This video shows the factory front bump stop jounce bushings being removed and replaced with www.TrailDuty.com extended bump stops. This is done when cranking the stock torsion bars to 23.5"-24". www.traildutyi...
it's the only extended jounce bushing set that I'm aware of. if you have excessive front end dive under breaking with the Rancho 4" kit and your running the stock jounce bushings, these are longer to equal out to stock clearance on the lower control arm when you have about a 2" front crank/lift. Wheel hub center to lower lip of fender at 2" is 24", I assume your closer to 26",so you'll still experience some nose dive with these, but not much. Your looking for about 1/8" clearance between the jounce bushing and the control arm. if I had your lift, I'd think about track welding a plate to the control arm to get me back to the 1/8" clearance at rest so as to eliminate the nose dive under breaking.
Thanks for video.ln my area no one knew what a "jounce bumper" was.But they call it a "bump stop" even on ebay. It cost 40.00 for one ..the smaller one..l could not find the taller one.Just saying in case anyone else is looking for them.
Wayne Hutchinson The difference is that these are designed to be a load bearing part of the suspension under some certain situations. A bump stop is placed at the most extreme end of the suspension travel to act as a suspension limiter that will protect the vehicle from damage. They are similar in design, appearance and even location. But this jounce bushing is installed with very little space between the bushing and the A arm, meaning that with extremely little suspension motion is needed before this becomes an active part of the load bearing suspension.
I have a question. I took my H3 to a mechanic and he noticed two things when he was under my truck: 1. the ride height in the front was much lower than the rear of the truck, and 2. the front jounce bushings were being compressed by the lower control arm at rest. Is this normal for an H3. He says it isn't. But Ive read that it is. So Im a little confused. Can someone help me with this?
There should be about 1/8" space between the control arm and the jounce bushing while at rest on a flat surface. if your laying on the bushing, just turn your torsion bar adjusters (sane amount on each side) to raise the front and get the space. This is how you lift the front, so if you want to go up and level, you turn them up for the Trail duty longer bushings.
Anthony, 24" is considered max height that you can go without severely shortening the life of your front axle shafts. I set mine to 23.75" and got extended rear leaf spring shackles to lift the rear a bit. then I put 34x11 Hankook Dynapro MT tires on, it looked massive beside a stock H3. here is also a link for you to check out. schwarttzy.com/lifting-the-h3-hummer/
Larry, 2 questions ... with torsion cranked to 23.75 do you feel a diff in riding condition? rough/etc. Also, did you have to get front wheels aligned after??
Absolutely on the alignment. As you raise or lower the static ride height, the front control arms are sweeping an arc. So the knuckle does not actually move vertically, it gets closer or further from the center line of the vehicle. As that is happening, your rack and pinion tie rod ends are not pivoting in the rack end at that exact point, so the rack appears to be longer/shorter compered to where you started from. This means that your toe is no longer exactly where it began and your now cutting on the tires. The ride was fine, it does increase the observed stiffness a very little bit, it dies this because your factory set control arm is horizontal and when you crank the torsion bars, the control arm is now angled down. That changes the initial required force to move the torsion spring because of that geometry change. That said, it was not a bad change nor a big change at all.
Not at all. So how this system works from the factory is that you have the jounce bushing in place and it has approximately 1/8" clearance to the control arm. The bushing is an active part of the suspension, as you move the arm upwards it contacts the bushing and adds spring rate, essentially works as a progressive spring rate. When you crank the torsion bars to lift the front, you are no longer positioned correctly, so a longer jounce bushing is swapped in to get you back into the factory range and restore the factory ride and handling. While at its extreme compression this does act as a limiter or bump stop, in the bulk of the bushing compression it is acting as a progressive spring.
Are you running standard stock shocks? They looked like stock to me. If not lemme know. I'm looking at grabbing the bushings and cranking up my torsion bars on my 07 H3. The front drivers side is sitting at around 21 1/4" while the passenger front is 21 3/4" so its a nose-forward stance and I don't like it. Just had the shocks done on my front end. So curious if this will hurt my ride if I do the torsion lift to around 23 or so and add these bushings.
Well, for me the stock shocks wouldn't work because on certain roads the front suspension would extend to the shock hard stop at full extent, and I felt it, and I hated it. So I called Summit Racing and ordered a set of Ranch RS9000 adjustable front shocks that were 2" longer. You could go much cheaper with Rancho RS5000 gas shocks or even something from Super Lift or Explorer Pro Comp. Just call Summit and tell them that you have a 2" lift and want 2" longer shocks for the front.
Ah, alright. Dang...just had the shocks done on mine. Gotta wait to be re-employed again before I can get some new toys for my truck. Thanks though! Appreciate it.
+DraccoKnightblade I'd still do the Jounce bushings and see if it grates at you. I live in western Pa where the roads suck, you may not notice it like I did.
Ah, yeah, I'm in Southern Ontario Canada. The winters here suck. I just gotta get the shock brand that I have on it, I think they are Monroe Gold Premiums or something. Check the travel length etc...Thanks again though, Gotta check with the company who makes those bushings to see if they can ship them to good old soviet cannuckistan :P
That's crazy! I was doing my brakes last weekend and saw that part you installed disintegrated and barely holding on, on my 06 h3. And today your video popped up three days later. So if I didn't want to crank up my front end and put extended ones, do you know where I can get regular OEM ones? Besides dealer? I went on eBay and typed in jounce but nothing popped up. Is there a regular generic name for that part that I can look up?
@@LarryMusgrave hey Larry. I ordered two of the extended bump stops from the same place as you. I'm going to be putting them in this weekend. I leveled up my Hummer to 23 1/4. When I put the bump stops in, is it okay if they are touching the lower control arm after? They look kind of long and I think they might touch.
The problem with the one from GM is that it's too short if you have your torsion bars cranked up. That is exactly the reason that you would want to order these aftermarket jounce bushings rather than the short factory units.
@@masterdecker9203 wow, I just attempted to go to trail duties website and it appears that the business no longer exist. maybe since I had my Hummer H3 and created this video they have went out of business for some reason?
