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Some common comments to be noted here. Just because you didn't get the result you wanted doesn't mean the test equipment is bad. The same equipment can be seen used in other videos without the same issue. If you don't know what it is, that doesn't make it "cheap", and just because it's "cheap" doesn't mean it doesn't work (after all, you're trying to defend a cheap amp as working fine). I looked into the amp because it seemed to be causing a problem in a car and gave the same result without a sub on the bench prior to putting the sub on the bench. The stray field isn't strong enough that far away to interfere with it (not that it would anyway).
I posted a reply about something similar in a barevids amp repair video. I skimmed thru it not entirely sure it's related at all but curious on your input about the 2. So I'll post the link for you here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jgpNTq1IjR8.html
How is the amp hooked up? Is the scope on a channel strictly by itself without any load? Im assuming its a monoblock so both terminals are commoned together on the PCB? Still not a great idea to put any sort of scope leads right at the output of the amplifier, esp. if they are a non-lossy (e.g. BNC cable) as they can form a reactive load at higher frequencies and cause the oscillations you are seeing there. Not saying the amp isn't defective, but need to make sure the instrument is actually not causing stuff that wouldn't normally be there. Best approach is to use an off the shelf scope probe at the terminals of the speaker itself so there is no risk of oscillations or any residual ripple from the switching circuitry to cause ringing on the scope leads. Also would be nice to see a purely resistive load used as it will take any odd back-EMF or other effects out of the equation.
Also the 75mV signal is likely from the head unit or ground loops in the system since these amps have considerable gain and can amplify any junk coupling into the signal path. It looks like it might just be 60Hz mains coupling into the power supply or the head unit. Not an issue, just indicative of poor shielding somewhere, or a transformer near the RCA cables that's coupling AC into the amplifier. The fact that its not there when the head unit is off, points to the head unit as the source of the signal.
This is nonsense, if I can get a hold of this amp in the UK I'll show you what you're doing wrong and I'll explain why your scope is reading wrong. This amp didn't kill the subs your customers did.
I was just thinking what Sam would think of this amp. I don't like the generalistic amps produced in South Korea.... there's a number of car audio companies like sundown, skar, and the rest that have the same board but at different cost.
the *if* he had one of these amps, he *would* get a different result than the guy who *actually has* the amp has *actually got* the result. sure buddy. you stans are too much.
I've installed probably a few hundred of these amps and sold more than that. I've even used a few of them myself and have bench tested them. The ratio of blown subs on these amps is no higher than on higher quality Korean or Brazilian board amps and from obviously, more than a few other manufacturers. A few things that set off my bullshit detector... 1) There is no demonstration of the power input voltage or how clean the supply is. 2) There is no demonstration of the volume level at which the head unit clips or any demonstration of where the bass, treble, loudness and subwoofer output levels are set. 3) Only one amplifier is tested. 4) For most of the video we don't see the display of the scope to see where it's actually auto ranging. There isn't much that could be fishy here but the fact remains that there isn't much offered either. Not to mention, one test on one amplifier qualifies as anecdote and anecdotes mean fuck all to testing and demonstrating problems. Especially when the video claims not that this one particular amp or size in this series or even this series but... generally all budget amps kill subs. That's a grand shitburger of a statement that can not ever be proven or even loosely supported against the volume of evidence already available empirically. In simple terms, there are thousands such amplifiers in use every day for months or years that aren't wrecking speakers. In summary, this demonstration is at best poorly thought out and at worst, wholly dishonest.
I have an ignite R300/1D (super cheap) pushing an audiopipe BD2, for almost 2 years as my daily and I'm not nice to it. Still going strong. Maybe I just got lucky?
I had two smoked subs on two separate RP amps. One 8” on a 350 and one 12” on an 800. I may have had settings wrong on amps as I didn’t have a Scope yet. But now I do and will test everything and set gains accordingly to ensure no clipping. But what I have found so far is that my head unit can go full volume without clipping. So unless my gains were wrong on the amps, the burnt subs were due to something in the amp. My power and grounds were all verified to have no voltage drop as well. And I never ran full gains on either.
