Tristan, Always unplug ICP sensor on the front drivers side head. It will then default to "Limp" mode to allow a faulty sensor to allow you to make it to a service location. IMPORTANT. Upgrade that starter to a 6.0 starter or high torque starter. Allows engine to spin over faster.
You guys are amazing. Your patients is over the top. You show the hard stuff & the grunt work. This is the kind of video you can learn from. Thank you to you both.
@@jerrykast7713 big thanks for the comment. We love to hear from you guys on what y’all want/need from a video. Also your comment helps us help others as well. Great to hear for ya and thanks for watchin. We’ll keep um coming.
I really enjoyed your video. I'm having the same kind of issues with my 7.3 2003 powerstroke F-350. Y'all really giving me some ideas on what to try next. And I really enjoyed that it's not in a mechanic shop set, more like what I'm going to be doing
Thanks. We just like keeping these ole gals on the road and like doing cool stuff with them. Appreciate the compliment and if you run into trouble hit me up if you need a question answered. I’ll be happy to give it a shot. Thanks for watchin
Thanks for the video! I'm going through ICP pressure issues myself. Just wanted to mention the 2.5 Vref you kept seeing was a dead giveaway from the start that something was wrong with your 5.0V reference voltage. Our PCM and sensors run off of that 5.0V reference, so if a sensor is bad or wire is chaffed and shorted (like in your case) it'll bring that voltage down. And if it's not at 5.0V your truck won't start. Either way, glad to see her come back to life after all the troubleshooting!
I agree bud. And thanks for sharing your info with me and the viewers. I really appreciate all you guys that contribute info for the benefit of off all of us who love these gals and are trying to keep them rolling.
All the sensors minus the IPR run off of 5V? The ipr voltage comes straight from the glow plug solenoid on the top of the engine on 97-98 7.3's it's a hard 12v
I took a second look at the video. Then I talked to my friend ( Retired Ford mechanic, Diesel specialist, He has been working on power strokes since the dawn of time.) I said what do you think the problem is after just changing oil lines and then you have a no start and the scanner shows ICP 97.42 and IPR 15% before cranking. Right out of the gate he said short in wiring, probably right at the 42 pin connector where it touches the valve cover. Both of those reading should have read 0"s before cranking. So now we know if there is ever anything showing other than a 0 before cranking, there is a short giving you them readings and go to them wires.
This video helped me so much. I had enough oil according to the dipstick but it was really low in the hpop. Started right up after I topped it off! Fwiw a condiment squirt bottle works great for this. Like you find at the bbq joints. I’m sure you boys are familiar with these 😊 I hope you stay inspired to keep making videos for these diesels. Your humble approach is lovely and welcoming for a non mechanic such as myself. Send my gratitude to Tristan as well. Blessings to you both.
Thanks for the compliment. And we have around 100 videos mostly on 7.3’s. Feel free to surf around. Might find something interesting. Thanks for watchin
Hey thanks for the neat comment, glad you enjoyed it. Definitely bayou diesel for the win, can’t say enough good about that man. We’ve been working side by side for about a year now, quite a few accomplishments down. Some I couldn’t even imagine just a year ago!
That’s great and I appreciate the comments. Always good to hear people enjoyed the videos. We’ll keep them coming. Maybe they can help you with your truck. Thanks for watching.
It was definitely and education. But after going thru damn near everything we finally got it figured. Thanks for watchin and appreciate you giving some time to the channel.
Buddy I'm happy for you,,. I basically had the same problem with my 7,3 power stroke. I replaced a lot of the same stuff you replaced,,. I was driving it home after I got it running,. One of the high pressure oil line's started leaking so bad it leaked so much oil out the engine quit running, I got it home finally, 1900 dollars down,. Im really disappointed, Hope someday to get it running,,. Thanks for the video, and the advice,. GodBless
Hey there sorry about the very late response, I’m definitely familiar with that feeling of getting in the ring with one of these ole trucks and getting beats round left and right lol. I guess the important thing is to not quit until you start hearing bells. But one real plus on these heui type engines is that they will shut off before they run out of oil, definitely a good fail safe. Thanks for your kind words and I hope that everything worked out good for you in the end of it. God bless you and yours. Much regards, Triston.
I watched a video the other day about 7.3 motors and the Machine said to replace the harness system. wires with the whole wiring system and that will solve just about any problem from the start, So I guess he was right that was your issue! I will surely do that with mine if I have some crazy problems as I saw here! Good to know the Machine knew what he was talking about!
