This is the best HueForge explainer video I've seen to date (Absolutely blows most of mine out of the water)! Thank you for making this and exploring HueForge. I've been watching your videos for years since I first bought an Ender 3 Pro in 2019 and was hoping to talk to you about HueForge after ERRF but you beat me to it. I will say that the Geometry dock is next to the Slider dock because it's my second most commonly used dock, but you made fantastic prints without ever touching it!
Just want to say thank you for opening up this awsome application of 3d printing. Im waiting on my new printer after a break of a several years, with one of my main goals being to start hue forging!
It's definitely a great video & looks like a great software, nice work. But how can you call something Lifetime when it's only 2 years??? No updates or bug fixes after two years, thats not Lifetime. Sounds like it's $45 a year, even after you pay for a lifetime license. Quote: "Lifetime users do not need to renew annually, but will cease receiving bug fixes and new features two years post purchase. They will however retain all usage rights and commercial rights regardless. Further updates will be made available at the Limited Commercial annual rate." Which is $45 a year???
Brazilian here. Have been following your videos for quite a while now, I love when you low key use Senna's apparel, and this double feature with Pelé was top notch! The video definitely interested me in trying this technique. Thank you for helping the 3D Printing community so much over those years! Muito obrigado!
It isn't low key. He is literally wearing his shirts in most videos. People need to quit slipping low key in to every sentence. I don't understand why everyone wants to sound like a dumb teenage girl when they speak. Its like so based like a gigachad GOAT.
As someone who’s been hueforging since day one this is an amazing video. Steve also said this will be where he sends people if they need a detailed tutorial! Well done as always.
I've been working with Bambu's CMYK filament pack and their lithophane maker, and the results have been...unsatisfactory, to say the least. The mixing isn't very good, and it turns out extremely pixelated no matter what I do with it. I like the concept, but I decided to hold off on playing with it until the technology advanced more. Now I'm regretting burning through all of the fancy filament, because this looks exactly like what I was waiting for.
Hey, if I may, 17:35 - I would use concentric infill, so the print path follows the contour of the printed object. I think, that could give a stunning outcome.
@@mitchcamp8239Well, I 3d print for a specific purposes. Because of that, I use concentric all the way. It gives the same outcome like printing with 99999 perimeters + 0 top/bottom solid layers.
Lots of clueless peeps watch your videos it seems "i can do this in blender derp derp" "should be free because im too cheap to pay $12". & No you cant do this in blender
But if they made this program themselves they’d want to charge $100.. everybody wants $1 million when they sell something and they want it for free when they buy it.. it’s the way of society these days.
Paying 18$ once is nothing. What sucks is when companies don't let you buy the product and want you to rent it even if you're not interested in any upgrades.
ik but at least is better than refusing to use it because i have to pay for it each mont. Lifetime license is just the ussual way of buying a progrom. Only difference is that that's the formal/legal way of naming it.
Thanks for doing this! I purchased a license when it first came out, but so far have only printed others projects from Prinables. As you mentioned it is overwhelming when you first look at it, this will help a lot
Thanks for the video and one of t he best explanations, I have always done something similar with just black and white. The black I used up till the last flat layer on a lithopane but printing them flat and then do color/filament swap and do the rest of the print that way giving me black to grey to white gradient to make out the image
What would be better is if you could put in an a picture and list the colors you have and HUEforge do its best to replicate the original image. I bought Hueforge but I have no use for the software as it doesn't produce anything like the original just crazy off color gradients.
Thank you so much for the tutorial! I really appreciate the clear and detailed way you explained everything. It made learning about Hue Forge simple and fun! Opinion: Excellent guide! Easy to follow and very helpful.
Great tutorial, I'm curious if TPU can be printed well also with HueForge. I'm so happy that it works well with Polymaker fillaments because I never had any big issue with them.
Cheers for this video.. I calibrated all my filaments in the past but always struggled to select the actual colour on hueforge to get a true representation on my screen. Loved your idea with the taking a photo and using editing software to get the rgb value, but when I went to do it today I noticed you can actually do it in hueforge itself! In the "change colour" screen there is a button below the colour panels saying "pick screen colour" this then let's you move your cursor around a photo you have open in a different window and see the colour in real time before selecting it to make sure your eyes see it the same way as it is on screen. This should hopefully make calibrating that bit more accurate. 👍
If it parks away from the print, absolutely. Only disadvantage is it won't automatically retract and offer an interface to reload and purge for most printers. If you can do that manually then all good.