You need another of the same amp to test. That looks like a defect in that amp (or mounted on the box causing damage or amp was damaged by user error). That amp is quite popular and I haven't heard or see comments/videos with having issues with them. Testing a used amp that has already gone through blown speakers and unknown usage by the user isn't a very good test to begin with. Your title is misleading also, it's going to make people think all budget amps are bad which obviously they aren't. Edit: Just seen at the end you mentioned several customers with these came with the same issue. Still perhaps try a new one and see if it does it.
I had this same amp running my 10in zv4 for over 5 years in my daily driver. Never got close to blowing it. I'd say its user error and garuntee shitty electicals in your customers vehicals. Probably shitty box too.
If when you turn your oscope off and back on again without touching the amp and you see something different on the scope, that indicates there's something wrong with the scope. The amp didnt know your scope turned off and back on and decide to correct or change the signal while it was off. I'd like to see it on another amp to see if you're having the same issues
If you notice, off and back on didn't always solve it. Perhaps I got lucky with track change sometimes when it did work. I have other videos using it on different amps, with no issue.
@@EMFAudio I have 8 Skar audio amps(6 of them are the RP series) and I have run across the same situation where at minimum volume, as i am turning it up, i get that crazy wacked out wave that corrects itself once i get past about 1/4 volume or gain adjustment. This has only happened on my RP800. 1 that will begin to clip at around 28.5v but the wave gets all funky between 4-6v.
@@jacoblittle3209 I think the big question is, is the amp doing anything to the sub at those lower voltages which would behave like a DC battery (start burning the coils)? If not, that may just be how the switching circuitry operates at low voltage. I'd be more curious to see whether there is IC compression in the sine wave at the extreme limits of power, which may indicate a more advanced amp design. I'm hoping my brand new (2023) purchased RP-800.1D has no problems.
This test isn’t valid without a second amp to compare the signals coming out on the same scope. Seems to be an issue with the scope. Possibly magnetic interference.
Nope he just doesn't know how to operate his oscilloscope. He is viewing the mosfet switching which occurs at 80,000 to 125,000hz. The ONLY thing that amp is guilty of is having a poor quality filter inductor. (Which does NOT kill subs.)
What are you using as a power supply? could it be possible it can be sensitive enough to pick up on a transformer of some sort as a charger.in the vehicle I could see and issue with ignition coils an such
@@EMFAudio turn off auto ranging on the time divide and voltage divide. And yes a higher quality oscilloscope would do nothing but IMPROVE your testing.
One thing of note with some class-D amplifiers is some of the control ICs can go into gain compression in lieu of clipping as there is a fixed amount of power from the power supply and duty cycle available. Seen this in small class-D amps in self-powered speakers. The IC or ICs will dynamically compress the audio at the extremes to avoid clipping. If some high power amps do this, it will dramatically increase the dissipation in the voice coils as the RMS power will be much higher.
I know exactly what you're talking about, and that's very commonly found in home and pro audio. I can't recall seeing it in car audio. I think if it was in car audio, it wouldn't be found in cheap stuff.
Yes, this is what I was trying to get at with them being digitally controlled to the nines...i just wasn't aware of the "compression" verbage. Thank you for the clarification.
@@EMFAudio Thanks. Thats sort of what I figured since I have not seen it with my class-D amps in the car. Only on console and speaker systems for home audio.
@@jeffreytopp4695 Then you have hard clipping, which can be even worse. As the clipping becomes more severe, it effectively puts the load directly across the power rail (or rails for a half-bridge) which is why subs will often burn up. Of course, the obvious answer is more power than needed, which is usually the solution in competition environments. Still, having some form of active compression I would consider to be a good thing, and something an upscale amp should have so it doesn't risk overly taxing itself or whatever its driving if its pushed beyond what it can do. The other feature often lacking is cycle-by-cycle current monitoring of the switching devices.
I ran these for a while and liked them, I scoped a couple of them to set gains and didn't experience this but wihh how many they r building I am sure there r a few bad ones or more like a lot I would like to know what's really going on with it
Very cool! Definitely weird harmonics and distortion being output from that amp. It would be neat to see the waveform on a new scope with a longer timebase, but even on your little one it's still evident that the signal is getting messed up, and is very dirty by confusing the auto range.
@emfaudio the pwm filter cap looks to be the culprit. I see frequency modulation within the output signal, indicating issues with tge DAC. Could be because it is "cheap", could be due to vibrations.
