After watching your video I was able to figure out what was wrong with my truck. It was the same bolt and same oil going everywhere. Thanks again for making videos like this they help so much.
I had an hpop leak I chased down for 2 years, major headache!! The leak came from either the hpop warping or a crack I couldn't see at the fitting. I resealed it 3 times with new orings each time and fresh loctite with proper curing procedure and it still wouldn't seal! New hpop did the trick
Should be way more likes to this man's video!! Just want through this recently, like two days ago. Guess this recommendation was from watching how to videos. Thanks for your time my friend!!
Hey man I really love your insight on these trucks. I wish there was a way for me to post a video on what my truck is doing on here. Ive taken the old girl to THREE different mechanics and none of them could fix it. Its an 01 f350 with 135k miles and it would randomly lose power then die. It would sit up at a mechanics shop while they threw parts at it (IPR, ICP, CPS, fuel pump, batteries) and it would magically run again. Most recent mechanic said entire fuel system is trash including injectors and would cost $4k to get it to start. So i took it home and after a while it started up and ran like ass (oil is skeeting onto ground when its running, havent found the leak yet thats why im here again) The sad thing is, im in the same state as you just at the very tip top far from where you are. I have footage of how the truck sounds and have some info from my bluetooth scanner and seems like no mechanic is interested in taking the time to deal with it (or maybe dont have the capabilities) I enjoy your vids and I know you get asked for advice alot. If i cant find anybody near by to take my truck seriously then I will have to sell it. I dont have time to mess with her much anymore.
Hey bud. If you need to send me any info or video you can email it. Bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com. Before we get into what others have said just fill me in on what she is doing and a little history on her. Also do you have access to a scanner to see some live data? Hit me back and let’s see what we can figure out.
@@keithorlowski875 definitely. I’ll usually at least check to make sure the lpop can keep the hpop res full or get a pressure reading to verify. Very good point. Thanks
Hey, thanks for the great vids, you do a lot of f450 stuff so I've got a question for you. I've picked up a low miles 2000 f550, 7.3 6spd 2wd, for about 4hrs of injector rebuilding, the guy had like 9 of those 7.3's, but didn't want to mess with it. Anyway I've got a rust bucket 2003 f250 for a donor, the Dana 60 is sposed to bolt right in place of the single ibeam style front axle on the f550, and the hubs are supposed to swap over too, so my lug spacing will match front to rear. I even lucked out on the gearing, the Dana 60 truck was a plow truck so he'd swapped in 4.88's so the gears match the monster sd 135 in the back, they are apparently expensive to change gears on. Torque king will sell you a kit for like $450 to convert the 271 transfer case to a divorced setup, am I right in thinking I can just swap hubs, so all the hubs stay on the truck they started on, and just the rest of the axles get swapped, so I should be out just the cost of the divorce kit, and some drive shaft shortening and lengthening? I felt pretty good, he was done with this truck, cause 3 mechanics couldn't get it to turn over, let alone run. Was combo of corrosion on computer internal Grounds, bad battery connections, and bad solenoid ground, and a glow plug relay missing. Ran out of time today, but glow plug light is cycling, so supposedly the computer is good now, engine cranks good with jumped solenoid, so tomorrow I'll shine up the solenoid ground and I should have an almost free f550 diesel 5speed, then for $600 more or so I'll have a 4x4 one, do those parts interchange sound right to you? Spare axles are going under the 1930 2 ton truck, cause I guess there are some brake parts you just can't get, unlike the 1930 1/2 ton trucks, that you could build from scratch out of a catalog, like an old jeep. I'll eventually machine up some adapters to run a spare set of 19.5 wheels and tires that came with the 550, they want way too much for the old timey tires, and the rims are real hard to find where I'm at, that aren't all rotten. Thanks for vids, little different I literally watched your injector rebuilding vids to remind myself how to do it, and swapped that knowledge for a "free" truck. (I used to be a good diesel mechanic, but got multiple sclerosis and my memory is toast, hah)
I have done more rear end swaps than fronts. And haven’t done any 4x4’s in quite a while. But it has been my experience that swapping the newer 10 lugs with the older 8 lugs on similar axels most things swap over. There was a change on the e-brake brake. Cable ends are different but u can just swap the complete backing plate assembly to help with that. Friday’s video will be on swapping the rear on my 450 and should have some of that info for ya.
As for the fronts I’m not sure but but I would think you could handle them the same way as the back. Dana doesn’t appear to make changes very often to the main axel housings I’ve seen. As opposed to ford who’s motto sometimes seems like “it’s worked good for 50 yrs, we’ll fix it”.
Man sure wish that would’ve been the leak I was having.. ended up being one of the hoop fittings. Finally got to replacing with hydro lines w crossover. With help from the almighty I got it all in there. Now currently struggling to get it to fire, I’ve done everything I could see to bleed the air out but now am leaning toward a weak Lpop being it takes at least 10 sec to see oil pres on the dash and having about 250k. Any advise would be much appreciated, anyways Thank You for all you do on here! Sincerely, from upper St.Martin Parish.
Good to hear from a local boy. So if I understand u changed the high press lines to each oil galley? Any time I have opened up the oil system it seems to take a good bit of running to burp the system. U can make sure the hpop reservoir is staying full by pulling the lawn screw on top and viewing the oil level. Top off if needed. This will verify the check ball in the timing cover is working as well as lpop. If all your numbers look good when she is running then put some miles on her. That’s what works for me. Heating up the oil and moving it tends to burp it. Some say it can take 50 miles or so to really burp. The ones I’ve worked on seem to burp in 10-15 miles. Good luck and thanks for giving my channel a look.
@@bayoudieselYes Sir before replacing lines to the heads and adding crossover line there was no apparent issues, she would fire up snappy each time and would get oil pressure pretty much immediately after. I crank it over 3 times for about 20 sec with about 30 sec in between. I’ve done that sequence-about 6-7 times already. Batteries I have were strong for most of that time however still no signs of life. Short of borrowing a diag tool to look at the numbers I’m not too sure what to do next. Possibilities of HPOP, LPOP, ICP,IPR or just a real pesky air bubble somewhere. I do apologize if I am passing on this headache to you, I am grateful for your initial response and do not expect anymore. It has just become a desperate situation as I need the truck to go for Monday.
I just did all of this myself. Had to take the ICP sensor out and a plug right after the oil inlet hose on the passenger side turn over the truck and let the air out. Once oil was pouring out of these locations I got some starter fluid let it crank then held it at 2K RPM’s until it would idle by itself. Had to do this for about 45 minutes until all air was out of the system.