There is always something new to discover or develop in the wonderful world of 3d printing, be it hardware or software. Thank you for sharing this great idea with us!
Great tutorial ! For the P1P Users without an AMS Unit out there which are expieriencing a slight Offset after the M600 with Filament Swapping in between have a look at this GCODE: M104 220 ; Preheats the Nozzle to 220 G1 X60 Y265 ; Moves the Printhead above the poop chute M400 U1 ; Makes a pause, M400 is the Bambulab Command alternative to M600 G28 X Y ; Homes X and Y at the end to prevent the Offset/ Drift As always with GCODE from unreliable sources, use at your own risk and inspect the printer at the first execution, to make sure there aren't any problems
Hello, anyone having issue to import STL on hueforge ? i am about to calibrate filament (TD) with step test files, but i can't import STL in hue forge, i got the error message telling me it can't import other files than HFP, STL, SVG, JPG, JPEG, PNG, WEBP. i have a personnal licence and tried it both on v0.7.0 and v0.7.1
I am so confused by this. I was watching the video by Steve, who created these files on his RU-vid channel 'Dstrbdmedic167', and he too describes how to print these files. In the Bambu Slicer, he isn't applying any G-code at any layer changes like this guy here is doing. So which is it?
I have a problem with exported STL file from Hueforge. In Hueforge the file has 22 layers but when I open the stl file in Bambu it only has 12 layers. What is a possible solution for this dilemma?
This is a great video but you lost me on the "Calibrating a new filament". How did you save the test square as a n STL? I don't have any of the filaments in the library so that is where I started. This time I'll just use library filaments that are close just for practice, but it would be nice to add my own filaments at some point.
Thank you for the video. I need some help with something.. I am making a 2 color print and I want the outside to be black and the inside to be copper but no matter what I do in HueForge, it makes the outer edges lower than the inner. I need it to be the opposite. Basically, I need the outside to be higher than the inside. Does that make sense? Is this even possible?
This looks awesome and seems to be a no-brainer for the cost. I've had issues with pausing prints on Klipper but I'll be grabbing that M600 script to try out on the Seckit SK-Tank v2 I'm building :-)
All monochrome. I'm having massive problems working out how to assign specific colours in a posterised or full colour image. Can anyone point to a good explainer?
I've been waiting for this video! I had a question about Photoshop. Were you able to cut out the background on the free version of Photoshop (Adobe express I think) or do you have the paid version?
I'd like to say I think the software is awesome. But why isn't anyone talking about the absolutely horrible "commercial" license agreement? Basically, you have declared you made your product using their software. I could see if you were using a free version, but to pay for software AND need to brand their software?? That's a total no go for me. If every software maker followed this "license agreement" we would be posting a lot of branded content. Isn't it kind of like Microsoft saying, anything you make with software using this operating system you need to add a Microsoft logo? Horrible approach if you ask me. Just my 2 cents.
I don't know what you mean by "Brand their software". You simply need to display at point of sale your license. That means as an image in the gallery or as a direct link to the image of the certificate with your order number somewhere on the website where you are selling. It could be "Commercial License #1111" with a link to the certificate image. It's like being an "Authorized Reseller". Your print doesn't need any kind of HueForge branding on it.
This is basic commercial agreement stuff for small devs/creators, if you've never seen it then you're not the target audience. Especially considering most model creators already have that in their agreements even when you pay for their $30+/mo commercial agreements
This seems great for B&W but if you have something with a few bold colours it can be hit and miss. It would be good if there was a way to tell the app 'how many colour changes do I want' and for it to auto select filaments from the 'owned' list to get the best balance. I don't think it can do that? Also - I know this isn't a hueforge use case necessarily - but if you have your colours already, it'd be good if the app could generate the layers/STL for you without mixing. Eg if you already have cartoon art in 4 colours, pick those filaments and generate the layers. The kind of thing that is doable manually but a pain.
Had some beginner experience with my sons 3d printer, learned a lot....came across Hue Forge and thought that looks great but as you mentioned there is no documentation.....So very pleased you uploaded this..Love your channel/uploads as I have learned a lot...gonna try my first print. Thank you :O)
Am I missing something? This seems to be just a shader for an overall image. I don't really see a way you can produce a full color image with any accuracy.