Ive had 2 rp1500s and an rp2000, sound quality from all 3 of them was terrible, replaced an rp2000 with a hifonics bxx2400 and the sound quality is so much better and the power is cleaner, same with my kicker kx2400.1 has the cleanest power from any class d amp Ive owned and I still have my synergy wfo 2.1, surpisingly the kicker still sounds cleaner
I agree on the Kicker KXA 2400.1. Been running this amp since it came out, approximately 3+ years now. Awesome amp, absolute clean power, not a problem with it what so ever. Sure wish it wasn't discontinued, but the price point probably killed it. Alot of people weren't willing to pay $799.00 for it, (I was)... Then it jumped to almost a $1000, that definitely sealed its fate. Seen one on Offer Up last week for $600, I should of at least inquired about it, but I let it slip away. Interesting to note that you got cleaner power from a Hifonics than the Rp, I'm not against Hifonics, that was my budget amp in the early 2000's years. You just have to wonder that the Rps being newer, they should have a technological advantage
You 💯 on the RP amp, switched it to my Rockford fosgate amp. Night and day difference, every note sounded great. My system got stolen, now I got a down4sound jp23 and there is some knots I don’t like
Could it be that the head unit is outputting a signal, even though the volume is at zero? How can you be sure it's the amp that's causing the noise in the scope, and not the radio?
I was running a Skar SDR 10" @ 1 ohm on this same amp. Set the gains with a multimeter and was running right at the 600 watt RMS rating. Never had ANY issues. Upgraded to a 10" EVL again set gains with multimeter and STILL not having any issues. No weird smells, nothing unusual. Cheap ass $7 Bluetooth adapter for the RCA signal even. No issues at all. Not saying your particular amp doesn't have an issue.
Ive been running one single Audiopipe BD15 for just under 7 years on a Skar rp-2000 just like that. Set my gain through a borrowed o-scope when i installed it. I beat the absolute shit out of the sub almost every day, and its never blown. on a 1 ohm load. Running one single line of 0 guage CCA wire too. One of the best amps ive ever had. Reliable, and puts out good power. Just dont clip your shit and theres no problems.
Funny thing is that scar has the exact same insides as the Sundown amps that you were selling us for years so what you're saying is you sold inferior equipment to all your customers
I have a feeling this statement is inaccurate, and probably told to you buy a Skar rep because their entire business model is based on saying "it's just like Sundown but cheaper".
To be honest your scope may not be reading wrong it could some of the high freq from the amp is not being filtered (The very high carrier freq used in the amp section). To my ears it sounded like the amp was pulsing the output, tho no being there in person it could be just encoding compression artifacts but other parts of the audio was fine.
That is precisely the point I was getting at and mentioned. With it being auto sensing it can't lock on when there are other things happening, like various harmonics and general noise.
Havnt finished the whole video. But I believe I watched an amp repair video on barevids channel and the bottom square wave baffled him as well. Not sure what the solution he found was or if he found one
My RP2000 gives my 4runner a nice rumble at 141dbs. I've never had an issue. Then again I know what the fuck I'm doing also. The internals in your JL and Sundown amps are the exact same components and come from the same place. China. You're just paying for a name
@EMF Audio is it possible that it's only a handful of these RP2k amps have this issue? I've had my Skar RP2k for a good while now on two Sundown sa12's and set it up with an oscope after watching your video and have had no issues with it and the sine wave on my scope is nice and clean set up at -10db 45hz test tone. The amplifier is really the only thing I went budget on but it sounds great overall for my taste. Love the tech stuff Tuesday content 👍
It's very possible it was an entire run. Mind you, this isn't the only one showing the same result so I couldn't say how many. I find it improbable the only 3 I've encountered are the only 3 to have a problem.
@@EMFAudio something to think about I guess huh I'm going to borrow a buddies scope cause now I'm curious LoL. I'm sure this video is gonna make some folks butthurt huh LMFAO!
Your scope was zoomed in WAY too far. Take a gander at what it was trying to measure: 125,000hz. That is the PMW switching that isnt being completely filtered by the main channel inductors.
@@EMFAudio again you have the scope zoomed too far in. Set it to manual, zoom out to an appropriate time scale and youll see it yourself. The point is you aren't using your equipment correctly and drawing erroneous conclusions based off of normal class d operation.