Yep. A good bit of the problems these ole girls have is 20 year old wiring. It can be pretty frustrating to diagnose. Thanks for the comment and hope you enjoyed the video and maybe got a little something out of it.
@@bayoudiesel Yes I have a 1999 350 1-ton for a work trunk so far it has treated me pretty good I got it brand new so I keep it garage-kept and do what I can to keep it running smooth! I enjoyed the video
Great video guys! Can't believe y'all weren't throwing tools, cussin' or drinkin' by the end of that repair!!! I think I'm gonna call Riff Raff right now and order me a wiring harness!!! By the way, I liked and subscribed, I like you two fellas!
We kinda went the long way around the barn but got her figured out. FYI, just because you didn’t see the cussing and bitching just means I did a good job editing. Lol. We appreciate the comments and hope they were helpful or at least enjoyable to watch. Thanks for giving the channel some of your time. We’ll keep um coming.
@@mark23487 nope you are not the only one. Lmao. I regularly got to time laps with no audio if I’m feeling the colorful language rising up in me. It’s mechanic work, if u ain’t cussin u ain’t doin it right.
@@bayoudieselI have a 02 7.3 new engine with about 40k and it got moist around the block near the pulleys…what can it be? I have one right on bell housing I’m not sure if it’s separate or it’s coming down from there, also near the hot/ cold pipes there’s a bit of moisture as well? Any ideas… another thing to mention is my diff has a leak straight down the middle from the middle top bolt to bottom bolt I don’t think it’s the sensor, and just yesterday I hear a squeaking/ squealing could be separate but not sure…the previous owner says the tranny was went through when the engine was done but not rebuilt or anything…any ideas?
Thanks bud. We kinda went the long way around the barn on this one. She has been running like a champ tho. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin
Im having a issue with my 7.3. It ran fine coming back from Florida on the interstate doing about 70-75 mph, i live in north Georgia. I go out to head to another job thats only an hour from my house. It started up fine and idled fine but kept blowing white smoke. I figured it was because the cold and started out. Topped off my fuel and continued on. It started smoking pretty bad and every now and then it would pop a few times (back fire) and it would start to lose power. I turned around to head back home and the check engine light came on. Stopped at two different autozones to get them to run codes and nothing was coming up in their coder. WTH is wrong with this ford? Besides being a ford....
Kinda sounds like a sticky injector. Ya May want to have someone with a decent scan tool see if there are any codes and monitor some live data. The scanners at az aren’t worth a crap. Place your hand near the tail pipe in the smoke and see if it smells rich or sweet? Rich is something dumping fuel and sweet is burning coolant.
@@bayoudiesel big rig trucks are like that, the mechanical stuff is so reliable, but the engines have a lot of vibrations, especially at idle, so the poor wiring harness is just cheapy passenger car grade, and can't handle the vibration cycles that the mechanical parts of a diesel motor can handle. When I worked on the commercial fishing boats in Alaska, we'd get this special grade of wire, basically same size, but made of many more, finer strands of copper, like the difference between a high quality welding leed, and a cheap battery cable, welding cable is like a slinky, battery cable is like a 2x4 in comparison, hah. We found that even if you couldn't upgrade the wiring connectors for whatever reason, the more flexible wire put a lot less load on them when things were vibrating. The marine heat shrink tubing, with the glue inside is good for preventing wire chafe, and if it's real bad you can put a little piece of rubber hose, split around the chafe spot, then heat shrink tubing that I place. Liquid electrical tape is good for same thing, and I would put a dab where wires go into connectors, where they get unappreciated first usually. This is all probably overkill for a daily driver truck, but that's the tricks we used on the fish boats, where if the motor went down in a storm, everyone died, hah.
@@bondvagabond42 that’s some good info. I prefer a little over kill than not enough. Another thing people fail to realize is that these 7.3’s are all 20 + years old and plastic parts now days aren’t made to last that long. All good ideas to keep in mind for keeping old iron rolling. Appreciate the input.
I have done a lot with my old one 7.3 and I know a lot about the HPOP now so it takes 4 volts to the ipr valve to run into each volt is about one thousand psi and max pressure is 4000 and the pcm runs the ipr not the idm mine pcm failed so I could jump 12 to it and it would run and stay running but once I shut it down then it would not start up again and if you every have trouble starting and you don’t see the wait to start light unplug the ebp sensor and the other is the icp and one more thing to check befor replacing the hpop is pull the valve covers and make sure the injector pressure is not leaking but the injector at the top and at the base where it meets the head it don’t take much to reduce the hpop pressure hope this helps
Thanks for the info. Ended up that chafed wires were preventing communication between the pcm and ipr. Ipr couldn’t get a signal so it was staying wide open so we couldn’t built hpop pressure. Thanks for watchin and commenting
just started the video but had to comment because bein a florida boy myself i was like, hmmm that accent, must be Louisiana..... i look around and notice the name, knew it! lol good shit
Thanks for the compliments. We learned a lot as well. Think this video has me texting and phoning more people fighting weird trouble than any other video in a while.