Looks awesome! Would love to open source this and improve upon it. A lot of the tech is already there, we just have to blend it in a similar way. I'll get to work! :)
I love your tutorial videos. Would it be possible to cover the M600 filament change in the Sonic Pad? Apparently they added the feature, but I haven't had any luck with it and attempting to do a custom macro just results in an error that M600 already exists. Thanks.
I have a Ender 3 S1 pro. When I add m600, it pops up a low filament message, goes to park, poops out a string of filament, waits a few seconds, then resumes printing. It does this on each layer. Not just where I put the custom code. Any idea what's happening? Do I need to add some kind of park and wait code?
Great Tutorial as ever and my apologies for asking what may be a simple question but how do you get the STL from Hue Forge so I can load it into Bambu slicer? Everything I have tried doesn't seem to work.
Wow, this is a brilliant video, Came across Hueforge by accident and was totally confused what it actually was and what it was doing. This video has explained everything and for me went a step further with the explanation on using a Bambu AMS (which I own). The way you have described everything is so clear the instructions just register. It is an incredibly good piece of software and the possibilities seem endless. Thanks
Omg ..this is gonna make things so much easier ...I've been printing flat multicoloured prints on my AC i3 for a while working out the layers on Photoshop the making each layer into its own STL then overlaying each layer to create the final image then working out where to use a pause command ... Took me bloody ages ...this program takes all that tedious legwork away ....thank you for uploading this and introducing me to this awesome program 👌
It would be so much better if this could be done in reverse, so that the image comes out on the bed. Combining that with a holographic bed plate would be perfect.
Oh this is perfect! Im making shell for my p1p and i was looking into options to add some 3d printed visuals into it, i was thinking lithos until i found this!
hi ive been having some issues with printing square pictures where the corners or edges keep peeling up while printing especially anything over 200 on hight or width was wondering if you had ran into this issue at all and how you fixed it i was thinking maybe its the bed temp but not to sure. whats the best temp for the bed while printing these i have a bambu a1 with a .4 nozzle
Omg. This is a fantastic idea for Christmas gifts. My dad has a pic of my brother and I that he loooves, but is slowly degrading over time. I could easily edit this then print it in 2 or 3 sets so he can hang it in the garage 🤔
Ohhhh this is a solid video. I've had some good early success with HueForge but I hadn't learned how to calibrate my own filaments yet. This is huge thank you!
Your videos are clear and concise. It is great to watch as it promotes creativity and experimentation for everyone. My first custom scratch built 3d printer I built was about 11 years ago based on the Makerbot. Now, I have finally built my last printer, Voron 2.4 R2 350. I have built the Enraged Rabbit 9 colour option for it. Your experience is a really great reference to expand our knowledge. I'm a tekkie, and I love to try and build new tech (building an MPCNC and Lowrider 3 too which you have already covered). All this info helps to build on this. MANY THANKS for the the time you invest and the experience and knowledge you provide. Cheers!
great video , the only question i have its that setup print setings on the slicer ....the names on the prusa slicer are not the same on the cura slicer ...any help with that please ? thanks
@@TeachingTech The ideal thing would be to have a software solution extract an image and arrange the high positive and low negative areas as this does with filament colour layers.
You could try using a black and white image (no grays) in a lithophane generator. It should make the black all one height, and the white all one, lower height. With a flexible filament im not sure why you couldnt produce a linocut like effect for plate printing.
It is not in the built in library no. I haven't ever heard of it, let along gotten any to calibrate. If you do get it and calibrate your filaments, I'm very happy to add them.
Is there anything in this workflow which calculates the approximate print time elapsed to each of the filament changes? I don't have an AMS and I'm not likely to hover over my printer. It would be nice to set a timer and come back when the change is ready.
If all you are thinking about is a hammer, everything around you looks like a nail. This is using the wrong tool for the job. Interesting, yes. But crappy results. @@kasiya2660
Two works well, but you almost certainly want the second color to be high TD to get good blending. It probably also needs to be thinner than you expect.
There can be a variety of reasons for this. 1) You scaled the print in BambuStudio - don't do this, scale it in HueForge 2) Your layer height settings aren't exactly the same 3) The mesh had some really small details at the higher levels (little spikes) and once sliced, they went away those are a few possibilities in the order from most to least likely in my experience.
@@vince2lille you can scale larger as long as you only scale XY and not Z (uncheck the uniform scaling) but shrinking it isn't recommended because it reduces the Min Details and leads to poorer prints/clogs.
The developer of HueForge really needs to focus more on making this process simpler. Nobody wants to purchase the program just to have to cobble together the "rest of the owl".