I’m wondering if there’s hidden meaning behind this video... I remember a while back you did an experiment vid with testing an smd product... the rp amp for sure has a bad reputation for going into protect... weather it’s user error or not it seems to have problems a lot. Just trying to connect the dots. Love the videos! Interesting stuff and I’m learning from them. Thanks
Ive learned with EMF you have to stay focused on the subject and not get distracted by what products are in the video. Too many people are distracted by the fact that its a skar amp and not focused enough on the fact that hes using it as an example of a common problem because it's doing what he claims. Hes not attacking anyone.
I don't question whether or not this line of amps has quality issues, but I can't help but notice your oscilloscope is leaning against the magnet of a Banhammer; that has to be affecting the measurements being seen. I ruined the Fitbit I was wearing when installing my Banhammer 15 in a box several months ago.
I had it there to get it in the shot, I noticed it with no sub connected and connected a sub so you could hear what it was doing. The stray magnetism isn't strong enough to cause an issue with anything that far away.
I don’t know if there’s something wrong with the test or not but I’ve sure heard a lot of negative things happening with this line of amps from skar especially when ran @ 1 ohm. I believe 5 star has commented in a few of their videos that they won’t even install these @ a 1 ohm load. It might say something about the quality of these amplifiers
Makes me wonder if their better (more expensive) line of Korean amps are any good versus these Chinese RPs. Definitely a good lesson in the saying you get what you pay for.
I just have to say, I'm no audio or electrical engineer genius or anything but I do know when you put electronics like a sensitive oscilloscope near a magnet it will cause the device to do strange things. It looks like in this video you have your oscilloscope laying up against a very large neodymium magnet connected to the subwoofer you were testing on. In my past experiences that will cause some very massive unwanted interference in some way shape or form. If I'm wrong somebody please explain.
@@MrAnderson5157 what is shielded? The oscilloscope? The speaker? If the oscilloscope is magnetically shielded that's cool but I don't see that being a feature of this lower price point oscilloscope this man is using in the video. As for the speaker it's clearly not in a box so nothing is shielding it from anyting. On a related point it doesn't really seem to make much difference if something is magnetically shielded if the instrument you are trying to shield from it is so sensitive it can pick up the smallest bit of EMF interference or otherwise.
You are wrong, I'll explain. The o-scope is about 4-5" from the magnet, which is ferrite, not neo. I showed in another video the gauss reading at that location was around 40-70. For perspective, speakers of all sizes, even mids, are over 3,000 in the gap. Magnet's don't radiate a field in every direction, it's polar. That means you won't get much of a reading outside of the poles, and directly. There is equipment that might be effected by tiny amounts of a magnetic field (refer to Green Bank, WV) but this o-scope is not one of them.
@@baltazard133T The leads and the case are shielded. It's not only standard but it would be nonsensical to use equipment easily rendered incorrect by simply using it as intended. In other words it would be stupid for it not to be.
Too sad, I was expecting to see what EXACTLY is causing the anomaly, is it the subsonics (suboptimal internal resistance), supersonics (not proper class-D filtering), or some weird resonance or stuff caused by damping factor or... . I sadly didn't learn anything today, Sean.
The deep down explanation of why it's doing it is beyond my level of knowledge. I can show you it's bad, I can show you what it causes, and that's the real consideration there.
Man, I picked up an RP-800.1D during the D4S clearance. I haven't installed it yet but now, in 2023, you have me worried. I'm assuming, now 3 years later, that they have solved whatever the issue was, but I also ordered a cheap O-Scope, so we will see.
I've had the same Amp and never had a problem sold I for bigger and the amp I sold still strong no issues year later I currently have 2 of the rp3500s no issues at all that amp has a issue of some sort
I want to see a side by side comparison with a known “good” amp. Also show the head unit signal to compare that. BTW I’m not a fan of these high powered class d amps.
Hey. Bro I watched couple your builds fricken awsome how and were can i order parts like motors magnets spiders that glue i would really like to build my own subwoofers or one strong big mamajamma
Motors aren't generally just purchased, you might acquire them as a blown sub. The other parts I would recommend looking at www.fixmyspeaker.com and www.thelordofbass.com
I know this was 3 years ago but when you say amp dyno results can be manipulated are you referring to by having the voltage at like 15 volts etc or only running a dynamic result? Could you elaborate on that?