Yes sir. We were trying to get her running again first. Then we got the cups redone, some ac stuff and even some brakes. Giving the ole gal a good freshening up.
I hit up a couple of viewers and they both said the dealership is where they got theirs. If I recall they ran around $600-700. One viewer sent a link to his ford dealer if you would like it hit me up on my email and I’ll pass it on to ya. Bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com
Hello Mike, Thank you for the comment and the offer most definitely! And sorry about the late response, I’m wondering is it the IPR coil that we talking are about? @MikeConnor.akaRadio
@@vincebotkin1960 ran the hpop with and without springs all I can say truck starts faster with springs and yes bought the lines from aeroquip there's 90 but gone just to go back to factory again.
Hi joe thanks for the comment! For the constant tension clamps they say BD power on them. Not too sure on the boots themselves that’s how it came when I bought it.
@@DeepSouthBayouDiesel I know exactly where he was from. Had a partner back in the day that had a deer camp up there. He would head that way to hunt deer and I would head south to Houma to hunt ducks on the weekends.
I’m new to the 7.3 (new to diesels completely actually) but I’ve been wrenching for rears. I’ve had a problem with a bad oil leak(obviously normal) but it’s a real bad one I did turbo pedestal, oil rail plugs, lines, hpop plug, and last resort was rear main seal. Well I just finished rear main seal and when I went to start it up after I was finished it fired up for a second and died(it did that 3 times) but now it won’t fire at all, just cranks. I checked if I was getting fuel and everything and is good until I looked in hpop reservoir and it’s empty. It has new crank sensor new icp new Ipr 2 brand new duralast gold batteries I’ve checked all fuses I have no clue what it could be. It ran and drove perfect before I did the rear main seal I drove up to my shop and onto the lift and now it just won’t start. Can anyone help me lmao
Should also mention I was told to try to unplug icp and try starting, I tried that but did not work. Should the resolve fill its self while cranking? Or am I wrong about that and do I need to prime it myself?
Seems to me that the oil galleys and possibly the hpop reservoir were emptied while you were conducting your repairs. This can take a while to refill. I usually will fill the galleys (as much as you can) thru the icp hole on the driver side and one of the caps on top of the passenger side. Probably in the middle for easy access. Then top off the reservoir this will help get some of the air out of that system. If she cranks and dies again just check the reservoir and keep it topped off. Should be a 1/2 in or so from the top. You can’t over fill so don’t worry about that. Ounce she is running you’ll probably need 40 miles or so of driving to completely burp that system. Do some close to home driving then if you feel confident get he on the highway and put your foot in it a bit. She should clear up. Also don’t worry about the occasional funny start up till it’s all burped. Side note if you pulled any injectors or introduced fluid into the cylinders you will need to purge that first. But is sounds like you haven’t gotten that far in so you should be good
Trying to find a reasonably priced scan tool to diagnose what I think is a similar issue to what you had on this 7.3 what’s the name of the scanner you’re using or do you have any suggestions?
Several ppl I know use forescan but they have quite a few new scanners out there. Mine is an older genesis unit that I picked up from a mechanic who was upgrading.
I’m just seeing this and im just wondering when you had that hpop out and empty that reservoir could you remove the fuel filter bowl? Or no…i have no idea but just wondering if someone can explain. I’m no mechanic
You could remove the fuel filter bowl and the. Go after the hpop. We pulled the hpop with out removing the fuel bowl because it appeared to be less work that way. And less chance of having something break while removing it.
