What Color Primer Should You Use? 

hmmm....I don't think henry ford said that 😂

@@memphis_sean8169 He said it in a panel at GenCon.

He said that about the Ford model T. Interestingly enough it was available in essentially any colour you wanted however due to it's increasingly high demand he made it so that it could only be purchased in black.

OH, I see you are a man of wealth and taste... Pleased to meet you.

The Metal is strong with you, Traveler.

@@rzbonilla I hope you guessed my name

@@Pao-wb4hp What is puzzling me is the nature of your game...

I see the Boyz march by built in a Warrior pose/I have to prime them all 'til none of their plastic shows!

I'm wanting to paint a fallout character, she has a lot of skin. So should I prime it her skin color or could I do white?

@@alishabiermann3618 white

That's all good but usually the primer paint isn't the same as the base/layer paints so you may see a slight difference in finish. I prime my models black but I still paint the black parts again 😂

​@alishabiermann3618 out of those two options I'd go for white personally

Dude owes you 100 bucks hard

@@charlesgray6385 true. Go get em

If you'd been wrong he'd wanted his hundo. A bet is a bet

Did u end up getting that cash? If he didn't pay up, then declare him a welcher for life from this moment on.

@@TheGoldenDragon_ If it was purely digital I'm sure they didn't shake on it, so any bets are null and void.

And a good # of space marine chapters (Silver Skulls, Steel Confessors, maybe Grey Knights, maybe Iron Snakes)... You could also probably do some great weathering on some nurgle-esque mostly metallic traitor legions or even a Tzeentch Thousand Sons offshoot where they spirit inside the armor had let the armor flake and lose it's color)...

Cant imagine dwarvrs without leadbelcher spray.

I prime spacemarines silver - then paint the color I wish. over time they weather themselves!

Olaf Olafson This is a bit of proper genius lol

Grzegorz Zych my friend is arguably the best mini painter in my D&d/ 40k group but he chose necrons due to how easy they are to paint, and I’m just thinking about all that wasted talent; the biggest of Oof’s

Definitely agree. Stick with the ones labeled "automotive wet sandable". I've tried three different brands and each performed very well with plastic, even that crazy Reaper "Bones" material.

The Krylon Camo spray seems to have a very fine solid so that it doesn't obscure detail once it's dry. The spray cans made by Rustoleum seem pretty good too.

The thing I hate about water-based acrylic primers like Stynelrez or Vallejo is that they are a polyurethane primer which makes it like a flexible latex paint that is not sandable. Personally I prefer a good lacquer-based surface primer such as Tamiya or Mr. Surfacer which are sandable and go on super smooth. Mr. Surfacer is hands down the best primer I have ever used. Forget automotive primers. You are going to waste so much paint in your coverage. Just get yourself a small jar of Mr. Surfacer and cut it with Mr. Leveling Thinner 50/50 and airbrush it on and it will last and save you TONS over wasteful automotive rattle can primers. Also better for the environment by not using disposeable rattle cans going in landfills.

Oh so this is how this photos of space marines with melting heads and faces of Jason Voorhes are born.

How do you feel about the Rustoleom army camo for me priming up some Death Guards?

Happen to have a video of using that because it seems no one else can verify this? I'm new to this and I went straight to painting to save money sonI skipped the primer. Also a lot of people are talking about the whole "pick the right color to save time" point. Is there a clear colored primer?

Figures Of Perfection i have been striking out on getting this at my local store. They dont offer it via weborder. Made me sad due to the good results vs price.

Zacknafin really your local Walmart doesn’t have it ? How about Home Depot ?

Not enough people know about Halfords spray paint. It's very well rated, even in the automotive market.

@@omarspost Bu that doesn’t mean anything in the mini world. Plenty of auto sprays use different chemicals to help stick or coat to the metals on automobiles better, that can ruin the plastic on minis.

I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!

Not at all. It’s a great way to start your Blood Angels, Adeptus Mechanicus, or any other predominantly red army. Thanks for watching!

@@tabletopminions awesome. thanks for the reply, good sir

1960's is a long time ago compared to 40,000.

The term originally referred to a specific EXTERMELY EXPENSIVE blue dye popular in ancient Egypt, made from powdered lapis-lazuli. Until the 17th century and indigo dyes, it was the bluest blue you could make, but since it requires a rare ore that's a semi-precious stone for jewlery in its own right, it wasn't exactly easy to come by. In modern times the term just means any blue that is similarly vivid and bright, and only rarely includes any actual lapis because we have equally good and way cheaper techniques available.

DropperOfRivia - I know but which company makes best brown primer?

I’d suggest Krylon Camo dark brown if you can find it. A friend of mine plays Sylvaneth and that’s what he did. Thanks for watching!

Thanks :)

Light brown/tan and you could wash it down, OR a dark brown and drybrush. As Uncle Atom says, "well... it depends".

Uncle Atom is right about those Krylon Camo Ultra Flat primers. Very good. For the Sylvaneth, I did some with the Dark Brown and some with Sand and some with a base of Dark Brown and then sprayed from above with Sand. This worked well and gave some variation throughout. I find that the Krylon Camo Khaki is a good replacement for gray if you want that.