Every since I been running taramps I don't get anymore coil smells the clip indicator works perfectly and my gains are set properly? I had audiopipe and sundown sfb amplifiers and they are just the opposite will clip your subwoofer to death and on another note every class d amplifier I owned? When you have the amplifier completely off you can hear the subwoofers playing in the background? Not good it should be completely off until you adjust the gain to match the head unit voltage output? Class ab amplifiers are the best then class d full range then class d?
Cheap drivers offamps and filter caps means a feedback through the audio output. China is notorious for this. I had the 150.4 in that line I had all kinds of issues with it. From the ground feedback to a soft clip during it's so called soft turn on cycle. Had the very same issues with a few other chinese made amps.
The simplest test would have been to start with checking the speaker terminals for a DC offset. DC would be a likely suspect for cooking coils like that. Amps in any price range can have that failure mode. Good designs have built-in protection circuitry though.
out of all the people I know who still running SKar Amps which emf considers cheap amps, they never had any issues with their rp amps burning up subwoofers. And who runs their amp gains at 3/4 up and have their low pass frequencies at 250hz? this is just a question.
I own a Skar RP3500, have it tuned by ear, pushing two Skar VXF 12’s with no issues. Sure the subs will get hot if you are cranking for an extended amount of time (Amp is 500 watts rms over what subs are rated for), but I have never blown them? Your customers may be pushing things past their limits?
@@EMFAudio that wouldn't rule out the o-scope possibly being defective. Troubleshooting 101 replace equipment to reproduce phenomenon. Then the possible defective components can be verified as such. I usually love your videos, but I'm kind of surprised as to your responses to a simple procedure that could potentially solidify your claims. But it's your channel, you do you bud. I'll still watch you vids, well because your still technically smarter than I am and you welcome all kinds of criticism. And great knowledge and growth can become from receiving criticism in a productive manner. Too much hate and brand/build bashing going on in car audio. I was a little shocked when I first seen this video earlier today. But we will see how your content progresses before I give you the yay or nay for my continued channel subscription or not.
Mr. EMF please tell me what exactly the sub sonic filters for? This Could be a good ploy to get lots of views my good friend!! 🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊🔉🔉🔉🔉🔊🔊🔊🔊🔉🔉🔉🔉🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊🔉🔉🔉🔉🔈🔈🔉🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊
That seems to be the output stage filter. Like some of the other guys that commented try a new amp. I've had other class D amps blow components on the output filter.
If you are trying to prove that cheap amps are bad, I would rather see it measured on proper osciloscope and distortion analyzer with good explanation what exactly is amp doing, and compare it to different amp producing clean power. I think you had good point, but this video is very bad proof of explaining it. I would want to agree with you that cheap amplifiers are producing low quality power but I am disappointed that you tried to demonstrate it only by showing that your o-scope couldnt adjust to a signal and that wave was not looking good on that small screen of this pocket oscope. Picture was zoomed out most of the time anyway so it was hard to notice anything. this video is lame and I am disappointed.
not to mention he is clipping the fuck out of it ...didn't tune it or anything could be the o scope is cheap and not the amp ,could be that the oscilloscope is laying against the magnet idk just a thought i could be wrong
@@EMFAudio notice i said I could be wrong, but then again I couldn't bare watch the rest of the video being that there was no other instruments used to test this little experiment judging from the comments
Even though this amp says it is rated at 2000w, it’s proved on the dyno to push over 2700w at 1ohm. This amp is a budget banger and could have fried the sundown subs for a number of reasons that would be due to the person installing the amp. I run a skar rp2000 on an EVL 18 to and from work everyday and have never had any issues.
Remember where I said dyno's don't give accurate numbers and can be manipulated? Know what you're looking at for that 2,700 watts claim, they don't defy physics.
Your amp is fine, your sundown audio isnt, that was a garage sale suprise me sub!!! Lol.....I have 3 of these amps. Rp2000.1,rp1500.1 and rp1200.1, all on audiopipe subs....no issues at all
Agreed your amp is most likely fine but this happening should be taken into consideration when buying more from that line. Remember just because it hasn't happened to you doesn't mean it hasn't or wont happen to some one else or even you.
