I developed that intake design about 30 years ago with great results in bigger wood! Glad to see it catching on! He’s gonna be happy with both saws! Good job!
Well , they say “talk is cheep , it takes money to buy whiskey” ... looks like the added flow on the intake added some gains! I think Ol Harvey can pour himself a glass of Tennessee ol #7... tape (or in this case , the Dyno ) don’t lie ! 😁. I’ve said for YEARS .... little things make BIG differences!
Hey Joe. Thanks to this Video I've changed up my 395 porting recipe and just built 2 wicked saws for a couple of mates. Both of them are better than my own 395. These are the most helpful videos on the net bar none!
What a great resource of information, thank you for the service you provide. Extremely interesting to see some quantifiable results. Keep up these excellent videos, we appreciate the time and effort that goes into making all of this happen.
Thanks Joe good info. I thought that beast was gonna throw a chain on the dyno there for a second😆 I imagine it’s difficult positioning so many different variations of bar chain combos to fit your machine!
Awesome vid. Id like to see a run with the muffler mod only. If its 60% of the gains for a fraction of the cost, its hard to justify the port work. Of course y'all need to eat too and all 😅
Nice work and really appreciate you sharing all of that. Of recent I have been CNC milling the combustion chambers and experimenting with the differences. With out a Dyno it all becomes a little cloudy and opinion based. But as best I can tell compression ratios around 9.1-9.5:1 with a squish band of 40% area seems to be giving me a very sweet running saw that revs freely. Not a big fan of over compressed saws. I've gone as far as having them run flat on top. Stock saws are about the 9-9.5 range as well with the squish set up properly. Of late I have also been experimenting with transfer angles. For some time I have been angling the auxiliary port slightly up and been claiming a boost in torque. Very nice to see some confirmation on that. I have been toying with the idea of building a Dyno for sometime for exactly the reason you demonstrate here. No bullshit no arguments just hard data. Love it. Subscribed and once again really appreciate you sharing like that. Nice work on the ports too!
Joe I’ve really enjoyed these videos thanks for doing them. not sure if you are doing this already but running each saw 3 times and averaging the numbers is probably a good idea just in case there is any variations in the run. Heard you are getting some iron horse saws coming too!
Thank you. All the saws get 5-8 pulls and I pick the 3 most consistent time/power runs and pick the one. So I try to avg them the best I can. I will have to try using the avg function on multiple saws sometime. Only ever used it on single saws. Bit if I can do multiple on the same graph then that makes it simple.
@@dynojoemods2764 i just done a 395 no machine work i dont own a lathe..base gasket delete and mild port and transfer work blew my mind at how well it turned out....thanks for sharing this info!
Joe, I noticed you are recording 10 - 15% more hp on the larger Husqvarna saws in stock condition than the manufacturer publishes. Any guess as to why (different fuel and/or atmospheric conditions)? Have you had your dino calibrated recently? You are a great resource for us saw junkies, keep it up!!!
Thank you. I would guess it is a little bit of a lot of things. Not knowing how many data samples husqvarna uses. Or the test procedure it very hard to duplicate. Dyno is best used for a before/after or simple changes. The difference is what matters most. I check calibration often just to be sure. So I can use my old runs to compare.
I just built a ported one. It pulls a 42” bar like a freaking freight train. Heavy as a cinder block, but man is it a fantastic stumping saw! DEFINITELY get it ported!
Joe I’ve noticed that your set up on the Dyno. The chain breaks over the front of the bar just prior to the chain reaching the dyno. I think that could be eating some HP as the friction there has to be severe! Not knocking you at all just an observation!! Love the videos. I would love to see you port and tune a 460 Rancher. I bought one brand new and I’m disappointed in the power it has!! Thanks Andy
Yeh, the one is an ugly setup. But it dosent pull that bad. I have tested the same saw a few different ways. The bottom of the bar is tight and it is only grabbing with a few links in the bottom half of the dyno sprocket. The drive sprocket it actually trying to toss the chain off the top of the bar. I run the chain a bit on the loose side too. I will be porting the 450r the little brother saw
@@dynojoemods2764 Hey Joe Yeah I noticed on my 460 that it has what looks like bolt on transfer ports. I don’t know if that good or bad but at least it may give access to do the work needed in those areas ? I’ll stay tuned for the 450 build.
Would love to see a stock ms200t vs a fully built ms200t on the dyno. My ms200t has had pretty much everything done from intake and exhaust polishing/porting, timing advanced and cylinder decked etc. Never ran it as a stock saw and always wondered how much more power it made. Work was done here in Canada by a reputable shop so would probably be about an average in performance increase. Thanks again your channel rocks and is going to grow huge as saw guys are going to love the content
great channel i really enoy watching your content. one thing i would like to see a video on is a muffler comparison on one saw, so we can see how the saw reacts to doing different things to the muffler. like stock vs what you do to a muff vs bark box vs opening up the muff as much as humanly possible, maybe run a saw without a muff, vs putting a pipe on the saw like dirt bikes have with the expansion chambers. i think that would be awesome to see the results of that in a video.
