In this video we show you how and why you should primer your plastic kit before painting. Humbrol products used in this video; AD6001 - No.1 Primer AD6033 - No.33 White Matt AD6034 - No.34 Black Matt www.humbrol.com/
For those of you here in the UK, if you do a lot of modelling, then I suggest you go to Halfords and get their grey primer (used for cars). It comes in large 500ml spray cans, unlike the piddly little 150ml cans that Humbrol give and the Halfords 500ml cans are far cheaper and the the quality seems better too in my opinion. You just need to give it a light sanding after spraying with wet and dry sand paper. I've used Halfords grey primer for years and never had a problem on my plastic models. Acrylics work well over it. Halfords also have a primer for plastics but that's used for bumpers which are ABS so I would avoid that one. Just use the normal one, primer comes in grey, white and red.
Terrible advice, don't use automotive paints for anything unless you have a respirator AND a spray booth. They are cheaper, yes, but what you save in money you pay with your health, since these kind of paints contain isocyanates.
You actually can sand this primer! Just got to be sure that you sand with water using wet/dry sand paper. I never have trouble with ridging. Best primer I have ever ever used. Love you guys, keep up the brilliant work.
Im pretty sure that this is an acrylic lacquer based spray and not a typical waterbased one. You should be quite safe using enamels over it if I am right. Try read on the can if it contains stuff like n-Butylacetate,etyl acetate, Xylene, Toluene or 1 metoxy-2-propanol.
I don't know what it is but for me 29 Matt Dark Earth goes on the best and the smoothest compared to the matt grey/white/black! The black seems to attack the plastic whereas the brown leaves a lovely finish. All my models have a base layer of brown before any spray painting is done. I've noticed if you spray the satin colours it madly attacks the plastic and ruins the finish.
It really does depend on the size of your models. 1:35 scale models are all different shapes and sizes, you may also want to apply more than one base coat, this will have an effect.
I'm wanting to paint my halftrack panzer gray, and the panzer gray paint I have happens to be a primer. Would it be a good idea to use the panzer gray primer as the primer and base coat?
If anyone wonders if this spray is a water based acrylic its not. I checked the ingredients it contains acetone and hydrocarbons so I belive it might be pretty much the same stuff as the Citadel sprays witch also contains acetone and hydrocarbons. This means that this Humbrol spray is safe to use enamels on top of. Also it will dry fast witch is good. Solvent based primers are always the best primers!
It's an acrylic primer... does it adhere well to the plastic? I first used the bottled testors acryl primer with acrylic paints. The primer was a nice "primer" in all respects save that it didn't adhere very well to the plastic. The base coat stuck to the primer well but the primer could be pulled away from the model with masking tape (taking the base coat with it). I used some Tamiya laquer primer on my last acrylic paint model and didn't have adhesion problems.
If I had an aircraft with a basic two-tone camouflage, could I use two primers? I ask as I'm in the process of making an F4F-4 Wildcat. It has a very dark grey for the top of the aircraft, and a white for the underside. I sprayed the entire aircraft in grey primer, but am now having issues getting the white to look good. It's ended up looking very patchy and still has a grey tone showing through it even after 3-4 coats of white acryllic.
They also do different colours so if your like me I can't buy a airbrush then you can mask using blue tac and tape wich leaves it with an airbrushed look
I want to paint my Brass HO scale steam locomotive and was wondering if the black primer would be the best choice? I've been told to use self etching primer for painting Brass.
If I could read the tiny instructions on the can, I wouldn't be looking them up on the Internet! Oh, and the video doesn't mention how long to leave the model before overpainting, defeating the object of coming here.
I'm painting in the living room. The smell is delicious haha however I do make sure the backdoor and windows are all open and I relocate my dog upstairs to one of the bedrooms where I have that window also open and the door closed enough so she can still get out. I find with model building the actual painting part isn't a constant never ending chore. More you have much work preparing your pieces for a short painting session followed by drying and more preparation with a touch of cleaning equipment in the interlude between painting some more. The smell usually goes by the time you've cleaned all your workspace. I'm set up on my pretty new desk which I've taped the model box and some other cardboard boxes and plastic sheet to the surface of to protect from the solvents and paints. The only thing you need to be mindful of is the particles being blasted in to the air, especially around your face, mouth, nose eyes. The heavier your finger presses that aerosol can, the more puff your goin to get. Not good if your spraying near your old ladies best vases.
i have a model i need to paint. the whole thing is red, but 3 different shades (on pieces easily separated). if i used the three different colour primers on different pieces but use the same red colour spray on top of the different primers will the red come out different shades??? sorry if that seems a stupid question but i dont have an airbrush yet and finding different shades of red in spraycan form is not easy.
NO ! SIMONIZ, FAR BETTER AND FAR CHEAPER ! YOUR MULTI EFFECT PAINT IS CRAP TOO ! TAMIYA FOR THESE EFFECTS EVERYTIME, RETIRED SPRAYER HERE, SORRY BUT YOUR PAINT IS ONLY FIT FOR THE BIN!
I live in Canada and I can't seem to find one of those stands/holders he is using in the video. I need one of those to hold my model when I paint it, anyone know where to find them?
It would be better to prime it white given how black is a contrast and you'll get a more solid white, otherwise you're going to be doing tons of layers.
Joe I'd just spray it white and paint the black using a brush or airbrush. By the way, which Saturn V do you have? I've been wanting to do one for ages.
I would love to get a fast response but what model was that Propeller Model? It looks like a spit fire, but what was the brand and part #? It looked liek it had moveable control surfaces and that's exactly what I'm looking for!
wyattcon11 It's the Airfix 1/48 scale Supermarket Seafire FR.47/48, part no is A06103, it seems to be out of stock in most places, but you can find one on eBay. Happy building
I bought the humbrol paints and the primer in the small pots and they are rubbish no matter how much you thin them down the Finnish is horrible, witch is why they have-not shown you how to airbrush these paints oh there site
The Master Hurst It is probably because they weren't manufactured to be thinned down and applied by airbrush. If you don't know, ask them "does this work if I do this".
Tom McEvoy must be a faulty can , my 64 grey works fine , just this primer , it’s sort of worked in my favour as it gives the tanks bodywork more texture