Tech Stuff Tuesday Idea: - Does Running A Higher Impedance On Your Amplifier (Say 4 Ohms On A 1 Ohm Stable Amp) Reduce Subwoofer Impedance Rise? - Is Running Your Amp At Higher Impedance Worth The Power Efficiency? As In You Buy An Amp That Makes The Rated Power Your Subs Need At 4 Ohms. So Basically Your Running Like A 12k Amp Rated At 1 Ohm At 4 Ohm For Say 4K For Ur Subwoofers. (Being Vague) - Does Running Your Amp At Higher Impedance Do Anything For You?
It’s funny this video is in my feed because this just happened in my buddy’s car yesterday....same amp on a couple Skar subs right after he got done telling me it’s a good amp, but runs hot lol. Got hot as hell and shut off at medium volume and subs blown.
I just bought a digital design M1B is that a cheep amp that will destroy my phenix gold elite 12 1600 watt rms sub. I'm worried now I paid 600 bucks for the amp and am now questioning weather its considered cheep. And will create a distorted signal that will cook my precious phenix elite.
When you combine an AC voltage source with a freqency dependent resistance and a reactance, in this case a speaker, and you hook on an oscillioscope then you do get this kind of ”distorted” readings, nothing wrong there.... The ”humm” reading whith the volume nob zeroed could be a result of the speaker acting as a acustik/electric converter (a microphone) and picking up a transformer humm i the bakground. Or maybe a case of bad filtering in the charger used (if it whas hooked upp på the batteries during the measurements). Test this same scenario with everything identical exept that you hook upp another amp :). I hope Barevids can get his hands on one of this amps and test !
I'm in the process of a build using two merica amps on four sundown 15s in a 4th order blow through and I wanted to know if I could safely mount the merica amps vertically? It would help offset the size but I don't want to hurt them,thanks for any input
Having something simular happen with the new SKV2-2500.1d I just bought. Very noisey signal @ the output jack. Switched in my pioneer gm-dx971 and tested at the output jack...nice and clean signal. Using a Picoscope. Wtf. Thought I was getting Skars top of the line, nope guess not. They (Skar) said to send it back for a new replacement. $1k on a Skar setup and still cant use it. Not going to fry the subs sending that shit signal to them. Full disclosure, box that subs and amp were in when FedEx dropped off, had a smashed in edge on the amp side of course. Idk what to think...is this just par for Skar amps or was it damaged in shipping by FedEx??
That isn't the kind of thing that would happen from shipping damage. Though worth noting, proper packaging can take a 3 ft drop from a shipping carrier.
The oscilloscope is not triggering properly as there appears to be a high frequency component in the signal, assuming the amp is not faulty or unstable, it could be the dc to dc converter in the amp radiating into the scope front end as it gets worse as power is increased, try moving the scope a meter or two away from the amplifier. The burnt voice coil looks like clipping damage overheating to me, just because leads are not burnt is irrelevant. Note the budget amp has much less power so it may not be able to produce enough fault current to burn the leads. Budget amps don't kill speakers the customer does by driving the amps into clipping.
It's a known fact the sub shown will burn the leads before the coil when clipping. You will ALWAYS see clipping in the leads to some degree if the coil shows damage from clipping. There definitely is a problem with the amp, hence making the video.
@@EMFAudio That is bs. as shown by barevids Chanel. The oscilloscope is not triggering properly as stated by bjaudio. you Zoomed in to far on the scope. and clipping dose not burn the leads. it is a result of inadequate RMS or continuous power available for the volume setting. aka the waveform just flattens out basicaly sending raw DC in to the sub.
I have that same amp 2000.1d skar paired with 2 EVLS and i don't have any issues even at pretty high volume. Don't understand the hate between different amps and subs its like ricer fan boys who think their car is better. If it works for you then who cares. If you want something nicer expect to spend a lot more.
U have the oscilloscope on the speaker magnet so as a result the magnet is causing interference. Put the oscilloscope at least 8 inches away from the speaker magnet. That is where your problem is.