Agree with Testors Grey for small detail of color is not needed.

You can make a brush on primer using acrylic gesso. I don't have the old formula but I recall it being from a video off Cool Mini Or Not. Now I use straight gesso which works pretty well.

If I need to, I use Vallejo's airbrush primer as brush in and it works well enough for me. The first coat will be uneven, but that disappears when I apply my base coat on top of it

Vallejo Makes pretty decent brush on. though not many colors... Grey: smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-Grey-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B005HXHNPA Black: smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-Black-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B004BN5RUU/ White: smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-White-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B004BMZVBQ/

They actually have more than that. I know I saw a red one on my LFGS once, and a quick search on Amazon found this: smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-RAL8012-German-Brown-Paint/dp/B005D85FH2/ among other results

I did try A/B'ing Caliban Green from the can vs airbrushing on some spare sprue bits as an experiment(it's the base colour I use for my guard tanks), and either I was having a real off-day with the airbrush, or the spray isn't the same recipe as the pot; it doesn't stick quite the same. Unless, like I say, I screwed up and over-thinned it or something.

GW say that chaos black and corax white are there only primers. I have used pretty much all the GW rattle can paints on GW models and none have had problems. That is not to say that there might be some, only that i havent seen them :D

@Derphimus Maximus and Medic6666 you mean that if one primes their ultramarines with a spray can of Citadel Macragge Blue then it won't stick too well ? that sounds bad.

i have used almost all the GW rattle cans as primers and not had a problem. I can take that as luck or just a great product. As GW say that only Corax and Chaos are primers there must be a difference between primers and base colours, i just havent seen it....yet ;0)

Dave, I mean the airbrushed paint didn't stick as well as the spray can. Again, that might be because I used too much flow improver, or didn't mix it right, but the spray can worked fine.

I really suggest taking some presentation classes and/or public speaking classes if you want to do videos like what Atom is doing. Atom is more or less giving a presentation. I will assume as a IT guy (or former IT guy... not sure on his current job) he has had to stand before the suits and explain tech to them, going through each bullet point on what changes are made and how they will effect things. So his RL job or at least past job experience really helps his videos. I am sure Atom doesn't commit to memory his dialog like most presenters, but having bullet points and a timer to give you a ending point to keep you from rambling really helps. Also if you know how long each bullet point will last, you can then control the pace of your video as well as the over all length. As you can see, he has done some editing of the video even after that. So I feel that Atom's post production value is greatly undervalued just because most folks just don't realize it due to how smooth it is and how well the person doing it (either Atom or someone else) does it.To me, Atom's production value is one of the things that set him above a lot of other RU-vidrs.

Oh for sure, love his videos, been a subscriber for quite some time :D He doesn't do so much "reporting" as "talking points" which I think helps smooth it out a bit for no need of a script as there isn't a whole lot of details he *must* hit (prices, dates, counts, new rules, etc). Regardless, I dig the idea of imagery use here. Unlike work, I'm not stuck in PowerPoint here. The hard part I worry about is pacing and judging time. I can easily block out sections with images, but I don't think I'd guess the timing down close enough to make it practical. Will certainly keep practicing though :D

For timing, I seriously recommend a digital timer that is placed where you can see it, either on a wall behind your camera or near it. If you really want to splurge, you can have a laptop or second monitor set up like a teleprompter that is set up with a time display big enough where you can read it easily (or just go split screen). I suggest under your camera or next to it, so you are not breaking eye contact with the camera very much. You can find programs for teleprompters online for free, or spend a little coin, up to you. It all depends on how far down that rabbit hole you want to go. Good luck either way!

Thanks a lot! :)

TamTheThird How much? I've been living off of Wilko for a while.

The Nerd Zone £6 for 300ml last can I bought. There’s a brownish red primer they do as well that looks like it might have potential, but haven’t tried it yet.

TamTheThird Thanks!

How did the grey/white turn out?

40k started off more Grim Camp than Grim Dark.

Don't forget Apple Barrel and Americana too!

😬

darren watkin I'm not Uncle Atom, but I would recommend a dark red. But it also depends on what colour you want your shadows. To keep it simple though, a dark blood red wound be my suggestion. Also from Australia :p

Meglin1461 thanks for the tip,will do my homework. Melbourne. .

Joshua Gifford You're hydrophobic.. lol

DIAZ52 no u. Just trying to be informative here. Paint just beads up on these minis (which is what I meant by hydrophobic) if they haven't been stripped and primed or primed over the preprime. It's just exceedingly frustrating to paint on them if you keep them in the state they are right out of the box.

Joshua Gifford How do you strip the wizkids minis?

Jason Applegate if you put them in isopropyl alcohol for a couple hours and scrub them with a tooth brush it should take most of it off the rest can be removed by either soaking them longer and repeating or using an xacto or toothpick to get out the little bits of primer that are left.

Joshua Gifford thank you. I'll try it.