, thanks for your question
Where you guys at? More small build series please and thank you Bingo 20 My O My Wicked Wanda Cloud Dancer 10 Draggin' By BD-6 Funster 20 Quickie Bipe Playmate
We have been running VP Lutz blend 30% , and I wonder if it might get its pink color from some Techniplate...lol I do like that it is colored and i can see it easier in the fuel bottle, dump gun, and fuel tanks... I've debated getting something like techniplate, and adding a bit of extra oil into fuel for breaking in new engines, but have seen many recommendations for just using what you plan to run on... Any thoughts on that side of things, break in of new engines? What would be the cost to mix something along the lines of 30% nitro, 10% oils, using this process and these products? I'm able to get gallon cans of 30% VP fuels from a local hobby shop for $45 , and might ask if there would be any small discount if we buy it in cases... there is also a company not all that far away from me that makes and sells fuel for racing and I may decide to give that a try. Cheers
As far as breaking in an engine I use 10%nitro and 20% castor oil the reason for the castor is it’s extremely high flash point meaning it won’t burn until it reaches temperatures far exceeding our engines capability so it remains a lubricant thus for allowing the engine to run cooler during this crucial time. My castor oil of choice for this mix is klotz Benol a little pricey but it is superior to others. As far as making 30% just multiply 128x.30=38.2 if you are using the VP 50/50 then multiply 38.2x2=76.4 round it down to 76 oz of 50/50 I would only use an oil content that the engine manufacturer calls for and again it is the percentage multiplied by 128 as far as cost goes it would be based on what you are using I hope this helps a little 😊
I mix my own to. I also super techni plate but I don't add additional castor. I'll have to try it on my next gallon. Would make the super go further since it's so dang expensive. I'm gonna go to 10% also. I usually mix 15. Pretty much the same technique I use to mix. I get my nitro from hyperfuels. About 85 dollars for 100% to my house for a gallon.
If memory serves it was one squirt of STP Son of a Gun cleaner per gallon for foaming. But if your fuel tank is wrapped in 'real' foam rubber, the kind Dubro sells, you shouldn't need any anti foaming agent. Some people use open cell foam, or too big of a tank and no foam and that causes foaming issues. Although in helicopters where the tank is rigidly mounted, use a Dubro sintered #161 fuel tank clunk, sold as a fuel tank filter.
If you would be using the vp 50/50 you would need 52oz and I would use klotz super techniplate 23oz and the remaining balance the vp M1 methanol. This would run it quite well I don’t know for sure what the car engines run for oil % but this would make it 18% oil thanks for the question
I was looking at your cost per gal pricing. The cost of methanol for 2 stroke 78oz-$17.80 4 stroke 95 oz-$9.50. Did you get those reversed? Just wondering.
I used to live in Iowa a short drive away from Byron Originals in Ida Grove Iowa when they were in business and we could pick up cases cheap because we didn't have to pay the hazardous shipping cost and after that we could also get fuel from sig manufacturing in Montezuma Iowa but they quit making fuel and shortly after that most of my glow powered planes were display models. 😥😥😥😥 Thanks for the awesome video ❤️
Yes both Byron and sig had great fuel. But for me I tried electric and gas ,gas was ok but the electrics forced me to find away to make glow fuel I love the power, long flight times and the convenience of refueling and going right back up that’s my preference of course but thanks for sharing that must have been nice living that close to Byron and Sig
Castor oil got a bad rap from some magazine articles a few years back, castor will protect and get even slicker at temperatures that make the synthetic oils evaporate. Yes you have to do a bit more cleaning after a flying session. A lot of my engines are over 20 years old and have never needed the bearings replaced. I do disassemble and clean them every winter, and lube them with WD-40 as an after run oil and winter preservative.
Well you are correct on all counts, it’s funny to me every engine manufacturer calls for castor but somehow people are compelled to use synthetic and you are correct castor has a very high flash point and remains a lubricant throughout the entire combustion process whereas synthetics have a low flash point and actually act as an accelerant burning hotter than the actual fuel not good. Anyone who doesn’t believe me take some temperature readings you will be surprised