With full respect's I love your work and I don't think its your Test equipment, i think its a defective unit, I am unable to get the same results you got doing the same set of tests, I'm unable to get it to output anything at 0v RCA, strange noise out of it- or any isolations on my Pro docility scope .. or at least the RP2k I own .. I hope it does not fail like the one you got there ... I think it sounds good also, not like a Crockford but truly a good sounding amp,
I have a kicker cxa 400 .1 amp And a Skar Audio single 12 SDR sub with pre fab box at 1ohm rated at 600w rms since the amp is strong enough does that mean I will damage and ruin my amp and sub? Since it's underpowered I checked the amp Dyno sheet and it puts 514rms at 1ohm and 592 at (dynamic) This is the only amp I have And I was wondering if I could use it to power it as a temporary amp until I can get a better or would something bad happen if I do use this amp?😕
@@EMFAudio How do I prevent clipping I'm new to the car audio scene Since the amp is underpowered would that cause it to clip? What do I do to make sure it doesn't clip this is my first audio system
I got that Ti Frame I ordered fast!! Thanks again! I turned a JL audio W7 into a 15 with it! I made a video on it go check it out Eric please! Let me know what you think. Appreciate your knowledge man thanks!!
I don't understand how having the gain at 3/4 is ok for this application or any for that matter? What would it look like with the gain set properly? Mind you I'm commenting not even half way through this video. I'm assuming you will touch on this topic... I guess I'll find out soon enough.
Do you understand what the gain adjustment is and how to properly set it? The gain at any position could be correct for literally any application. As long as the volume of the HU doesn't go above the point of clipping, the gain is set properly. The point of mentioning it was at 3/4 is for people who would complain if it was all the way up for the sake of complaining to justify that's the reason, or if it was all the way down it wouldn't make enough power to show the point where it is a gain setting clip.
@@EMFAudio Right on but you're supposed to match the gain on your amp to the output voltage of the HU/source correct? I understand what you're saying but I don't see how the gain can be turned up that high on that alpine deck without clipping right from the beginning? That hu has either 2 volt or maybe 4 volt rca outputs doesn't it? Pretty sure 2 volts. I know on my alpine it's a 2 volt output but I have a eq and audio control epic160 so my output voltage is higher. I believe its 7 volts out from the clarion eq. I also owned that amp before and my 1st 1 shat the bed after 6 months and skar sent me a new one within a few days. The second one lasted awhile and ended up sold to a fellow car audio enthusiast who put it to work hard at low impedance and killed it eventually. So what you're saying if I'm understanding you correctly is... it doesn't matter where you set your gain? That's what it seems you're saying to me? Believe me I know that you know what you're talking about. I just don't understand how you can have the gain turned up to 3/4 without clipping/dirty signal. It was like the 1st thing I learned about car audio and amplifiers. That you have to match the gain on your amp to the output voltage of the source... is that not correct?
@@EMFAudio Adding to all I said... YES I UNDERSTAND HOW TO SET A GAIN AND WHAT THE PURPOSE IS. That's a silly question lol. I can't be the only person wondering, how having the gain almost maxed out would be ok? Unless you're literally just trying to show how NOT to set it? Maybe I'm missing something idk but I'm far from a rookie I've been playing with subs and amps/car and home audio for over 20 years. Hence why I'm confused with this. Also I'm guessing that particular amp is junk. Like... a recall from the manufacturer. I definitely dont think all cheap amps do this. I also don't think amp dynos numbers are garbage and don't show the power... it's kind of why they exist is it not? Obviously there are factors that come into play when dealing with impedance rise ect while in a vehicle. Doesn't mean a amp that does 3k certified on a amp dyno doesn't do 3k. You're a "professional" just like many other people here on this platform. So you're the only person in the world that actually understands car audio? Seems like that's what you're saying. So I take it back... not in short. Just a add on to my previous reply. I want to add this too... I'd love me some emf audio subs in my life. I know it's good quality. Just not sure how this video shows what you're saying it shows. Also most people that are into electronics OF ANY KIND, generally wouldn't have their electric device leaned on a extremely powerful magnet and expect it to work correctly. That in itself had me wondering wtf...
Could it be this amp, something may of happen to it. Have you done it with like new ones Oder like 3 and if they all do it. You got me sold on this then for sure.
That's the point, it IS the amp. The fanboys are blaming everything but the amp. This is the first amp I've had a need to test, because I haven't seen it commonly happen to the same model over and over till this one. The owner of it let me hang onto it to test it while I rebuild his subs.