I’m having trouble with this 03 7.3 the engine was removed to replace the oil pan gasket I think the low pressure oil pump lost it’s prime being upside down I can not get any HPOP pressure the engine ran just fine before my friend’s idiot kids took out the engine is there a way I can prime the LPOP without taking the pump off I’m a retired GM drivability tech and know my way around with a wrench I used to rebuild the GM DIESEL injection pumps all the time and would use wd40 to get the engines back to life I disconnected the glow plugs to fire the engine on this 7.3 and it wouldn’t even fire on either I’m at a loss and need some advice can U please advise
First, do ya have a scan tool to show live data? When cranking are you seeing lpop oil pressure on the gage? Have you checked the hpop reservoir to make sure it is filling and is fullv
@Bayou Diesel I heard that and thanks man I appreciate it the one I was looking at was neglected alot and he want 2500 for it but the engine seems good just gonna have to put alot into it
It up to you. I have had trouble with some of the fuel bowl fittings breaking on these old gals. So sometimes I just don’t want to open a can of worms. Lol But it definitely gives you more room to work and see what you are doing.
@@bluetwo7282 everyone has an opinion on oil. I use shell Rotella 15-40. I’m in Louisiana so we don’t have to much of an issue with the cold. If you are up north you can get Rotella in a 5-40 for the cold months or just run 5-40 year round.
You might have a leak causing the oil pressure not to raise or the High Pressure pump is worn out! Just not pumping enought I would service the high pressure pump first then see where the leaks are!
Thanks for the info. Our problem ended up being 11 frayed wires in the harness. Two of which were causing a short in the ipr circuit not letting the pcm to communicate with the ipr so it would never close.
The max we could get for icp pressure was in the 160 range. PCM won’t even pulse injectors till it sees over 520psi min. Ipr is spring loaded to open when not being commanded. So icp pressure seen will be relevant to how good the hpop is. When pcm operates the ipr it pinches off holding the asked for back pressure.
@@bayoudiesel Only one sensor will put you dead in the water. Cam sensor. The IPR showed 64 % which means it was fully closed and not bypassing any oil. Doesn’t matter Whether or not the icp is hooked. Oil pressure will fire the injectors. No pressure no fire. HPOP, first two were bad. I just went through the same thing with my Adrenaline HPOP. Also I just purchased an engine harness for my truck as a back up.
@@vincebotkin1960 the extra harness is a good idea. Both of these hpop’s were pumping out around 3700psi. The frayed wires were keeping the pcm from being able to communicate with the ipr. So she couldn’t tell the ipr what she wanted and couldn’t see that it was responding. Replacing the harness dialed her back in. Appears that when Triston replaced hpop lines he disturbed the harness and some of those frayed wires shorted causing his no start. Appreciate the feed back. The more info we have the better we can diagnose. Thanks for giving my channel some of your time as well.
I appreciate the comment but even with the larger hoses we were getting 3800 pounds from the pump. So psi wasn’t a problem. Just the shorted wires preventing communication between the pcm and the ipr. Ounce wires were repaired it was all good. She’s been running like a champ for the past 7 months.
psi= flow(positive pressure)+ resistance(IPR VALVE). We were getting no resistance so the truck flows with not enough pressure to start(about 500 psi). We were just moving oil around at 280 psi with just the starter.
I got a 7.3 that slowly started romping now it just wants to romp all the time. Get a check engine light soon as it starts. Any idea why? I couldn’t figure it out, shop can’t figure it out… only codes have been coolant temp sensor they said, and I saw a camshaft position sensor once that never came back. Gonna go try to top off my hpop through the small hole see if that hopefully helps…
Hey bud. I doubt the coolant code is apart of it but not impossible. Cps could cause that. Does it do this on start up? If so try putting it in neutral then crank her up and see if ya get a normal “lope free” crank
It started doing it right after startup and would go away after a few seconds. Progressively got worse to after starting it just wants to romp. Changed the oil, got better for a day. I’m in New Orleans y’all close by?
@@williambarnett7518 you can also try unplugging icp and starting her up. I’m in the Lafayette area. Do you have access to a scanner to watch live numbers?
Yeah not a real handheld scanner but I have a cheap scanner and app that I saved live data from. I could probably email it or if I knew what to look for tell you what’s going on. I remember all the gauges would go goofy together at the same time, apparently I have to go to the truck and connect to the scanner to access the saved live data files though.
La pérdida de potencia puede deberse a varias cosas. ¿Puedes darme una mejor descripción de lo que está haciendo? Quiero reducir la lista de cosas que debemos verificar para no perder tiempo en cosas que no tienen nada que ver con su camión. Además, ¿tiene acceso a una herramienta de escaneo para extraer códigos de la computadora del camión? Lo siento si no puedo responderte tan rápido. Tengo que estar en mi escritorio para pasar sus preguntas por el traductor y luego hacer lo mismo con mis respuestas.