In your opinion in the bigger 90cc saws is more or less blow down better. I'm running around 18 to 20 degrees with a 99 degree exhaust roof with about 165 degrees of intake duration. Also did the finger port design on my intake with a small boost port on piston.
@@dynojoemods2764 this is SOO important. the curve. usable range. Your on your game. coming from a drag race background, Peak power isnt as important as the curve. engine still needs a wide band and to be able to recover on rpm. love your channel
Hey great channel......seeing dyno results like this can really help me decide if the high cost of saw work is worth it for all my saws. Thanks and God bless
When we getting the dolly 73/79 stock and ported on the dyno 😁. so what is giving the little boost transfer angle or intake I guess a combination? ...interesting stuff though👌👍
Would you be able to speak to your dyno setup? Such as what you're using for a load cell and the data box you're using? It's always great to see an engine builder with a dyno.
Here is a short video telling all about the dyno build. If you have any other questions let me know. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z3i6J0t-ax8.html
@@dynojoemods2764 Thank you! We're in a similar situation with our 9" Land & Sea dyno. The data boxes are failing and we're looking to update a bit. Did you stick with land and sea components when your torque arm started having issues or did you change to something like performance trends or yourdyno and get a different load cell?
@@BarskiX Welcome Hmwfllc@gmail.com e mail me if you need more info I tried a 2nd tq arm but it did not last long. I switched to performance trends complete setup. S beam load cell and all. Has been great for over 1200 pulls. I have a 2nd brake I want to set up too, and will be using them again too. Worth looking into for sure.
Great channel,when you say up are you referring to the top of transfer angled more towards the squish band? rather then the other cylinder which I'm guessing would be flatter.Interesting concept whats going on in there working with the intake shape.Have you had a 038magnum on the dyno yet.Keep up the excellent content.
Thanks for another interesting video. The workmanship on your cylinders is exquisite man, really something to aspire towards as an amateur porter 👍🏻 I’m about to start grinding on an MS382 this weekend and am going to give that heart/tonsil shaping on the intake a go. Just out of interest do you run these in and allow the rings to seat before you dyno them?
Thank you. I think the 382 may have that shape intake to start. Just watch the ring locating pins. I do a warm up, couple of light pulls then the full pulls. They will still break in some with use.
I’m really enjoying your videos just actually found u ! Iron horse and you are an encyclopedia of knowledge , thank you . I’m redoing saws for local tree guys . I’m having a problem in my own head on how to come up with timing numbers. And what each thing u do does to affect each reaction to saw . Any thoughts . Also my 395 I’m doing now has numbers at ex 110, int74, 128 on trans. Sqish is .034, , my thought is it would have low end but be a turd in upper range , your thought . And what would u do for numbers on that 395? Thank you and keep up the Awsome videos , btw is that a prony brake u use ? Can u do video on your dyno ?
Nice video, thanks for sharing. What size would you say is a good size to go for when adding another hole to the muffler (as in percentage of the exhaust port size....)
I find your vids really interesting. I’m curious why your stock numbers are often a good bit higher than the factory says. Are they really under rated or is it something to do with your setup?
Thank you Mostly to do with the setup. Some are closers than others at times. Big thing with the dyno is to show change, not the absolute number. Like the 395's in this video. The 28-30% increase is much more important than the 10.x hp made. But they are both fun to look at.
Depending on bar length and chain setup it can. Have to watch chain tension the bigger sprockets are larger than the tail makes it easier to toss a chain.
@@kevinz763 I don't like to build aftermarket cylinders. I'm not opposed to a piston swap in a used saw. Most of the saws I do are new 95% of the time.
Hey Joe!! Few questions I you don't mind? Husky 380/480's? Worth to modify and keep cutting with them or upgrade to a newer saw? Same question to an old Jonsered 910e?
I don't do the older saws for customers.Too many hard to find parts/pieces once you take them apart. Always seems like they need some mount or gasket that needs to be tracked down to get the saw back running. Once ported the saws generally run harder, with more pressures. Seals and gaskets can become an issue on old saws too.
Hey Joe, Just ordered a G395xp to experiment with......based on these cylinders you ported in video, what would be good numbers to shoot for on intake exh and transfers? if you don't want to share exact numbers it ok, but if you can get me close would appreciate. thanks!
I guess now you’ll have to retest only doing the “Mickey mouse” intake mod. Just to see if the gain was from the upper transfer work or from the intake…
I wouldn't say double the fuel. More than stock? I'm sure they do. Some models are harder on fuel than others. Most of the time the increased speed/production off sets the fuel usage.
@@lukepodolski8818 Might have to start doing some now and then. That is what is difficult. Chain sharpness and wood type adds variables back into the equation
@@pm270100 I don't have any parts, you will have to find a dealer local to you, or online. That was just the price range I remember echo piston and cylinder costing.