EMF Audio oh brother. No fan boy. I like what works. You guys got some really nice things. I was just tossing that option out, that is all. But it’s understandable due to text blocks a lot of understanding
I wonder what's happening 🤔 I've been running the 75.4 and 1500.1 from skar audio for almost 6 years now. I have the gain set on the monoblock to -3db test tones. I blast my system all the time sometimes even taking the risk in clipping my head unit when I'm really feeling the song; I haven't had an issue with any of it yet
I used a rigol oscope from my school to set the gains and look at the signals to find clipping points on every source. The LOC outputs a clean signal, when I hooked up the skar amp, it had a small ripple at low volume. That ripple smoothed out as I increased volume. I learned all about amplifier classes at school, and it all started to make sense. It's common for D class amps have that little bit of distortion. However the distortion I saw on my oscope is normal for D class amps; the distorted signal shown in this video is very different And YES the subsonic and LPF are not very accurate on these amps 😆 My very first amp was a kicker, it was a pretty good amp
Just to put this out there is no such thing as cheap quality. (You get what you pay for) And with that being said theres a reason that its such a price difference between the rp and skv line of amps. Also there are better options for a 2k than skar you can buy the CAB 1500.1 and by solid or the CT sounds 1400.1 and be solid. Both are around the same price if not cheaper and im willing to bet both are better quality. But everyones missing the point. Hes saying that whats happening with that particular amp happens often with cheap "budget" amplifiers. It could be ANY company . Plus its their entry line so its not gonna be with faults. And just because you dont have this problem with your amp doesnt mean that this isnt a problem with the series of amplifiers
The best cheap amp on the market is the 2250 rms watts soundqubed not Taramp full channel get the Taramp bass line that's another good one. Skar 4500 is also better than that RP 2000 amp.
If you need a 2k amp i recommend the cab 1500.1 or the ct sounds 1400.1 . all tested and proven to do 2k and they have 1/0 inputs. But im interested in seeing how that goes up against the SFB 2k.
@@RyanBassForLife hifonics makes AMAZING amplifers especially there new stuff. Very beautiful ! I just wish that they wouldn't max power rate them because i believe they could be a force to be reckoned with . I heard a older version hifonics Zeus on some 15s. You talking about a night/day difference.
I often wondered why skar can sell a rated amp in the rp series and a rated amp in sk series both same power rating different price? Dyno videos online hide the clipping lights and the amp being tested.
You just can't start off turning your gain 3/4 of the way...up, you need to match your gain to the output of your head unit! that might be the problem by not doing it properly? Did you break the subs in maybe the spiders were so stiff that they couldn't Flex fast enough to keep up to move the air to keep the coils cool enough so your coils burn up? Lots of factors I run the exact same amp never had a problem 2 years now
Do you realize what a gain is for? The position of the gain means absolutely nothing on it's own, the HU volume level means nothing on it's own, and it's possible that the gain all the way up is the correct setting for a given volume level. That's also why I showed taking it up to the point of clipping on the HU. I've done two videos on sub break in, a normally built sub won't experience that problem.
I would rather have a Kenwood mono block than a Skar RP2000, it’s only a 2 ohm stable amp but it’s much better quality. I would definitely put the money on a high quality mono block even if it’s only 2 ohm stable and 1000 watts due to my budget.
In my opinion the amps crossovers or something is in bad shape. I've owned a few skar amps over the years currently running their skv2 100.4 on my front stage n it sound pretty good for a $300 amp. Also have a $800 rockford which obviously sounds WAAY better than the skar amp however for the price, skar equipment isn't bad as soundstream cerwin vega ect it does rated at least. The quality of the amp and the signal generated will pretty much always be a reflection of the money invested in it. Not saying anyone's wrong or right just that for the price skar isn't bad as a whole lot of companies out there. Ive had my issues with skar but no where close to the issues with alot of other companies. None the less, good to know and I will def be hooking my scope to the skar equipment I'm running atm just to see. If I do find anything similar I will reply
So every scope that doesn't read perfect is broken, no product ever has a problem? Got it. Good thing I didn't make other videos showing it all works fine ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9JWXQw5A8BU.html
You can't bridge a 1 channel amp, and the amp is rated to work at 4 ohms, and a thermal overload should shut down the amp to prevent damage. If it causes damage instead of a thermal shutdown (as the protection circuit advertises) then that just further proves it's a low quality product.
Improper box measurements can make speakers go into thermal overload. Bad rca wire can cause unwanted signal. Js I've seen other video on this amp and it tested good note you got bad wave when rca was connected .
