This is MBMrc, together we are Marty, Brian, and Matt. We fly RC model planes and quads. Glow, Gas and electric, Balsa, Foam, BNF’s, Pure Scratch Building. You name it we fly it, on our channel you will see reviews, flying footage, build videos, flight tips, rants and raves, and maybe even some bloopers. Good, clean, family hobby fun. Please hit that subscribe button and watch everything we post. We hope you enjoy it and more importantly we hope you learn something. - Brian
I ordered the kit a few years back then got cancer. Built it over the last year and just maidened it last week. Saito 91, weight 7lbs right on. I built it very light, 1 aileron servo and a micro on the throttle. It took off in 3 feet! Once up I had the plane at 1/4 throttle, this thing would fly well with a 60fs. I did read landings are an art form, mine floated and did not want to land. Great plane.
When a video starts saying “hopefully we’ll see it come back in one piece” doesn’t say much about the whole project, the airplane looks to fly pretty good, good rolls and landing glide also, the landing was good
Hi I bought a lead like that. Cut the red wire, join the black and white lead together, plug it into bind, and then bind it together. Thank you very much. Good video. If your helicopter doesn't receive a signal, do this it will work 😊 ❤❤❤
Biggest drawback to the only 10cc engines left is the rear carb makes the mounting long so the nitro engines they are perfectly suited to replace might not fit under a cowl. It’s too bad the evolution 10cc was discontinued having a front carb 10cc was a nice option. I have one of these with a .70 surpass but have not yet had the chance to fly it yet.
Agree glow is not dead. Plus the individuals who had trouble with setting up and tuning glow may have gone to electricity. This has opened up a new group of people who don't know how setup electric from scratch thus they fly RTF ARF taking all guess work out for them. I am happy for them as long they're happy just don't knock what we like as we all do this for fun!
I have a Falcon MkIII with OS40 I built in the eighties, never crashed, last flown in 2010. After a 14 year hiatus, I hope to get it in the air this weekend. I bought gallon of fuel, new fuel pump and 12V battery, new receiver battery and a smart charger. Got a new radio coming too. Can't believe all the companies and products that have disappeared in the last 12 to 15 years. Thinking about converting my Little Stik to electric
I use them on some of our larger 4 strokes. I set them to come on at a tick above idle to insure that there is no splash out at low rpm. I would never use one as an aid to a poor running engine meaning one that does not run well without it. They are also great for glow plugs in hard to reach areas. Hope this helps answer your question thanks
Matt, the nose work on your model looks so much better. It is the way I built my Polestar just like Bill’s. Shamelessly, nearly the same graphics. It was fast with my HB 61 pdp engine.
I wanted to learn this my whole life, and I'm a little long in the tooth but finally have a chance. I think building is a dying art, and it's an honor to watch an elder do it. Thank you!!
I have heard 1% propolyene oxide is a good additive for quicker starting. Seems I remember looking for it in C/L Goodyear racing days. Any thoughts on that?
Yes I have heard of it. Never used it before I have heard it is very unstable from a storage standpoint. I very seldom ever have any trouble getting mine started usually one or two flips. if it is 50 or below I will use the electric starter to avoid the frustration thanks for your comment and be safe
This is a great video. Thank you so much for making and sharing it. I'm making a Kadet LT-40 and am new to this (first balsa kit for me). After watching this I'm stuck debating on whether to glue in the easy hinges before or after covering. The way you do it looks so awesome, but from others I've asked at the field (and also made a redit post on this), all say 100% cover first and "the hinges will get in the way". Though, doing the hinges first and covering after as you've shown looks so much simpler and elegant.
Providing you are not using pinned hinges such as Robart hinges they will not be in the way. You will have a hinge line that is clean and protected and free of flutter not that that is a huge concern on the LT. Most people who knock this method has never tried it
@@martinkolm1796 Thank you. I probably should have held off trying this until I had a cover or two under my belt. It was looking very good - until I used a bit too much heat gun. Ended up just slicing it down the middle along with hinge line and burning the covering into the wood. Still ended up flying great so that's good :)
i’m a bit late to this video by about 4 years. i dropped out of the hobby for 7 years and the sig astro hog is what got me back in. i went to the fly in near my local field and there it sat, a man was selling it. walked away with it for 70 dollars and super excited to fly it soon for the first time. it hasn’t flown since the 90s
What plane is that? We have a plane that looks almost identical with my great grandpa’s and we have no idea what it is so It’s cool. Someone else has one too just wondering what it was.
Hi guys I am on my way making glow fuel. If my calculations are correct my cost of 10% nitro fuel is $18.50/gallon. Wow what a savings, thanks to you. The content on your channel is great, I am learning better techniques of doing things from the channel.
I just received the stinger 15cc for a chipmonk. Super nice engine. Starts easy. Ran good right from the box with no needle adjustments. I'll fine tune it before flight. Great price as well. Great video.
This is the best Rc channel on youtube building and flying real rc planes i used to fly all those ones you are flying and building used to own a hobby shop in Newport News Va called Rowe's RC hobbies.
Thank you so much for the resipe. Nice to be able to save a little money over having fuel shipped to the house (because of it being a hazzordous shipment). Much apprecated 😊
We have been running VP Lutz blend 30% , and I wonder if it might get its pink color from some Techniplate...lol I do like that it is colored and i can see it easier in the fuel bottle, dump gun, and fuel tanks... I've debated getting something like techniplate, and adding a bit of extra oil into fuel for breaking in new engines, but have seen many recommendations for just using what you plan to run on... Any thoughts on that side of things, break in of new engines? What would be the cost to mix something along the lines of 30% nitro, 10% oils, using this process and these products? I'm able to get gallon cans of 30% VP fuels from a local hobby shop for $45 , and might ask if there would be any small discount if we buy it in cases... there is also a company not all that far away from me that makes and sells fuel for racing and I may decide to give that a try. Cheers
As far as breaking in an engine I use 10%nitro and 20% castor oil the reason for the castor is it’s extremely high flash point meaning it won’t burn until it reaches temperatures far exceeding our engines capability so it remains a lubricant thus for allowing the engine to run cooler during this crucial time. My castor oil of choice for this mix is klotz Benol a little pricey but it is superior to others. As far as making 30% just multiply 128x.30=38.2 if you are using the VP 50/50 then multiply 38.2x2=76.4 round it down to 76 oz of 50/50 I would only use an oil content that the engine manufacturer calls for and again it is the percentage multiplied by 128 as far as cost goes it would be based on what you are using I hope this helps a little 😊