11 chafed wires in the 42 pin harness ended up being the cause. When he replaced the hpop lines the harness was moved around to get in there and ipr wire was shorted not allowing communication with the pcm so the ipr was staying full open and not building any pressure. Ounce the harness was replaced the truck ran fine. And has been running well sense. Hope that helps. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
We had thought about that but decided to dead head the pump with a gage to verify that we were actually making pressure. And it was putting out well over 3k psi
Sounds like the start signal isn’t making it to the solenoid or the solenoid May be bad. Pull the small wire slip on terminal and see if you are getting power when key is in start. If yes then probably solenoid. If no then we have to see why we can’t get signal
Nope. This one had 11 frayed wires that were rubbed raw by the loom. Worked fine till they got disturbed while swapping hoses then a short caused loss of communication between the pcm and the ipr. No ipr, no hpop pressure. Thanks for the comment and appreciate you watchin.
At the end of the video when the truck is shaking real bad and blowing white smoke. How do you fix that problem. My 7.3 has a vary bad shake and lots of white smoke. It was running fine until I got my injector’s remained. Could it just be air in the system?? Also passed the buzz test. Also unplugged each bank 1 at a time and they all changed how the truck was running so I think I can rule out valve cover gasket
After pulling injectors you have drained the oil galleys. It takes a while driving the truck at different speeds to purge all that air out. The hpop is a hydrolic system to actuate the poppets in the injectors. Air makes the oil bubbly and air compresses where oil doesn’t. I usually run a truck staying close to home till she starts clearing up then run her on some longer runs. To clear it up. Hit me back and let me know how that works or if I can help with something.
Thanks for the info. We found a dozen chaffed wires on the engine side of the 42 pin plug. That was causing a short and prevented the pcm from being able to communicate with the ipr. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
Its your low pressure oil pump not the high pressure pump. The spec tolerance of the low pressure pump drops with wear and will not maintain oil in the upper reservoir, even if you add oil through the alllan opening. A new low pressure pump will maintain the oil in the reservoir and will then let the ICP sensor exceed the required 500 psi and have engine start. You should also pull the ICP sensor and see if the ICP defaults to 750 psi when disconnected to test the ICP, which it seems you didn't try yet. If the ICP disconnected still doesn't let the engine start, then its the low pressure pump. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ejQ5SDlk-fY.html
That’s all good info and there were some items we check off camera or that didn’t make the cut. We weren’t concerned about the lpop cause the truck had been running fine. All that was initially done was hpop hose swap. Then no start. Issue ended up being about a dozen frayed wires in the loom near the 42 pin connector that was disturbed while manipulating the hoses. This cut off communication between the pcm and ipr. Ounce that was fixed she got to purring again and has been running great for almost a year now. Appreciate the info and thanks for watchin.
Hey bud. Appreciate the comment. Lpop was all good. Ended up being 11 chafed wires in the engine harness that got disturbed while replacing hpop lines. Cause the pcm to loose communication with the ipr. She’s been running like a champ for quite some time. Thanks for watchin.
@Bayou Diesel , I initially had a stalling issue. Suspected ICP problem. Unplugged ICP, drove truck for a week and stalling stopped. Replaced ICP. SES light comes on and off in relation to throttle position with rough idle once engine is at operating temp. I had a shop diagnose the problem and they stated that the ICP was bad and this was only a few months after I just replaced it. KOEO, I check for 5 volt reference at ICP connector and it was correct. Should I replace ICP again or should I get more diagnostics performed?
Could be the ignition switch under the steering column or more likely the neutral safety switch if it’s an automatic. Try starting it in neutral or giggling the shifter while in park to see if it try’s.
Ended up being 11 frayed wires near the 42 pin plug. The loom had rubbed them bare and when the hpop lines were replaced the harness was disturbed causing a short that prevented communication with the ipr
Unplug the IPR, and you will get zero fuel... That's a fact. The coil moves a spool valve, and without movement, no high pressure oil to drive fuel out of the injectors.
You can’t unplug ipr. It will prevent it from being able to close and generate hi pressure oil pressure. You could un plug ipr and make a jumper and send 12 volts to ipr which would make it close fully and give max pressure as a test. If truck cranks during the test but won’t crank when hooked up normally that could indicate bad ipr. Also u can unplug the icp sensor which is the pressure sensor for the hpop and try to crank. That causes a default pressure reading to the pcm and will enable cranking.
I though so to for a while but she Had good rpm’s showing on the tach and scanner. This one ended up being chafed wires to the ipr. New engine harness and she has been running fine. Appreciate the comment. And thanks for watchin.
